New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China

Thanks for the info, unfortunate as it is. I think I'm going to side step the whole thing and control my bed with an SSD for faster heat up anyway.

I have a new really weird problem though...without having made any config changes, the Y axis stopped homing. I can still control all of the motion just fine using controls, but a G28 (which was working fine yesterday) now only homes the X and Z motors. This on a kossel, so I'm using the linear_delta arm solution, and delta homing is set to true.


NEVERMIND: My endstop had a loose connection...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2015 03:25PM by Glacian.

Quote
o_lampe
@Glacian
When you´ve killed the heatbed MOSFET, you´re screwed...those SMD MOSFETs are hard to replace without special soldering-equipment....
Now, that you´ve done the V-regulator mod, MakerBase sure won´t replace the board, you´ve lost warranty....
-Olaf

Anyone that's burned out their SMD heatbed MOSFET and can't handle an SMD replacement can look at using an SSD or manually wiring a MOSFET off the board. I've even got a tiny PCB with a high current 25V MOSFET & 14awg stranded wire solder holes I've made for other uses that can be used as cheap SSD's in this case.

So they aren't totally screwed, just have to hack things a little bit more.

maybe you can replace the fuse F1,it is SCHURTER 3413.0332.22

I have used this board also and didn't get any this type of problem. Your problem is mainly due to if you have connected the pin to wrong ground. The pin is at the other side of the pin which is connected to thermistor to 4.7K resistor and ADC input.
Actually RepRapPro do not use 4.7K resitance, but it uses the 1K resistor.

Quote
RobbDicks
I have used this board also and didn't get any this type of problem. Your problem is mainly due to if you have connected the pin to wrong ground. The pin is at the other side of the pin which is connected to thermistor to 4.7K resistor and ADC input.
Actually RepRapPro do not use 4.7K resitance, but it uses the 1K resistor.

Picture, or it didn´t happen

We are discussing this problem for 6 pages now, including tips and comments from flyway97 ( one of the MakerBase guys ).
MakerBase has stopped production and started the V1.1 because of this issue and you want to tell us, it´s just the wrong ground pin?

-Olaf

I recently upgraded my Folger Kossel 2020 delta printer from RAMPS to a Smoothieboard compatible Makerbase MKS SBASE 1.1. The board works great after a slow start due to my learning curve with it. Here’s my problem: after getting basic functionality going, I decided to add an LCD. The one I have is a standard REPRAP Discount GLCD. The LCD had functioned fine during initial setup of the SBASE board. When I attached it to the completed printer, I saw no display (connector orientation was correct, based on my previous testing). I determined (based on forum posts I’d read) that the LCD required more power than the printer board could give. I rigged up a 12V to 5V RC UBEC that I had on-hand to feed the display its own power. When I attached it and powered on the printer: Poof. Smoke. Argh. I quickly cut power and investigated.

The good news is that the printer board’s most important functions still work. I can connect to it via USB and control it in Printerface via USB serial. I can still print with it fine.

The impact of my mistake is that the LCD is not responsive in any way. Also, the Smoothieware Web interface now only partially works. Some interface controls work, while others seem to do nothing. All web capabilities were functional before the damage. I attached a photo of the web interface showing which functionality works/does not work. Telnet still works without issue.

I determined that my “5V” UBEC was actually feeding about 5.5 volts to the LCD. This voltage was apparently back fed to the SBASE board, which is where the smoke originated. Yes, I was wrong to attach the UBEC without first testing its output. Haste makes waste.

Examining the MKS SBASE board, I saw that two components on it showed visible damage. Both are apparently the same chip and serve similar functions (based on their labels on the board). One the board, the burned components are labeled U11 and U14. Each of them is in a group of three of the same component type (labeled U11, U12, U13 and U14, U15, U16 respectively). They are SMD devices, with six legs, and a very faint “TAR” printed on the chip package. (photos attached).

I found the damaged components on the Makerbase provided schematics (https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-SBASE). They are referenced the same as the printing on the board itself. Unfortunately, I am unable to determine exactly what they are with just the schematic (they appear to be related to the external LCD). Some Googling leads me to believe that they are possibly “single-bit dual-supply bus transceivers.” If that’s what they are, my searching indicates that they may be Texas Instruments SN74LVC1T45 devices in either a DCK or DRL package (http://www.ti.com/product/SN74LVC1T45/datasheet/pin_configuration_and_functions).

