Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Glad to hear you're getting closer, these are a project!

The ini file is for Cura, it won't work for slic3r. Sorry, I have to get that one made asap.

The measurements sound about right, you measure from the flat part of the rail to the center of the bolt holes on the rods connected to the end effector. This is the most difficult measurement on the setup.

Your end effector top plate is upside down, the indented circle needs to be facing down, the hot end fits into it for a flush fit. You may have to grind it a little for the metal hot end to fit into the indented part.

For the initial setup, messing with the code and quickly moving the printer around, I recommend pronterface.

Hope this can get you going!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2015 10:40PM by MakerFront.

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Here are some screenshots and an ini file for slic3r.

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OK, thanks again. I got another error (below) with that config file, but I'll go with the screenshots to keep moving...

ERROR: I was unable to load the selected config file: unable to resolve overloaded method for Wx::ComboBox:etSelection at /Volumes/Repetier-Host Mac.app/Repetier-Host Mac.app/Contents/Resources/Slic3r.app/Contents/Resources/lib/std/Slic3r/GUI/Tab.pm line 844

I'm trying to follow your screen shots, but mine look completely different and I don't see all the same fields. I'm using Repetier-Host Mac 0.56...is that different than what you're using? Here's what one of my Printer Setup screens looks like:

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/11/2015 12:29AM by ohecht.

The people who made Repetier Host decided to make the screens different between Windows and Mac. Don't know why, but I'll try to get some mac screen caps later today or tonight.

Thanks again for all the help. I flipped the effector plate, recalibrated everything, and the first print came out pretty good. Now I'm wondering how to use the auto-leveling feature. The third print I tried tonight is obviously "tilted"...I can see the print head coming off of the plate on one side of the print. How should I be using the autolevel feature to calibrate the printer?

To use the autolevel feature, you have to put this in your start gcode after the G28 line. Of course all without the (text).

G1 Z15 F4000
M280 P0 S5 (this will deploy the servo, you may need to change the angle "S5" to what makes the servo arm perpendicular to the bed)
G29 (Starts the autolevel process)
M280 P0 S120 (this will retract the servo, you may need to change the angle "S120" to what makes the servo arm retract but not hit the end effector)



You also need to set line 355 in config.h so the probe offset from the nozzle is correct for X and Y. The -1.4 value is my probe height offset, yours may vary.
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET {0, 12.5, -1.4, 0}

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/12/2015 12:04PM by MakerFront.

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OK, thanks again. So I guess G29 runs the routine and makes all the adjustments based on the readings in one step?

I seem to be having issues getting the PLA to flow, especially at the beginning of the prints...the extruder keeps "skipping" a lot, I think. What are the variables I should be adjusting to get a consistent flow of material?

As I watch it print, it looks like the nozzle is getting pinched against the bed on one side of the print and preventing the material from flowing despite running the autolevel routine with each print. This is from left to right on a print that's only about 1.5 inches across. Is it possible that the bed is that warped or the settings are that far off?

That's definitely what's going on, but I have no idea how to adjust that. Here are some pictures to show the issue close up and relative to the scale of the bed. The nozzle is digging into the bed on one side of a very small print and so far from the bed on the other side that the filament is stringing along randomly, and all of this is right after running the auto-level routine.

I just ran the autolevel without a print, and here are the values I see in the Log Window...not sure how to interpret them, but they look all over the place for readings that I would expect to be pretty close together if they're all supposed to be the same measurement to the plate at different points:

< 7:56:09 PM: 0.927 0.927 0.927 0.557 0.885 0.885 0.885
< 7:56:14 PM: 0.510 0.510 -0.650 -0.933 -0.518 0.595 0.595
< 7:56:21 PM: 1.497 -0.245 -1.358 -1.728 -1.288 -0.173 1.775
< 7:56:28 PM: 1.395 -0.373 -1.375 -1.725 -1.310 -0.130 1.725
< 7:56:35 PM: 2.087 0.367 -0.633 -0.913 -0.540 0.575 2.387
< 7:56:40 PM: 1.782 1.782 0.780 0.475 1.002 2.047 2.047
< 7:56:43 PM: 3.000 3.000 3.000 2.742 3.250 3.250 3.250

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/12/2015 08:14PM by ohecht.

