Laser Cutting Head
Posted by aka47
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head February 17, 2010 05:16PM |
... until now there is no blog - my laserworks were a sort of specialized optimizations and workarounds with comercial systems and mostly covered by NDAs 
The actual project with the salvaged pumping diodes is free as in OS, so i'll try to blog the complete development and publish in the wiki in english and with the GRRF and/or in the german forum in plain german ...
But this wouldn't be a very fast process
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
The actual project with the salvaged pumping diodes is free as in OS, so i'll try to blog the complete development and publish in the wiki in english and with the GRRF and/or in the german forum in plain german ...
But this wouldn't be a very fast process
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head February 17, 2010 10:10PM |
The actual project with the salvaged pumping diodes is free as in OS, so i'll try to blog the complete development and publish in the wiki in english and with the GRRF and/or in the german forum in plain german ...
But this wouldn't be a very fast process
If it is much faster to publish on the wiki in german, I volunteer to maintain the german->english translation.
And if you prefer to publish on the wiki in english, I volunteer someone else to maintain the english->german translation. ... casainho, how is your german?
-Sebastien, RepRap.org library gnome.
Remember, you're all RepRap developers (once you've joined the super-secret developer mailing list), and the wiki, RepRap.org, [reprap.org] is for everyone and everything!
But this wouldn't be a very fast process
If it is much faster to publish on the wiki in german, I volunteer to maintain the german->english translation.
And if you prefer to publish on the wiki in english, I volunteer someone else to maintain the english->german translation. ... casainho, how is your german?
-Sebastien, RepRap.org library gnome.
Remember, you're all RepRap developers (once you've joined the super-secret developer mailing list), and the wiki, RepRap.org, [reprap.org] is for everyone and everything!
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head February 18, 2010 03:14AM |
Hi Sebastien,
... OK, then i'll start the documentation first in german and with time translate/rewrite in english ...
I'm learning a lot simply by reading and writing here, but i think for plain english i need some more direct interaction
But anyway - my timing problem is lack of time at home, so the development runs only at night (where i can't work noisy) and some spare hours in the weekends
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
... OK, then i'll start the documentation first in german and with time translate/rewrite in english ...
I'm learning a lot simply by reading and writing here, but i think for plain english i need some more direct interaction
But anyway - my timing problem is lack of time at home, so the development runs only at night (where i can't work noisy) and some spare hours in the weekends
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head February 18, 2010 10:30AM |
Hi casainho,
... you can 'engrave' (or melt small cavities or grooves in) dark, good absorbing plastic-surfaces even with 220mW, but only slow and not in depth.
For changing the colour from light to dark you need much higher powers than 500mW - this is depending on the material-absorption, the energy-density (spotsize at specific optical power) and duration-time. The bad thing is the nonlinear behaviour of bright materials (even wood): - you have to heat the spot some millisecond before it went brown and then you instantly burn a hole with uncontrollable depth in some microseconds
The absorption-rate depends highly on the wavelength - 975 is slightly better than 808nm, and the 10064nm from a CO2-laser are perfect for plastics and for our eye bright or transparent materials ...
In metalls it's the other way - shorter wavelengths results in better absorption, but you need much more power ... some 100 Watts to Kilowatts. Or a better laser with smaller spot and so higher energy-density - my 50Watts-fiberlaser can be focussed down to 5 microns, so for micro-cutting comparable to a NdYAG-laser with 1 Kilowatt power and a spot of 200 microns (the energy-density with 50Watt@5microns is much higher, but the thermal distribution around the small spot is much worser)
For the pilot-laser: - it's a guide for adjusting the exact position and only in second a beam-indicator ...
And for laser-goggles: - i have old/outweared goggles with the specified blocking wavelength between 600nm and 1400nm ... functionally, but not producible.
New ones will cost between 200 and 400 Euros, so this is a major price-factor too ...
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
... you can 'engrave' (or melt small cavities or grooves in) dark, good absorbing plastic-surfaces even with 220mW, but only slow and not in depth.
