Cherry Pi III Is Available

My probe is back right hand corner and I have put in define Z_PROBE_OFFSET -23,-13,1.2,0

Its still firing off to back right then bars come out?

#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

// This configuration file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

// User-specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during
// startup. Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made to this
// build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ " " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(RichCattell, Mini Kossel)" // Who made the changes.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 250000
//#define BAUDRATE 115200

//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 3 = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 35 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
// 4 = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5 = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6 = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 64 = STB V1.1
// 65 = Azteeg X1
// 66 = Melzi with ATmega1284 (MaKr3d version)
// 7 = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 77 = 3Drag Controller
// 8 = Teensylu
// 80 = Rumba
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 9 = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 701= Megatronics v2.0
// 702= Minitronics v1.0
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo
// 21 = Elefu Ra Board (v3)

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#endif

// Define this to set a custom name for your generic Mendel,
#define CUSTOM_MENDEL_NAME "Cherry PI III"

// This defines the number of extruders
#define EXTRUDERS 1

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)

#define POWER_SUPPLY 2


//===========================================================================
//============================== Delta Settings =============================
//===========================================================================
// Enable DELTA kinematics
#define DELTA

// Make delta curves from many straight lines (linear interpolation).
// This is a trade-off between visible corners (not enough segments)
// and processor overload (too many expensive sqrt calls).
#define DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND 200

// Center-to-center distance of the holes in the diagonal push rods.
#define DEFAULT_DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 217.5 // mm

// Horizontal offset from middle of printer to smooth rod center.
#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 156.4 // mm //158

// Horizontal offset of the universal joints on the end effector.
#define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 24 // mm

// Horizontal offset of the universal joints on the carriages.
#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 24 // mm

// Effective horizontal distance bridged by diagonal push rods.
#define DEFAULT_DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET)

//Uncomment to enable autocalibration debug messages
//#define DEBUG_MESSAGES

// Precision for G30 delta autocalibration function
#define AUTOCALIBRATION_PRECISION 0.05 // mm

// Diameter of print bed - this is used to set the distance that autocalibration probes the bed at.
#define BED_DIAMETER 150 // mm

// Z-Probe variables
// Start and end location values are used to deploy/retract the probe (will move from start to end and back again)
#define PROBING_FEEDRATE 100/10*60 // Speed for individual probe Use: G30 A F600
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET {-012, -006, 1.2, 0} // X, Y, Z, E distance between hotend nozzle and deployed bed leveling probe.
#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_START_LOCATION {0, 0, 20, 0} // X, Y, Z, E start location for z-probe deployment sequence
#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_END_LOCATION {0, 0, 0, 0} // X, Y, Z, E end location for z-probe deployment sequence
#define Z_PROBE_RETRACT_START_LOCATION {0, 0, 0, 0} // X, Y, Z, E start location for z-probe retract sequence
#define Z_PROBE_RETRACT_END_LOCATION {0, 0, 0, 0} // X, Y, Z, E end location for z-probe retract sequence

#define AUTOLEVEL_GRID 24 // Distance between autolevel Z probing points, should be less than print surface radius/3.

//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermister
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

// This makes temp sensor 1 a redundant sensor for sensor 0. If the temperatures difference between these sensors is to high the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define PID_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
//#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
#define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
// is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
#define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255 //limit for the integral term
#define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor within the PID
#define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// J-Head with 12v 40W heater cartridge
#define DEFAULT_Kp 15.34
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.57
#define DEFAULT_Kd 37.45

// Makergear
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 12

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you probably
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delivered to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 255 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 255 // limits duty cycle to bed; 255=full current

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED



//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
// fine Enstop settings: Individual Pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

// Disable max endstops for compatibility with endstop checking routine
#if defined(COREXY) && !defined(DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS)
#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
#endif

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1

#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 90
#define X_MIN_POS -90
#define Y_MAX_POS 90
#define Y_MIN_POS -90
#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)