CONFIGURATION MANUAL IS UP!

This covers the configuration and measurements of the printer and the firmware variables that need to be set. I'll work on a slicer/cura manual soon, but this should get you going!

[drive.google.com]

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Quote
ohecht
OK, thanks again. So I guess G29 runs the routine and makes all the adjustments based on the readings in one step?

I seem to be having issues getting the PLA to flow, especially at the beginning of the prints...the extruder keeps "skipping" a lot, I think. What are the variables I should be adjusting to get a consistent flow of material?

As I watch it print, it looks like the nozzle is getting pinched against the bed on one side of the print and preventing the material from flowing despite running the autolevel routine with each print. This is from left to right on a print that's only about 1.5 inches across. Is it possible that the bed is that warped or the settings are that far off?

That's definitely what's going on, but I have no idea how to adjust that. Here are some pictures to show the issue close up and relative to the scale of the bed. The nozzle is digging into the bed on one side of a very small print and so far from the bed on the other side that the filament is stringing along randomly, and all of this is right after running the auto-level routine.

I just ran the autolevel without a print, and here are the values I see in the Log Window...not sure how to interpret them, but they look all over the place for readings that I would expect to be pretty close together if they're all supposed to be the same measurement to the plate at different points:

< 7:56:09 PM: 0.927 0.927 0.927 0.557 0.885 0.885 0.885
< 7:56:14 PM: 0.510 0.510 -0.650 -0.933 -0.518 0.595 0.595
< 7:56:21 PM: 1.497 -0.245 -1.358 -1.728 -1.288 -0.173 1.775
< 7:56:28 PM: 1.395 -0.373 -1.375 -1.725 -1.310 -0.130 1.725
< 7:56:35 PM: 2.087 0.367 -0.633 -0.913 -0.540 0.575 2.387
< 7:56:40 PM: 1.782 1.782 0.780 0.475 1.002 2.047 2.047
< 7:56:43 PM: 3.000 3.000 3.000 2.742 3.250 3.250 3.250

First off, I would cover the bed with blue painters tape (3M 2090 works the best from my experience)

I've seen issues with the hot end being clogged with metal shavings. Take it completely apart and clean it out, that may solve all your issues.

I have tried the blue tape and even the Kapton tape, but the print head peels the tape up in the part where it's too close to the print bed. Something's causing the print to be on a severe angle. The PLA seems to flow well once the print head is not blocked by the bed...if I let the print continue to the higher levels, the material does flow well. I'm just not sure what variables or physical elements of the printer to adjust to get the prints to be level and I'm not sure why the autolevel isn't compensating for it. In fact, I think the autolevel might be inducing the angle if it's getting bad readings for whatever reason.

Just to triple check, sorry if this is repetitive!

Rods are all the same length
Measurements from the towers to the hot end are all equal
Bed is secured
Frame that the bed is on is secure
Towers are perpendicular to the base
Belts are tight
Carriages are tight
Steps per mm are all the same in the FW for XYZ axes
XY probe offset is defined properly in FW


To make sure your auto level is actually working, do a test print and manually trip the switch on a couple points as it is measuring the points, when it goes to print, you'll see the head lift where you triggered the switch higher than the bed.

I'm sure you've checked all of this, but I'm running short on answers, sorry!

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2015 10:56AM by MakerFront.

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I will check all of that again when I get home. Can you tell me again how to properly measure the distance from the towers to the hot end? I think I measured from the inside faces of the towers to the center of the bolt holes on the effector per your earlier instructions...I assume this needs to be measured on a perfectly horizontal line between the two...is that right? I got 157 mm for each the last time, but I will check again.

The only other thing I never did was the X/Y offset for the autolevel probe. You told me how to do the z offset, which I measured at 3 mm on mine, but I just left the x and y where they were. If there's an instruction for how to do that, please let me know.