For changing the colour from light to dark you need much higher powers than 500mW - this is depending on the material-absorption, the energy-density (spotsize at specific optical power) and duration-time. The bad thing is the nonlinear behaviour of bright materials (even wood): - you have to heat the spot some millisecond before it went brown and then you instantly burn a hole with uncontrollable depth in some microseconds
The absorption-rate depends highly on the wavelength - 975 is slightly better than 808nm, and the 10064nm from a CO2-laser are perfect for plastics and for our eye bright or transparent materials ...
In metalls it's the other way - shorter wavelengths results in better absorption, but you need much more power ... some 100 Watts to Kilowatts. Or a better laser with smaller spot and so higher energy-density - my 50Watts-fiberlaser can be focussed down to 5 microns, so for micro-cutting comparable to a NdYAG-laser with 1 Kilowatt power and a spot of 200 microns (the energy-density with 50Watt@5microns is much higher, but the thermal distribution around the small spot is much worser)
For the pilot-laser: - it's a guide for adjusting the exact position and only in second a beam-indicator ...
And for laser-goggles: - i have old/outweared goggles with the specified blocking wavelength between 600nm and 1400nm ... functionally, but not producible.
New ones will cost between 200 and 400 Euros, so this is a major price-factor too ...
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head February 18, 2010 12:10PM |
VDX Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi casainho,
>
> ... you can 'engrave' (or melt small cavities or
> grooves in) dark, good absorbing plastic-surfaces
> even with 220mW, but only slow and not in depth.
So maybe is a good bet to go with a 1W IR laser of $35, where we may be able to cut small thin sheets of some plastics or paper?
> For changing the colour from light to dark you
> need much higher powers than 500mW - this is
> depending on the material-absorption, the
> energy-density (spotsize at specific optical
> power) and duration-time. The bad thing is the
> nonlinear behaviour of bright materials (even
> wood): - you have to heat the spot some
> millisecond before it went brown and then you
> instantly burn a hole with uncontrollable depth in
> some microseconds
Today I went to a very small shop that have a laser machine of 50W. The guy there told me that it is difficult when he get different materials, he need to go experimenting...
> The absorption-rate depends highly on the
> wavelength - 975 is slightly better than 808nm,
> and the 10064nm from a CO2-laser are perfect for
> plastics and for our eye bright or transparent
> materials ...
>
> In metalls it's the other way - shorter
> wavelengths results in better absorption, but you
> need much more power ... some 100 Watts to
> Kilowatts. Or a better laser with smaller spot and
> so higher energy-density - my 50Watts-fiberlaser
> can be focussed down to 5 microns, so for
> micro-cutting comparable to a NdYAG-laser with 1
> Kilowatt power and a spot of 200 microns (the
> energy-density with 50Watt@5microns is much
> higher, but the thermal distribution around the
> small spot is much worser)
Ok, I would focus on plastic and paper for now.
> For the pilot-laser: - it's a guide for adjusting
> the exact position and only in second a
> beam-indicator ...
That laser machine also had a pilot laser. And also had 2 warnings signal, one for the invisible laser and other for the visible laser. That machine is all in metal but have a transparent protective cover which I presume does the protection, just as the goggles (the warning signals tells that it acts as protection and machine stops if the cover is open).
The guy don't use the pilot-laser for nothing, just for guide. And he told me that he need to adjust the height (Z) every time he needs to cut different thick material. I saw a plate of acrylic molten because of bad Z adjustment... which guy told me that it started to burn inside machine...
So I think we should avoid for now that pilot-laser, and just maybe use a big RED LED for user indication.
See here this video, where we can see an IR laser working, without a pilot-laser. I would love to have such results :-)
That guy have more interesting videos about this subject.
> And for laser-goggles: - i have old/outweared
> goggles with the specified blocking wavelength
> between 600nm and 1400nm ... functionally, but not
> producible.
>
> New ones will cost between 200 and 400 Euros, so
> this is a major price-factor too ...
