Hi Guys



I thought you might be interested in the latest iteration of my Cherry Pi range, Cherry Pi 4XL. The machine has a full 300mm diameter heated print bed and can print up to 550mm tall objects. It's basically the same as my Cherry Pi III but the towers are from 3 x 1M 2040 extrusion to help combat flex. All the parts are the same apart from the stepper mount/tower bases, the top vertices and the top vertices covers. They have been amended to accommodate the larger extrusion. It prints just as well as the other Cherry Pi machines, just bigger!

If anyone needs the three amended .stl files I've attached two of them here. The other (the top vertice) is too large just let me know if you need it and PM me with your email address. There is a video of the machine printing here [youtu.be]

Andy

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2014 01:16PM by AndyCart.

Nice
But stop making new changes I want. I cannot keep up

You are getting pretty close to the dimensions that my CP mutt was built to! (1000mm long columns, 400mm crossbars) Based on my gut feeling with no engineering research to back it up, I was thinking about going 2040 for both the uprights and crossbars if I was going to build another Delta.....

2040 for the towers certainly works better at 1M than 2020. If I hold the bottom of the machine and try to twist the top its actually the bottom stepper bases that flex. So far this isn't showing in printing but it may be an area to look at in future and/or bigger designs. 2020 seems fine for the crossbars as I have two of them on Each side

Nice work! I'm currently contemplating building a similar size delta.

When looking at various designs I noticed the difference how 2040 extrusions are used. In your design the long side points to the center. In other designs (for example wolfstock), the long side is perpendicular to the center. I'm just wondering is what are the benefits/tradeoffs of your approach?

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carrierlost
Nice work! I'm currently contemplating building a similar size delta.

When looking at various designs I noticed the difference how 2040 extrusions are used. In your design the long side points to the center. In other designs (for example wolfstock), the long side is perpendicular to the center. I'm just wondering is what are the benefits/tradeoffs of your approach?

In terms of rigidity I'm sure it doesn't matter but by setting them the way they are I was able to reuse the carriage components from the original, smaller design.

Sweet mother of mercy that looks magnificent. Once I get bored of my CPIII I'll make the jump to this one. Would be a nice upgrade for a few printed bits and some extrusion.

XLent!

Please send me the top vertice- email is david.sherwood24@gmail.com

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thetekguy
XLent!

Please send me the top vertice- email is [email protected]

You should be able to download it from here [docs.google.com]

Hey Andy,

great. Im will Build the Bigger Pi.
Do you got an BOm for this one?
Or will it get to Thingiverse or else?

Thank You

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DeV6
Hey Andy,

great. Im will Build the Bigger Pi.
Do you got an BOm for this one?
Or will it get to Thingiverse or else?

Thank You

The BOM is the same as the standard Cherry Pi III apart from the three .stl files linked here and the tower extrusions are Bosch/ Rexroth 2040 from KJN in the UK. I also used a standard 30A PSU under the heated build plate. The heater I used was a 250mm diameter kapton foil. To be safe I run it via a relay as the curreny draw is right on the limit for RAMPS. The build plate is a 300mm diameter mirror, sold on Amazon as a candle plate. They appear to be made from toughened glass and mine is 4mm thick.

Thanks Andy.

Are the 20x20 Extrusions also the Same as the Cherry Pi III?

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DeV6
Thanks Andy.

Are the 20x20 Extrusions also the Same as the Cherry Pi III?

They are 350mm long

AWESOME!

Almost all Parts ordered.
Just some spezials are missing like the Microswitches. Cant find any switches that are this small.

When all comes i will make an Thread (one in German and a Picture show in English).

Cant say it often enough!
Thank You Andy!

Did you need to increase the length of the 6mm rods between the effector plate and the carriages?

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Gage
Did you need to increase the length of the 6mm rods between the effector plate and the carriages?

Yes. I always use 80% of the distance between tower centres

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AndyCart

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Gage
Did you need to increase the length of the 6mm rods between the effector plate and the carriages?

Yes. I always use 80% of the distance between tower centres

Thanks. I have a lot to learn and this is all fascinating.

So, 350mm cross members time .8 should equal 280mm for the length on the 6mm tubes. Sound right?

Do you have a source for the 300mm heated bed and gorilla glass?

So the Difference is

3x 2040 Extrusion 1000mm
9x 2020 Extrusion 350mm
6x 6mm Rod 280mm


For the Heated Bed, take a look @AliExpress or an Local Shop.
[www.aliexpress.com]

The Onyx 310mm bed (from seemecnc) might be an option as well. I put one on my Kossel Clear, and it works well.

That would be perfect. Pricey though!

I picked my Onyx heat bed up when SeeMeCNC was having a blowout sale due to a new model they had just released. They currently are blowing out some $39.00 USD mis-manufactured boards where the resistance was off slightly, which work on 24V but not 12V. I'm happy with mine.....

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vreihen
I picked my Onyx heat bed up when SeeMeCNC was having a blowout sale due to a new model they had just released. They currently are blowing out some $39.00 USD mis-manufactured boards where the resistance was off slightly, which work on 24V but not 12V. I'm happy with mine.....

Shipping to the UK is the killer!

I just picked some of these bad boys:



They're 3"x3" 80/20 inc extrusions and I'd like to use them for the cross members. How how hard would it be to adapt the extrusion brackets for these? I would still use 2040 v-slot for the tower rails.

If you load the original .stl files into Sketchup and run Thom's Cleanup plug in on them you should be able to amend them easily

So Andy... I noticed Openbuilds have the new C-Beam rail. Looks perfect for this.

C Beam looks great but may be overkill for a delta, unless it was super enormous ....

Where's my copy of Sketchup ? !!!!

Thank you for the design! I ordered all the parts

A couple questions.

Any cons (not including cost) of going bigger vs your normal cherry pi III?
a. Does the resolution go down any?
I. Do I need to print with a bigger head

What is the fail rate of a print?
a. Is there a way to setup sensor to detect a jam?
b. What was the build time of that 3d printed guitar, and did it finish (No jams)?

Hi Mike

You're welcome. The resolution on the larger version is just the same as on the 'normal' Cherry Pi. You can use any of the effector variants, JHead, E3D V5 or E3D Cyclops. I think someone also designed a E3D V6 effector too.

Fail rate is the same as any other 3D printer. You could implement a filament flow sensor but I've never thought it necessary. The guitar was printed in two parts, body and neck. From memory the body took 23 hours and the neck 22. Both were successful first time. I've only ever had a jam once while printing and that proved to be debris in the filament I was using. If you do get a blockage the E3D hot ends are much easier to clear than the JHeads.

Good luck with you build. Lots of useful info in the Cherry Pi thread as they are, basically, the same machine. The only differences are the bottom brackets, top brackets, top covers, delta rod lengths, towers and build plate diameter. Other than that all parts are interchangeable.

Andy

[Deleted]

nvm I got a refund.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2015 04:50PM by mikes3ds.

[Deleted]

nvm I got a refund.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2015 04:50PM by mikes3ds.