Cherry Pi III Is Available

Hi Andy

Here is the diagram you need

Andy

Quote
mrorange26
Has anybody managed to make a holder so I can use a e3d lite head on the cherry pi?

Les (Pointy) did a set to take a E3D V6 which are the same dimensions/fitting as the E3D v6lite don't know if he posted them here or not? (I Have them if needed)

It would also depend on which effector you have as well (Hinged with cal sensor or not).

Doug

Andy,

Great, that's just what I need, thanks!

Should I have known about that diagram? Is there a site somewhere with more information like that or is it just this forum thread?

Best regards

Some of the Cherry Pi parts on Thingiverse have a descriptive filename. E.g Bottom_Stepper_Base_V3_x_3__33_0.3_2P_3T_3B_PLA

I assume this breaks down as:
V3 = Version
x3 = quantity
33 = ???????
0.3 = layer height,
2P = 2 perimeters
3T = 3 top layers
3B = 3 bottom layers
PLA = material

As far as I can see only the PLA parts are named like this. What settings would you recommend for ABS parts?

Hi Gary

You are correct about the code I use in the file name. The 33 is the infill value I.e 33%. I use the same settings for the ABS parts too.

Andy

Quote
bower-andy
Andy,

Great, that's just what I need, thanks!

Should I have known about that diagram? Is there a site somewhere with more information like that or is it just this forum thread?

Best regards

Hi Andy

It should have been in your kit. Sorry for the omission. This thread is basically it as far as build instructions go but it's fairly straightforward.

Email me, or post here, if you have particular questions or a specific image would be useful.

Andy

Its e3d v6 lite not hinged .No probe at the moment.

Hi Andy,

On p17 (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,361141,page=17) gowen shows some small bent wires used to attach the springs to the guides. Are these meant to be part of the kit (I can't find them) or can I just use a bent paperclip or similar?

Best regards

Andy Bower

Hi Andy(,

In my kit, Andy(C) supplied a small coil of wire. One thing I found was to keep the loop as short as possible. The long loops shown on Page 17 got bent back and forth and soon broke. The attached photo shows my current connection which has had no problems.



Hope this helps.

Gary.

Quote
bower-andy
Hi Andy,

On p17 (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,361141,page=17) gowen shows some small bent wires used to attach the springs to the guides. Are these meant to be part of the kit (I can't find them) or can I just use a bent paperclip or similar?

Best regards

Andy Bower

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2015 04:09AM by gowen.

Gary,

Thanks, I don't seem to have that coil of wire.
One more question - when fitting the toothed pulleys onto the motors do the screws go nearest the motor body or furthest away. I see that the Mini Kossel instructions from Think3DPrint3D show them furthest away.

Best regards

Andy Bower

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2015 04:30AM by bower-andy.

Quote
bower-andy
Gary,

Thanks, I don't seem to have that coil of wire.
One more question - when fitting the toothed pulleys onto the motors do the screws go nearest the motor body or furthest away. I see that the Mini Kossel instructions from Think3DPrint3D show them furthest away.

Best regards

Andy Bower

A picture is worth a thousand words.



BTW, the grub screws go down a long way.

Hi Andy

You should have a package in your kit containing the stainless steel wire, the Spectra line, the heatshrink tubing and the 80mm springs. I know a put them all in a small zip top bag. Let me know if you can't find them. I'm on holiday at the moment in France but back next week. I'll check my bench to make sure the package wasn't left out of the kit. If you recall I didn't pack it all up personally. It may have been missed. If so I'll post it n to you.

Andy

I have to say a big thank you to DC42, the ir probe works amazingly well. I made a mount which fits under the effector and it calibrated in under 30 mins to 0.03, a bit of fine calibration after that with the bed warm and its running great.

[drive.google.com]


Matt

Matt, thanks for the feedback! I am glad it is working well for you. What print surface are you using?

My next batch of 10 IR sensors is sold out already, but I am planning another one in July. If there is enough demand, I will put them into mass production and reduce the price again.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

It's an aluminium print bed at the moment.