So, the good news is that my MKS SBASE still mostly works. However, I’d really like to get all functionality (web and LCD) back again.

Can anyone here confirm that the damaged components are what I think they are? Also, do you think that replacing just the two damaged items will get me going? I am up for doing the SMD soldering and buying the parts (available on Mouser and DigiKey), but I don’t’ want to bother unless there’s a decent chance for success.

I appreciate anyone’s assistance or advice. I am not an electrical engineer or an electronics technician. I am a self-trained enthusiast that wants to get the job done right. I am posting this on the RepRap forums and the Google Smoothieware support groups in the hope of getting some expert advice.

Thanks in advance- Pat

Those chips are level shifters. Engineering overkill, since they are fixed to shift only in one direction.
But anyway, the chip you found is "pin-compatible". Now find the right package and have fun soldering

The TI chip can stand upto 6.5V, your UBEC must've been way off or wired the wrong way?
-Olaf

Thanks, Olaf. Good to know that I am on the right track. Not sure about the voltage. Maybe I did have something else wrong beyond the voltage. Won't go down that road again, anyway.

Your UBEC might behave better, when you add a small load to the output. I guess the LCD doesn't draw enough current to stabilize the UBEC-output.
-Olaf

Got mine in today. We will see in a week or two how it works. Mine is labeled as v1.2, what are the changes that were made for this revision?

Also, I am new to this stuff, what is the difference between the two pin locations in the attached image? Are they duplicates for different connector styles or do they do different things?

The pinheaders get right at the signals going to the stepper drivers. You can use them to either use external stepper drivers for giant motors, or use them to chain two drivers together (like to operate two Z motors from one signal).

Quote
josh.pierce
Got mine in today. We will see in a week or two how it works. Mine is labeled as v1.2, what are the changes that were made for this revision?

Also, I am new to this stuff, what is the difference between the two pin locations in the attached image? Are they duplicates for different connector styles or do they do different things?

Are you sure, you have the Sbase v1.2? Or is it the mks base V1.2?
Can you show a picture of your controller?

The SBase v1.1 had just been released and I haven't seen any major complaints yet ( beside the driver/heatsink discussion ). Why would they build a V1.2 without reason?
-Olaf

It is the Sbase v1.2. See attached.

Thanks CapnBry. That makes sense.

My steppers came with dupont style connectors and the board has molex style. Is there any harm in using them like this or should I change my steppers over to molex style.

Quote
josh.pierce
It is the Sbase v1.2. See attached.

I'm confused

flyway97, can you provide any information about V1.2?

josh, I guess you bought your board from aliexpress/Maker Base?
-Olaf

sure did

Quote
josh.pierce

My steppers came with dupont style connectors and the board has molex style. Is there any harm in using them like this or should I change my steppers over to molex style.

I have a hack for that.
pull the plastic off the board that surrounds the pins, this gives you the correct length pins for the dupont connectors. then just plugged straight into the board.

I did this because didn't want to change the pins in my steppers as all other solutions use dupont connectors, so i didn't wan to have to change them back if i want to swap it out with something else in the future or replace a stepper etc.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2015 01:32PM by innkeeper.

The advantage of Molex connectors is that they are locking. Dupont connectors may disconnect themselves if you don't tie the cables down, and this if this happens when power is applied then it may blow the stepper driver.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Im looking for a new controller. How is the MKS SBASE v1.1, compared to the smoothieboard?

Just got mine today, it's V1.2 on the label.
The only thing I can find differ from V1.1 picture is that V1.2 don't have LG1(whatever it is).
V1.2 board
[i.imgur.com]

LG1 on V1.1
[i.imgur.com]

I can't believe they made a new board only to skip a simple induction? If it was useless, they could replace it with an R0 resistor or leave it unpopulated...
There must have been a more serious problem.

Our friend flyway97 had been silent for a while...
-Olaf

v1.1 and v1.2 is very small different, we delete LG1 because it is easy be burn when accident. when we change pcb,will change version. So we change it to v1.2.

