Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes

Hello All,
I have built 2 lead screw based 3d printers each with a different set of lead screws offering different specs. While I am not a expert in lead screws I have had great success with my builds. When I get home from this job ( should be next month ) I will post more current video's / photos and over all details. I am much further along then I have been able to post or record. For now here is a run down on my builds and the lead screws specs I went with.

The first printer is a large format (12x12) printer based off of the Lautr3k designed by Skarab (Sébastien Mischler) and modified since for my build. His design was based on using the lead screws from
Trinitylabs. When trinitylabs went under. I tracked down the part number for the screws they used from PBC Linear. However they are not available to the common builder. When I contacted PBC I was told they will only sale that lead screw to large oem's now. Not to small company's or individuals.

I had the specs of the Trinitylabs lead screw in hand (12mm Dia 10 Start 25mm Lead 2.5mm pitch) Next I had to source a company who made this spec of lead screw and would sale it to us on a individual biases machined to our specs. It has taken a lot of leg work and phone calls but I was able to find replacements.

Igus part number PTGSG-12x25-R-ES
and
Thompson part number SRA10-12X2.5M

The problem with both of those options is cost! If you have a lathe and can turn down the ends to fit your printer your self the cost is not to bad, But like me if you need the screws to be a specific size with each end turned down precisely. The cost goes threw the roof. The second problem I had with those options above was unlike the TL / PBC units they did not come with or offer a anti-backlasnut.

So back to the drawing board I went. Eventually I found the ideal PBC / TL replacement lead screw! It has the same specs and comes with a backlash nut. Perfect. Well other then price, price to have it machined to my spec was still a concern.
Thompson part number XCF10-12x2.5M

So here is a older photo of my Fina build and the specs on what I ended up using for lead screws and motors.



Z Axis--
Dual Leadscrew Driven
-10mm Dia 2mm Pitch
Dual Nema 17 40mm Tall Motors
-64oz 17HS16-2004S
-Current Per Phase: 2A
-Step Angle: 1.8°

--X Axis--
Leadscrew Driven
-12mm dia. 6 starts 18mm lead 3mm pitch
Nema 17 48mm Tall Motor
-76oz KL17H248-15-4A
-Current Per Phase: 1.5A
-Step Angle: 1.8°

--Y Axis--
Leadscrew Driven
-12mm dia. 6 starts 18mm lead 3mm pitch
Nema 17 48mm Tall Motor
-76oz KL17H248-15-4A
-Current Per Phase: 1.5A
-Step Angle: 1.8°

Here is the first second and third print on this printer, I had to put it away after this to take the job i am on now. I will update more later. Over all it is a quick reasonably quite printer and I am very happy with it. I am considering letting this one go to make room for my C-beam machine cnc. ( I have have a 9x10 work shop and to many projects lol )

20x20 cube



3DBenchy ( great print for calibration )



Pink Panther







There was no calibration done to the printer or extruder / filament before making these prints I wanted a base line right after build was complete. The one problem I have had with this printer / design was not from the lead screws but from the fact the y-axis wheels are mounted in the printed bed mount and over time they get lose and cause problems There are many ways of fixing this I planned on using a new adjustable linear guide option from Igus with newly design Y-axis parts.



I have also gotten a lot of questions asking me to compare it to a belt driven machine so i have designed up a Belt Y-axis for testing purposes. This way I could directly compare lead screw vs belt on the same printer.



My second printer Adamantine is 100% my own design. This started as a way to test the speed and accuracy of cheaper lead screw options compared to the cost (several hundred+machining) of the ones I used in Fina.
Here is the only photo I have of Adamantine with me at the moment , this is mid build.