// The position of the homing switches
#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 246 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {200*60, 200*60, 200*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 439.5}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {200, 200, 200, 200} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,9000,9000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================

// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you're getting volume init error)

//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse

// The MaKr3d Makr-Panel with graphic controller and SD support
// [reprap.org]
//#define MAKRPANEL

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PC
// [reprap.org]
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PC
// [reprap.org]
//#define G3D_PANEL

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PC
// [reprap.org]
//
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: [code.google.com]
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// [reprapworld.com]
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click

// The Elefu RA Board Control Panel
// [www.elefu.com]
// REMEMBER TO INSTALL LiquidCrystal_I2C.h in your ARUDINO library folder: [github.com]
//#define RA_CONTROL_PANEL

//automatic expansion
#if defined (MAKRPANEL)
#define DOGLCD
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#define DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST 17
#endif

#if defined (REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER)
#define DOGLCD
#define U8GLIB_ST7920
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
#endif

#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#endif

#if defined(REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD)
#define NEWPANEL
#define ULTIPANEL
#endif
#if defined(RA_CONTROL_PANEL)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCA8574
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27 // I2C Address of the port expander
#endif

//I2C PANELS

//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
#ifdef LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
// This uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library ( [bitbucket.org] )
// Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCF8575
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27 // I2C Address of the port expander
#define NEWPANEL
#define ULTIPANEL
#endif

// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs, separate encoder and click inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
#ifdef LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
// This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
// Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin
// (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1).
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
#define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD
#define NEWPANEL
#define ULTIPANEL
#endif

// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs, integrated click & L/R/U/P buttons, separate encoder inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
#ifdef LCD_I2C_VIKI
// This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
// BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
#define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD (requires LiquidTWI2 v1.2.3 or later)
#define NEWPANEL
#define ULTIPANEL
#endif

#ifdef ULTIPANEL
// #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTRA_LCD
#ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the DOG graphic display
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 5
#else
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4
#endif
#else //no panel but just lcd
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the 128x64 graphics display
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 5
#else
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2
#endif
#endif
#endif

// default LCD contrast for dogm-like LCD displays
#ifdef DOGLCD
# ifndef DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST
# define DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST 32
# endif
#endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// Use software PWM to drive the fan, as for the heaters. This uses a very low frequency
// which is not ass annoying as with the hardware PWM. On the other hand, if this frequency
// is too low, you should also increment SOFT_PWM_SCALE.
//#define FAN_SOFT_PWM

// Incrementing this by 1 will double the software PWM frequency,
// affecting heaters, and the fan if FAN_SOFT_PWM is enabled.
// However, control resolution will be halved for each increment;
// at zero value, there are 128 effective control positions.
#define SOFT_PWM_SCALE 0

// M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: [www.doc-diy.net]
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23

// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

// Support for the BariCUDA Paste Extruder.
//#define BARICUDA

/*********************************************************************\
* R/C SERVO support
* Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas
**********************************************************************/

// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

// Servo Endstops
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 70,0} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H
Does this look ok?

You have X=-12 and Y=-6 in your config.h. If your probe is behind the nozzle the Y offset needs to be positive

Managed to a g30 a and this error came up
The position of the endstop switches on this printer are not within limits
Adjust endstop switches so that they are within 3mm Z-height of each other
Current Endstop Positions - X: -29.22 Y: -14.00 Z: -1.99
Autocalibration aborted

But it still wants to probe off the bed I even made the bed 140mm in bed diameter

I've been quiet for a while, but now I'm almost ready to print. I've spent about 10 lunchtimes trying to get my Pi to auto calibrate using various builds of RC's Marlin without much success. Two days ago I decided to give up and try a manual calibration using Andy's instructions. It took about 2 hours to get the bed calibrated and the extruder another 20 minutes. It was quite exciting to finally see the PLA extruding. I just need to add a layer of Kapton tape on the bed and I'll be ready to print my first calibration angle on Monday.

One question: How sensitive is the Pi to being moved. It has to live under my desk most of the time and gets moved out when I want to use it. Will the calibration hold between moves?

