FunBot a accidentally created reprap mini printer

I only wanted to test printed bushings I found on thingiverse as many people say that they work great.
And I ended up with a mini printer that uses 10 mm wather pipes and 10 mm bushings printed attached to the larger parts for easy assembly.
its early! its rough! its done for fun! and iam slow to update
Will be released as soon as I have finetuned the parts from its rough state.

[youtu.be]

Sorry for the adds I added them when I got unemployed.



First ever print with it to show that it actually works

[youtu.be]

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2014 09:42AM by Cliff Mellangård.

That’s one sweet looking printer ! I like it Very elegant

Thanks! it cost me a lot of pain and money to get here and a whole bunch of failed builds
I wanted to contribute with something to the reprap community and most people seam to focus on expensive and advanced models so I went the other way
All files will be released soon but I nead to test the newly created boom and design changes before so I know everything is ok.
The latest progress can be found here ....
[www.youtube.com]

Anyone have a suggestion for the cheapest type of controller board or boards for a printer like this with a single extruder and no heat bed?
I have looked some on tensylu.
[reprap.org]
As it nead to be a board that can be bought at a low price as possible.
I currently use ramps and mega.

Nice job. I like it.

First beta upload on thingiverse.
its in beta stages and will take some time until all is there.
[www.thingiverse.com]

Started to spread the files and create the pages now.
[reprap.org]
[www.thingiverse.com]

The reprap wiki is pretty blank right now and created so I can fill it up with wath is neaded.

if the build guide is followed so will you end up with this.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/07/2014 07:02AM by Cliff Mellangård.

Cliff, I'm going to try building one of these. I'm going to use 3/8 bronze bushings with a printed casing to match a lmu10 bearings. What do you think about using 3/8" aluminum tubes that have about 1mm wall thickness?

Great its always fun when people build your stuff
But my design have changed alot and check the thing page instead for the latest files


Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2015 12:16PM by Cliff Mellangård.

Its very cool. Amazing

Thanks

I've got the 3/8" bronze bushings ordered. I will be building with 3/8" rods/tubes. Ordered 12" Stainless rods for the Z axis and 12" Aluminum tubes for the X and Y. First couple parts printed. I plan to use a Bowden extruder so weight will be lighter on those axis.





More tonight...

Nice
I haven't got to the Bowden part so far as I got my hand full with the basic updates on the design
But I also plan a Bowden version in a later stage
So share any Bowden extras you make on the thing page as a remix

Finally got my 3/8" bronze bushings and rods in from Servocity. I printed out the bushing holder and did a test fit. Pretty good... I'm using 12"x3/8" Stainless rods for the Z axis, and 12"x3/8" aluminum tubes for the X and Y axis. If the tubes don't work out I'll get some more rods.

Intresting looks very nice and could you fill me in on wath type of bushings and where to get them ????
And maybe provide the housings you use as a remix later on
Looks nice mike

I'm also in the process of printing the parts for this printer. If it turns into a build I will definitely post photos.

---

-David

Find me online at:
Thingiverse
Instructables.com
LinkedIn
Facebook

Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net

I got the bushings from Servocity.com I got the 3/4" length ones. I use one per holder. I'll post up the stl when I do the remix, but here's the OpenSCAD code I used which worked well printing on a Davinci 1.0a in ABS. You may need to change it a bit for your printer.

difference() {
cylinder(h=30, r=9.595);
translate([0, 0, -50])	cylinder(h=120, r=6.63);

}

Adding STL for bushing holder.
bushingbearingv3.stl

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2015 05:17PM by madmike8.

Thanks mike I will check that as it looks intresting

Quote
MindRealm
I'm also in the process of printing the parts for this printer. If it turns into a build I will definitely post photos.

Cool! and please report any issues you might have with the build as I fund and design on a limited budget so there could be flaws and mistakes
I only wanted to design a cheap simple reprap that still looks cool
I so far have 2 working ones that gives pretty good prints for the money and effort that is neaded on the build.
My biggest issues are more or less to finetune the printed bushings as the igus ones from thingiverse do create print artefacts at some stages due to the fact that they seam to not slide as softly always .
I have a brand new bushing I have designed my self that will be released as soon as I see that they are actually that much better that I belive.
they are specificly created for the funbot to be solid and slide softly even when they are fitted tight on the rods.