It's an amazing little thing, really easy to set up. I have it connected to a ramps board which appears to be working great. You can tell the ramps is at it's limit though, if you try and use the encoder while it's printing you have a 5 second delay on the screen output.

Quote
Matt,Wheatley
It's an aluminium print bed at the moment.

It's an amazing little thing, really easy to set up. I have it connected to a ramps board which appears to be working great. You can tell the ramps is at it's limit though, if you try and use the encoder while it's printing you have a 5 second delay on the screen output.

Time to upgrade to a Duet then! It will also cut your auto calibration time from 30 minutes to 25 seconds. See the link in my signature for more.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hi Andy.

I don't seem to have that bag. I have everything in the original box but have thrown some of the bubble wrap away. If you can't find it on your bench then it may have got stuck to the wrap and followed it into the trash. I'm happy to reimburse you if you think it was actually sent.

Another Q.The sleeved many core wire .. what is that for?

Best regards

Strip off the outer covering and use the inner cores for your motors, limit switches, etc

I've managed to get the CherryPi printing quite well, but I'm having difficulty getting the print quality acceptable.



Here the white pieces are from the CherryPi, and the yellow ones from my Prusa i3. All I've done with the yellow pieces is trim off the brim.

The CherryPi is printing with 1.75mm PLA, hot-end temp 210C, bed 60C, moderate print speed - as you can see, the print is very blobby, especially around the cut-outs and apertures, and is quite distorted. The Prusa is printing with 3.00mm ABS, hot-end temp 240C, bed 100C. Both have E3Dv6 hot-ends, but the Prusa is non-bowden with the Wade extruder directly over the hot-end.

What should I look at to reduce the blobbing and distortion on the CherryPi? Temperature? Retraction amount? Anything else?

Disclaimer: I've spent a lot of time getting my Prusa to work the way I like, and I haven't yet put that much effort into the CherryPi! I would normally expect to get even better results from the Prusa with a bit of fiddling around - this was just for a comparison.

What retraction settings are you using for the Cherry Pi in your slicing program?

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Retraction speed = 40mm/sec
Retraction distance = 4mm
Minimum travel before retract = 1.5mm
Minimum extrusion before retract = 0.02mm

(All from the Cura slicer within Repetier Host)

Hey David,

This is an interesting question. I come to the Cherry Pi and this forum with exactly same dilemma except that it stems from an attempted build of a RichRap 3DR Delta and the comparison of the prints with a Prusa i3 Hephestos. The prints from the Prusa are excellent despite the fact that the machine itself is a goddamn eyesore. I few months back, my son Harry and I started building a 3DR. Shown in the pictures below. Sadly, so far the prints have been less than perfect. On the left hand side are the 3DR test cubes and on the right are the ones from the Prusa and you can see that the edges on the 3DR prints are somewhat wavy. On more complex shapes I was also getting a lot of stringing.







Ordering the Cherry Pi kit from AndyC is my attempt to reaffirm my belief in the Delta format. I have only owned Cartesian printers before (Printrbot Simple Metal and Prusa) and I'm keen to find out if a Delta can match the quality and possibly exceed the speed of this style of printer. So no pressure Andy(C) but the future of the delta form (in my eyes) is in your hands! I'm hoping that once I get the CPi III working I can then go back, with renewed confidence, and finish off my son's 3DR with him. As you can see it's a nice looking machine.

Best regards

Andy Bower

Hello Andy. this has probably already been asked and answered but this thread is long:

What made you switch over to the wheels in slots instead of the bearing rollers on the flat aluminium parts? Simplicity? Noise? Having one side free? Since V-slot or T-slot wheels still seem more expensive and a few more bearings. Maybe someone can point me to a place where this was discussed.

I started a thread here because I was thinking about buying V-slot (currently free international shipping costs) and "came up" with flat rollers on extrusions as a cheaper alternative. I most probably seen your carriage approach before but forgot about it

Did anyone find a good solution to making a wheel cap on the bearings? Heat shrink out of silicone or something seems like a good idea.