Would you trust on a cheap of $29 like this?
If we buy that relative cheap laser of $35, what more else do we need to build a laser head for Mendel? would be possible to repstrap the laser head? and electronic control circuit? any lenses?
---
New cutting edge RepRap electronics, ARM 32 bits @ 100MHz runs RepRap @ 725mm/s:
[www.3dprinting-r2c2.com]
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi casainho,
>
> ... you can 'engrave' (or melt small cavities or
> grooves in) dark, good absorbing plastic-surfaces
> even with 220mW, but only slow and not in depth.
So maybe is a good bet to go with a 1W IR laser of $35, where we may be able to cut small thin sheets of some plastics or paper?
> For changing the colour from light to dark you
> need much higher powers than 500mW - this is
> depending on the material-absorption, the
> energy-density (spotsize at specific optical
> power) and duration-time. The bad thing is the
> nonlinear behaviour of bright materials (even
> wood): - you have to heat the spot some
> millisecond before it went brown and then you
> instantly burn a hole with uncontrollable depth in
> some microseconds
Today I went to a very small shop that have a laser machine of 50W. The guy there told me that it is difficult when he get different materials, he need to go experimenting...
> The absorption-rate depends highly on the
> wavelength - 975 is slightly better than 808nm,
> and the 10064nm from a CO2-laser are perfect for
> plastics and for our eye bright or transparent
> materials ...
>
> In metalls it's the other way - shorter
> wavelengths results in better absorption, but you
> need much more power ... some 100 Watts to
> Kilowatts. Or a better laser with smaller spot and
> so higher energy-density - my 50Watts-fiberlaser
> can be focussed down to 5 microns, so for
> micro-cutting comparable to a NdYAG-laser with 1
> Kilowatt power and a spot of 200 microns (the
> energy-density with 50Watt@5microns is much
> higher, but the thermal distribution around the
> small spot is much worser)
Ok, I would focus on plastic and paper for now.
> For the pilot-laser: - it's a guide for adjusting
> the exact position and only in second a
> beam-indicator ...
That laser machine also had a pilot laser. And also had 2 warnings signal, one for the invisible laser and other for the visible laser. That machine is all in metal but have a transparent protective cover which I presume does the protection, just as the goggles (the warning signals tells that it acts as protection and machine stops if the cover is open).
The guy don't use the pilot-laser for nothing, just for guide. And he told me that he need to adjust the height (Z) every time he needs to cut different thick material. I saw a plate of acrylic molten because of bad Z adjustment... which guy told me that it started to burn inside machine...
So I think we should avoid for now that pilot-laser, and just maybe use a big RED LED for user indication.
See here this video, where we can see an IR laser working, without a pilot-laser. I would love to have such results :-)
That guy have more interesting videos about this subject.
> And for laser-goggles: - i have old/outweared
> goggles with the specified blocking wavelength
> between 600nm and 1400nm ... functionally, but not
> producible.
>
> New ones will cost between 200 and 400 Euros, so
> this is a major price-factor too ...
Would you trust on a cheap of $29 like this?
If we buy that relative cheap laser of $35, what more else do we need to build a laser head for Mendel? would be possible to repstrap the laser head? and electronic control circuit? any lenses?
---
New cutting edge RepRap electronics, ARM 32 bits @ 100MHz runs RepRap @ 725mm/s:
[www.3dprinting-r2c2.com]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head February 18, 2010 06:06PM |
Hi casainho,
> It could be a start for RepRap. We need to start
> with simple things and it is more easy to go
> further if we get more users/developers traction.
>
>
> > Another flaw is that it's not pigtailed
>
> Ok, but the prices you gave for pigtailed lasers
> are much more! Isn't there other cheap option? or
> something in the middle?
... salvaging CD- and DVD-burners would be the cheapest start, but it's only good for some fuming, not real work.