Z Axis--
Dual Leadscrew Driven
-8mm dia. 4 starts 8mm lead 2mm pitch
Dual Nema 17 40mm Tall Motors
-64oz 17HS16-2004S
-Current Per Phase: 2A
-Step Angle: 1.8°

--X Axis--
Leadscrew Driven
-8mm dia. 4 starts 8mm lead 2mm pitch
Nema 17 48mm Tall Motor
-76oz KL17H248-15-4A
-Current Per Phase: 1.5A
-Step Angle: 1.8°

--Y Axis--
Leadscrew Driven
-8mm dia. 4 starts 8mm lead 2mm pitch
Nema 17 48mm Tall Motor
-76oz KL17H248-15-4A
-Current Per Phase: 1.5A
-Step Angle: 1.8°

No prints on this printer as of yet, I will dive right back into the build as soon as I get home from this job next month and have more to add concerning the lead screw choices I made for this printer.

So why lead screws? I decided to give a full lead screw build a go for a few different reasons. I was tired of the stretch and backlash I was getting from my belt printers. I wanted a lower part count and less maintenance. Ect. Ect. I could go on and on. But at the end of the day I chose lead screws for one reason. I wanted to learn with something new. Having never built a lead screw based cnc object like a 3d printer. The possibility's intrigued me and I dove right in head first. for better or worse at the end of this adventure I would have more knowledge then when I started and have had a lot of fun along the way.


To directly answer some of the above questions.
- How to make it cheap?
There is no simple answer here. Quality costs! At the end of the day it is a balance of what you expect and what you can live with compared to what you are willing to spend.
- How to make it wear resistant?
Nothing in motion is wear resistant, However we can do our best to help it out. I chose to go with high end precision ground lead screws with Self lubricating nuts on Fina.
- How to lubricate?
This is somthing I did not want to forget during maintenance so I chose self lubricating nuts on Fina.
- Could we rely on rotating lead screws for straightness?
Not at a affordable price point no, Even with higher end products you have the chance of shipping damages or errors. You can check your screw with a dial indicator along its length for bows and bends.
- prevent play in the lead screw:
On Adamantine I preloaded the screws on recommendation during install. I am not sure if this will work yet. ( it is not printing.)

What printing speed do you print at normally, and what is max movement speed? Asking as my lead screws can move much slower than belts without belts causing problems.
He stretching you talked about: what kinds of belts and did you use Bowden? Should not happen with gt2 belts and Bowden for sure. Especially not on dual belt designs like Ultimaker and similar.

Good work. Above us not meant as criticism but genuine interest

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 04:26PM by dintid.

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

On my lead screw printers I run anywhere from 60mm/s - 100mm/s Depending on print. I really don't push the speed much, but can get it up and going when needed. The above Pink Panther print was done with the following specs.
PLA
Nozzle 190 *c
Glass Bed ( with tape no heat bed )
60 mm/s
0.35 First Layer Height
0.2 Layer Height
0% Infill Pink Panther ( 20% Hexagon Infill For 3DBenchy )
3 perimeter layers

Here is a 100mm/s speed demo i filmed a while ago.
[www.youtube.com]

My first printer was / is a prusa derivative I assembled my self. It currently uses a heavy geared extruder with a nema 17 and hexagon hot end. I do plan on giving it a overhaul and upgrade it with proper GT2 belts and a bowden e3d v6 hotend. I have most of the parts to do it just have not had the time yet.

Very nice. Expected much slower speeds.
Haven't seen the YouTube yet.

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

Sorry for the radio silence guys, I'm getting back into lead screw sourcing today.

Quote
nophead
For quick movement with longevity you need multi-start high lead ball screws and that is not compatible with low cost.

Some rough numbers on life time and cost:

M̲a̲n̲u̲f̲a̲c̲t̲u̲r̲e̲r̲ ̲a̲n̲d̲ ̲s̲i̲z̲e̲ ̲|̲ ̲$̲P̲r̲i̲c̲e̲ ̲f̲o̲r̲ ̲1̲ ̲m̲ ̲+̲ ̲2̲ ̲f̲l̲a̲n̲g̲e̲d̲ ̲n̲u̲t̲s̲ ̲e̲x̲c̲l̲ ̲V̲A̲T̲ ̲|̲ ̲L̲i̲f̲e̲ ̲t̲i̲m̲e̲/̲M̲s̲t̲r̲o̲k̲e̲s̲ ̲|̲ ̲$̲P̲r̲i̲c̲e̲/̲M̲s̲t̲r̲o̲k̲e̲
I̲g̲u̲s̲ ̲D̲S̲1̲0̲x̲2̲5̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲|̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲~̲1̲6̲0̲ ̲|̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲~̲2̲6̲.̲0̲ ̲|̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲ ̲~̲ ̲6̲.̲2̲
Igus DS6.35x25.4      |                                     ~130 |               ~7.4 |          ~17.6

