what is best power-heatbed ? (i want to print PEEK)

hi,
i think i need some help
i want to buy a power heatbed that can do minimum 200 better 250 celsius !
my x-y is 200x200 so i found in ebay heat-plates with maximum 200 Watt.
do anyone know one that is more powerful ?
has anyone tryed this before and can give me info ?

also i ordered a hotend at DYZEdesign for 500 Celsius, who can me tell how and what all i have do change for use in octoprint

i know that i need another power-supply and the power-PWM-module is not the problem, but where to change what for 300 to 500 Celsius at hotend and 110 oder whatever to 200 or 250 celsius for the right information in the frontend ???

thanks a lot
wolfgang

I think that you will need to consider some kind of fancy heated chamber to be able to print that hot. The heated bed will do a good job keeping stuff near it (first 3 or 4 layers) warm, but higher up on the print there will be some crazy warping. With that said, you can get a heater rated to 230C here: https://www.omega.com/pptst/SRFR_SRFG.html.

Best of luck with your project,
Trex

... you can try with an iron sheet on an induction plate - they are good for temps between 60 and 260 degC ...

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Viktor
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Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]

You need to consider not just the heating power but also the maximum temperature that the heater can take. Forget PCB heaters. Some silicone heaters can handle up to 300C, for example [uk.rs-online.com].

For temperature measurement I recommend a PT100, PT1000 or thermocouple sensor. Thermistors are not accurate over a wide temperature range even if they are rated to the temperature you want to achieve.

Good luck with your project! It's certainly possible, I know of two companies using our electronics (Duet) in printers that print PEEK.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

To find a bed heater working @ 250° is certainly the simplest thing in this project.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

You might be able to get a heater from an old coffee maker that will get hot enough. They usually have TCOs to prevent superheating the water, but once you disable that, it may get hot enough. It will only cost $1-3 to get one at a thrift store and test it.

Otherwise, the heating coils from an electric stove should do the job.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

thanks for the links to the heat-materials
and yes, i know that i have to heat the chamber

also i know that this is not easy but i have to try this, i can build this chamber, heat it, build in a better heatbed and i ordered a hotend at dyzedesign

this week i made first steps in printing PLA and had first wrapping-problems when i changed to ABS. the printer is used an dthe kaptone-tape could not hold the material. so i changed the CAD-Constuction to more friendly for 3d-printing and it worked fine at 2-3 small pieces (13mmx13mmx11mm) and wall-thikness 0.6mm. when i printed more than 10 pieces at one time, i had wrapping when i reached the 3rd or 4th layer and the parts broken from the bed.

now i have a litte bit panic if the problems grow up with peek or other materials who need higher temperature.

who has experience with peek differences to abs ? and is the spray for heatbed better than kaptone ? what is best ? i think i need the verry-best things. if you know this please inform me.

tanks to all here in the forum, i hope i can help if others need help (i'm better in electronic)
best regards
wolfgang
(south germany)

Hi Wolfgang,

here is a German thread, discussing 260°C printing: [forums.reprap.org]

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Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]