Calling all Rumba experts

I am in the process of installing Marlin on a Creatbot DX. It is an Ultimaker clone that uses a Rumba derived controller.



I have most everything working but need to confirm a few things:

1) FIXED (to be tested) - Used the normal pins 15 and 14. The hot end uses K-Type thermistors connected to an AD597 amplifier. I set the the temperature sensor type to -1 and used the standard analog pin 15. From what I am given to understand, this should not work but I seem to get the correct temperature. When I tried to use pin A10, the system reports a max temp error and kills the printer. Is this the correct setup?

2) ]FIXED - bad 12V rail. I traced the fan MOSFETs on the circuit board to pins 16 and 17 of the 2560 which corresponds to PWM pins 8 and 7 on the Rumba. Unfortunately they do not respond to M106 nor do they turn un when I heat up the hot end. Any ideas?

3) The physical power button is connected to header labelled switch on the controller. It does turn on the printer but will not shut off. Is this a safety mechanism for cooling down the heads?

4) The DX uses a USB key instead of an SD card but Marlin can't see it. The board it is connected has a a CH376S USB control / serial bridge. The output seems to go to a serial header on the mother board.





6) Finally, the DX uses a Dwin touch panel connected via serial. It's the same one used in the Wanhao Duplicator. What do I need to add to my pin's config to enable?

Thank you!

Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2018 07:56PM by Modmike.

Thermistor and fan issue resolved.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2018 08:12PM by Modmike.

We just purchased their D600 Pro model and while everything works great and seems well built overall, the printer just completely freezes up during a print when using the chamber heater. They had us relocate a 5v pin from the sdcard wiring harness, over to a USB one, but made no difference.

We thought it was a heating issue, but setting the chamber even to a very tolerable temp results in a freeze. The board is still relaying temp status communications to the usb terminal, though and the steppers just seem to stop. Issuing a Pause command then resume, the printer keeps on printing for awhile but eventually stops responding to it.

Anyways, This board looks just like it and I was wondering about getting Marlin on it to possibly try and figure out the issue and/or fix it.

I am pretty far along on the Marlin port but am stuck at the power switch, display, and USB port. The screen might be a while.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/13/2018 06:07PM by Modmike.

I did some more digging and discovered that what was happening is the printer was not sending back an "ok" response from time to time, and the touchscreen/octoprint/computer would simply stop. Doing a fake acknowledgement in octoprint would immediately resume the print. There was some serial buffer patches in a semi-recent version of octoprint so I upgraded my outdated version. I also unplugged all their usb wiring and plugged a brand new shielded cable directly into the motherboards usb port. I was able to complete a 12 hour print with the heater cranked to the max with no issues.

I am trying to work them for the source code because I think altering some of the buffering and baud settings in the build might help to compensate for the usb interference. I believe the issue is that the heater is mounted next to the wiring that runs to the touch screen and pseudo usb port connected to the board sd card slot, and it's creating some line noise and corrupting communications. It seems like a silly place to mount the heater without shielded cabling and is asking for problems.

I'll let you know what I manage to get from them, if anything. Otherwise I'd be willing to help try and figure out remaining issues, although mine has a color touchscreen, I'm not sure what's on yours. Do you have a github project page setup?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2018 01:59PM by darkstar1.

I have a touch screen as well. I am running Marlin 2.0.x on it now but have 3 issues, the most pressing of which is the power button. When running the OEM firmware pushing the button brings Marlin pin 41 high and the printer turns on. It’s low when off. Standard Rumba uses pin 45 for PS_ON. Creatbot uses pin 40 and can be shut down via M41 when configured as such.

My Github is not up to date but I can send you the pins_creatbot file and coding i have so far. Frankly all you need to do is chooses a Rumba pins file and the only thing you need to change is the PS_ON pin from 45 to 40.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2018 03:35PM by Modmike.

If you want a more functional LCD check this out:

[andrivet.github.io]

I loaded it on my LCD no problem but I need to recompile it for 250000 baud for it to possibly run with the OEM firmware. It's directly wired to Serial port 3 but I have not looked at bringing it over yet because I am trying to fix the power button issue.

Power button issue resolved:

In configuration.h:

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

In pins_file:

#define PS_ON_PIN 40
#define KILL_PIN 41

do not /#define CASE_LIGHT_PIN 40 as in Rumba example. I just commented it out.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2018 04:13PM by Modmike.

