Can you run with no end stops?

I'm ready to start printing with the reprap I just built but I don't have end stops.

So far while playing with the machine and the host software it seems like they are required.

Is there a way to run it with out them?


-Dime

You can do it with Repsnapper as long as you remove the "home" commands out of the generated g-code..It not hard at all...piece of cake!

Just edit the firmware to disable the endstops.
In configuration.h :
#define ENDSTOPS_MIN_ENABLED 0
#define ENDSTOPS_MAX_ENABLED 0

Or you could hook up a switch as a mechanical endstop.

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

I edited the config file. but the host software would not allow the machine to move in the negative direction.

Did you recompile the firmware and upload it to the motherboard?

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

I'm still waiting on a replacement endstop and tried this. It still tried to go home

Nudel Wrote:
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> Just edit the firmware to disable the endstops.
> In configuration.h :
> #define ENDSTOPS_MIN_ENABLED 0
> #define ENDSTOPS_MAX_ENABLED 0
>
> Or you could hook up a switch as a mechanical
> endstop.

Yes, it won't prevent you from sending a home gcode. The disabling of the endstops in the firmware means it will be able to move -z even though there is no endstop connected.
As DanielG said, it's easy to remove the homing gcodes from repsnapper.

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

How would do a manual home then? I tried moving all the axis close to home postion before turing the machine on. But these seems very inefficient and cumbersome.



-Dime

That would be one way to do it. When I level the bed (by rolling a piece of 8mm smooth rod under the nozzle, great idea by nophead) I prefer to do it with power off. To make z adjustment easier, I have extended one of the z leadscrews and locked some nuts on it. Thus I'm able to manually move the gantry with a spanner (or a power drill if I'm in a hurry).

Of course you can also home manually by using the jog buttons in the host software, which you might prefer.

It's not terribly important to get the homing for x and y just right unless you intend to build on the whole tray. The z axis is important though.

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

Quote

How would do a manual home then?

Move the machine by sending GCode manually to where you want to Home point to be, then press the reset button on the controller. Pressing reset makes all position counters go back to zero.

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY

Nudel Wrote:
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> That would be one way to do it. When I level the
> bed (by rolling a piece of 8mm smooth rod under
> the nozzle, great idea by nophead) I prefer to do

Yo Nudel

Can you elaborate on this or perhaps a link to an elaboration?

Cheers

AgeingHippy Wrote:
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> Can you elaborate on this or perhaps a link to an
> elaboration?

Sure! Instead of levelling the bed with the nozzle at the z home position and (try to) measure a tiny distance evenly, instead move the nozzle above the bed to the height where you can just roll a piece of your favourite smooth rod (8mm pieces are abundant after a Mendel build) under the tip.

This way you avoid the risk of running the nozzle into the bed surface. And if you use a long (I use 10cm) piece of smooth rod you also get a more even measurement if the bed is a tiny bit uneven or bumpy. Also, I find it much, much faster to do it this way, and thus I tend to check the measurement more often.

Just be sure to remove any jagged edges from cutting the rod, to ensure it'll roll smooth.

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

Nudel Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> AgeingHippy Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Can you elaborate on this or perhaps a link to
> an
> > elaboration?
>
> Sure! Instead of levelling the bed with the nozzle
> at the z home position and (try to) measure a tiny
> distance evenly, instead move the nozzle above the
> bed to the height where you can just roll a piece
> of your favourite smooth rod (8mm pieces are
> abundant after a Mendel build) under the tip.
>
> This way you avoid the risk of running the nozzle
> into the bed surface. And if you use a long (I use
> 10cm) piece of smooth rod you also get a more even
> measurement if the bed is a tiny bit uneven or
> bumpy. Also, I find it much, much faster to do it
> this way, and thus I tend to check the measurement
> more often.
>
> Just be sure to remove any jagged edges from
> cutting the rod, to ensure it'll roll smooth.


Nice one Nudel. Perhaps this should be placed on the wiki Mendel_squaring_axes page?

hello. if you manually home, and want the position to stay in any controller software, just send the following command in gcode
to the first line of code.

G92 X0 Y0 Z0.

what you are doing is zeroing the system to tell it that the location you are at is zero.

so in your build files in skienforge, add this line if it does not exist in alterations file for start.gcode or start.txt

this way even if you forget to home the system, no thrashing or bending will occur because when you run your gcode it automatically zeros.

also a quick tip about skienforge and windows users. when you edit use notepad++ (yes those ++) are part of the name. it is a free program, that has a feature in the edit menu to make it UNIX compatible text. otherwise if you have LF and CR for your line returns, skienforge throws a terrible tantrum.