The 'cheap' burning diodes with 20$ to 30$ are only slightly more powerfull, but need all the aditional equipment, as the 5Watt-lasers
So you can start with a wrecked DVD-burner, or go the 'powerfull' way - for me the 'burning' diodes aren't worth worrying about when i have either really cheap CD-lasers complete with optics or the pigtailed 5Watt-types.
The cost-estimation of 100 Euros isn't final - maybe i can sell the pigtailed 5Watt-diodes for 50€ or even less ... this depends on the conditions and reworking-issues ...
> > Testing of the blocking quality is easy: - as
> > web-cams can see the IR-beam, you can direct
> the
> > laserbeam through the goggles on the camera ...
> > with good goggles you can't see any light
> emitting
> > from the laser ...
>
> Nice to know. It's something we can later put on
> wiki, on the section for the safety. I am also
> interested on registering on video and photos this
> systems working, as for doing a kind of art -
> please see this my short video of printing.
... i'll make more photos and videos when the 5Watt-prototypes are working ...
> > For completing a laser-toolhead you need the
> > laser,
> - buy laser (how much? $50, $100, $200?)
... let's see ...
> two lenses,
> - buy lenses... how much they cost? is difficult
> the assembly of them? can a support for laser and
> lenses be printed?
... for a similar 8Watt-diodelaser i lathed some plastic-tubes and put two lenses with 15mm diameter in a 20mm-tube with some distance-fittings, so the complete optical head was 20mm in diameter and maybe 60mm in length - should be really easy to print ...
> a power source of maybe 12
> > Volts and the needed Amps,
> - get a PC PSU, should be more than enough
... yes ...
> a current-driver (e.g.
> > one LM317 as current-stabilizer, or more in
> > parallel for more than 1.5 Ampere),
>
> - Cheap and very easy to prototype :-)
... yes, maybe we can find an even simpler solution later ...
> > a SolidStateRelais capable of the current and a
> > TTL- or PWM-signal for the SSR switching the power
> > through the current-driver and laser ...
>
> - I guess it should also be relative cheap and
> easy to prototype.
... switching with currents below 2 Amps could be done with Darlington-transistors or MOSFETS, what's eventually in the box ...
> So the big problem here is the cost of laser and
> lenses. Would be good if we could make the
> electronics in a way that works with up to maybe
> 5W laser (I guess that laser Vf = 2V and If =
> 2.5A, looks nothing impossible for our cheap and
> simple technology).
... for 5 Watt output power you need more than 10 Watts of electrical energy!
AFAIK the 5Watt-diodes consumes max. 5.2Amps ...
But it's better for lifetime, when not exceeding 4.8Amps, so i'm thinking of 4 LM317 á 1.2Amps (or 5 á 1Ampere) in a parallel configuration, so you can popilate and switch in discrete steps and fine-tune with PWM ...
> We could then just use the same electronics and
> head for a variety of different laser powers. The
> users that want to spend more money would buy a
> more powerful and expensive laser. The head,
> electronics and firmware/software could be the
> same or near the same - this would easy the life
> for everyone :-)
... yes ...
> Viktor, did you made already some laser head using
> a DVD laser? or we can make one for start or
> document what you have already done...€
... i made some tests with fuming, but got some stronger with 1Watt and 8Watt. The 1Watt-diode is pictured in the documentation, later i'll post images with the 5Watt-types ...
> I don't know. But the laser is not on the head,
> head is just a mirror and support.
> The machine have a fume extraction system.
... sound like a CO2-laser - this is the typical laser for cutting organic materials, and better suited for plastic, paper and wood, than a diode-laser ...
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
> It could be a start for RepRap. We need to start
> with simple things and it is more easy to go
> further if we get more users/developers traction.
>
>
> > Another flaw is that it's not pigtailed
>
> Ok, but the prices you gave for pigtailed lasers
> are much more! Isn't there other cheap option? or
> something in the middle?
... salvaging CD- and DVD-burners would be the cheapest start, but it's only good for some fuming, not real work.
