Tutorials for first printing?

Hi.

I'm new to 3D printing. I ordered a prusa i3 from folgertech and they sent me a Kossel 2020. So I went with that, I'm at the point where it's built and calibrated as described in their manual, but the manual ends with: "now your ready to print!"

Just one problem I don't know how to print? Does anyone here know of a resource that explains in depth how to load a file and send it to print for the first time?

RepRap wiki -> Beginner's guide

Did the instructions include downloading any software? Repetier-Host, Ponterface, Skienforge, Cura?

Assuming you installed something like Repetier-Host for calibrating your printer, you can start by going to a website like thingiverse to download an *.stl file. You might try searching for some calibration prints or the ever popular 10mm cube. Personally, I just download files to my Windows Downloads directory by default and then pointed Repetier-Host at the directory so that when I click the Load button in the software, it defaults to the downloads directory and lists all of the "printable" files I have downloaded. Selecting a file should load it into your main printing window, centered on your virtual print plate.

Next you need to slice the file(s) placed onto your build plate, converting the *.stl(s) into lines of gcode that your printer will understand. I believe the default for Repetier-Host is Slic3r, but you could also default to Cura if you choose to. Different slicers will handle an object better than others. Hopefully the instructions also included how to configure their recommended slicer.

Then you just need to hit Start and watch in awe as your nozzle slams into the build plate, tries to print off the side of printer, or simply sits there and does nothing. Sucks, but it happens to us all. Makes your first successful print all the more rewarding.

The Folger docs use Pronterface. No discussion of a slicer . . .

- Tim

Not a user of Pronterface myself, sorry. Though I checked out the github documentation real quick...

Quote

When you're done setting up Printrun, you can start pronterface.py in the directory you unpacked it. Select the port name you are using from the first drop-down, select your baud rate, and hit connect. Load an STL (see the note on skeinforge below) or GCODE file, and you can upload it to SD or print it directly. The "monitor printer" function, when enabled, checks the printer state (temperatures, SD print progress) every 3 seconds. The command box recognizes all pronsole commands, but has no tabcompletion.

If you want to load stl files, you need to install a slicing program such as Slic3r and add its path to the settings. See the Slic3r readme for more details on integration.

So it sounds like you want to download Slic3r and then you can configure and use the application directly from Pronterface.

Not sure, but there also might be a Pronterface forum further down the list on the RepRap forums.

"Then you just need to hit Start and watch in awe as your nozzle slams into the build plate, tries to print off the side of printer, or simply sits there and does nothing. Sucks, but it happens to us all. Makes your first successful print all the more rewarding. "

Ya I think I got all those covered now. I've managed to problem solve most of that stuff now. Still having problems with filament oozing out where the nozzle attaches to the hotend block thing, a blob will form and then it trickles down the side of the nozzle onto the print surface, creating a large blob on my print and then every layer after that is warped out of shape because of the blob. You can see that in the pic. I just tried tightening that block thing on the thread I haven't tried printing yet to see how it turns out. Hopefully that's all it needed was a tightening.

Had a similar issue with my j-head clone before I finally gave up trying to fix it and bought an E3Dv6. Now you also have the option of the E3DLite6.

I don't recommend this without further research, but what I tried to do was take the hotend completely apart to clean it out. When putting it back together, I covered the threads between the heater block and the peek cooling fins with PTFE (plumbers tape). I then used a hot air gun to heat up the alluminum block before screwing it into the peek.

I think it worked, though it is possible I just burned out the plumbers tape and mostly filled up the gap. Still had a lot of extrusion issues after which is why I replaced the hot end.