FLSUN I3 kit review

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dolon
How to set the limit switch positions.
How to confirm motors are spinning the right way and avoid crashes.
What software to upload first etc.
Any advice much appreciated.

well, you can always leave the belts off the x and y, then try running "Home" on X and Y in turn, and manually press the limit switch. but even before you do that you can use M119 to report the switch status.

the z axis you'll either have to part-assemble (don't put the x-assembly on until you've tested the z-motors and z-switch) or just be prepared to hit the power on/off switch before you get a head-crash. that's the main thing: have one hand hovering over the power switch, ok?

you should get a copy of Printrun (pronterface) as it contains a really clear UI (which is often replicated in other programs, such as Cura 21 from lulzbot). pronterface (and skeinforge) is old but to be honest after using other software i just... argh so many problems with them i finally came back full-circle to it. perhaps you could consider the same thing, start with e.g. Cura 21 "because it looks simple" then when you hit the limitations you'll find you know a bit more by then so can jump in to pronterface and skeinforge without going completely bonkers

don't go near slic3r. just.... don't.

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lkcl

well, you can always leave the belts off the x and y, then try running "Home" on X and Y in turn, and manually press the limit switch. .

Yeah, just watched YouTube video on an Anet A8 assembly. The guy does an Electronics dry run with all the devices plugged into the motherboard.
I need to make sure the motors are spinning correctly, to suit the Y- axis belt assembly.
Thanks, for the tip on Printrun. Will check it out. Cant wait for my delivery.

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dolon

Thanks, for the tip on Printrun. Will check it out. Cant wait for my delivery.

y'know... i still get these zen moments, after 4 maybe 5 years now when i got my mendel90, where i am just astounded that we (ordinary humans) now have the ability to design something on a computer and then... actually have a physical version of it, in our hands, and it doesn't cost us fortune and nobody tells us "you can't do that". it's... just.... so stunningly empowering and a huge responsibility as well, it just knocks me sideways. then i remember i have to fix yet another bit of faulty design work and go "aw gawd here we go..."

Is was is being tested and discussed here is the same flsun as shown here:

[www.aliexpress.com]


If so could someone link me a working, tested configure.h and indicate what version of Marlin it applies to ( apparently they have not maintained compatibility and older configs no longer work with more recent Marlin versions. )

Shame that the chinese supplier can't manage to provide something which works once assembled.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/18/2017 09:08AM by wrapperz.

For that money, I'd jump to a Tevo Tornado. Can be had for $309.

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number40fan
For that money, I'd jump to a Tevo Tornado. Can be had for $309.

plus shipping? we have quite a tale of nightmare parts to tell on this one - i think the only original parts left is the metal frame and the NEMA17s! there's a bit about it here [www.crowdsupply.com] have to go, packing up to cross the border where maybe we will not get stopped for carrying "cargo" into china...

Quote
wrapperz
Is was is being tested and discussed here is the same flsun as shown here:

[www.aliexpress.com]


If so could someone link me a working, tested configure.h and indicate what version of Marlin it applies to ( apparently they have not maintained compatibility and older configs no longer work with more recent Marlin versions. )

Shame that the chinese supplier can't manage to provide something which works once assembled.

they're f*****g hopeless. i replaced 40% of the parts with libre GPLv3+ licensed designs (at the link in the first post), and plan to do the rest as well. when buying the taobao clone i said to them not to bother shipping the controller, because i knew that i would only have to replace whatever s*** they'd supplied.

the point of the entire exercise here is to be IN CHINA to get LOWER COST PARTS, but actually CHECKING THE QUALITY, and SUPPLYING PEOPLE WITH 100% LIBRE SOURCE.

so best of both worlds so that people can buy lower cost but also MAINTAIN THEIR PRINTERS.

Well I got it working after wasting a lot of time. The problem was the fact that they supply a broken ( or badly configured ) std Marlin version . When I tried the autolevel "AC" version it worked !

Obviously they do not even test the software they send with the printer.

I figured it would be wise to run std Marlin and worry about the AC feature once it was build and tested. Apparently they assume that no one will use the std version and do make sure it actually works !

The other problem was the mate's Windoze machine was full of crap and the drivers would not install correctly. Having got the printer working on Linux, we tried a cleaner Windoze machine and the driver problem disappeared.

I agree the printer h/w looks like it has been seriously under-engineered. Not at all rigid or stable but he did not ask my opinion before buying, he was so confident he had scored a great deal ! You get what you pay for.

I just got and assembled my FLSun i3 plus auto. Surprise surprise after about 30 minutes of the bed being at 60 degrees the acrylic y axis carriage started to sag.

I am trying to find an aluminium carriage to fit the 300x300mm bed but I have have no luck what so ever. Anyone know where I can buy a carriage that will fit? The holes that mount to the heat bed are spaced about 240mm

I am also going to update the rails to dual 12mm instead of the 8mm junk.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2017 10:02AM by jnsbanman.