2 Color printing with out 2 heads.

I Have been Printing for about a month, I built a Tevo Tarantula and bought a E3d head and modified it to feed continuously, Here is how...

With a 11/32nd" drill bit I drilled out the Hex part of the Brass Tube lock, careful with this part, to deep and you ruin the locking part of this thing.

Next I drilled a 11/32"hole, 1/8" deep into the top of the E3d heat sink, Not all the way though, this is where the tube rests when pushed all the way through the brass piece.



This is the second time I have tried to post this, the first time was much longer and I cant seem to post pics so maybe I will post links.

[www.dropbox.com]

[www.dropbox.com]

If anyone can fix this feel free to do so, Pics. to big. and I am not smart enough to make them smaller.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/30/2016 11:16AM by IOWOLF.

Well, I can see by no comments this doesn't interest anyone, I know Pics would help But who ever heard of limiting size of pics.


Or perhaps It was posted before, and I am not as smart as I think.

Assuming that no response within a couple of hours of posting indicates no interest is unrealistic. Some people may have looked at the forum a minute before you posted, gone to sleep, and won't wake up for another 8 hours. Certainly the topic *sounds* interesting.

The first picture shows a brass ring set into the top of an heatsink with a PTFE liner, which seems to correspond to your description. The second link is 404.

I don't quite understand what you mean by "bought a E3d head and modified it to feed continuously". E3Ds, and every other kind of filament-fed hot-end that I know of, *do* feed continuously. What exactly is the purpose of removing the top of the Bowden connector?

And I'm trying to figure out how this relates to 2 color printing. Is this some kind of quick-change Bowden thing to allow you to quickly change filament, and therefore ease 2-color printing? Or do you feed two 1.75mm filaments into a single 3mm? hot-end, or something like that? Is this Tarantula-specific, or a mod that could be applied to other types of printers?

Perhaps you could elucidate?

Havent looked at the images, as dropbox is fighting me...

but sounds like a diy two bore damond head or similar

Quote
frankvdh
Assuming that no response within a couple of hours of posting indicates no interest is unrealistic. Some people may have looked at the forum a minute before you posted, gone to sleep, and won't wake up for another 8 hours. Certainly the topic *sounds* interesting.

The first picture shows a brass ring set into the top of an heatsink with a PTFE liner, which seems to correspond to your description. The second link is 404.

I don't quite understand what you mean by "bought a E3d head and modified it to feed continuously". E3Ds, and every other kind of filament-fed hot-end that I know of, *do* feed continuously. What exactly is the purpose of removing the top of the Bowden connector?

And I'm trying to figure out how this relates to 2 color printing. Is this some kind of quick-change Bowden thing to allow you to quickly change filament, and therefore ease 2-color printing? Or do you feed two 1.75mm filaments into a single 3mm? hot-end, or something like that? Is this Tarantula-specific, or a mod that could be applied to other types of printers?

Perhaps you could elucidate?

All good Questions / comments , thanx for replying.
I guess I was being Unrealistic But I figured after 20 some views someone would have a comment, I was wrong.

Let's move on....

#1 , No brass ring at all, I drilled out the hex end of the "Bowden connector ",the PTFE liner is to show size(I am using 1.75 Filament).
#2 , If one could section a heat sink and Bowden con. as they were together you could see they have a space where the filament is not supported, therefor the filament can slip off the preceding filament ( so no continuous push),My way allows the liner to go through the Bowden and into the heat sink so no gap for it to slip off and stop feeding.

#3 , as I am new to all of this I am unsure if this is specific to the Tarantula or can be used for any Ptfe setup , It should work with any thing that does not have a drive on the printer head.

As for 2 color printing, You can cut the filament at the drive head and feed a new color and end up with a Layered effect( without a cold joint) this will take practice if you want to change colors in a specific place, such as raised letters.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2016 07:20AM by IOWOLF.

I made the same mods with my e3d clones, so I assume its not tarantula specific.

If you want to have the color change at a specific layer, you can use the "pause@z" function from Cura. Then retract the whole filament and feed it with the new color.
Manually push the filament through until the new color appears, then resume the print.

I also did it with the "filament change" function in marlin FW, but the head parking position is not fixed after the stepper driver timeout is over due.

With the Pause function I get cold seams and some things have broke, YMMV.

And sometimes a glob where the nozzle sets.