Hello Ynothna,

here how it is in my manual and on my board (RAMPS 1.4):



On the right side there are 2 vertical motor connectors, they are for Z motors. Not the one horizontal with Z on top, where Z-switch is plugged.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2017 06:54AM by rufinus.

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rufinus
Hello Ynothna,

here how it is in my manual and on my board (RAMPS 1.4):

On the right side there are 2 vertical motor connectors, they are for Z motors. Not the one horizontal with Z on top, where Z-switch is plugged.

Hey rufinus,

My layout is definitely different:



My motors are the top connections, in order they are X,Y,Z,E0,E1. If I had another stepper driver I could use the E1 as another Z, but in the picture you can see that I had to move the stepper driver from E1 to X (took me half a day to figure out why X wasn't working...).

They're shipping me the adapter cable that was missing from my kit and I've found a place in the city that sells stepper drivers, so I'm not totally stuck, I'm just not able to make progress yet, haha. At least I know all of the pieces are working now! I was worried my board was damaged, I just didn't know what the stepper drivers were.

Here are my current improvements implemented:





I have fixed the lead screw with bearing. Shall i upload STL of the bearing holder, in case someone is interested?

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rufinus
Here are my current improvements implemented:

I have fixed the lead screw with bearing. Shall i upload STL of the bearing holder, in case someone is interested?

Sure, would be great. But did adding the bearing improved the print quality? Since the Z axis doesn't move that fast so I don't thing it would wobble! Or am I wrong?


Also no one answered me about updating the firmware on the board, is it because no one bothered to update or you guys can update your boards with no issues?

Actually, you need both improvements simultaneously. In my case the lead screw was somehow really tilted, when the extruder was in the Z=0 position, and the stepper had a problem rotating it. Greasing helped, but also bearing on top brought some improvement. Now i still want to run some calibration procedures, but will need time for it. Z-axis linear bearings are also already replaced with 45mm version.

Regarding firmware, i guess, nobody bothered yet, since it works as it is. Never touch a running system, you know
I will implement auto leveling with inductive sensor, if it works with current firmware. If not, then will bother to upgrade. My board is RAMPS 1.4 (Plus?).

Bearing holder STL is attached. It is designed for 16/5/8 bearing.

Does anyone have a model for a cooling fan attachment that fits the carriage? Or a model for a replacement carriage that is compatible with a cooling attachment? I went and printed a diicooler attachment and didn't realize it wouldn't fit, haha. I haven't been able to find a design that would work.

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Ynothna
It's a RAMPS 1.4 but I don't think it's a plus.

Yours is similar to the plus but with a different design, the original RAMPS 1.4 is not a full controller, it is just a shield board that you connect on top of an Arduino Mega board. Where as your board and mine (what is called 1.4plus) are redesigned by Chinese sellers to integrate the two boards together. It is a more efficient design in term of cost and space, but I could not find any design layout or schematics for these boards.

Here is a picture of the official RAMPS1.4:


and here is the RAMPS 1.4plus:


and I believe that 3DYMY is the company behind it but even their site is down!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2017 12:04PM by fadroid.

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rufinus
Regarding firmware, i guess, nobody bothered yet, since it works as it is. Never touch a running system, you know
I will implement auto leveling with inductive sensor, if it works with current firmware. If not, then will bother to upgrade. My board is RAMPS 1.4 (Plus?).

I agree, but sometimes it is worth it, checking the list of new features, improvements and bug fixes that have been added after version 1.0.1 (the version installed on mine) I definitely want to update to the latest one.
Check the releases after 1.0.1 and see what has been implemented in them: [github.com]


Some of the new features:
Filament Runout Sensor support. (Allow pausing the print when the printer runs out of filament, so you can feed it with a new filament and resume instead of losing the whole thing)
Filament width measurement support. (Automatically adjusts the flow rate based on the variation in the filament width)
Filament Change feature (Allow you to change the filament (e.g. to another color) while printing)

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Ynothna
Does anyone have a model for a cooling fan attachment that fits the carriage? Or a model for a replacement carriage that is compatible with a cooling attachment? I went and printed a diicooler attachment and didn't realize it wouldn't fit, haha. I haven't been able to find a design that would work.

Just received my radial fan yesterday, after measuring it, will start designing the fan adapter that fits the carriage. Will probably take me some days, but will keep you posted.

fadroid, for me interesting would be perhaps Filament width measurement support and Thermal runaway protection. But i want to have the hardware optimizations done, before i start with the software. Did you try to copy only configure.h settings, or some other files?

Coping the configuration file won't work since there are to many changes to it. But what I did was to go through the file and adjust the settings based on what is there on the older file or based on what I know about my printer parts and connections. However, all I get is an empty LCD (it just lights up with nothing on the display) and no response to the slicer applications.
But everything works again after installing the original firmware back.

It seems like as if the wiring and pinouts on this board are somehow different from the original ramps. I don't expect that to be true since it breaks the compatibility between the boards, but I also don't have the schematics for my board to confirm otherwise.

Thanks Rufinus, that would be awesome.

I'm running RC7 for Marlin if a copy of my firmware files would be helpful for anyone. I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 plus.

Hello! I have this 3d printer since september 2016. I have been printing several objects ALMOST perfect (a few problems).

The calibration cube haven't straigh cornets. I figured about X carriage + Z axis movements. It seems here we could fix together.

I don't undestand what's the end/fixing axis on the picture:



I wanna solve the carriage movement (see the diference):



I think the solution will be change the full carriage system with tensor screws and vertical position (it will be easyer to add any usual fan).

Finally I am not able to work with the SD card... Anyone succes with SD card?