I move my Cherry Pi all over the place, from home, to work, to friends. It's very rare I have to adjust anything when I arrive. If I do it's normally a 0.1mm alteration to Z height and that may just be due to temperature changes.

Help needed for the slightly confused... my printer is now up and running, I have a print of the calibration guide in front of me, and I'm trying to run script 1. All that happens is that the effector zooms down and collides with the bed.

How can I tell it to stop say 10mm higher, so that I have a chance to adjust it down?

Reduce your H value down to 240mm with M666 H240.0 and then increase it from there. Mine ended up at just under 247mm.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/18/2015 11:38AM by gowen.

I'll give that a try - thanks!

Update: That worked nicely - it's nice to start from a point where the machinery isn't trying to self-destruct...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/18/2015 11:42AM by David J.

Gowen,

I have a slightly different experience with my Cherry Pi, if I sneeze on it I have to calibrate it, but it is a 4XL so I don't know if that makes a difference.

I'm struggling a bit with calibration - I've run scripts 1, 2 and 3 and set the heights nicely; a piece of paper just slips in with a little resistance. However, when I run script 4 the nozzle is 1 or 2 mm from the bed. Nothing much happens when I send M666 R apart from when the number gets too high and script 4 no longer works - also, when I try to run scripts 1-3, the effector moves much too far and the rods go flying... my, don't those rods go a long way! The current value R=125 puts the nozzle in sensible positions for the first 3 scripts, but it's obviously wrong somewhere. I seem to be changing the scale of movement in the X and Y planes without altering Z height in the central position.

So, obviously, something isn't right with my numbers - can anyone comment on what I've got so far?

14:20:57.406 : Current Delta geometry values:
14:20:57.410 : X (Endstop Adj): -0.25
14:20:57.410 : Y (Endstop Adj): -1.94
14:20:57.415 : Z (Endstop Adj): -0.10
14:20:57.415 : P (Z-Probe Offset): X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
14:20:57.417 : A (Tower A Position Correction): 0.00
14:20:57.421 : B (Tower B Position Correction): 0.00
14:20:57.426 : C (Tower C Position Correction): 0.00
14:20:57.426 : I (Tower A Radius Correction): 0.00
14:20:57.430 : J (Tower B Radius Correction): 0.00
14:20:57.435 : K (Tower C Radius Correction): 0.00
14:20:57.439 : R (Delta Radius): 125.00
14:20:57.439 : D (Diagonal Rod Length): 232.00
14:20:57.444 : H (Z-Height): 240.00

Cheers,
David

Altering delta radius with M666 R won't actually move the nozzle closer to the bed. It causes the effector to move in a flat plane from the centre out so it appears to lift the nozzle at the tower bases. You have the correct sequence. Adjust at the tower bases then check the centre. Alter delta radius accordingly then use M666 H to alter Z height to bring the nozzle down so it's correct across the bed. It can take a couple of iterations before it all works out. I normally start out with a 2mm offset on all the towers to give a little 'wiggle' room. If you have built to spec (250mm cross braces and 225mm aluminium tubes) your delta radius should be around 121mm and diagonal rod length around 231mm

Quote
David J
Update: That worked nicely - it's nice to start from a point where the machinery isn't trying to self-destruct...

I know what you mean. I have some deep gouges in my aluminium bed where the nozzle hit the bed and then ploughed sideways. I had to use some emery cloth to get the burrs off. It's a wonder the nozzle still works; I was half expecting it to be clogged with aluminium. Once I get the kapton tape on it should bridge the grooves.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2015 06:12PM by gowen.

Thanks Andy, now I understand!

I'll give that a try when I've got a spare moment.

Is there a decent website that describes the principles of delta motion?

Fiddling around with this thing has made it clear that I really don't know what setting does what - and I don't like not knowing!

[reprap.org]

First Print Time

So the day has come. I got the Kapton Tape stuck to the base plate, warmed it up, did a sliding paper test, sliced a calibration angle piece from Thingiverse and started printing.