Awesome, thanks. I have a couple other things to figure out on this model in addition to the work you've done. Namely the chamber temp sensor, and the heater control. I'll have to have a look at the board and trace which SSR is connected to the chamber heating unit. Other than that, I think what you've done is excellent and mostly complete for this model even.

I have those all mapped as well. How many heads do you have? Also the SSR in mine is for power NOT the heat bed as I had originally suspected.

Can you send me a pic of your board? If there is a pm function here shoot me your email address and I will send the relevant files tomorrow morning.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2018 10:09PM by Modmike.

Mine actually has 5 SSR's and 2 350 watt meanwell power supplies. No idea what is connected to what. The heater draws a solid 17 amps when it kicks on to maintain temps though, then drops to about 14. We had an electrician install 2 dedicated 20amp lines for the machines 2 plugs. I'll send a pic of the board in a bit. The machine weighs like 400lbs so it's difficult to get underneath. It takes 2-3 guys to lay this thing on it's side which I've managed to avoid so far.

EDIT: 2 print heads

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2018 11:13PM by darkstar1.

Here are some pics of the board. Sorry for the bad angles, it's very hard to get a camera under there.

[imgur.com]

What a beast!!!! Basically same motherboard as me so pins will work. I’m not seeing all the SSRs you mentioned. Is there a way you can slide a phone under there to take pics? I wouldn’t go crazy, you can just try my file but I would rather have a really good picture before you do.

Cheers!

@darkstar1 Please find all the files you need for Marlin 2.0.x to get your createbot converted. The only things that don't work for me on my DX are the LCD and the USB drive. I don't really care about either but will probably swap out the LCD fo the Lulzbot one at $25.00 when it's released. It looks like a direct replacement and will at least be supported. As for the USB drive, I found a library but am not a programmer so I'm pretty much gone as far as I could.

You would need to validate the setup for your BL Touch and chamber heater. I don't have so could not test. I will submit a PR for it should be part of Marlin proper next week. You should create a separate pin's file and config for the 600 and submit a PR to the Marlin GitHub when validated.

Let me know if you need any help.

Thanks, I will definitely take a look probably this coming weekend. I'm still trying to convince them they need to abide by the GPL and give me a copy of the source code. I have an aliexpress dispute opened to apply pressure. We'll see how that pans out.

My vendor also applied pressure but to no avail. They are holding tight.

The point is mostly moot if we can get screen and USB to work. I have libraries for both, are you a programmer?

I'm a decent programmer but my skill set in those areas aren't good enough without digging in to it. They'll either end up sharing the source or paying monetarily, it's up to them really. The dispute ends in about a day, I'll be looking at this based on what happens with that and post an update here.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/18/2018 02:24PM by darkstar1.

My system is also using some external stepper drivers that I'm not sure about. X/Y/Z seem to have dummy stepper drivers in the sockets, but there are 3 large stepper driver boards for the motors under the board. See the pictures here: [imgur.com]

Actually those are just external drivers. I imagine standard stepsticks could not take the load and heat. The dummies you are referring to actually shunting control to the external drivers.

Ok, that's what I suspected. I've never used external drivers quite like that before. Without their config I have to figure out what boards they are, and what microstepping mode the dip switches are set to. That should be fairly simple though. They look like many of the toshiba driven cnc boards on aliexpress, nearly identical. It's a shame they decided to run these external usb/sd card frankenstein wires right next to the power wires for the heater with no shielding, otherwise the gear they used in the machine is really top notch I have to say. I'll probably end up having to re-route that wiring to the other side of the machine.

I was/am having the same problem with the D600 pro. Did you ever end up getting the source code? I currently am wanting up the chamber temperature from 70c to 90c as the actual in chamber temperature is closer to 60c.

Hi,

Did you ever succeed? We have an DX02 and would really like to add bltouch to it.

//Tomas

I resolved all of my issues with the D600 pro and it's turned out to be a great machine. Unfortunately to get it there I had to rip out their electronics completely and install a Duet Wifi board. To fix the lockups from the heater, relocate the heater to the left side of the machine. There are flush mounts on that side of the machine for the heater unit and it screws in just like on the right side.

Hi darkstar1,

How did you connect and configure thermistors to Duet WiFi board? As I understand, originally hotends' thermistors are connected via this connector

.

Now I am trying to replace original CreatBot DE board to Duet as well.

Thank you.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2021 07:11AM by ytkachov.