Mike the z carriage is upside down so you know it as the belt should go on the back of the rods

Quote
Cliff Mellangård
Mike the z carriage is upside down so you know it as the belt should go on the back of the rods

LOL, I didn't catch that... But I was mainly trying to see how well the bushings work. I'm not sure how well the aluminum tubes are going to work, but I'm going to give them a try. The stainless rods work great with the bushings.

Cliff I like your design. I was looking for a small 3d printer to use in my office at work, and use PLA only. I was either going to make a Tantalus or Regpye's Smartrap until I looked at yours and found 3/8" bronze bushings.

So, far everything I've printed has fit properly. I just have the cable parts and end stop holders left to print. I need to cut and drill my board for the base. I'll also need to order the long M3 screws for mounting the steppers. I think I have most of the rest of the hardware. Still trying to decide on which extruder to use, and how to mount it.


Mindrealm, do you plan on building a 10mm version or a 3/8" version?

Probably going to go with 3/8" due to easy sourcing here (US) compared to 10mm. Although I may actually print all 10mm, and use printed 10mm bearings with 5/16" rods. Decisions, decisions...

---

-David

Find me online at:
Thingiverse
Instructables.com
LinkedIn
Facebook

Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net

Here is a video I just uploaded about my own design on a bushing for the funbot
There will be 5 size versions wher the us 3/8 is the smallest and first
I create them in 5 sizes because of the variations on how printers do them so one of the sizes should work for some one
I my self use the funbush eu Large wich is the second largest and used in the video
[www.youtube.com]

I have adapted the entire design to work with us 3/8 dimensions and European 10 mm


Great to see you guys building it and talking about it
Its the largest credit I can get for my work
The ads on youtube don't do much as I earn 2-3 $ a month and the development costs a lot more per month
But who cares about money when its so much fun tinkering

The first us bushing have a inner dimension of 10 mm that will decrease to to 9.7-9.8 depending on the printer that prints them and slide very well on us pipes and then do the inner dimension simply increase by 0.2 mm to be printable on most machines and nozzle sizes on the other versions
Wath I know so is us standard 3/8 = 9.6 mm ??

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2015 04:00PM by Cliff Mellangård.

Cliff if I decide to use stainless rods on the X axis, do you think the far end will need to be supported? Maybe like a crane with a tower on the Z carriage and a wire over it to the X end. Maybe a turnbuckle to adjust support?

Oh, btw forgot to mention I really liked the extruder plate idea. If I can figure out how to make it safe, I might add a laser at some point.

I haven't had the time to update this small thing but you can regulate the far ends height and stiffness with 2 8 mm long m3 screws in the coming update and is easy to add to already printed parts
I will show where to put them and upload the new fixed z carriage parts soon this week
This should make it work well with heavier pipes also
Have to go to bed now as I start to work in 5 hours
The factory called me back to work a few days this week and I nead all the extra money I can get there

Work Brother Work... Night Cliff..

Slight change up in my plans... I found a 12mm thick x 293mm x 303mm aluminum plate in my shop. Think I'm going to use it for my base plate. Then I will use 8" x 8" x 1/8" aluminum plates for the bed.

That's the deluxe version and the best solution if you have the parts.
aluminium is a lot better then wood and acrylic in many ways
Feed me some images when you have don the plate

I printed out two Bowden extruders. The first one Link is for a Mk8 gear. When I couldn't find my Mk8 gear, I printed this one Link for a Mk7 gear. Now I just have to figure out mounting.

Mk8

Mk7

I actually have some early ideas about mounting a similar extruder side by side with the x carriage motor so the spool holder still can be used but I haven't got it in to a model so far
This way so should the 2 motors counter weight the hotend also and still make a very compact printer
I have many ideas but so little time and money sadly

Cliff, Your idea is interesting... I'll have to think on it... I was thinking a plate that bolts over/under the Spool Holder plates. It would stick out toward the front and allow the extruder to mount in the same plane as the hotend. That way the bowden tube isn't twisting as much.