where Mstrokes means million strokes. Sources: Norwegian rs-online and Igus screwdrives product finder.

[EDIT 5 feb: Noticed that the above life time numbers are extremely sensitive to life time calculator input. I'm unable to exactly reproduce them, so take them with a grain of salt. Also noticed that listed life times are independent of lead screw materials (stainless and aluminium), so it's only the plastic nut that needs replacement. Their J-nuts seem to have over double life times compared to their R-nuts. Listed numbers are for J-nuts.]

If these numbers are correct, it should be possible to pay micro-dollars per stroke and have a single lead screw+nut work for 2 years between replacements (counting 1 stroke/s, a real workhorse printer). For rough reality check of these numbers, I contacted Jon at Vermont Rapid Prototyping. He reported having used the lead screw axes of his Aluminatus heavily for 2 years without degrading performance. It should be noted that his axes uses teflon covered lead screws and anti-backlash nuts. That is more expensive than the Igus examples presented above.

Quote
Kyo-89
Thompson part number SRA10-12X2.5M
...
Thompson part number XCF10-12x2.5M

Nice sourcing research. Thanks! I searched around openbuilds and found some prices you were quoted here. So avoiding having to pay for machining is important for keeping prices down. The $71 anti-backlash nut price is similar to what I've found elsewhere. Does libre anti-backlash nuts with printed parts exist? I know printed linear bearings work, so lead screw nuts should be doable...

I'm seriously considering building an Adamantine to better join forces on in this learning experience! We should have a stand-alone linear module to do isolated testing as well, guess I'll start with that.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/05/2016 12:09PM by tobben.

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

Just got a $76 quote for XCF10-12x2.5M anti-backlash nuts, with a minimum order of $500, confirming the price from Kyo-89's sourcing research.

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

Just found this thread and thought I better join in. I am considering changing my large delta to use lead screws for the axes, I have trouble with artifacts due to the relatively heavy platform and long belts (they are over 800mm center to center).

So far the most economical lead screws I have found are these: [www.aliexpress.com]

The 14mm lead looks the most likely to work, though its still quite a bit lower geared than my 20 tooth GT2 belts at the moment (14mm per revolution vs 40mm per revolution). I had hoped to find something with at least a 20mm lead, but haven't found anything at a feasible price point yet.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 02:55AM by C_D.

Hello, welcome to the thread!

$10 per meter, wow that's cheap.

If you rotate the lead screw instead of the lead screw, you get the chance to gear up rotations per mm. See for example this youtube video. Rotating the nut also allows using larger diameter lead screws, who generally have more mm per revolution.

I'm seeing you'll only receive standard bronze nuts. Are you going to compensate for wiggle/backlash in software or design your own anti-backlash nuts?

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

That rotating nut is an interesting concept, though not particularly applicable to a delta printer I don't think. Also, I'm not sure how its 'easier' to gear it like that, you can just as easily put a gear on the end of the lead screw and you don't have to deal with getting your nut to rotate on bearings.

As for backlash, I haven't really got that far with my design, If I decide to go ahead I will probably get my lead screws here first so I can have a play with them and get a feel for the gearing and how everything is going to fit together.

Sorry for the slow response guys, been busy with work and my cnc build


Nice work on the life span numbers of the nuts. Price is one of the biggest hurdles I have encountered when looking into lead screw options to get the quality and speed we are looking for you end up with a costly custom option or one with a minimum order like you were quoted. I have seen a few versions of a home brew anti backlash nut. However I have never seen one printed. Might make for a interesting experiment!

