Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

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Deguello

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thevisad
Aluminum has a .2 inductive profile...

I wonder if a 16 gauge stainless steel disc would work under glass?

This shows .4 for the aluminum and it is definitely not that. I have to be 2 MM away to detect it, I tried copper and it matches the aluminum profile. According to this chrome/nickle would be the best. I can test some stainless that I have to see if it will trigger it like the chrome. All my sensors trigger at roughly the same location, whether they are 4mm or 12mm detection. There is another sensor that is inductive prox that works on anything in its field. I am looking for that one, but I am moving over to FSR sensors as they will detect when the tip touches the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2015 12:03PM by thevisad.

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thevisad

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Deguello

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thevisad
Aluminum has a .2 inductive profile...

I wonder if a 16 gauge stainless steel disc would work under glass?

This shows .4 for the aluminum and it is definitely not that. I have to be 2 MM away to detect it, I tried copper and it matches the aluminum profile. According to this chrome/nickle would be the best. I can test some stainless that I have to see if it will trigger it like the chrome. All my sensors trigger at roughly the same location, whether they are 4mm or 12mm detection. There is another sensor that is inductive prox that works on anything in its field. I am looking for that one, but I am moving over to FSR sensors as they will detect when the tip touches the bed.

Don't forget the heat conductive index:
copper 401
aluminum 273
brass 159
stainless steel 16.3
Source(s): [en.wikipedia.org]

Instead of an inductive proximity sensor, look at the capacitive ones. US$ 13.50 for a 25mm sensing distance, [tinyurl.com]

Rick

Print results not spectacular. I hairsprayed the bed and it started fine. Got a little lifting in one corner and as the job went on lots of boogers from the nozzle. I'll post a pic in a moment.

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llamatrails

Instead of an inductive proximity sensor, look at the capacitive ones. US$ 13.50 for a 25mm sensing distance, [tinyurl.com]

Rick

That's the ones! Thanks man, I will order a few of those right away.

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bluesmike
Print results not spectacular. I hairsprayed the bed and it started fine. Got a little lifting in one corner and as the job went on lots of boogers from the nozzle. I'll post a pic in a moment.

I like support, it takes more filament and time, but the prints are... well you decide.





Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2015 04:01PM by thevisad.

Oh nice! I think my issue now is bed adhesion. I tried hair spray and it did ok, next I tried glue stick, not so great. I'm going to hit Microcenter and pickup some Kapton (sp?) sheets. They actually have it in sheets. I had picked up a spool of ABS, maybe I should have started off with PLA.

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bluesmike
Oh nice! I think my issue now is bed adhesion. I tried hair spray and it did ok, next I tried glue stick, not so great. I'm going to hit Microcenter and pickup some Kapton (sp?) sheets. They actually have it in sheets. I had picked up a spool of ABS, maybe I should have started off with PLA.

Kapton is the brand by 3m and is pricey, Koptan is the chinese knockoff of the same type of stuff and well, works. Heatguns/Soldering irons should not melt it or leave a mark on it. The stuff I got from eBay was marked Koptan and took a 1500 watt heat gun full blast for 1 minute before I gave up. Folger has a 100 foot roll of it in 200mm width on ebay for 22$. Just be aware of the price you might pay at Microcenter. They carry a4988 drivers for 14.99, a piece. You can use the 2 inch wide stuff, but its hard to get the tape just right. A trick is to use Windex on the heatbed and spray it so its dripping, then lay the tape on. It prevents the tape from sticking until most of the windex is out and just line up the seams as close as possible. Use a squeegee to get the bubbles out before its dry. I switched over to glass after laying out the tape 4 times, then ripping it off 5 minutes later when the print head wasn't calibrated right and it decided to remove it/shred it for me. The seams were part of the issue, as the head would clip the seam and eventually peel it up a bit. I gave up as the glass/hairspray works almost as good as the kapton did. You just have to put it on like a girls night out to prom, it should be a little thick, my mirror is hazy.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2015 10:39PM by thevisad.

I have been finally assembling my printer. Its looking and coming together great. One question, in the manual it calls for m3x10mm cap head screws but I didnt get these in the package. not even listed as one of the items in the screw bag. Anybody else get this or do you just use other screws? I bought some at HD thinking I can get by but now I got to go back as I didnt buy enough. Not a big deal, if thats the worse then Ill be a ok. Just wondering if anyone else has this same issue. Also didnt get any kapton tape.

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cman8
m3x10mm cap head screws

When I complained about this Folger said there was a misprint in the manual and that M3x8 screws would fit. They will, but it's a real pain. Go back to HD...

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Deguello

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cman8
m3x10mm cap head screws

When I complained about this Folger said there was a misprint in the manual and that M3x8 screws would fit. They will, but it's a real pain. Go back to HD...

If you can wait a few days, you can get a lot of your screws from here at a really good price. Gino ships his parts fast https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com

I have the same issue . . . the label on the hardware bag says there should be 90 M3x10, and I got 0 . . . in M3x8, I got 36, and in M3x12, I got 12. The M3x12 are too long for the motors, so that's out, and reading to current manual variant, I quit counting at about 80 M3x8 required, so this is a 'no joy' situation, so it's off to the hardware store for a box of 100 M3x10, and should be good to go!

Would it really be that hard to get the physical unit, the hardware pack label, and the docs to match? I did a quick audit on type/count in about 10 minutes, and it sure would save them a lot of time on questions.

- Tim

You want to use the m3x8 for attaching the slider rails to the towers, the m3x10 work well for nearly everything else.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2015 03:23PM by Djkingsley.