I think my belts are tight, but I'm not sure how to check that...they certainly aren't slipping. Is there a way to measure the tension? Same with the carriages...not sure how to check or correct that.

Thanks again.

Olivier

For the belts, just tight enough to prevent slippage is good, you don't want them too tight.

The X and Y offset of the probe should be good, (X may be off a little since I didn't define that in the FW)

You basically deploy the probe and measure how far the probe is from the hot end on the X and Y planes.

You are correct on measuring the hot end in relation to the slides, I use a steel metric ruler and butt the end up against the linear rail to make sure it's straight. That's the hardest measurement to get on the machine unfortunately. Make sure you measure that with the the printer homed and steppers holding home. I've noticed mine "relaxes" when the power to the motors is off and one of the carriages falls just enough to lose contact with the end stop. This is normal and okay because during printing, the motors should hold every step from homing until the print is finished.

Cheers!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2015 03:47PM by MakerFront.

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The auto bed compensation feature is of dubious use on a delta printer. You shouldn't needs it, provided you have the endstop corrections and delta radius set correctly. If your firmware has a delta auto calibration facility, use that instead.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I don't see how it is of no use, the bed is fixed-mounted with no adjustments. This would provide the necessary offset for the bed being installed at a slight angle without having to make endstop calibrations.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2015 03:57PM by MakerFront.

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Quote
MakerFront
I don't see how it is of no use, the bed is fixed-mounted with no adjustments. This would provide the necessary offset for the bed being installed at a slight angle without having to make endstop calibrations.

For that to work, you would need to know how much the bed is tilted, so that you can deliberately set the endstop adjustments so as not to give equal z-heights in front of all 3 towers as per standard delta calibration. But in a good delta build, there is no excuse for the bed not being level anyway, because it does not need to move.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I see what you mean. Maybe I'll include something in the config manual about making sure the bed is perpendicular to the towers.

For now, I'm working in Rev 3 of the firmware.

I'm starting with this:
[github.com]

There's also talk of moving to an inductive sensor, but don't hold me to that.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2015 04:45PM by MakerFront.

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OK, I spent the day adjusting the end stops and changing the Smooth Rod Offset to get the printer to print on a flat plane even with out autoleveling...so far so good on my first large test print, but the nozzle is staying at the same height all the way across the print. I ended up with these offsets at 180mm, which seems huge, but that's the number that allowed me to get the print head the same distance off the bed near each of the 3 towers and in the middle with no concave or convex areas between the 3 outer points and the center of the bed...

Here are the new problems I'm having:

- I'm using Slic3r within Repetier Host, and the custom code for the autolevel is in the configurations there, but it's not going into the G-code when I slice the files.

- When I try to use the autolevel, it looks like it's trying to go off the print bed. I also have objects start off way outside my print area when I bring them into Repetier...I have to zero out the X, Y, and Z axes to get the objects near the middle of the print area...I wonder if these two are related somehow I'm still not sure I have all my print area dimensions right, even though I've been through the configuration manual and screen shots many times by now.

- I noticed I can't move the print head less than .2mm during all of my calibrations. Is this the limitation of the 36-tooth pulleys and why most people seem to prefer 20-tooth pulleys?

Thanks again for all the help...I'd just like to get the autolevel working to fine-tune my already close physical calibrations and then learn how to use the software more effectively with positioning objects, etc.

Olivier

Does anybody know where I can find a replacement for the push to connect coupling that goes into the top of the hotend? Mine won't grip the tube anymore. I'm having trouble figuring out what size this part is. I've asked the FolgerTech folks if they sell replacements, but no response yet. I'm sure they'll respond eventually, but I'd like to get up and running as soon as I can.

They sell the tube couplings on their website www.folgertech.com. They have always shipped same it next day when I've ordered.

Has anyone setup the 12864 LCD with the marlin firmware?
If yes can you share what is define in the sketch to get it to work?