That would be awesome if you were to join in with us and build a Adamantine printer. I just placed a order that should bring the last few tidbits I need to finish up mine as originally designed.. I am also mid way through the redesign of the Z-axis to use 8mm x 1mm pitch single start lead screws with a single Z-axis motor removing the need to constantly level the bed due to out of sync z motors. As well as incorporating anti-backlash nuts but that will be a upgrade or for v2

I like the idea of a stand-alone linear module as a test bed of sorts. A base of say a nema 17 and a linear track of 20x20 vslot with the ability to swap out nuts and screws as needed to test real world results and speeds / accuracy / repeatability . This could have lot of uses and be a great learning tool..

C_D -- A delta-six based delta is on the horizon for me here soon. what delta design are you working with? Robotdigg has a 8 start 8mm dia 20mm lead leadscrew ( 450mm long nema17 combo in stock but I think they offer longer lengths on order). I have not purchased from robotdigg before but a few guys on openbuilds are using this screw and like it.

EDIT:

Nice d3d wiki page! A good read... One note of edit at D3D_Printer_Design_Process 3.1.2.2 I misspoke in my video my Fina build uses 12mm dia. 6 starts "18mm lead" 3mm pitch.. Not 25mm lead. Must have been tired when I filmed that lol not sure why I said 25mm..

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2016 02:04AM by Kyo-89.

Hi, Thanks!

I came across something puzzling today, ball screws with anti backlash nuts and machined ends for $28 each...
See Robotdigg

I've never seen ball screws this cheap, does anyone have experience with them?

Looks like I'll be building, testing and comparing linear actuators around March 8 btw

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

Low cost ball screws usually have rolled threads (if they don't say they have ground threads in big letters, they are rolled).
More info here: [www.designworldonline.com].

Those parts look like a pretty good deal considering they come with antibacklash nuts.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Hi Guys

Thought I would join in on the conversation, I currently have a Ormerod 2 I purchased 18 months ago and have spent countless hours and material trying to improve the print quality. I have recently decided to abandon my Ormerod and have been searching the web for a better solution, as the saying goes no matter how much you polish a turd it's still a turd.

I have also found a low cost ball screw from the UK it doesn't say that its ground so I will assume its rolled, but it does supply some specs and an online calculator for max rpm. I was going to use this to replace the Z axis on my Ormerod 2.
[www.zappautomation.co.uk] -Speed

I do have a question that I would like to put forward I've done some calcs for Belt vs Lead Screw using a 20T GT2 linear motion ~47mm/200 steps = 0.23mm/step half that for corexy machine = .11 mm/step vs Tr8 4 start linear motion 8mm/200 steps =0.04mm/step
please correct me if Im wrong but to achieve a positional accuracy of less than 0.1mm you would be much better of with a lead screw?

question 2 if you want to build a ball/lead screw 3D printer with a cartesian print head, this would require the X axis motor mounted to the carriage increasing the weight, would you use two screws for the Y axis? or is that over complicating the system.

1) You're going to use micro-stepping to drive the axes whether you use a belt or lead screw, so either will provide more than enough resolution. That said, if you want to print fast like so many people seem to want to do, the lead screw will be slower.
2) I have a Stratasys Cartesian XY mechanism with a NEMA-23 motor on the extruder carriage. It uses a single motor to drive the Y axis by running rods and pulleys to both sides of the Y axis.



If I were going to drive the Y axis with screws, I'd use two, just replacing the belts. I would use a single motor to ensure that they remain in sync at all times.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Quote
WKM
Hi Guys

Thought I would join in on the conversation, I currently have a Ormerod 2 I purchased 18 months ago and have spent countless hours and material trying to improve the print quality. I have recently decided to abandon my Ormerod and have been searching the web for a better solution, as the saying goes no matter how much you polish a turd it's still a turd.

