Help me find a 3dprinter heatbed.

Im looking for a 3d printer heat bed thats 20 inches by 20 inches.I cant find one but i thin that there have to be one with that dimmesion becouse i seen 3d printer that are massive .

At that size you're going to have to make your own heated bed. 3D printing hasn't reached nearly 1/4 the level of computers in that you can buy something of everything and it hooks together. A super-majority of parts are self-sourced, the beds you see are likely just parts ordered in bulk, put together, and resold. You'll have to find your own parts to make your bed.
I've sourced my aluminum plate from Misumi and I'm having to build my own heater from scratch [right now I'm looking at the option of a Carbon Fiber heater from ACP composites's carbon fiber tissue] along with the mounting. I'm also sourcing my own parts for everything else. My build plate is 650mm by 300mm by 5mm.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

Do you know how to build a heatbed from scratch? or maybe a can connect the wire to a coil system and then place a peace of safteyglass on top of it and that can be my heatbed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/09/2014 12:31PM by nick6765.

I just realize something,why cant i just buy lots of small heatbed tell i reach the dimmesion i want and place aluminum on top of them.

If you do that, make sure you get the right wattage. I avoided using two heating pads because of mounting issues and power consumption. I don't want to have to use an SSR, I like keeping things simple in concept and parts, even if not in manufacture.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

Yeah i understand,i seen other people try to creat a heatbed and it work but it does not work forever ,but know i have to find 10 " by 10" heatbed ,so i need 4 heat bed or if i cant find 10" then i need 5" by 5" but i dont want that becouse its going to need more power.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/09/2014 06:04PM by nick6765.

you can buy silicon heatbeds for about $50 for the size you are looking for.

That doesn't solve the mounting issue, but thanks.
I found a few companies that could custom make a Silicon pad with cutouts and everything, but I'd rather spend <$100 and put more effort in than pay >$300 for a ready-made one.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

I found this [store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com]
i can buy 4 of them but it will cost way 2 much so i think i have to create a heat bed from scratch so it can be cheap but very large.

Im going to create the boared from scratch but first i need aluminum,Can you guyes help me look for a 5mm thick and 20" by 20" sheet or plate

You will need to get aluminum "tooling plate". Extruded plate is always curved. Tooling plate is cast, and milled to guaranteed flatness. Extruded plate will tend to warp when heated, cast plate expands but doesn't seem to warp as much (probably due to more amorphous structure). I use 1/4" x 12" x 12.5" tooling plate in my printer and can print edge to edge.
I don't know if you can get 20"x20" x 5mm tooling plate- when it gets big I think it gets thick because it has a guaranteed flatness spec and large, thin plate might sag out of spec because of its own weight.

The silicone heaters are heavy. Look for a kapton heater like this: [store.makerstoolworks.com] It is much lighter weight and self adhesive. I use a similar heater rated at 450 W (24V at about 20A) and it heats the bed to 105C in about 7 minutes. I use a SSR driven by the RAMPS board to switch 117VAC into a 24V buck/boost transformer rated for 500W, so the bed heater runs on AC power. The SSR has a zero-crossing detector built in so it only switches when line voltage is near zero and doesn't cause huge inrush currents. The transformer just makes a little "bump" "bump" sound when the power is switched into it. Transformers are much more reliable than switchmode power supplies.

I understand what your are say but i want a print bed that is 508 mm by 508 mm or 20 inches by 20 inches .I can build a heatbed from scratch but its going to be to heavy .Maybe i can by 4 heat beds but then i have to find 1 10 inch by 10 inch witch i dont i cant find .Anyone else got some ideas on how i can find or make a heat bed or if i connect 4 heat bed or 16 heat bed together if it will work.

[www.makerfarm.com]
im going to buy 9 of this heatbed .Deos anyone now were i can buy or make a extruder .I want to print thick plastic .Also deos anyone know what arduino boared is good or microcontroler are good for my type of build .

You can find some inspiration in this topic: [forums.reprap.org]
google translate would help you

It didnt help me that much ,sorry.Im jsut looking away were i can find or creat the right size that i need

I think ill worry about the heatbed another time ,but does anyone know what are good steper motor for my type of 3d printer .I want to creat a very big 3d printer ans i also need help with the extruder if anyone know how to make a homemade extruder

Here's a design which allows any size and any wattage: [www.reprap.org]

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY

This is what I'm looking for but I never found anything like this,thank you.im going to save some money up and in going to buy all the parts but do you know we're I can get 509mm by 509mm aluminum plates or 20" by 20".

A little bigger than you need: [www.ebay.com]

Yeah,it cost a lot maybe I can use glasses .

Glass doesn't conduct heat so you'll end up with a lot of hot/cool spots.

There are some circular pieces of tooling plate about 400+ mm dia that are pretty cheap on ebay.