I kinda gathered that, but Folger shipped *ZERO* M3x10 hardware with my kit. . . .and the 8mm have almost no extra length in the T nuts.

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2015 03:49PM by tadawson.

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tadawson
I kinda gathered that, but Folger shipped *ZERO* M3x10 hardware with my kit. . . .and the 8mm have almost no extra length in the T nuts.

- Tim

I read this as a DIY kit of parts, that once assembled should provide a functional printer. Once you put a little bit of effort and elbow grease into the project of course. Folgertech definitely goes above and beyond in supporting the printer, so if it's an issue? Reach out to them, I am sure they will make it correct. I bought a kit, fully expecting to have mismatched parts and was pleasantly surprised to find only screws an issue. If this was labeled as an unassembled printer, instead of a printer kit then I would expect a 100% working printer from the parts I received.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2015 04:41PM by thevisad.

Do yourself a favor spend the $11 bucks and get 200 of these M3x8 screws. They are great.
M3x8mm screws black

Best upgrade I made to this machine (so far). I too was short on M3x8 screws.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2015 06:06PM by Wittmason.

Eh, looks good, but don't want to wait. I have a good hardware store and Fastenal close, so I'll eat the few bucks and buy locally. I was going to go with M3x10, unless they bind in the track, since there is almost no wiggle room that I can see with the 8mm hardware.

- Tim

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tadawson
...M3x10, unless they bind in the track...

M3x10 will work almost everywhere on the machine, and MUCH better on the acrylic parts.

I have been playing with my printer working out all the kinks for the last two weeks. Tonight I took all the wire caps and new spool arm and installed them cleaning up all the wire runs in the process. Looks much better, and the new spool arm works much better even if it's upside down.



Next, I have to figure out why the lcd/sd card squeals when I plug it in.

Cool. Thanks all. Just went and bought another 40 M3x10mm. for 6 bucks no worries. would do it again. Everything else has been coming together great.

Djkingsleyn what are you using for wire management on your extrusions, that looks very clean.

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coshtor
Djkingsleyn what are you using for wire management on your extrusions, that looks very clean.

I agree, it looks sharp.

Given the issue of hot motors I just ordered aluminium-corners from Robot-digg, I was thinking that that in conjunction with some heat-conductive paste should take care of the issue.

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coshtor
Djkingsleyn what are you using for wire management on your extrusions, that looks very clean.

I designed some snap in caps about 10 cm long and lay the wire in the extrusion then press the caps on. I print four at a time, but you could easily increase that (I used 14 in total). These are printed as hollow objects with a single wall thickness so you really have to have the printer dialed in before trying to print them. I used the Marlin firmware from the head of the Git repository, slic3r 1.2.6 and Pronterface for the printing and Rhino 5 for the design development.

That F! N! z probe arm got hung up in one of the belts and made about a 5 hour birds nest ... Don't leave your machine unatteneded (at least don't leave your house with the thing running.)

stops printing?! Im trying to print a small file. I had one successful print today. After that I tried one job from the SD card and it started but the LCD dimmed out, the fan slowed and it hung never to print the job. The bed and hotend did get up to temp. I thought maybe it was the LCD/SD causing the issue so I disconnected it. So I plugged the USB back in and tried again. Three jobs got to various points and just hung. I double checked all my connections and tried again. The next job went to 96% and stopped. I just tried again and it got to 54% and stopped. It just stops (never in the same spot) and the USB drops the connection from the laptop. I have to shutdown the printer, disconnect the USB and fire it backup before it will allow the laptop to reconnect. Thoughts?

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bluesmike
stops printing?! Im trying to print a small file. I had one successful print today. After that I tried one job from the SD card and it started but the LCD dimmed out, the fan slowed and it hung never to print the job. The bed and hotend did get up to temp. I thought maybe it was the LCD/SD causing the issue so I disconnected it. So I plugged the USB back in and tried again. Three jobs got to various points and just hung. I double checked all my connections and tried again. The next job went to 96% and stopped. I just tried again and it got to 54% and stopped. It just stops (never in the same spot) and the USB drops the connection from the laptop. I have to shutdown the printer, disconnect the USB and fire it backup before it will allow the laptop to reconnect. Thoughts?

What is the condition of the cable you are using to connect it to the laptop? I started off using a very cheap 6' long USB A to B cable from an old printer but could not get communication to establish. It kept displaying gibberish in pronterface very similar to what it does if you have the baudrate set incorrectly. I switched to the very short cable supplied with the kit and no issues(other than having to move my laptop closer to the printer than I preferred). I picked up a higher quality 10' cable and it is working well.

I suspected the cable because although short, the cable that came with the kit was much higher quality construction/materials than my 6' cable.

Hope this helps.

Thanks J - I swapped cables as well as raised the printer up 2" and put an 80MM fan blowing across the Arduino and RAMPS boards. The bed heated up fine but as soon as the hot end started to heat I received a min temp warning and it shut down. Im going to fire it up in a moment after letting it sit all night and see what happens,

I think MINTEMP defaults to 5, so this would tend to make me think you have a problem with your hot end thermistor, or the value was errantly set to something else.

- Tim

Well, I received my kit on monday (ordered 4/5) and tonight I had the pleasure of starting the build with my children. Thank you all for the insight and tips as this is my first printer and you guys here have already given what I think is a great headstart into this addiction.

I hit Microcenter on Saturday and ended up replacing the RAMPS board and the Arduino and now everything is working fine. When the power supply went I think it may have damaged the RAMPS board. Im going to order a piece of 8" round tempered glass for the heat bed and see how that works.