Cherry Pi III Is Available

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AndyCart
Auto calibrations can sometimes take up to 90 iterations!

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David J
Not quite a Lotus 7...

Locost

• I won't need to modify the PSU lead.
• It's built to take all the power the PSU can offer.
• I will probably be able to fit a switch to turn the PSU on and off remotely.
• I have the choice of powering the Arduino directly with 5v, rather than use the linear voltage regulator built into the Arduino/RAMPS, thus reducing heat output.

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David J
I've decided to experiment with the power input - I'm planning to use a 203W Xbox PSU to power the printer, so I've decided to take the obvious route and try to fit an Xbox power socket to match. This will have numerous advantages:

• I won't need to modify the PSU lead.
• It's built to take all the power the PSU can offer.
• I will probably be able to fit a switch to turn the PSU on and off remotely.
• I have the choice of powering the Arduino directly with 5v, rather than use the linear voltage regulator built into the Arduino/RAMPS, thus reducing heat output.

Of course, this means that I will have to build a nice enclosure to house the socket and switch (an enjoyable task) and I may have to design a PCB to keep it tidy (should also be fun).

I have ordered the socket on ebay, so watch this space!

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David J
Now that's a thought... but how would you turn it on, if the Arduino hasn't got any power?

...one of life's conundrums!

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dougal1957

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David J
Now that's a thought... but how would you turn it on, if the Arduino hasn't got any power?

...one of life's conundrums!

Ah but if you have a PC connected by USB then the Arduino does have power doesn't it?

Doug

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David J
Andy,

Back on page 2 you uploaded a configuration.h file - would that still be a good starting point for me, or have things changed?

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AndyCart
Auto calibrations can sometimes take up to 90 iterations!

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gowen
I'm using the version that came supplied on the SD card with the kit. I can't tell you the exact version at the moment.

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AndyCart
It may be worthwhile downloading the latest version from Rich Cattell's Githib, link above.

//Diagonal Rod Adjustment - Adj diag rod for Tower by x mm from DEFAULT_DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD value
#define TOWER_A_DIAGROD_ADJ 0 //Front Left Tower
#define TOWER_B_DIAGROD_ADJ 0 //Front Right Tower
#define TOWER_C_DIAGROD_ADJ 0 //Rear Tower

// Z-Probe variables

Sketch uses 121,982 bytes (48%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253,952 bytes.
Global variables use 6,386 bytes (77%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1,806 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8,192 bytes.
Low memory available, stability problems may occur.

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Zzyzxx71
Any chance someone could post up their firmware folder for a working Pi III? I have the bed/hot end and display working, Extruder is working correctly, but up/down/left/right isn't working and I can't seem to find a resource for getting that setup anywhere.

edit: I don't have autocalibration setup, was planning on manual calibration.

Thoughts? Thanks.

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AndyCart
If you use NO limit switches ...

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David J

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AndyCart
If you use NO limit switches ...

I thought the limit switches were NC?

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David J
A question about heat - relates to delta printers in general, not just the Cherry Pi.

Most deltas tuck all the motors and electronics within the base, thus restricting the air flow quite a lot. Then people go and put a heated bed on top (some of which are quite powerful) which must radiate some heat downwards.

As I intend to have some form of heated bed on my printer, should I be thinking about putting a fan in there somewhere, to help keep the RAMPS & Arduino boards cool?

cheers,
David

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AndyCart

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David J
A question about heat - relates to delta printers in general, not just the Cherry Pi.

Most deltas tuck all the motors and electronics within the base, thus restricting the air flow quite a lot. Then people go and put a heated bed on top (some of which are quite powerful) which must radiate some heat downwards.

As I intend to have some form of heated bed on my printer, should I be thinking about putting a fan in there somewhere, to help keep the RAMPS & Arduino boards cool?

cheers,
David

I've never needed a fan under the bed but I always use fairly low wattage heated beds. I have also stuck a piece of 3mm cork to the underside of the bed on some machines to insulate it a little. There is very little power required to move the carriages on a CP. The effector is very light and the carriages run very smoothly. My steppers usually draw about 0.75A. The things that get hot are the MOSFETs for the nozzle heater and the heat bed but they don't radiate excessive heat normally. All that said it can't hurt to add a fan. A tweak to the standard RAMPS mount would probably suffice as all you really need to do is circulate air around under the build plate. The fan could sit next to the RAMPS board and blow air down away from the bed.

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David J
Andy,

Am I right in thinking that you recommend doing the mod on the StepStick motor drivers - shorting out R4, I think? I'll be starting off by using your configuration.h file, so I'll need to match your setup as much as possible. I will be using the 3 links under each driver board.

I have the right soldering kit to make this mod, but I only want to do it if it's a real benefit.

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Zzyzxx71
Making a little progress here, have the firmware installed, for some reason had to invert the end stop logic for x/y/z for it to report correctly (M119).

When I select home, the X and Z (right and left forward towers) work correctly, the rear tower (y) just shimmy's down about 1cm.

That being said, when I manually raise/lower via the Z axis in Repetier, everything does up and down correctly, so I don't have a stepper pins flipped the wrong way.

Ideas?

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AndyCart
Your tower designations and I assume your stepper and limit switch RAMPS connections are incorrect. X is front left, Y is front right, Z is the rear tower. If you get those correctly connected it may just spring into life!