Cherry Pi III Is Available

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maso
So if you want to, you can use my rod carriers with Andy's J-head effector and gain a bit more Z-space.

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maso
For what it's worth, I've made a design that does exactly that.

• What effect does raising the ball sockets from the carrier have if any? (I had to raise them up 5mm, so the spring wire hole clears the belt guide)
• What is the optimum angle for the sockets? (mine are currently at 45 degrees, the same as the effector)

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Pointy

• What effect does raising the ball sockets from the carrier have if any? (I had to raise them up 5mm, so the spring wire hole clears the belt guide)
• What is the optimum angle for the sockets? (mine are currently at 45 degrees, the same as the effector)

• I'm not entirely sure how raising the balls away from the carrier impacts performance. I was going to say it gets worse, because as the head approaches the outside rail the arm gets closer to vertical. But that just means the far arms need to travel more to get a given amount of lateral motion, so it might actually have better resolution out there. I think it really comes down to the math of the firmware and how good it is at adjusting for calibration, because closer pivot points means greater distortion, but I kinda think everyone writing firmware has this stuff figured out by now.
• There's no reason for the sockets to be at any angle different from the effector. Considering that the effector will always be horizontal, and that the rods are straight, any angle the sockets need to accommodate is the same for both ends. The best angle depends on your specific geometry, but all it comes down to is making sure the arm can swivel at any angle it will need without running into the socket itself. As well as keeping the socket deep enough that the ball will never pop out due to the spring tension. I chose 35 degrees for my effector and rod carrier experimentally, by swinging the existing Cherry Pi effector around and looking at where the rod and ball went, but realistically I don't think the rods sweep across enough of an angle to be much of an issue.

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Pointy

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maso
For what it's worth, I've made a design that does exactly that.

Thanks maso.

I started tweaking my design to have the rod holders at the top and it made me curious about a couple of things.

• What effect does raising the ball sockets from the carrier have if any? (I had to raise them up 5mm, so the spring wire hole clears the belt guide)
• What is the optimum angle for the sockets? (mine are currently at 45 degrees, the same as the effector)

Regards,

Les

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mrorange26
Received my new E3D clone today,All together just got to install it in my printer and calibrate.

410817145.jpg

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AndyCart
The 30 x 30 x 10 cooling fan fits to the topside of the effector between two of the metal spacers. It's held n place with a dab of Cherry Pi 'secret sauce'

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vreihen

Speaking of the CP not-so-secret sauce, has anyone tried to attach un-tapped steel bearings directly to the rods (CF or aluminum) on the non-magnetic spring setup using CA? Just curious how it would work, since I have a hundred 5/16" (7.93mm) balls left over from my attempt at Johann's recirculating ball carriages. I was thinking that an automotive brake line flaring tool might be able to create a decent contact area for the ball to be glued.....

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AndyCart

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vreihen

Speaking of the CP not-so-secret sauce, has anyone tried to attach un-tapped steel bearings directly to the rods (CF or aluminum) on the non-magnetic spring setup using CA? Just curious how it would work, since I have a hundred 5/16" (7.93mm) balls left over from my attempt at Johann's recirculating ball carriages. I was thinking that an automotive brake line flaring tool might be able to create a decent contact area for the ball to be glued.....

It maybe that all that is required is a tube with a larger, maybe 6mm, ID. As everything is held in tension by the spring the end of the tube may be a suitable 'housing' for the ball

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mrorange26
Just received my 12v mk3 heated bed.I was going to use a xbox 360 power supply to power it,Do I just connect the xbox supply on the second lot of power input connections and leave my existing 6a power supply still connected.

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AndyCart
You will also need a thermistor for the bed and a tweak to the firmware to enable it

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Pointy
The new carriages work, and I have gained 30mm with the flipped design. I also seem to be able to print via USB now, thanks to a new cable. (should always try the obvious things first)

The carriage is designed for Bosch Rexroth/Motedis aluminium extrusion, but could be tweaked for other makes. I am using the following fittings with mine....

M3 x25mm Socket Head Cap Screw & M3 Nut (Wheel tension adjustment)
M3 x 20mm Hex Head Screw & M3 Nut (Belt adjustment, If you don't have a M3 hex bolt, a normal SHCS will probably work if you glue it in place.)
4 x No 4 x 1/2" Pozi Flanged Self Tappering Screws (Fixings for rod carrier/carriage)
3 x M5 30mm Socket Low Head Cap Screw (to replace the M5 screws supplied with the mini v wheel kit)
2 x M2 x 6mm Socket Head Cap Screw (to hold the belt loops in place)

Regards,

Les