Then I stopped printing when the first layer wouldn't stick.


So I added a brim, which also wouldn't stick.


Then I changed the first layer thickness which made it worse.


So I reverted back to the previous settings and gave the bed a good clean which worked for a little while.


With the end of lunch fast approaching a grabbed a glue stick and gave the bed a light coat, waited for it to dry and then had one last attempt. It stuck although the first layer wasn't pretty and got through to the end of the print without further issue. With a brim and glue stick it took some effort to remove the part. The final dimensions were within about 0.3mm of the design size which is good enough for me.


I did notice there was some places where it looks like not enough filament was being fed, although when I checked it I was getting about 105mm when asking for 100mm.


Would anyone care to share some screen grabs of their CURA settings for PLA or offer some thoughts on why the first layers wouldn't stick without glue?

Here is the obligatory first print video: [vimeo.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2015 03:58AM by gowen.

Quote
AndrewBCN
[reprap.org]

Thanks for that link - it's been a while since I dealt with maths like that, but at least it will give me a basic understanding of the variables used in Marlin.

Well done Gary. From the pictures it looks like your nozzle is a little high. Try dropping it 0.1mm.

Quote
AndyCart
Well done Gary. From the pictures it looks like your nozzle is a little high. Try dropping it 0.1mm.

Right. I'll try that tomorrow. What would you recommend for the first layer height and feed, and the subsequent layer height and feed?

I normally use 0.3mm @ 25mm/s as my first layer speed and height and have it slightly 'squished' on the bed. I just use kapton tape wiped with acetone at 60 degrees C as my print surface. Subsequent layer heights are really dependent on the model and your preference. I normally print at 80mm/s, 50mm/s for higher quality prints.

Andy

A Little advise if you would

I am having great difficulty getting my 4XL to calibrate and I think it may be to do with my diagonal rods being wrong length.

I have used 450 mm extrusion's for the top and bottom and 1000 mm for the towers this gives me approx 295 mm radius for the carriage runner's which gives a width between towers of approx 510 mm.

Using the online deltabot calculator it suggests arm length of 515 mm which seems a little long to me but I'm willing to try it. using the 80% suggested by you it says around 410 mm should be ok My current ones are 429 mm.

What would you advise

Doug

The proper length for the diagonal rods depends on the delta radius, which depends not only on the distance between the towers but also on how far inboard of the towers the bearings for the top of the diagonal rods are, and the effector radius (how far from the centre the mid-point of a pair of lower bearings is). What is your delta radius? You can estimate it with as ruler: with the effector centred, it is the horizontal distance spanned by a diagonal rod (bearing to bearing).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2015 04:23AM by dc42.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
The proper length for the diagonal rods depends on the delta radius, which depends not only on the distance between the towers but also on how far inboard of the towers the bearings for the top of the diagonal rods are, and the effector radius (how far from the centre the mid-point of a pair of lower bearings is). What is your delta radius? You can estimate it with as ruler: with the effector centred, it is the horizontal distance spanned by a diagonal rod (bearing to bearing).

Thank's Dave

Delta radius is as near as makes no odds 236 mm that is centers of bearing's

is there a set ratio between Delta Radius and Delta arm length?

We will get there soon my current rods are 429 mm but I am starting to suspect that there may be a small variation across the set

Edit after some reading I have found a suggestion that the angle between Bed and Diag Rod should be around 20 degrees at the extreme now with a tower to opposite edge of bed being 495 mm and a carriage offset of approx 30 mm and effector offset of approx 35 mm leave me at 430 mm I calculate that to give me an ideal rod length of 457 mm (430/cos20). If I use the 60 degree rule when homed then that would be 236/cos60 which equal's 472 mm.

Does this make sense and which would be the preferred option ie is longer better in this case.

Doug

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2015 07:32AM by dougal1957.

