Critique and opinions wanted on printer design.

Newbie on the forum here. Currently the owner of a modded org. Prusa mk2.5, but feel it's design has some limitations and want to experience more of what different hardware can do. I've been playing with different ideas for a while and have come up with a idea so far:

- Footprint of no larger than 600x600mm (currently 600x380).
- MGN12 linear rails on all axis.
- Dual synchronous belt driven x and y axis (idea borrowed from Neil Rosenberg's dash-x at openbuilds.com).
- Ultimaker style crossed gantrys with twin carbon tubes and igus JSM-1012-10 bushings (borrowed from Tech2c's Hypercube build).
- The space in the frame to the right will be used for control board (possibly SKR 1.3), LCD, PSU, bowden extruder and spool holder.
- Build area set to 300x230mm so far.
- Buildplate made of 6mm alu tooling plate with 220v silicon heater and mounted with maxwell kinematic setup (idea from Mark Rehorst).
- E3d v6 hotend with 40mm fan for the heatsink and dual 5015 radial fans for parts cooling (need to do some tests/mods beforehand to see if the dual fans will work as intended).
- Frame of 3030 extrusions and 2020 on the z axis to save a bit of weight.
- If possible to source (twin axle stepper) 0,9deg steppers on the x and y axis.

Still not certain I need the 24v PSU, 0.9deg steppers or if the dual z leadscrew will hold up in terms of stability.

The printer is still under design and the model might be a bit simplified or missing parts atm. But please fire away with suggestions, questions and corrections.

You should perhaps start with requirements -- then get parts that build to the requirements


See DD build

[drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

If I see the orange as printed parts -- those parts may be the best use of metal

I must say my CR-10 is a rock solid printer with little frustration -- just can't figure out what is important to make it a great printer?

You stated MGM linear rails on all axes -- your pictures show only z axis linear rails
why abandon linear rails on X & Y ????

The DASH X printer looks neat -- perhaps your not choosing the excellent aspects of that project

couplings -- motor to shaft can drive one crazy if not done right.


300 x 230 unusual -- look at heaters etc for standard sizes
220V heater? do you have 220VAC close to printer? Are you at ease with working with high current AC?

as it stands Frankenprinter????

Quote
Svendse9
Newbie on the forum here. Currently the owner of a modded org. Prusa mk2.5, but feel it's design has some limitations and want to experience more of what different hardware can do. I've been playing with different ideas for a while and have come up with a idea so far:

- Footprint of no larger than 600x600mm (currently 600x380).
- MGN12 linear rails on all axis.
- Dual synchronous belt driven x and y axis (idea borrowed from Neil Rosenberg's dash-x at openbuilds.com).
- Ultimaker style crossed gantrys with twin carbon tubes and igus JSM-1012-10 bushings (borrowed from Tech2c's Hypercube build).
- The space in the frame to the right will be used for control board (possibly SKR 1.3), LCD, PSU, bowden extruder and spool holder.
- Build area set to 300x230mm so far.
- Buildplate made of 6mm alu tooling plate with 220v silicon heater and mounted with maxwell kinematic setup (idea from Mark Rehorst).
- E3d v6 hotend with 40mm fan for the heatsink and dual 5015 radial fans for parts cooling (need to do some tests/mods beforehand to see if the dual fans will work as intended).
- Frame of 3030 extrusions and 2020 on the z axis to save a bit of weight.
- If possible to source (twin axle stepper) 0,9deg steppers on the x and y axis.

Still not certain I need the 24v PSU, 0.9deg steppers or if the dual z leadscrew will hold up in terms of stability.

The printer is still under design and the model might be a bit simplified or missing parts atm. But please fire away with suggestions, questions and corrections.

Thanks for the input.

I have a fairly good idea of what I achieve as far as requirements. Good print quality at decent speed and a printer that doesn't look misplaced in a living room. Buying all the parts from a quality supplier in one swoop would probably make this cost too much so I will have to rely on aliexpress, banggood etc. for most parts and upgrade subpar components after a while.

Yes, the orange parts are intended to be printed. Pre made metal parts will hog up precious space in the drive assembly and reduce the build space as one of the requirements are printer footprint size. Custom made metal brackets and parts is an option but require access to a mill and know how to use it.

I don't quite understand your question about your cr10.

The x and y drive DOES have mgn12 rails, but may be a bit a hard to see and the drive shafts might confuse some people into thinking it's used for linear motion and not just rotation. I'll add a newer rendering that perhaps shows this more clearly.

As far as the Dash-X goes he highlights the dual belt driven axis with lower inertia glassfiber driveshafts. I have opted to use steel for now as I'm worried it would require some other other way to fix the pulleys to the shaft then just set screws. The dual belt drives are present in my design.

Thanks for the input about couplings. They will only transfer tourque from the motor to the shafts and bearings close to the pulleys will bear the load from belts. Any alignment issues in the solid couplings should hopefully be minimized. Otherwise a flexible coupling might be an option.

300x230 buildplatform is not standard size, but I believe the cr10 mini uses this size. I mostly do functional prints and big platform size is not a huge necessity. My prusa with it's 210x250 have served all of my needs so far, but I designed this printer with a bit bigger volume just to futureproof it a bit. Since I'm using s 6mm alu buildplate I hope to be able to use something like a 300x200 silicon heater and the heat should spread to the edges as far as I've read. If not a custom heater with holes for the 3 point mounts would have to be sourced eventually.

220v is standard here in europe so my printer runs on 220v mains power. I've got big respect for amps, but hooking up 220v ac is really no biggie. I work with high amp 48vdc rectifiers/ups as a living and feel safer with mains power (batteries don't have an off switch when you work with them), but by all means 220vac can kill you and could catch fire if not done properly.

Frankenprinter, why????

The linear rails and rods on X, Y may over constrain the X-Y movement

The CR-10 is so simple, ---- 3D printers were max frustration until I got CR-10
300 x 300
Wish I knew what components make for frustration free printing

Coupling wobble has induced many artifacts in prints

Get the right SCR for AC bed one rated for 220 and the current your heater will pull
maype a separate switch on it --- don't rely on SCR for OFF

you didn't say much about controller?

Frankenprinter all kind of parts / design but it could dance well, putting on the Ritz
One of a kind printer not much help out there