3dr spring socket joints

i finally got my 3dr converted to use the spring socket joints from andycart's cherry pi 3. They work a little better than the traxxas joints I had.







files :

thingiverse

Quote
ekaggrat
i finally got my 3dr converted to use the spring socket joints from andycart's cherry pi 3. They work a little better than the traxxas joints I had.

DSC0957.jpg

Nice work !!!!!!!!!!!! Expect a lot more people to change to this setup!

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You only learn when you change your mind.
[www.deltaprinter.co.za]

@Xabbax

The simplicity is just amazing. Only time will tell how long they last. The reason i converted to this was that the trarrax joints had some backlash in them which when tension-ed with springs made them unequal. This made the micro platform rock side to side. Interestingly though between the trarrax joints and this system i didn't see much change in print quality. The biggest difference it made was that i was getting unequal x and y dimensions ( 0.3 mm difference in a 20mm cube ) due to the backlash , which is now gone...

Make sure you put a dab of silicone grease in each cup given the low load, large bearing surface and good lube they should last a while

That's excellent!

And hilarious: I just finished re-designing the effector for my Cherry Pi III this weekend. Started from scratch in OpenSCAD, and I see some striking similarities to yours!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518398

I designed mine with the intention of swapping 10mm ball bearings out for the magnets. Is that what you did, or did you get the pre-drilled 8mm ones?

And I'm glad to hear your report that it works. It was hard for me to bring myself to tear my functioning printer apart.

I'm about 70% of the way finished with my retro-fit.

@maso

i used 9 mm balls with m4 threads in them . I also tried with plain 9mm balls. the problem is that plain balls are a little hard to align when glueing in place ( with a 6mm dia socket) . If you want to use plain balls use a bigger socket to glue in on the rods.

also i would like to look at your print quality before and after the mod. I think there needs to be a post to compare prints from different machines at speeds higher than 80mm/s. that will give a idea of the true capabilities of the system, And prints of mechanical parts with straight walls and not a pink panther woman.

Right now i still get some minor banding in my prints at high speeds ( 80mm/s fill and 60mm/s perimeter ). I dont know if it is normal or if my bearings or rods are sloppy. I cant tell as there is nothing to compare it with.

I might upgrade my Delta like this.

Can you show a picture of the parts in detail, before assembled ?

So the rod goes into the all with the red adapter in between, but how ?

Thomas

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

@replace

the red adapter is actually not needed. My problem was that i had 9mm balls with M4 threads which left a clear hole of 3.5 mm .The cf rod was 4mm and wont fit hence the adapter. If can get threadless balls with 4mm hole u don't need a adapter. Just cut the rod to exact length and insert in the balls.

Ok thanks

balls on ebay ?

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

Any comments on printing these ball- ends ?

If tolerance of the socket is no problem, the ball should not add much slack ?
It is the spring that cures it ?

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

if you can get these you can modify the files for you. I got the 9mm balls from aliexpress but they are no longer available.
printed balls wont work because they will never be perfectly spherical.

one more way is you could try normal 9mm ball bearings and glue them to a socket fixed to the cf rod.

ebay