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At what point do I go to Volcano?

Posted by Regicide 
At what point do I go to Volcano?
June 09, 2020 11:00AM
I'm designing a direct drive dual extruder printer using the E3D Chimera+ Aqua and 2 E3D Titans. I know, I know. The Chimera+ is meant for Bowden extrusion. However, I personally dislike the amount of play that a Bowden system adds, and my build is a no-compromises one. I'm using all name-brand parts and I expect to have very low backlash. I'm using 12 mm belts and E3D Super Whopper motors in a corexy arrangement, so I can handle the extra weight and still print relatively fast. I want to use slimline motors to help get the weight down as much as possible, but there's a problem. I'm planning on a 300x300x450 build envelope, and I want to keep printing times sub-week. I already have an E3D V6 and 1 Titan, but I know that with fast printing and larger nozzles, there's still a point where I cannot feed filament fast enough. So, my dilemma is this:

Is 300x300x450 a large enough envelope where Volcano hot-ends are necessary for reasonable print times, or can I stay with V6 and just get another hotend.

Also, will I be able to keep the Slimline motors with Volcano, or will I have to go to Compact and Powerful.

I'm also planning on eventually upgrading the printer to be fully enclosed and heated, as well as upgrading my thermistors to Thermocouples and my heater cartridges to high temperature cartridges. This would let me print PEEK and Ultem, as well as other high temperature exotics. I'll have to upgrade my heater blocks to plated copper, at which point I would have completely replaced my original V6. Would this be a good point to upgrade to Volcano, and would I have to upgrade my stepper motors at that point?
(I know the problems with having stepper motors in a heated build chamber, I have all motors except the extruder drivers thermally isolated, and I will use 40 mm water cooling blocks integrated into the water cooling loop to cool the extruder drivers.
Re: At what point do I go to Volcano?
August 27, 2021 04:34PM
Quote
bellarzios
Just as the title says, husband and I are wondering if we should go with a guide or not. The trail seems pretty straightforward now, so seems like we could do it ourselves. We can do lightly moderate hikes on our own. He’s worried about gasses, but I think that not having a guide means we can go at our leisure and not (snipp//snipp) on their time. Anyone have suggestions?

wrong forum?

*** EDIT *** -- removed links from the quote eye rolling smiley

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2021 04:48PM by VDX.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
VDX
Re: At what point do I go to Volcano?
August 27, 2021 04:45PM
... nope - seems to be a SEO-spammer - some meaningless links dispersed through his posts ... I'll better stop him eye rolling smiley


Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
Re: At what point do I go to Volcano?
August 27, 2021 04:49PM
My printer has a 300x300 x690(ish) envelope. I have run 0.4mm nozzles and a 1 mm nozzle in a volcano heater block to make 600+ mm tall prints.

You can make tall prints with a 0.4mm nozzle, but not single walled vases. Single wall vases (at least, asymmetrical ones) don't work well because at some Z level, the weight of the print is enough to cause the walls to flex and eventually the print fails as it flexes away from the extruder nozzle. Multiperimeter vases or prints with infill work fine, of course, but they are very slow compared to printing with a large nozzle in thick layers.

With a large nozzle, such as the 1 mm volcano nozzle I am currently using, I have printed many single walled vases over 600 mm tall with no loss of quality as Z increases. I use 1.2 mm line width and 0.6 mm layer thickness. Sometimes they even come out water tight. The prints in the photo below are approximately 180 mm diameter and 600 mm tall. Each printed in about 7.5 hours. I've printed similar size vases with a 0.4 mm nozzle, multiple walls (so the print would be strong enough to support its own weight), and 0.2 mm layers that took about 40 hours.



The single wall/thick layer print has very nice optical properties compared to a multiperimeter/thin layer vase. The thick-layered single walls disperse light horizontally but tend to beam it vertically.



Here's what it looks like with external light (R, G, and B on the wall behind the vase) looks like.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2021 05:02PM by the_digital_dentist.


Son of MegaMax 3D printer: [www.instructables.com]
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
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