XBOX 360 Power Supply, last connections?

I'm using an XBOX 360 power supply, the variant with 302 watts and it works well with the current hookup. However, there are 2 unused wires which I don't know the purpose. Anyone knows?

So there are a total of 10 wires:

3 Black - Ground
3 Yellow - +12v
2 Red/Blue - +5/Enable
1 Yellow, 1 Black very fine thickness wires, purpose unknown.

When enabled, there is again +12V between these two but I'm not sure it's intended to be load carrying. Un-enabled, there is approx 10ohms between the thin yellow and the three thicker yellow wires. I thought it might be some sort of temperature sense, but haven't found anything online covering it. The one instructable which mentions these two just recommends merging them with the other yellow/blacks respectively.

If you know, pls let me know,

Thanks!

This is just a guess, but could they be standby power? So that there is a low current 12V supply powering an IR/bluetooth/whatever xboxes use receiver, which then has simple circuitry to enable the main PSU? You could test this by seeing if the thin wires are powered when the rest is not.

The thin yellow and black wires are remote sense (voltage sense) wires. The idea is you connect them to the thick yellow and black wires respectively at the load end, and the PSU adjusts for voltage drop over the cable.

The red wire is +5V standby, and the blue is power on/enable.

Interesting. So is it fine to just tie it in with the power leads? Seems strange that the psu would deliver current with those connections open then. I suppose if a pot were placed in that sensing circuit the voltage output might be adjustable within reasonable bounds.

I to would like to modify my Xbox power supply due to the fact that I have 3 of them sitting around. Does anyone have any good or use full information on how well they work, amps, color codes, pin outs, and what you need to do to hook them up etc. Thanks

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I finally got around to hooking up my Xbox 360 power supply. I have the largest version which is 203watts. The blue wire is power sense which I connected to a switch along with the red 5v to take the power supply off of standby. The yellow wire reads at about 12.3 v @ 16.5 amps and the 5v @1 amp which works well with my Printrbot. I like that it is a lot more compacted then the at power supply. The power supply that comes with the printrbot is about 180w. The amount of amps required is about 15 so I'm in good shape

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Hi There,

I'm working on wiring an OG X-box 360 PSU for use with my printrbot GO and am not 100% sure what to do with the +5VSB and Power Enable leads. One article I found said you could just twist these together or wire them with a switch for standby, which sounds like what you did. But when you say the 5V supplies 1A, what do you mean? Does it supply a low current when on standby? If so, what is it powering? You'll have to forgive my noob questions, I'm electrically challenged one might say.

_john

ei8htohms.tinyparts.net

I have a complete write up on it. Its on my WordPress blog and the link is below as my signature. Check it out. I used one for my printrbot Nintendo edition build.

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Yes I saw that, but I still can't make sense of

Quote
REPRAP SQUAD
The yellow wire reads at about 12.3 v @ 16.5 amps and the 5v @1 amp which works well with my Printrbot.

in combination with (from the write-up about the X-box PSU):

"4. Strip a small amount of the red and blue wires and connect them to each other (optionally solder). This will prevent the power supply from staying in stand-by mode after you give it power."

This would seem to indicate that these were not used (just connected to each other to insure power flow), and one of these IS the 5V lead, no?

Sporry if I'm being dense, I'm just not able to follow how the voltage or the amperage on the alternative (5V) lead is even relevant if it's not being used.

Thanks!

In order to take the power supply off of standby you must connect the blue ( power standby) and the red 5v line. I used a switch on this line. Its just like a lot of computer power supplies, except there power standby is usually green I believe. So in order to take the power supply off of standby connect the 5v wire to the power sense or power standby. Power sense and power standby are the same blue wire. Some people call it by different names. I have some LED's also connected to the 5v line with no issues. I personally will use a wall wart to power my logic circuit boards. Its just a personal preference. If you have any other questions feel free to ask I am always available to help a fellow builder.

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Gotcha, thanks!

Since the GO is all about portability, I'm hoping to use the X-box PSU to power the whole shebang (including heated bed). The laptop-esque PSU (must put out 6 A?) it came with is actually sufficient (barely one imagines) to run the bot with the heated bed even although I've only risked PLA temps thus far (190 and 60, and the transformer gets pretty warn even then). Fingers crossed that203 Watts will be sufficient for ABS.

Thanks again for your help!

It should be Ok. What size is your print bed? I've used it on an 8"x8" heated bed. I guess if you had to and had the room you could use two. I think you'll be in good shape. I've used computer power supplies with about 25amps on the 12v line and they couldn't hack the power needed but the Xbox psu worked great and heated everything up quicker.

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Yes, 8 x 8 and so far so good. Been printing ABS at 230° (extruder) and 100° (bed) with no trouble. Thanks again!

Ya no prob, I think this Xbox power supply doesn't get enouph credit and coverage. It has some of the best circuit protection and is reliable. It also heats everything up fast and it also is slim and portable. I always grab them when I run into a used one at a garage sale or thrift store because they are built like tanks. I'm glad its working out great for you.

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Oh ya I was going to ask you if you used the 5volt line to power your logic circuits or did you use a wall wart or something else.

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That's what I was confused about in your post. I don't really know how you'd use two power supplies with the printrboard. I'm just powering the whole thing with the 12 V lines.

I've written up a little about how I handled it (with your help!) here:

http://ei8htohms.tinyparts.net/?p=546

Good job and nice write up. I'm using a RAMPS modified setup with SSR relays. Its a different setup. Nice move with using the female plug. I'm actually in the middle of changing over mine as I just got a female plug a week or so ago. For posting a link to the information I appreciate that. I also spent some time updating the Xbox 360 off to clarify any misinterpreted information. Keep up the good work bro if you ever need anything I'm always available.

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Just a little heads up I'm on the printrbot forums as well.

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Yeah... see? Now you're talking totally over my head again.

Thanks for the kind comments. I've been meaning to add more the build thread on the printrbottalk forum too, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I've still got an X-box motherboard with a female power supply connector on it I'd be happy to send to you if you can use it. Just let me know where to send it.

Sure I could use it. I'm just about to call it a night so I'll send you the address in the morning. Thanks a lot I appreciate it.

right im going the same direction as using the female connector im powering my ramps with two 12v lines one too the11a and the other tothe 5a side, and there iss 3 x12v and 3 gnd do i splice 1 of the 12v to the other leaving me with 2 12v and same with the gnd or do you have to terminate the extra 12v and gnd?

I have xbox power supply 203W, 240V . Arduino+ramps 1.4, MK2b heated.
All yellow wires connected together (thick and thin one), same blacks, switch on red 5V and blue. Additionally I connected small 10W, 12V halogen bulb to 5V red and one black wires. (as described for ATX power supply)
Everything work great as long as this bulb is connected. If not it works till first MOSFET switch off, when PID starts working after heating bed to desired temperature. I could see short blink on Xbox LED from green to orange and green again and it resets Arduino.

Any idea ?
I replaced MOSFET to IRLB3034PbF but with STB55NF06 I had the same issue.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2017 07:47AM by rafalvonkrakow.

I cut thin black cable and it solved problem. Definitively voltage is not as stable like previously. between 12,2 to 11,6 at maximum load. Previously 11.9 with heating bed and without.
Thin black and yellow is kind of voltage regulation. I know, it's not answer "why?" but enough for this moment.
Maybe sth with reverse current. Maybe it would be better to use this regulation. Doesn't matter.