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It Doesnt Work, Tried Everything

Posted by sspock 
It Doesnt Work, Tried Everything
March 31, 2011 02:26PM
What it does do:
Lights for everything go on- Green Lights Only.
Teacup firmware successfully written to the motherboard
Techzone extruder should already have a firmware on it-> I cant get it to compile on here because it cant find configuration.h, but it is *DEFINITELY* in the folder and configured., this doesnt solve the motor moving issue.

Electronics I am using:
Techzone Remix

What it doesnt do:
Nothing works involving the reprap host firmware. The thermisistor doesnt heat,. none of the motors move, nothing.

I followed the techzonecom schematic and instructions.

OS: Ubuntu 10.10
Re: It Doesnt Work, Tried Everything
March 31, 2011 03:58PM
Have you tried manually sending commands to it with hyperteminal (or similar)?
Re: It Doesnt Work, Tried Everything
March 31, 2011 04:11PM
No I havent. Where do I find docs on how to do that?

What do I do if it works but the reprap host doesnt?
What do I do if it doesnt work?

-Sarah

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2011 04:13PM by sspock.
VDX
Re: It Doesnt Work, Tried Everything
March 31, 2011 04:51PM
... for compiling the extruder firmware: - check if you have removed the ".dist" at the end of "configuration.h.dist" in the folder ... it's meant to be copied and renamed without the 'distribution'-flag ...


Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]
Re: It Doesnt Work, Tried Everything
March 31, 2011 05:28PM
The wiki has docs on G-code that details what the commands all are and what they do and what kind of response you should expect.

I believe you just need to connect to the correct serial port at the correct baud rate with any terminal program, then you can type G-code commands at it manually.
Re: It Doesnt Work, Tried Everything
March 31, 2011 05:58PM
When you say "Teacup firmware successfully written to the motherboard" Did you do that using the arduino environment? If so, there's a handy-dandy little "serial monitor" button on the ide that will open up a little window. You can type into the line on top, and the results are displayed in the bottom part of the window. All you'll have to do is make sure the baud rate is correct.

If you're using windows and not using the arduino envirmonment (I'm not sure, but I think that's somewhat unlikely. Manually setting up avr-gcc and avr-libc on windows may be quite involved.) then you'll need to use hyperterm (or some other serial terminal doodad). First thing to do is make sure it's pointing at the correct serial port - COM3 or COM4 is (I think) common for windows USB serial.

For linux, use the "func.sh" command in the teacup directory, read it to see how to use it. It's by far the easiest way to debug the firmware, as that's what it is designed and used for. Also includes a simple g-code file sending function, to print whole pieces from the command line. In the approved UNIX tradition.

Baud rate is 115200 for teacup by default, 19200 for most random arduino software, if you change it it (the arduino thing) resets the chip, and will delay 10 secs or so. For hyperterminal you may need to press the reset button manually. It should give a "start\nok" sequence when it starts up, so look for that. If you see a string of random gibberish that looks longer than that, try a faster baud rate. Try a slower baud rate if it looks shorter. If you can read it, the baud rate is right.

For help with "OK, so I see 'start' and 'ok" on the next line. Now what do I type in to test it?" see [www.reprap.org]. You want G1 for most things. "G1 X10 F100" is a command to move the X axis to position 10 mm at a feed rate of 100mm/m. In g-code each line is a command, and is processed seperately. "F100" by itself sets the feed rate for subsequent moves. "G1" by itself does nothing. "X10" by itself will be assumed to be G1, at the present feed rate, and will move to 10mm, without moving the Y or Z axises even if they're not anywhere near zero.


--
I'm building it with Baling Wire
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