I have also found a low cost ball screw from the UK it doesn't say that its ground so I will assume its rolled, but it does supply some specs and an online calculator for max rpm. I was going to use this to replace the Z axis on my Ormerod 2.
[www.zappautomation.co.uk] -Speed

I do have a question that I would like to put forward I've done some calcs for Belt vs Lead Screw using a 20T GT2 linear motion ~47mm/200 steps = 0.23mm/step half that for corexy machine = .11 mm/step vs Tr8 4 start linear motion 8mm/200 steps =0.04mm/step
please correct me if Im wrong but to achieve a positional accuracy of less than 0.1mm you would be much better of with a lead screw?

question 2 if you want to build a ball/lead screw 3D printer with a cartesian print head, this would require the X axis motor mounted to the carriage increasing the weight, would you use two screws for the Y axis? or is that over complicating the system.

What makes you think that using leadscrews will avoid whatever problems you are having with the Ormerod 2? That would only be the case if you have a loose belt or loose pulley that you haven't fixed.

Have you asked for help on the Ormerod forum? Many of us get good prints from our Ormerods.

I think leadscrews for X and Y axes are mostly of benefit on very large printers for which belts would be very long.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks for the designworld link, very interesting reading!

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

Quote
dc42


What makes you think that using leadscrews will avoid whatever problems you are having with the Ormerod 2? That would only be the case if you have a loose belt or loose pulley that you haven't fixed.

Have you asked for help on the Ormerod forum? Many of us get good prints from our Ormerods.

I think leadscrews for X and Y axes are mostly of benefit on very large printers for which belts would be very long.

Indeed, I too am puzzled by this approach.
May be I have missed something but nowhere can I see any valid justification for the use of ball lead screws on these machines !

Quote
MKSA
May be I have missed something but nowhere can I see any valid justification for the use of ball lead screws on these machines !

I don't know where you've looked or what you find to be valid, but here's a random selection of reasons for lead screw- and ball screw usage on RepRaps

• Less ringing
• Lower unique part count
• The learning experience

The availability of aggressively threaded rods has increased a great deal lately, so I'm exploring components that I didn't know existed before. I'm also intrigued by the challenge of printing anti backlash nuts myself, saving $70 on each.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2016 04:59AM by tobben.

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

I need to change my x y to minimum of 4 starts, but since I had extra single start I tho I give it a try, but it will take forever to print anything




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/02/2016 06:06PM by deaconfrost.

Using only single starts is super interesting as an experiment! I really wonder just how slow the printer gets and how pushable that limit is. Even if multi-start is clearly the way to go, I think arranging extreme cases like this can speed up learning alot. Looking forward to your reports about it.

Nice looking printer by the way. Judging by the amount of orange parts, it looks like you're already pretty used to long print jobs.

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

Thanks tobben, yea I'm very used to long print job, the big top corners took just under 19hrs to print on the i3, I've also made x motor mount and idler with z axis 10mm leadscrew thread built in, still working perfect with no backlash since about 4 months ago I think, if not longer, I made the i3 leadscrew upgrade with PLA, since the z axis has much less movement I was too worry about the pla melt away or eaten by the leadscrew.

The X Y speed on the bigger printer is extremely slow and you can't really push it much, I'm using Nema 17 48mm long motor, it might work better if I redesign the X Y motor mount and add 2 gears to it to bring up the torque it should work well, but that just a tho, maybe different in reality

Quote
deaconfrost
I need to change my x y to minimum of 4 starts, but since I had extra single start I tho I give it a try, but it will take forever to print anything

I am a bit puzzled. Does you Y motor moves the X carriage and the X moves the Y carriage ?

Quote
deaconfrost
I made the i3 leadscrew upgrade with PLA, since the z axis has much less movement I was too worry about the pla melt away or eaten by the leadscrew.

Did you use PLA for the Z-nut? Cool! That saves a machined part and maybe even some money

At what speed does the XY axes of the big printer top out? 30 mm/s or faster? How long is the travel per revolution on the big printers XY axes?

