Possible to use sgraber's lasercut frame with Rework parts?

I've been looking to build a new printer, and have more or less narrowed it down to the Prusa i3. My initial thought was to go with the Rework version, but the lack of certainty (on my part) of exactly which frame DXF file to use turned me off. In addition, I got to thinking about the issue of (potential) stability issues--and that led me to the lasercut frame by sgraber.

Given that I can quickly buy such a frame, or even lasercut one locally, I think that makes the most sense to me. However, I'm a bit confused as to which set of printed parts and which set of threaded and smooth rods to use. That's why I'm looking at a hybrid of the LC frame and the Rework parts. Since there's a good bill of materials for the Rework on the wiki, and since I can even buy a rod kit on eBay, it's really appealing.

So the question is, can I make use of an sgraber lasercut frame, and do all the rest with Rework rods and printed parts? If so, how long should one of the M10 threaded rods be--to substitute out one of the 210mm length ones--to form the crossbar in the back?

And if I can't use the Rework parts, exactly *which* rods and printed parts should I be using?

Many thanks!

If you are using the regular sgraber wooden frame you can use the vanilla single plate parts ( the original Pruas i3 that uses M8 cross rods). The rear upper rod needs to be at least 320 mm. The rest is the same. You'll need M3 x 25 screws and nuts to attache the frame to the rear supports. A 10-32 x 1" works as well.

I sell an sgraber style melamine frame for a Rework. It's easy to cut, sources the Rework version are here [github.com] ebay listing is here [www.ebay.com] I provide 360 mm upper rear cross rods with those kits but it could be 340 mm and work just as well.

You can cut it with a 60 watt CO2 laser or a CNC router. I think laser is the best way to go if have access to one. You'll need a 16" x 16" piece for the main frame and print bed (they are nested) and an 16" x 12" piece for the uprights. Both uprights are cut from that same piece. Thickness of 1/4" melamine or birch works well.

The difference in the frames are the rear slots on the uprights. On a Rework there are M10 rods and that changed the centerline of the cross rods so the slot is a bit higher and cut a bit wider. Either frame could be made to work by cutting the slots in the uprights where the rods mount.

Thanks, vegasloki -- this is exactly the information I needed. Indeed, I actually had your frame on my eBay watch list.

That said, I don't see a rod kit in your eBay store that has the longer upper rear cross rod; all of them seem to have four cross rods of equal length. Am I missing something?

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carl67lp
Thanks, vegasloki -- this is exactly the information I needed. Indeed, I actually had your frame on my eBay watch list.

That said, I don't see a rod kit in your eBay store that has the longer upper rear cross rod; all of them seem to have four cross rods of equal length. Am I missing something?

I don't have a separate listing though putting one up is a good idea, thanks!. Get a Rework rod set and let me know you need the sgraber type cuts.

The sgraber style frame is a great value and easy to make particularly in a maker/hacker space. The 1/4" melamine is a bit harder to find smaller than a full sheet but plenty of places online have good 6mm Baltic birch in smaller pieces. When we cut them on a Universal, Epilog or Trotec the stock settings for the material worked well. For a Full Spectrum on the 90 watt it's 100% power, 80% speed with five passes just to be safe and do the mounting holes for the electronics on another layer, 3 passes so you don't burn them.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/18/2014 08:33PM by vegasloki.

I'm "measuring" the cavities for threaded rods in the sgraber frame pdf file. The ones that house the 380mm rods are 10mm, but the "rear support" ones are 8mm, but the rods are 10mm. Is that ok? Do I just file/sand the frame a little bit or what?

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vegasloki

The difference in the frames are the rear slots on the uprights. On a Rework there are M10 rods and that changed the centerline of the cross rods so the slot is a bit higher and cut a bit wider. Either frame could be made to work by cutting the slots in the uprights where the rods mount.

14296095540_56ce472bc6.jpg

I read it again, slowly, and found the answer I needed. Has anyone got a pdf of the "rework" sgraber frame? On your github there's DXf, but my laserguy somehow wants a pdf/ai.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 10:53AM by peroz.

Me again... Cant't even get the DXF from github to convert it to pdf.
Can someone tell me how to download the file from github?

Edit: Clicked on raw, coppied, pasted to notepad, saved as dxf, openned in librecad.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2015 04:18AM by peroz.