I would like to combine dglass3D hotend [www.dglass3d.com] with kraken.
I am not an expert in hotends and would appreciate some comments and what i need to think about.
One of the problems is that it is really hard to drill a long 2mm hole and get a nice surface, I might be better of using some 4 mm ptfe tube and just have 20 mm 2 mm hole?
I will start to do a trial with just 2 nozzles and run it on my ormerod.

Kraken has 4 extruders
so you are going to add 2 more extruders

Whole lot of squirtin going on here

Quote
cozmicray
Kraken has 4 extruders
so you are going to add 2 more extruders

Whole lot of squirtin going on here[/quote
Do you understand the design?

The Kraken design?
The DGlass3D design?
Your design?

So with Kraken having 4 nozzles
does this mean you are going to add 2 more?

or do a "Kraken" 4 nozzle design with DGlass3D nozzles?

Drilling a 2mm hole in what material?
drill smaller and polish out?
Is 2mm for 1.75mm filament?

Why not just mount 4 DGlass3D hot ends on a plate
with minimum distance between
or enough room for the extruder mechanisms

Why do you need to squirt 4 hotends?

Quote
cozmicray
The Kraken design?
The DGlass3D design?
Your design?

So with Kraken having 4 nozzles
does this mean you are going to add 2 more?

or do a "Kraken" 4 nozzle design with DGlass3D nozzles?

Drilling a 2mm hole in what material?
drill smaller and polish out?
Is 2mm for 1.75mm filament?

Why not just mount 4 DGlass3D hot ends on a plate


with minimum distance between
or enough room for the extruder mechanisms

Why do you need to squirt 4 hotends?

Have you reed my posts? Or are you just here to be annoying? Do you think it is easier to drill 1.75????

Yes I have read your posts and I can't understand what you are trying to do?

By the number of other comments to your post -- seems others are miffed also?

No annoying -- just trying to understand your purpose / design and comment.

???? There is 3mm and 1.75mm filament --- I was commenting on producing smooth hole
close to filament diameter to guide filament into extruder hotend.

Hotend must transfer heat easily to melt PLA/ABS
and then there must be thermal isolator to protect extruder mechanism

Glass may be a great thermal isolator if it can be produced and safe.





[/quote]
Have you reed my posts? Or are you just here to be annoying? Do you think it is easier to drill 1.75????[/quote]

Great idea Joar

I have been working on this for a while, hopefully after my next revision it will finally be working good enough to post the design online (mine is for delta type printers though).

here is an earlier version, I have since added bushings and made a few other modifications
[forum.seemecnc.com]

Your design looks good not sure why you have the springs exposed. I would allow more travel, I am shooting for ~2mm. Also the springs need to be pretty weak just enough to lift the hot end or they hold it down which kinda defeats the purpose (I am using Century Springs' U-74, k=8.3lbs/in). Your design did inspire some changes to my design which I hope to create a more reliable solution.

As to the challenge of drilling the SS I gave up on making my own hot ends a while back. My design is built around the E3D hot end... let them deal with polishing the bore I say...

Mike

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/14/2015 01:51AM by mikefazz.

Quote
Joar107
One of the problems is that it is really hard to drill a long 2mm hole and get a nice surface, I might be better of using some 4 mm ptfe tube and just have 20 mm 2 mm hole?

Yep, hard to drill a deep 2mm hole. To get a nice surface, use a reamer. I dont think off the top of my head... that they would make a 2mm hone, but that would make it a nice hole. maybe EDM and use a reamer? just ideas...

4 years ago you were posting a design of a retractable nozzle; what is the status of the design? Do you have it in use? What are the pit falls?
I'm in the process designing my own but why inventing the wheel if you were successful, right?
Could you please let me know the status of this project?