Quote
flyway97
v1.1 and v1.2 is very small different, we delete LG1 because it is easy be burn when accident. when we change pcb,will change version. So we change it to v1.2.

Thanks for the information.
What would people do with v1.1 boards? Unsolder LG1 and leave it open or solder a bridge instead?
-Olaf

V1.1 no need do anything, it is ok.


LG1 is a magnetic bead. The base function of LG1 is connecting AGND (motor) and DGND (CPU), we add it to reduce disturbing from motor to CPU.

In normal voltage between AGND and DGND is 0, but short circuit or other accident maybe cause LG1 over-current( max current is 2A) and burn.

We delete it because we found LG1 is not very useful. But reserve it is no harmful.


Tips for v1.1:

After accident V1.1 will burn LG1 and maybe some other electronic components,you can direct connect the two pads of LG1(short circuit it), and then test the function. If is ok, the board can be used as normal. If not ok, the board need for further repair.

Hi, anyone knows if it is possible to connect a reprapdiscound smartcontroller 2004lcd to the Sbaseboard.
I can't get it working, all cable's and connections are ok.
Thanx

Quote
wrangler
Hi, anyone knows if it is possible to connect a reprapdiscound smartcontroller 2004lcd to the Sbaseboard.
I can't get it working, all cable's and connections are ok.
Thanx

It won't run without modification, because it needs 5V.
There are other versions that run on 3.3V.
-Olaf

Hi o_lampe,

I don't think thats the problem bocause it has 5v and seems to work but no text in the display just light, see picture in my former post.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2015 11:56AM by wrangler.

Hello everybody, this is my first post in this forum!

I also received my SBASE V1.2 together with TFT28 V1.2 but I'm having problems with it.
I cant seem to update the firmware on either device.

The firmware that I have is for V1.1 so maybe that is the problem.
I got it from :
[github.com]
The firmware on the TFT is 1.0.3. and I dont know the version on the SBASE.

I saved the firmware.bin and the config.txt to the sd card, attached it to the
SBASE and plugged in USB, but that caused the sd card drive to appear in PC.
I also tried to reset the board but the firmware.bin is not renamed

Also I saved the mkstft28.bin, mks_config.txt and mks_pic folder to another SD
inserted it to TFT28 and rebooted it but also nothing happens.

Some commands sent from PC work - I can move step motors, but some things
like FAN control wont work.

I noticed also BOOT header (no jumper attatched) on SBASE PCB and a mini switch with 4 swittches
but I did not dare to touch these.

Could you please tell me what I'm doing wrong?

With best regards,
Marek

Board Revision isn't the problem here, all board use the same firmware(even official Smoothieware work fine)
fan control you need to enable it in config first.
[smoothieware.org]

Not sure why it won't flash the new firmware though.

Quote
t991731
Hello everybody, this is my first post in this forum!

I also received my SBASE V1.2 together with TFT28 V1.2 but I'm having problems with it.
I cant seem to update the firmware on either device.

The firmware that I have is for V1.1 so maybe that is the problem.
I got it from :
[github.com]
The firmware on the TFT is 1.0.3. and I dont know the version on the SBASE.

I saved the firmware.bin and the config.txt to the sd card, attached it to the
SBASE and plugged in USB, but that caused the sd card drive to appear in PC.
I also tried to reset the board but the firmware.bin is not renamed

Also I saved the mkstft28.bin, mks_config.txt and mks_pic folder to another SD
inserted it to TFT28 and rebooted it but also nothing happens.

Some commands sent from PC work - I can move step motors, but some things
like FAN control wont work.

I noticed also BOOT header (no jumper attatched) on SBASE PCB and a mini switch with 4 swittches
but I did not dare to touch these.

Could you please tell me what I'm doing wrong?

With best regards,
Marek

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2015 11:05AM by PartTimeRonin.

Is the firmware.bin in the root directory and not in a subdirectory? Also check the file extension. If the firmware has been upload the file should change from firmware.bin to firware.cur if I recall.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2015 11:09AM by Viper97.

Yes, firmware is in the root.