The 'cheap' burning diodes with 20$ to 30$ are only slightly more powerfull, but need all the aditional equipment, as the 5Watt-lasers
So you can start with a wrecked DVD-burner, or go the 'powerfull' way - for me the 'burning' diodes aren't worth worrying about when i have either really cheap CD-lasers complete with optics or the pigtailed 5Watt-types.
The cost-estimation of 100 Euros isn't final - maybe i can sell the pigtailed 5Watt-diodes for 50€ or even less ... this depends on the conditions and reworking-issues ...
> > Testing of the blocking quality is easy: - as
> > web-cams can see the IR-beam, you can direct
> the
> > laserbeam through the goggles on the camera ...
> > with good goggles you can't see any light
> emitting
> > from the laser ...
>
> Nice to know. It's something we can later put on
> wiki, on the section for the safety. I am also
> interested on registering on video and photos this
> systems working, as for doing a kind of art -
> please see this my short video of printing.
... i'll make more photos and videos when the 5Watt-prototypes are working ...
> > For completing a laser-toolhead you need the
> > laser,
> - buy laser (how much? $50, $100, $200?)
... let's see ...
> two lenses,
> - buy lenses... how much they cost? is difficult
> the assembly of them? can a support for laser and
> lenses be printed?
... for a similar 8Watt-diodelaser i lathed some plastic-tubes and put two lenses with 15mm diameter in a 20mm-tube with some distance-fittings, so the complete optical head was 20mm in diameter and maybe 60mm in length - should be really easy to print ...
> a power source of maybe 12
> > Volts and the needed Amps,
> - get a PC PSU, should be more than enough
... yes ...
> a current-driver (e.g.
> > one LM317 as current-stabilizer, or more in
> > parallel for more than 1.5 Ampere),
>
> - Cheap and very easy to prototype :-)
... yes, maybe we can find an even simpler solution later ...
> > a SolidStateRelais capable of the current and a
> > TTL- or PWM-signal for the SSR switching the power
> > through the current-driver and laser ...
>
> - I guess it should also be relative cheap and
> easy to prototype.
... switching with currents below 2 Amps could be done with Darlington-transistors or MOSFETS, what's eventually in the box ...
> So the big problem here is the cost of laser and
> lenses. Would be good if we could make the
> electronics in a way that works with up to maybe
> 5W laser (I guess that laser Vf = 2V and If =
> 2.5A, looks nothing impossible for our cheap and
> simple technology).
... for 5 Watt output power you need more than 10 Watts of electrical energy!
AFAIK the 5Watt-diodes consumes max. 5.2Amps ...
But it's better for lifetime, when not exceeding 4.8Amps, so i'm thinking of 4 LM317 á 1.2Amps (or 5 á 1Ampere) in a parallel configuration, so you can popilate and switch in discrete steps and fine-tune with PWM ...
> We could then just use the same electronics and
> head for a variety of different laser powers. The
> users that want to spend more money would buy a
> more powerful and expensive laser. The head,
> electronics and firmware/software could be the
> same or near the same - this would easy the life
> for everyone :-)
... yes ...
> Viktor, did you made already some laser head using
> a DVD laser? or we can make one for start or
> document what you have already done...€
... i made some tests with fuming, but got some stronger with 1Watt and 8Watt. The 1Watt-diode is pictured in the documentation, later i'll post images with the 5Watt-types ...
> I don't know. But the laser is not on the head,
> head is just a mirror and support.
> The machine have a fume extraction system.
... sound like a CO2-laser - this is the typical laser for cutting organic materials, and better suited for plastic, paper and wood, than a diode-laser ...
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head February 18, 2010 06:41PM |
> ... salvaging CD- and DVD-burners would be the
> cheapest start, but it's only good for some
> fuming, not real work.
>
> The 'cheap' burning diodes with 20$ to 30$ are
> only slightly more powerfull, but need all the
> aditional equipment, as the 5Watt-lasers
>
> So you can start with a wrecked DVD-burner, or go
> the 'powerfull' way - for me the 'burning' diodes
> aren't worth worrying about when i have either
> really cheap CD-lasers complete with optics or the
> pigtailed 5Watt-types.