I have a Cartesian printer (an Ormerod) and a Delta (a Kossel derivative). Both use Duet electronics, and when printing PLA I used the same filament with both of them. Both use Bowden extruders. The Kossel now has a longer Bowden tube then the Ormerod.

Having tried the same prints on both, I now do almost all my prints on the Kossel. It is faster for the same print quality. It also seems more stable. I run auto calibration every time I turn the printer on, which gives good results. On the Ormerod, I run auto bed compensation before doing large prints, but I don't trust it as much.

So I firmly believe that with the right electronics and firmware, delta is better than Cartesian.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2015 07:02AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

My CherryPi has the potential to be better (or at least, more convenient) than my Prusa - it's quicker, quieter, and compact enough to tuck under my desk when I'm not using it. The Prusa has to sit on a wheeled trolley so that it can be towed near to my PC. Although taller, the delta takes very little space on my desk so I can get on with other stuff while it's working.

My question was more to do with tuning the machine to give its best performance, and I was just seeking guidance on the factors to adjust first.

BTW: Forgot to mention in my post that I have calibrated my extruder, and its feed rate is spot on.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2015 04:58AM by David J.

@bower-andy

the wavyness in your prints is due to a bad wades bolt.
I have a 3dr modified with spring ball joints and a e3d v6 hot end.. The prints i get are much better than my mendelmax 1.5. I changed the extruder to use a mk8 hob which has a very good grip. I have never had
luck with the stock wades bolt ( dont have a good source for them )..

Quote
Dejay
Hello Andy. this has probably already been asked and answered but this thread is long:

What made you switch over to the wheels in slots instead of the bearing rollers on the flat aluminium parts? Simplicity? Noise? Having one side free? Since V-slot or T-slot wheels still seem more expensive and a few more bearings. Maybe someone can point me to a place where this was discussed.

I started a thread here because I was thinking about buying V-slot (currently free international shipping costs) and "came up" with flat rollers on extrusions as a cheaper alternative. I most probably seen your carriage approach before but forgot about it

Did anyone find a good solution to making a wheel cap on the bearings? Heat shrink out of silicone or something seems like a good idea.

Hi Dejay

The main reason I swapped, originally, to V wheels was that someone gave me a set! Since then I had issues with the older bearing type carriages due to inconsistency with the size of the extrusion that I was getting. I haven't ever used V Slot in my delta designs as it's very expensive compared to the Bosch/Rexroth extrusion I use. If you buy quality bearings the Mini V wheels are a similar price. They work really well and it was easier to build some adjustment into the carriage to compensate for the varying extrusion size.

Andy

Quote
David J
I've managed to get the CherryPi printing quite well, but I'm having difficulty getting the print quality acceptable.

Here the white pieces are from the CherryPi, and the yellow ones from my Prusa i3. All I've done with the yellow pieces is trim off the brim.

The CherryPi is printing with 1.75mm PLA, hot-end temp 210C, bed 60C, moderate print speed - as you can see, the print is very blobby, especially around the cut-outs and apertures, and is quite distorted. The Prusa is printing with 3.00mm ABS, hot-end temp 240C, bed 100C. Both have E3Dv6 hot-ends, but the Prusa is non-bowden with the Wade extruder directly over the hot-end.

What should I look at to reduce the blobbing and distortion on the CherryPi? Temperature? Retraction amount? Anything else?

Disclaimer: I've spent a lot of time getting my Prusa to work the way I like, and I haven't yet put that much effort into the CherryPi! I would normally expect to get even better results from the Prusa with a bit of fiddling around - this was just for a comparison.

I had similar issues with blobby prints after changing to the latest version of Cura. I went back tonV 14 and the issue went away.

Andy

Thanks for the answer! I didn't realize you used Vslot wheels on normal extrusions. I've decided to just order some mini V wheels plus some V slot extrusions for the verticals only.

Quote
AndyCart

I had similar issues with blobby prints after changing to the latest version of Cura. I went back tonV 14 and the issue went away.

Andy

Interesting - I haven't tried slic3r yet with this printer, as I normally get quicker prints from Cura. Worth a try, as it won't cost me anything!

Cheers,
David