I know a place you could get silocon heat bed that size for aboit $50 shipped
you have to tell her you are from my company. Amd you pay her direct And you talk with her.

Message me and i will send you link. As im not on my home computer

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2014 02:51AM by pushthatbolder.

It's ok ,I'm going with the metal and glass on top

Maybe instead of buying the aluminum plate I can get a lot of things made of aluminum and melt it down to the shape I want.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/29/2014 06:59PM by nick6765.

Hmmm. You're talking about casting a plate. Then you have to finish it. I would consider the time, effort, tools, and materials all that would take, and the low probability of success, and then ask myself what is my time/labor worth and is that really the sort of problem I want to devote my energy to. For me, no. Maybe you have different priorities. You could buy rod stock and a tap and die set and make every screw and nut used in the printer, too, but why would anyone want to do that?

I originally intended to use a 12" x 16" bed, but then I discovered that 12' X 16" plates are not off-the-shelf and that 12" x 16" heaters are likewise not readily available at a reasonable cost, so I went to 12" x 12" and was able to buy a cheap cast plate and a cheap kapton heater. When you're on a budget you gotta compromise. I don't miss the extra few inches of print bed and do not regret the compromise in the least.

do you know where to buy?




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You know it is possible/easy to print with ABS on unheated PIR foam. I have done it- see

[vimeo.com]
[vimeo.com]
[vimeo.com]
[vimeo.com]

As you can see, it sticks quite well!

I got the idea from an industrial Stratasys 3D printer that prints on expensive polyurethane foam blocks. No, the bottom surface won't be as smooth as it would on a glass or aluminum bed, but most of the time that smooth bottom surface isn't needed. The Stratasys foam is open cell type and a bit stiffer than PIR. PIR is usually a closed cell structure but works fine anyway.

I have not tried PLA, but since the sticking seems to be a mechanical rather than a chemical bond, I believe it will work.

PIR foam (polyisocyanurate) is used in construction industry for fire resistant building insulation. You can buy it at Home Depot, Lowes, or any other home improvement store. At Home Depot a 4' x 8' x 1" sheet sells for $15. You can print on the same piece of foam over and over again (use the z-offset parameter in Slic3r when you print), so while it isn't free, it is so cheap as to not matter. You can cut the foam to any size you need, including 20"x20" with a razor knife. It comes with aluminum foil, paper, or plastic film glued to one or both sides which you can easily peel off to prepare the foam for printing.

A PIR foam print bed doesn't have to be level, flat, or heated. You just bury the extruder nozzle about 1mm into the foam when printing the first layer and your part will stick- this is exactly how it is done in the Stratasys machine. It makes the printer much simpler- no power supply for the printbed, no wires, no waiting for the bed to heat up, no kapton tape or ABS juice. The foam can be put directly on the undercarriage with no complicated screws/springs for leveling. The low mass means you can use simpler mechanical structure in the printer and smaller, lower cost motors and belts and still get good results.

PIR foam is usually a yellowish color. Do not use the pink or blue stuff- that's polystyrene and it will melt and burn at extruder nozzle temperatures, producing hazardous fumes. PIR foam is fire resistant and doesn't melt or produce hazardous fumes at extruder nozzle temperatures (see MSDS here: [www.dunagroup.com]). At 500C it can burn and will produce HCN fumes (so will your filament), but we don't get close to that temperature in 3D printing. If your hot end is getting up to 500C you've got more than HCN fume problems to worry about!

You can test it the same way I did- just tape or glue a piece of PIR foam to the printbed of your printer and use the z-offset parameter in Slic3r to put the nozzle about 1 mm into the surface of the foam for the first layer. Try printing with and without a raft.

Quote
nick6765
Maybe instead of buying the aluminum plate I can get a lot of things made of aluminum and melt it down to the shape I want.

From all my knowledge of 3D printing (not much....yet) the importance of having a nearly perfectly flat bed to print on (leveling it aside) cannot be emphasized enough.

How sure are you that you can cast a VERY flat surface?

My impression of this subject is that this is NOT the place cut corners (as trying to print on a non-smooth, flat or un-level surface is going to be massively frustrating).

you could get one of these and put a glass plate over it

20X20cm 500W 110V Keenovo Powerful Universal Silicone Heater Pad,

[www.ebay.com]

Connecting 110V to the printer isn't a good idea because of potential safety problems. In order to be safe you'd have to connect through a transformer, but if you';re going to do that, you may as well use a lower, safer voltage.
Glass plates are fine for unheated beds, but glass is a poor conductor of heat and you'll end up with hot and cold spots. Some people use an aluminum bed to spread the heat and then use thin glass plates on top of the aluminum to print. That allows you to take a finished part and plate off the printer and replace it with another piece of glass while the first one goes into a freezer to release the printed part.