>
> The cost-estimation of 100 Euros isn't final -
> maybe i can sell the pigtailed 5Watt-diodes for
> 50€ or even less ... this depends on the
> conditions and reworking-issues ...
50€ I think would be good. The final price of this head would not be much more than an extruder or heated bed module.
> ... i'll make more photos and videos when the
> 5Watt-prototypes are working ...
Please do it :-)
> > two lenses,
> > - buy lenses... how much they cost? is
> difficult
> > the assembly of them? can a support for laser
> and
> > lenses be printed?
>
> ... for a similar 8Watt-diodelaser i lathed some
> plastic-tubes and put two lenses with 15mm
> diameter in a 20mm-tube with some
> distance-fittings, so the complete optical head
> was 20mm in diameter and maybe 60mm in length -
> should be really easy to print ...
Were can we get that lenses? can you send a link were we can read more about them?
> ... for 5 Watt output power you need more than 10
> Watts of electrical energy!
Not a real problem, actual extruder heater uses about 30W and heated bed uses about 80W.
> AFAIK the 5Watt-diodes consumes max. 5.2Amps ...
>
> But it's better for lifetime, when not exceeding
> 4.8Amps, so i'm thinking of 4 LM317 á 1.2Amps (or
> 5 á 1Ampere) in a parallel configuration, so you
> can popilate and switch in discrete steps and
> fine-tune with PWM ...
Maybe a circuit for a power LED would be ideal for this task.
We need to be able to control the current of the laser and to be able to turn off and on, at which frequencies? which duty cycles? which rise up times?
Isn't there any Open Source project already over Internet were we can reuse the schematic and information?
---
New cutting edge RepRap electronics, ARM 32 bits @ 100MHz runs RepRap @ 725mm/s:
[www.3dprinting-r2c2.com]
> cheapest start, but it's only good for some
> fuming, not real work.
>
> The 'cheap' burning diodes with 20$ to 30$ are
> only slightly more powerfull, but need all the
> aditional equipment, as the 5Watt-lasers
>
> So you can start with a wrecked DVD-burner, or go
> the 'powerfull' way - for me the 'burning' diodes
> aren't worth worrying about when i have either
> really cheap CD-lasers complete with optics or the
> pigtailed 5Watt-types.
>
> The cost-estimation of 100 Euros isn't final -
> maybe i can sell the pigtailed 5Watt-diodes for
> 50€ or even less ... this depends on the
> conditions and reworking-issues ...
50€ I think would be good. The final price of this head would not be much more than an extruder or heated bed module.
> ... i'll make more photos and videos when the
> 5Watt-prototypes are working ...
Please do it :-)
> > two lenses,
> > - buy lenses... how much they cost? is
> difficult
> > the assembly of them? can a support for laser
> and
> > lenses be printed?
>
> ... for a similar 8Watt-diodelaser i lathed some
> plastic-tubes and put two lenses with 15mm
> diameter in a 20mm-tube with some
> distance-fittings, so the complete optical head
> was 20mm in diameter and maybe 60mm in length -
> should be really easy to print ...
Were can we get that lenses? can you send a link were we can read more about them?
> ... for 5 Watt output power you need more than 10
> Watts of electrical energy!
Not a real problem, actual extruder heater uses about 30W and heated bed uses about 80W.
> AFAIK the 5Watt-diodes consumes max. 5.2Amps ...
>
> But it's better for lifetime, when not exceeding
> 4.8Amps, so i'm thinking of 4 LM317 á 1.2Amps (or
> 5 á 1Ampere) in a parallel configuration, so you
> can popilate and switch in discrete steps and
> fine-tune with PWM ...
Maybe a circuit for a power LED would be ideal for this task.
We need to be able to control the current of the laser and to be able to turn off and on, at which frequencies? which duty cycles? which rise up times?
Isn't there any Open Source project already over Internet were we can reuse the schematic and information?