Quote
deaconfrost
I'm using Nema 17 48mm long motor, it might work better if I redesign the X Y motor mount and add 2 gears to it to bring up the torque it should work well, but that just a tho, maybe different in reality

Would be interesting to see how gears works out. Play in gearing mechanism might get noticeable and the higher rotational speeds might affect the wear on the nut...

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

Quote
MKSA

Quote
deaconfrost
I need to change my x y to minimum of 4 starts, but since I had extra single start I tho I give it a try, but it will take forever to print anything

I am a bit puzzled. Does you Y motor moves the X carriage and the X moves the Y carriage ?

The X motor is moving the hotend on the X axis and the Y motor is driving the hotend on the Y axis maybe confusing because both motors are fitted in slider

Quote
tobben

Quote
deaconfrost
I made the i3 leadscrew upgrade with PLA, since the z axis has much less movement I was too worry about the pla melt away or eaten by the leadscrew.

Did you use PLA for the Z-nut? Cool! That saves a machined part and maybe even some money

At what speed does the XY axes of the big printer top out? 30 mm/s or faster? How long is the travel per revolution on the big printers XY axes?

Quote
deaconfrost
I'm using Nema 17 48mm long motor, it might work better if I redesign the X Y motor mount and add 2 gears to it to bring up the torque it should work well, but that just a tho, maybe different in reality

Would be interesting to see how gears works out. Play in gearing mechanism might get noticeable and the higher rotational speeds might affect the wear on the nut...

Yep pla works perfect for the z Nut and no backlash.

As it is the printer tops out at around 25mm/s to 30mm/s I don't think it go any faster with 1 start.

OK, it is like the Ultimaker then ? Only the head moves but not the other carriage.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/04/2016 06:59AM by MKSA.

Quote
deaconfrost
As it is the printer tops out at around 25mm/s to 30mm/s I don't think it go any faster with 1 start.

Is it mid-band resonance that limits the speed? (would look like these videos: [1], [2], [3]).

BTW, found a video showing anti-resonant drivers + rotating the nut: [4] The cheapest anti-resonance stepper drivers I've found are $40 each [5]. This makes cheap leadscrew + anti-resonance driver a cheaper option than branded aggressive leadscrew + cheap driver. Still not cheap though...

I wonder why anti-resonance drivers are so expensive? The problem of resonance seems easy enough to understand (mass/spring system [6], [7]) and the solution of electronic damping seems simple enough to implement at home [8].

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

Quote
tobben

Quote
deaconfrost
As it is the printer tops out at around 25mm/s to 30mm/s I don't think it go any faster with 1 start.

Is it mid-band resonance that limits the speed? (would look like these videos: [1], [2], [3]).

BTW, found a video showing anti-resonant drivers + rotating the nut: [4] The cheapest anti-resonance stepper drivers I've found are $40 each [5]. This makes cheap leadscrew + anti-resonance driver a cheaper option than branded aggressive leadscrew + cheap driver. Still not cheap though...

I wonder why anti-resonance drivers are so expensive? The problem of resonance seems easy enough to understand (mass/spring system [6], [7]) and the solution of electronic damping seems simple enough to implement at home [8].

I think that they are priced normally and it is the Chinese stuff we buy that is dirt cheap !

We're spoiled

But shouldn't a few cleverly coupled components like coils, capacitors and a resistors be able to give a normal a4988 the slight phase shift it needs, just around the resonant frequencies?

I would expect the total cost of the needed component to be < $10. Manually adjusting a potentiometer to adjust a filter to hit the right frequency bandwidth for my setup would be a low additional cost.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/04/2016 09:29AM by tobben.

---

torbjornludvigsen.com

I see at least one motor mounted in printed plastic. I hope it isn't PLA- the heat from the motor is going to soften the plastic and cause no end of problems.

I recently replaced a printed ABS motor mount from my printer with an aluminum part. When I looked at the plastic, I found that screw holes had distorted due to heat and tension from the belt. If that happens to ABS, PLA is going to be a disaster.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]