My Prusa i3 Thread

Hello,

After a lot of research I have decided to go ahead and build a Prusa i3, so this is intended to be my build thread but until then I have some questions to help me identify which variant to go for and how to get the best printer out of my build.

Firstly, I am a bit confused as to which variant of i3 to go with though and there doesn't seem to be much difference between them that I can see e.g. i3 Rework, i3 Hephestos etc.

Can anyone help? I would like to have an LCD and SD card slot if that helps. And print resolution/quality is very important.

Thanks,
James
UK

I don't know about other i3 styles, but I've been quite happy with the MakerFarm kits. I started on their 8 inch i3, and later upgraded to the 8 inch i3v. It comes with an LCD with built-in SD card reader.

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MakerFarm 8" Prusa i3v
RAMPS 1.4
0.4mm E3D v6 for 1.75mm

Our first i3 build was the original "vanilla". We used a laser cut plywood frame (design by Shane Graber)
Scratch build and not a kit so we could ensure the parts that matter like the hot-end and heated bed were quality (not saying a kit has inferior parts)
Bought the printed parts off ebay. The things we didn't like/changed were:
- The Y and Z end-stop mounts - used [www.thingiverse.com] and [www.thingiverse.com]
- No tensioners for x and y belts - though so far not really an issue and designs can be found on thingiverse.
- No fan mount for the nozzle (or rather we couldn't figure out how the piece fit)

Our next build is a "rework". We had to modify the laser cut frame design to fit 10mm threaded rod vs the 8mm the vanilla uses.
Though if you use a water jet cut alloy frame it should be exactly the same
Has the Y-tensioner, fan mount/shroud for the nozzle. The printed parts are a little beefier too.
Obviously printed our own parts this time but lots of rework parts on ebay.

We used a .35mm J-head from Makerfarm, (uses 3mm filament). Quality heated bed - read the wiki for what to look for.
Used RAMPS 1.4, Marlin firmware, print from SD card via LCD screen.

Hope this helps
Steve

Thanks AbuMaia. I think I will be sourcing the components myself as opposed to getting a kit. I have seen lots of reviews of the MakerFarm kits, they are obviously a very popular option. How are you finding the E3D v6? That will be the hotend I go with I think. Do you (or anyone else) know how easy it is to print NinjaFlex with it? Does it require any additional hardware?

Thanks Steve, a very informative post. What made you go for the Rework over the others available? The Hephestos quotes a 60 micron print resolution, is that something unique to that variant or common to all i3's? Also, have you got a genuine Arduino Mega 2560 or one of the numerous copies available. Are there any pros/cons with genuine vs copy?

Thanks,
James
UK

Ill chime in with stating im another Makerfarm user and I love mine. Simple and easy compared to sourcing your own stuff.
I have the older 8" i3 with rods and linear bearings.

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xxJaRxx

Thanks Steve, a very informative post. What made you go for the Rework over the others available? The Hephestos quotes a 60 micron print resolution, is that something unique to that variant or common to all i3's? Also, have you got a genuine Arduino Mega 2560 or one of the numerous copies available. Are there any pros/cons with genuine vs copy?

Thanks,
James
UK

Hey James

At the time we were researching the i3 variations our local hackspace's 3d printers weren't working so we had to source the printed parts off ebay - the reworks seemed the most popular available, then the "vanilla". I did the build with a friend as a shared project and the idea was to build/learn with a shared printer, find out what we liked and didn't like, then build one each using the first one to print the parts for the next two - then sell the original one.

We usually print at 200 or 250 microns and haven't tried anything lower than that. Printing at 60 microns would take forever even for the smallest part.
A quick look with Cura shows a single Y-Corner printed at 40 mm/sec at 250 microns - 41 minutes, at 100 microns - 1 hour 38 minutes, at 60 microns - 2 hours 42 minutes (.75 top/bottom thickness, 1mm shell thickness, 30% infill). At 200 microns we get great prints.

We use the Arduico mega clone. I think any Arduino you buy out of China will be a clone.

Steve

Quote
xxJaRxx
Thanks AbuMaia. I think I will be sourcing the components myself as opposed to getting a kit. I have seen lots of reviews of the MakerFarm kits, they are obviously a very popular option. How are you finding the E3D v6? That will be the hotend I go with I think. Do you (or anyone else) know how easy it is to print NinjaFlex with it? Does it require any additional hardware?

I'm loving the E3D v6 so far, I've had zero trouble with it. I have never used NinjaFlex though, so I can't say anything about it. I've only run 1.75mm PLA and ABS through mine with no clogs or jams.

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MakerFarm 8" Prusa i3v
RAMPS 1.4
0.4mm E3D v6 for 1.75mm