No DIN Rail Printers?

Wow, BIG!

But I must say it looks flimsy. Does it feel flimsy? I would certainly like to see some cross bracing! When you get it printing I suspect you will see artifacts from frame wobble.

Hi DLF ,

Ya, it's gotta build plate of 3ft x 3ft w/1-Meter rails. I'm glad you asked about stability - since I've been wondering myself. So I decided to put a box and ruler under the head and see just what I could pull out of it in the same position the pictures were taken in just for you question.

The Y-Axis is far more stable than the X-Axis due to the Z-Axis's rails being wide-side w/the Y-Axis.

On the Y-Axis; If I lean against the top end like a person would lean against a counter-top while talking to someone the head does move about 1mm although I had to push a little more than just a regular lean. Surprisingly, good news; since most of what I was picking up before from hand shaking wobble testing was just the carpet cushion.

The X-Axis; with the same lean will produce about 3 - 4mm.

While I never expected or even assumed a tight resolution on it what-so-ever. I figured due to its pure size the resolution wouldn't be much of a factor but I was hoping it wouldn't be so bad it would fowl outer edge to the point it affected model stability. I'm feeling pretty confident in it now. The large 3d-printed corner models/braces are actually a result of more wobble than bearable with tiny clamps.

As soon as I get the electronics on it - I'll share a picture of a print to demonstrate its resolution.

I'll just have to wait till I'm finished to see just how artifact-y it is

BREAKING NEWS !

3D printer hobbyist found dead, impaled on a prototype that collapsed while he was leaning on it for rigidity evaluation.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

Here are some updates of the very first print.

The biggest issue is the build platform isn't level at-all. I plan to use an inductive sensor to scan the build plate and adjust the Z-level constantly during print.
Does anyone know of the best approach to this?? Does Z-probe leveling in marlin have an in-print adjustment code? ( I can look this up if needed ).
May have to write some new code unless its been done already on something price efficient.



As seen - The nozzle was about 2mm off the plate during the "P"-print, the nozzle gets closer during the 'r' print
and in the 'i' print it just scratches the tape ( build plate is severely warped ).



Video
[www.youtube.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2018 07:40PM by tgit23.

If there is one thing you can't get cheap, then it's a huge printbed.

A few years ago, I read about using styrofoam as printbed. The nozzle wouldn't grind over it, but melt it's way through.
Here's the idea: use such a "levelled" styrofoam plate as base plate for your printsurface. I'd replace the nozzle with something bigger during the levelling session and take care of good ventilation.

Many thanks for suggesting that - that's rather brilliant and definitely a cheaper approach.

Not styrofoam! Styrofoam is polystyrene and will melt, stick to the nozzle, and produce toxic fumes when the hot extruder nozzle touches it.

Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam is the right stuff. It is essentially fireproof and doesn't break down at nozzle temperatures. It's also great for making thermal enclosures for printers for the same reason.

Stratasys used to print on urethane foam in some older industrial printers. I saw that at a time when I was having problems getting prints to stick to the crappy glass bed in my first printer. I started looking for a cheap alternative to the stratasys foam and found PIR.

It works, but you'll need to print on a raft or the print corners will lift a little and you'll have foam attached to the bottom of the print.

[vimeo.com]
[vimeo.com]
[vimeo.com]

More here (scroll down toward the bottom of the page)



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2018 07:13AM by the_digital_dentist.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]