I am not an expert in this field, but from a control point of view it is indeed the ratio of diagonal rod length to delta radius that matters; which is equivalent to saying that you should aim for a particular angle when homed. For my Midi Kossel (which is working well), I kept the ratio the same as it was in my Mini Kossel, at 2.05:1. The 60 degree when homed rule gives a ratio of 2:1, so more or less the same.

One disadvantage of longer rods is that they reduce the resonant frequency of the head/rods assembly and make it more prone to vibration.

However, even with your present 429mm rods, you should be able to print over a reasonable part of the bed, avoiding the extremeties.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2015 07:50AM by dc42.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

If you have a look at page 203 of the Mini-Kossel Assembly Guide. There are some useful pictures showing what the dimensions mean.

Quote
gowen
If you have a look at page 203 of the Mini-Kossel Assembly Guide. There are some useful pictures showing what the dimensions mean.

Gary

Thanks for the input good info but it doesn't really help in this case as that is all based on Marlin firmware which I am not using and it looks like my rods are not quite right so I am in the process of making some new ones slightly longer (And make sure they all come out exactly the same length).

Time to cut down my Carbon Fibre tube and fit the Balls to one end (Already have them mounted at one end) Think I will try at 470 mm and see how we go.

Doug

Well, I'm making some progress - or, to be exact, 5 steps forward and 1 or 2 steps back.

I've got X, Y, Z, R and H just about right, and I've started to do some test prints. Unfortunately I'm having trouble with slipping belts, every layer or so a belt will skip a tooth and screw up the print. I've identified one or two issues already:

Motor fixing - if I tighten up the motor fastening screws as much as is necessary to hold them in place then I'm starting to crush the plastic. My frame prints were to spec but my M3 washers have quite a small outside diameter, which means they tend to dig in a bit. I could use over-size washers, but I think I'll fix this with a metal plate on the screw side (I have the necessary materials and technology!).

Motor pulleys - the tooth profile doesn't look as well-defined as on my Prusa's pulleys, so I think I need to find some better ones.

I'm starting to think that I need to put the Arduino/RAMPS boards outside of the frame so that I can get at them easier - I've already had to remove the bed 3 or 4 times today to make some tweaks, and that messes up the calibration. That's not a criticism of the Cherry Pi of course - most deltas have the board inside the frame. Alternatively I may just go for a totally different board that doesn't require regular fiddling - my boards & stepper drivers were China's finest products (ahem) and I'm not hugely impressed - perhaps it's time to go up-market.

But in all other respects - I'm slowly getting there!

David

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2015 10:39AM by David J.

Quote
David J
Well, I'm making some progress - or, to be exact, 5 steps forward and 1 or 2 steps back.

I've got X, Y, Z, R and H just about right, and I've started to do some test prints. Unfortunately I'm having trouble with slipping belts, every layer or so a belt will skip a tooth and screw up the print. I've identified one or two issues already:

Motor fixing - if I tighten up the motor fastening screws as much as is necessary to hold them in place then I'm starting to crush the plastic. My frame prints were to spec but my M3 washers have quite a small outside diameter, which means they tend to dig in a bit. I could use over-size washers, but I think I'll fix this with a metal plate on the screw side (I have the necessary materials and technology!).

Motor pulleys - the tooth profile doesn't look as well-defined as on my Prusa's pulleys, so I think I need to find some better ones.

I'm starting to think that I need to put the Arduino/RAMPS boards outside of the frame so that I can get at them easier - I've already had to remove the bed 3 or 4 times today to make some tweaks, and that messes up the calibration. That's not a criticism of the Cherry Pi of course - most deltas have the board inside the frame. Alternatively I may just go for a totally different board that doesn't require regular fiddling - my boards & stepper drivers were China's finest products (ahem) and I'm not hugely impressed - perhaps it's time to go up-market.

But in all other respects - I'm slowly getting there!

David

David

Can strongly recommend the DUET dead easy to configure and DC42's Firmware is the Dogs Bollxxxx as they say (I Know I haven't got mine fully dialled in yet but will have soon convinced my Diag Rods are wrong and my frame isn't stable enough Bracing about to go on it as we speak)

Doug