---
New cutting edge RepRap electronics, ARM 32 bits @ 100MHz runs RepRap @ 725mm/s:
[www.3dprinting-r2c2.com]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head March 10, 2010 05:00PM |
... marginal update: - the shipment of the 5Watt-diodes delayed, so i tested soldering and wire-bonding with my 50Watt-laser at 5 Watts and 10 Watts with defocussed beam to get nearly the same conditions as with a diodelaser.
5Watts CW at 1070nm (diodelaser=975nm) is enough to melt a 0.5mm thick solder-wire and fuse the solder with the copper-plating of a PCB - 10Watts is slightly overkill ... it burns the underlying PCB and oxidizes the solder
Clean copper-wire with 0.1mm diameter can be soldered with a droplet of previous positioned solder or a blob of solder-paste positioned over the wire.
The coating of isolated copper-wire can be burned away, here the type and thicknes of the coating is to be tested, but shouldn't be a big problem.
With a proper feeding-methode a wire-wrap-head feeding thin isolated copper-wire from a presoldered pad to another would be a great tool for fabbing PCB's ... only the cutting of the wires is to be solved.
With the 50Watt-laser and a spot smaller 50microns i can evaporate/cut the wire, but with a diodelaser and much bigger spot (between 200 and 500 microns when bundeling more 5Watt-diodes to a stronger module) i have no chance ...
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
5Watts CW at 1070nm (diodelaser=975nm) is enough to melt a 0.5mm thick solder-wire and fuse the solder with the copper-plating of a PCB - 10Watts is slightly overkill ... it burns the underlying PCB and oxidizes the solder
Clean copper-wire with 0.1mm diameter can be soldered with a droplet of previous positioned solder or a blob of solder-paste positioned over the wire.
The coating of isolated copper-wire can be burned away, here the type and thicknes of the coating is to be tested, but shouldn't be a big problem.
With a proper feeding-methode a wire-wrap-head feeding thin isolated copper-wire from a presoldered pad to another would be a great tool for fabbing PCB's ... only the cutting of the wires is to be solved.
With the 50Watt-laser and a spot smaller 50microns i can evaporate/cut the wire, but with a diodelaser and much bigger spot (between 200 and 500 microns when bundeling more 5Watt-diodes to a stronger module) i have no chance ...
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head March 10, 2010 05:10PM |
VDX Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> ... marginal update: - the shipment of the
> 5Watt-diodes delayed, so i tested soldering and
> wire-bonding with my 50Watt-laser at 5 Watts and
> 10 Watts with defocussed beam to get nearly the
> same conditions as with a diodelaser.
>
> 5Watts CW at 1070nm (diodelaser=975nm) is enough
> to melt a 0.5mm thick solder-wire and fuse the
> solder with the copper-plating of a PCB - 10Watts
> is slightly overkill ... it burns the underlying
> PCB and oxidizes the solder
Good idea and work :-)
Couldn't we mill a PCB using a 10W (or other) diode laser?
> Clean copper-wire with 0.1mm diameter can be
> soldered with a droplet of previous positioned
> solder or a blob of solder-paste positioned over
> the wire.
>
> The coating of isolated copper-wire can be burned
> away, here the type and thicknes of the coating is
> to be tested, but shouldn't be a big problem.
>
> With a proper feeding-methode a wire-wrap-head
> feeding thin isolated copper-wire from a
> presoldered pad to another would be a great tool
> for fabbing PCB's ... only the cutting of the
> wires is to be solved.
>
> With the 50Watt-laser and a spot smaller 50microns
> i can evaporate/cut the wire, but with a
> diodelaser and much bigger spot (between 200 and
> 500 microns when bundeling more 5Watt-diodes to a
> stronger module) i have no chance ...
If a diode laser could melt ABS or other plastic, I would prefer to make a printer using ABS powder, like this one: [homemade3dprinter.blogspot.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2010 05:11PM by casainho.