Thank you!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2017 02:28PM by gaspi.

Well, I thought the picture is pretty clear - I'm fixing exactly the problem which you have pictured - protruding x-rod. It's just a piece of aluminium with M8 hole for the rod and M3 hole for the fixation screw.

Ynothna, i think your configs would be greatly appreciated, also if you don't mind explaining what have you copied from "original" config (1.0.1, if i am not mistaken).
Did you make some calibrations already?

Mine actually shipped with 1.1 RC7 because it only arrived last week. I've made minor changes to some of the settings in the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h but nothing drastic.

Marlin 1.1 RC7

Thank you Ynothna, I will try to update with you files

gaspi, with my printer I simply put a screw in the hole on the top and that was enough to keep the tension of the x axis.

For the SD card, mine works fine. What is the issue you are having with it?, did you update the firmware? Since it can be enabled and disabled from the configuration.

I also tried with screw in the hole on the top and that's not enought for the fast movemens, so the current solution is reduce speed.

About the SD card, I haven't update the firmware. When I insert the SD card, it cannot find the file created by the repeater software. I will try again and check the current firmware.

The screw in the hole on the top is not fulfilling its function, therefore you will get protruding rod --> reduced belt tension --> reduced precision + shaky X axis. So you have to install some stopper, like above. It does not have to be out of metal, it can be printed, please look on page 2 for this solution.

Did someone try to setup auto bed leveling? I'm getting "endstop hits: z" error..

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Ynothna
Mine actually shipped with 1.1 RC7 because it only arrived last week. I've made minor changes to some of the settings in the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h but nothing drastic.

Marlin 1.1 RC7

Well, it is either we have different board designs, or your configurations is not complete.
I tried your code and it didn't work but that got me encouraged to retry and configure it from scratch.

I downloaded the lasted code "1.1.0 RC8" and started the configurations based on the original code but this time I didn't enable EEPROM or SDCARD, by default the are both disabled and I have heard that enabling EEPROM when updating to very different update can cause issues because of old stored configurations not being compatible with the new firmware.

I also found and confirmed that my board "what they call ramps 1.4plus" is not compatible with the wiring of tyre original ramps 1.4.
E.g.:
- The LCD uses different pin numbers
- E0 is swapped with E1
- Hot bed heater is swapped with hotend heater

Now mine works

Wow, fadroid, can you post your configs, please?

Never mind, got my working, with eeprom enabled. Just have to figute out the z-offset for automatic leveling, and will be all set.

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rufinus
Never mind, got my working, with eeprom enabled. Just have to figute out the z-offset for automatic leveling, and will be all set.

Which leveling sensor do you have?

I bought one (before actually buying the printer lol) but never had the time to install it. So can you share the type of sensor you have and how you mounted it?

Ang here are mine latest mods:


Installed inductive sensor for automatic bed leveling.


Determined, that Y-rods are a bit loose in their nests and can also move in Y direction, when bed is changing direction, even when the fixation screws are tightened. Solution is to remove the screws and cut a slot a bit wider with metal saw. Then tighten the screws again.

Finally, got Marlin RC8 working with EEPROM and automatic bed leveling enabled. Max travels are a bit limited due to inductive sensor.
So, if you don't have ABL, then please modify configure.h correspondingly.

Marlin RC8 with ABL

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fadroid

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rufinus
Never mind, got my working, with eeprom enabled. Just have to figute out the z-offset for automatic leveling, and will be all set.

Which leveling sensor do you have?

I bought one (before actually buying the printer lol) but never had the time to install it. So can you share the type of sensor you have and how you mounted it?

Here is my sensor:

LJ12A3-4-Z/BX 3-wire NPN :

Model: LJ12A3-4-Z/BX
Diameter: 12mm
Range: 4mm
Output: NPN, 3-wire, NO
Supply Voltage: 6V DC-36V DC
Output current: 300mA

As power to sensor is 12V, output is 12 V as well, so you need a voltage divider to bring it to <5V. Then you need to disable pullups for your sensor pin and invert it logic. Have a look at my Marlin configure.h how its done.

Here is the link to STL file:
Sensor holder 12mm STL

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2017 03:32AM by rufinus.

Just ordered and received the FLSUN 3D I3 kit, bit gutted as straight away I am missing the motors and the glass panel. Thats without going through with a fine tooth comb and counting each nut and bolt. Quick glance though it seems I have everything else.

Can anyone remember what box the motors were in? OR rather what other parts they were inside with?

Thanks for any help in advance.

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MIKEYMCC
Just ordered and received the FLSUN 3D I3 kit, bit gutted as straight away I am missing the motors and the glass panel. Thats without going through with a fine tooth comb and counting each nut and bolt. Quick glance though it seems I have everything else.

Can anyone remember what box the motors were in? OR rather what other parts they were inside with?

Thanks for any help in advance.

Yikes, that's not a good box to be missing. I'm pretty sure mine had their own box. I can't remember the number on it though.

Mine didn't have a glass panel, not sure if that's an extra you can get, I don't remember seeing it on the site.

Yeah I think its one of the updates. There was no space for a separate box for motors, the box was much smaller than I though it would be to be honest.

Got it from here [www.3dprintersonlinestore.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2017 01:55PM by MIKEYMCC.

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MIKEYMCC
Yeah I think its one of the updates. There was no space for a separate box for motors, the box was much smaller than I though it would be to be honest.

Ah ok, I bought mine last month so it must have been very recent, or the company I got mine through hasn't got the update yet. Mine was smaller than I expected too, but I was only missing an adapter for the Z motors.

I think I see whats wrong I have two boxes of bearings and bolts lol Oh well at least I am doubled up on those.