Prusa i3 sgraber mod - in aluminum [group buy]

Hi everyone -

I'm a bit new here, but I've been building CNC's machines and the like for quite some time (see my posts over at Shapeoko Forums)

I've been checking out the i3, and I think it's a great build platform. I've decided to build one, but I really want to do aluminum. I've checked around quite a few shops, and found some good pricing on the plates if I get them in quantity - so I wanted to see who might be interested. All US made - found a great waterjet shop in the midwest that does high precision cutting for auto manufacturers so it should be great stuff.

I'm using this file - in 6mm aluminum.

Aluminum - Bare - $100+shipping

Aluminum - clear annodized - $140+shipping

How many interested parties do I have? Once I get a group, I'll setup a paypal and we can get it cut! I need 16 to make it worthwhile, otherwise it's too expensive.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/12/2013 10:11AM by jimmy0x52.

I would join you if I were in the states.

Just a quick question if I may, why water jet cut instead of laser cut?

Get one cut in uk from github file just remember that the holes on the github are 3.25mm ideally they should be 2mm +0.5mm/-0.00mm hoping the water jet can cut such small hole laser cutting would, hence next frame im going to get will be laser cut

kenshinjeff Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I would join you if I were in the states.
>
> Just a quick question if I may, why water jet cut
> instead of laser cut?

chris33 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Get one cut in uk from github file just remember
> that the holes on the github are 3.25mm ideally
> they should be 2mm +0.5mm/-0.00mm hoping the water
> jet can cut such small hole laser cutting would,
> hence next frame im going to get will be laser
> cut
>
> kenshinjeff Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I would join you if I were in the states.
> >
> > Just a quick question if I may, why water jet
> cut
> > instead of laser cut?



i dont live in the states laser cut can give you bad burrs not as bad as plasma but water cutting u generally get a cleaner cut

ive recently cut out an i3 frame out of 1/4" aluminum on the cnc, similiar to twelvepro's style with the back braces but modified for m10 threaded rod on the y axis. i also upgraded some of the printed parts to 1/8" aluminum parts. i am the US and can make more, would any one be interested? id be asking 200$ for the frame and 50$ for the aluminum upgrades

jimmy0x52 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> How many interested parties do I have? Once I get
> a group, I'll setup a paypal and we can get it
> cut! I need 16 to make it worthwhile, otherwise
> it's too expensive.



I'm in the US and I'm interested. I'll PM you.

Why don't you use Dibond. Its almost as strong, way lighter and a lot easier to cut and tap. Not to mention it will save you a lot of money. You also don't have to worry about de-burring. Its a win, win, win if you ask my. Its a proven material on larger and smaller machines that the prusa i3. I've also seen it used on a prusa air2 and an I3 prusa with greater results than aluminum. I hope that info helps, happy building my friends.

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Well I can get i3 frames the single plate done for £60, I have quotes higher for acrylic I be honest I havnt looked into dibond but can't find a supplier in uk for atleast 6mm thickness. I know you could use thinner material and use the frame with braces I suppose but thats more cost due to more profiles cut

ive recently cut out an i3 frame out of 1/4" aluminum on the cnc, similiar to twelvepro's style with the back braces but modified for m10 threaded rod on the y axis. i also upgraded some of the printed parts to 1/8" aluminum parts, the only printed parts are the x carriage, x motor bracket, x idler bearing bracket, the heated bed lm8uu holders, and the endstops. i am the US and can make more, would any one be interested? id be asking 200$ for the frame plus shipping and 50$ for the aluminum upgrades. i used the printed parts from alkarny on ebay.

Ask nopehead he uses Dibond for his mendel90 kits. He's the creator and hes on this forum. I think the dibond he uses is either 6 or 8mm and he's over in your area I think.

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The Dibond I use is 3mm with 0.3mm skin, which is plenty stiff enough for the gantry because the only forces are along the length of it. It is available thicker I believe but 3mm is the common size, with either 0.2mm or 0.3mm skin. It is a bit too soft for tapping though.

The braces on Mendel90 are not for strength, they are to ensure the axes are perfectly perpendicular.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2013 11:19AM by nophead.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

ive read about dibond, the glue used to hold the thin sheets of aluminum to the polyethylene is potentially toxic. it can cause allergic reactions,nausea, rashes and/or diarrhea. do you know the exact glue they use?

No idea, but I often spend all day routing it without having any of those symptoms so it can't be very toxic.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

my i3 documentation and pics-

[www.thingiverse.com]

Looks cool but it seems like a lil over kill. How much does it weigh and how much does it cost.

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Nm I see $250 for the frame and pieces. For that kinda money I would rather do Dibond which has close to the same strength and about $50-75 for cost. I could spend the rest of the money on important things for my reprap build and still have the easy portability. That's just my opinion though. To each there own. It just seems like an un-needed expense. I do like the look of it.

its heavy, but frame better frame rigidity = higher speeds.

I really can see nop head mendal 90 having the braces for the axis to be perpendicular, but cant why a single sheet version of the i3 out of 6mm aluminium be any less rigid then the one you made I can understand if it was made out of wood the braces stop the flex of the material. And my opinion thought the idea of reprap to make it cheaply as possible and to be able to print parts for another machine.

The regitity is there with dibond. Your not gaining anything but cost and weight. Dibond has proven regitity at a lower cost and weight.

---

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kenshinjeff Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I would join you if I were in the states.
>
> Just a quick question if I may, why water jet cut
> instead of laser cut?

Waterjet can offer different cut qualities depending on the configuration. Laser may burr, waterjet does not. Waterjet can cut thicker material. Depending on the material lazer can deform or temper the edge. Waterjet is noisy and dirty and takes more electricity to operate plus water and disposing or recycling of the water. Both processes are good for this app though waterjet is likely to be more readily available in industry thus less expensive to have pieces cut in a contract job setting. If one were starting a printer plant lazer would be a good option to investigate because of the ability to cut a wider variety of materials.

Aluminum i3 frames are very easy to cut and even in small batch can retail for around US$100. I had my first prototype com out of the waterjet on Fri and is getting a test fit to see if everything fits. In small batch, say a sq ft, AL is abour US$20 for 1/4" (roughly 6mm). The price drops dramatically in just a single 4'x8' sheet and even more with mulitple sheets and/or 1000 lb increments on a commercial scale. Dibond is more expensive but quite a bit at this point once sourcing and shipping is included. For example, my landed cost of 6061 1/4" full sheet (single sheet quantities) is about 75% the cost of a sheet of Dibond. Factor in that I can get waterjet cutting at a lower rater with faster turnaround than lazer and the reason for the material choice becomes more evident. Dibond is lighter for the same rigidity and in single pieces suitable for a frame may be less expensive and easier to source. For one or two frames depending on your cutting capability Dibond may be a viable choice but in mass production at this point AL looks to be a better option for most.

chris 33, im a seasoned newbie when it comes to 3d printing. from the labs/ Hackerspaces ive been too and makers ive talked too it seems there are 2 groups of 3d printests, people that want to build one for as cheap as possible and those who want to spend a little more money when they know the product will last a lot longer. i do agree with reprap squad about my frame being overkill, but consider this- i have a cnc machine at my job that i know how to operate, and aluminum scrap here isn't hard to come by.