---
New cutting edge RepRap electronics, ARM 32 bits @ 100MHz runs RepRap @ 725mm/s:
[www.3dprinting-r2c2.com]
-------------------------------------------------------
> ... marginal update: - the shipment of the
> 5Watt-diodes delayed, so i tested soldering and
> wire-bonding with my 50Watt-laser at 5 Watts and
> 10 Watts with defocussed beam to get nearly the
> same conditions as with a diodelaser.
>
> 5Watts CW at 1070nm (diodelaser=975nm) is enough
> to melt a 0.5mm thick solder-wire and fuse the
> solder with the copper-plating of a PCB - 10Watts
> is slightly overkill ... it burns the underlying
> PCB and oxidizes the solder
Good idea and work :-)
Couldn't we mill a PCB using a 10W (or other) diode laser?
> Clean copper-wire with 0.1mm diameter can be
> soldered with a droplet of previous positioned
> solder or a blob of solder-paste positioned over
> the wire.
>
> The coating of isolated copper-wire can be burned
> away, here the type and thicknes of the coating is
> to be tested, but shouldn't be a big problem.
>
> With a proper feeding-methode a wire-wrap-head
> feeding thin isolated copper-wire from a
> presoldered pad to another would be a great tool
> for fabbing PCB's ... only the cutting of the
> wires is to be solved.
>
> With the 50Watt-laser and a spot smaller 50microns
> i can evaporate/cut the wire, but with a
> diodelaser and much bigger spot (between 200 and
> 500 microns when bundeling more 5Watt-diodes to a
> stronger module) i have no chance ...
If a diode laser could melt ABS or other plastic, I would prefer to make a printer using ABS powder, like this one: [homemade3dprinter.blogspot.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2010 05:11PM by casainho.
---
New cutting edge RepRap electronics, ARM 32 bits @ 100MHz runs RepRap @ 725mm/s:
[www.3dprinting-r2c2.com]
|
Re: Laser Cutting Head March 10, 2010 05:52PM |
casainho Wrote:
> Couldn't we mill a PCB using a 10W (or other)
> diode laser?
... no - copper is highly reflective and heat-conducting, so you'll need much more energy-density and when melting through the copper the material of the PCB will absorb to much energy and explode
Some ten years ago i tried this: - with an Excimer-laser at UV-wavelengths you can engrave copper, but this lasers aren't avaliable in DIY-range
With a 100Watts-NdYAG-laser i made a trick - bought PCB's with 50% thicker copper-plating, engraved only 75% of the copper-thickness and etched 30% of the copper away, so the engraved paths were cleared and the residue of the copper-plating was slightly thicker than with conventional PCB's ...
For direct engraving you should better try with coating the copper with a thin layer of black plastic, burn the plastic away and etch the free'd copper ...
> If a diode laser could melt ABS or other plastic,
> I would prefer to make a printer using ABS powder,
> like this one:
> [homemade3dprinter.blogspot.com]
... yes, powder-sintering is the other interesting fabbing process i'm going with the diodelaser-modules
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2010 05:54PM by VDX.
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
> Couldn't we mill a PCB using a 10W (or other)
> diode laser?
... no - copper is highly reflective and heat-conducting, so you'll need much more energy-density and when melting through the copper the material of the PCB will absorb to much energy and explode
Some ten years ago i tried this: - with an Excimer-laser at UV-wavelengths you can engrave copper, but this lasers aren't avaliable in DIY-range
With a 100Watts-NdYAG-laser i made a trick - bought PCB's with 50% thicker copper-plating, engraved only 75% of the copper-thickness and etched 30% of the copper away, so the engraved paths were cleared and the residue of the copper-plating was slightly thicker than with conventional PCB's ...
For direct engraving you should better try with coating the copper with a thin layer of black plastic, burn the plastic away and etch the free'd copper ...
> If a diode laser could melt ABS or other plastic,
> I would prefer to make a printer using ABS powder,
> like this one:
> [homemade3dprinter.blogspot.com]
... yes, powder-sintering is the other interesting fabbing process i'm going with the diodelaser-modules
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2010 05:54PM by VDX.
Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]
Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
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