Quote
Fozzie1410
Does anybody know where I can find a replacement for the push to connect coupling that goes into the top of the hotend? Mine won't grip the tube anymore. I'm having trouble figuring out what size this part is. I've asked the FolgerTech folks if they sell replacements, but no response yet. I'm sure they'll respond eventually, but I'd like to get up and running as soon as I can.

[www.ebay.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/15/2015 10:25PM by iceman62.

I saw those couplers on FolgerTech's website, but those look like the fittings that attach to the extruder end. The fitting that attaches to the hot end has a much larger diameter screw. I tried measuring the diameter and I think it is 3/8 inch, but I'm not sure.

I have been trying for a few hours to get auto-home to work. I have quadruple-checked the wiring, cable stress, required lengths reflected in the firmware, etc but it always does X perfect, Y good ( when near the top) and then Z drops. I have tried inverting each axis (#define INVERT_Z_DIR) but it only helped the Y axis.

example: [www.youtube.com]

I followed the manual to the letter, but since this is my first printer build I am not sure what else to do. Any suggestions are very much appreciated.

Also, they forgot the auto-level switch but I followed the instructions as if I had one. If I want to disable, do I need to change anything in the firmware?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2015 01:00AM by Plasticmonkey.

Quote
iceman62
Has anyone setup the 12864 LCD with the marlin firmware?
If yes can you share what is define in the sketch to get it to work?

I got my 12864 working by just un-commenting out the line below and installing the u8glib library in the arduino IDE...

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

but not sure if I am the best to give advice since I am still stuck on calibrating...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2015 12:54AM by Plasticmonkey.

Quote
Plasticmonkey

Quote
iceman62
Has anyone setup the 12864 LCD with the marlin firmware?
If yes can you share what is define in the sketch to get it to work?

I got my 12864 working by just un-commenting out the line below and installing the u8glib library in the arduino IDE...

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

but not sure if I am the best to give advice since I am still stuck on calibrating...

Thanks yes I un-commenting

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

and loaded "u8glib arduino v1.17" Which version did you use?

And did you change anything else in the firmware?

My 12864 LCD lights up but I don't get anyinformation on the screen.

Quote
Plasticmonkey
I have been trying for a few hours to get auto-home to work. I have quadruple-checked the wiring, cable stress, required lengths reflected in the firmware, etc but it always does X perfect, Y good ( when near the top) and then Z drops. I have tried inverting each axis (#define INVERT_Z_DIR) but it only helped the Y axis.

example: [www.youtube.com]

I followed the manual to the letter, but since this is my first printer build I am not sure what else to do. Any suggestions are very much appreciated.

Also, they forgot the auto-level switch but I followed the instructions as if I had one. If I want to disable, do I need to change anything in the firmware?

For the reversed axis when homing, check that the stepper connector is oriented correctly on the RAMPS board. Then re-check your vref on the stepper driver (last step in the build manual)

If you want to disable the auto level routine in slicer or cura, just comment out the following lines in your start gcode with a ;

G1 Z10 F4000
M280 P0 S5
G29
M280 P0 S120
G1 X0 Y0

That should bypass the autolevel routine.

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Strange, the extruder motor feed coupler and the effector coupler are identical on mine.

OK when I purchased my Kossel Printer from Folger Tech I called and spoke to Nate, who attached a Marlin FW to an email and emailed it to me

which was great because the printer worked and my 2004 LCD worked, but if i use the Folgertech_Kossel_Firmware(V2) from the google drive,

my extruder motor runs backwards and the filament backs back out. Why is that?

Also I am trying to switch to the 12864 LCD and I have tried.

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

and loaded "u8glib arduino v1.17" .... But No Joy only lights up no information on the display.

I noticed that if you use Repetier firmware, the motors run one direction and the Marlin firmware runs the other. One solution is to reverse the stepper motor connector so the red wire is on the power supply side of the board with Repitier and the black wire is on the power supply side for Marlin firmware. Annother solution is to just set the direction of the motors in firmware.