Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

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davidf01

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Koenig

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davidf01

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tadawson

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davidf01

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tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

As others have already stated, either an obstruction in the filament path, or you don't have the driver voltage set correctly for the extruder . . . on the Folger 2020 (well, at least mine) the extruder motor is totally different than the axis motors, and would not feed reliably until I set .85 to .9 volts as VRef for it . . . and it runs barely warm on multi hour jobs at that setting. Unless they have updated, the manual setting for this is just plain wrong . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim. I'm going to bump up the extruder VRef and see how it goes. I did end up getting some flow from the filament so we will see. My problem now it I get a sample model sliced
and then load the g-code into Pronterface. When I start the print it does what it should and waits till the bed and hotend are heated up and starts printing. The problem is there is no Z movement so it is printing
in mid air. I have no clue why this is printing in mid air instead of down at the bed.

Could it be that your endstops is set as MIN instead of MAX, then the printer would think that it is at Z=0 when you home it, this might have affected your previous problem as well.

Ok that sounds like I should check it. That endstop min/max thing is in the firmmware correct? I'm gonna have to figure that out.

Yes it is in configuration.h.

It is what tells the firmware if the endstop sits at the low end or high end of an axis.

I take it you didn't download FolgerTechs firmware, they these things preconfigured and you only have to edit a few values, if you downloaded a branch of marlin from github I suggest you also download Folgertechs version and then compare the differences in the configuration.h

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

As others have already stated, either an obstruction in the filament path, or you don't have the driver voltage set correctly for the extruder . . . on the Folger 2020 (well, at least mine) the extruder motor is totally different than the axis motors, and would not feed reliably until I set .85 to .9 volts as VRef for it . . . and it runs barely warm on multi hour jobs at that setting. Unless they have updated, the manual setting for this is just plain wrong . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim. I'm going to bump up the extruder VRef and see how it goes. I did end up getting some flow from the filament so we will see. My problem now it I get a sample model sliced
and then load the g-code into Pronterface. When I start the print it does what it should and waits till the bed and hotend are heated up and starts printing. The problem is there is no Z movement so it is printing
in mid air. I have no clue why this is printing in mid air instead of down at the bed.

Could it be that your endstops is set as MIN instead of MAX, then the printer would think that it is at Z=0 when you home it, this might have affected your previous problem as well.

Ok that sounds like I should check it. That endstop min/max thing is in the firmmware correct? I'm gonna have to figure that out.

Yes it is in configuration.h.

It is what tells the firmware if the endstop sits at the low end or high end of an axis.

I take it you didn't download FolgerTechs firmware, they these things preconfigured and you only have to edit a few values, if you downloaded a branch of marlin from github I suggest you also download Folgertechs version and then compare the differences in the configuration.h

I did download folgers firmware. There were two on the google docs page and both worked about the same. I had the kosselRevB and a kosselREVBPE to use. The revB model had no instructions for installing the software and I was trying
to use the instructions for Rev A but a lot of it didn't apply. I still dont know how to get the auto level working.

Here are my endstop settings. If I set the first two to false it does not help. The printer does the same thing. Everything heats up right the when it starts to print it just sits
there with no movement.

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

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davidf01
Here are my endstop settings. If I set the first two to false it does not help. The printer does the same thing. Everything heats up right the when it starts to print it just sits
there with no movement.

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

Comparing that to TheVisad's firmware which I'm running, it looks right...

So this is what I have going on. I load a sliced model in pronterface. Heat the bed to 200 and the hotend to 65 (printing PLA) and click print.
Once the hotend and bed get to the right temperature it sounds like the printer starts to print but all I get is small pulses and no movement from the printer.
It just sits there and pulses forever. I'm not sure what else I can check?

Here is the start of the gcode made from slic3r in case the problem is in the Gcode.
; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2015-09-08 at 00:05:28

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.67mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.67mm

M107
M190 S65 ; set bed temperature
M104 S210 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

M109 S210 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0
G1 Z0.280 F7800.000

Quote
davidf01
So this is what I have going on. I load a sliced model in pronterface. Heat the bed to 200 and the hotend to 65 (printing PLA) and click print.
Once the hotend and bed get to the right temperature it sounds like the printer starts to print but all I get is small pulses and no movement from the printer.
It just sits there and pulses forever. I'm not sure what else I can check?

Here is the start of the gcode made from slic3r in case the problem is in the Gcode.
; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2015-09-08 at 00:05:28

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.67mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.67mm

M107
M190 S65 ; set bed temperature
M104 S210 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

M109 S210 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0
G1 Z0.280 F7800.000

Not sure if it is your problem but I don't think the Mega can do 130mm/s on a delta.

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davidf01
So this is what I have going on. I load a sliced model in pronterface. Heat the bed to 200 and the hotend to 65 (printing PLA) and click print.
Once the hotend and bed get to the right temperature it sounds like the printer starts to print but all I get is small pulses and no movement from the printer.
It just sits there and pulses forever. I'm not sure what else I can check?

Here is the start of the gcode made from slic3r in case the problem is in the Gcode.
; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2015-09-08 at 00:05:28

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.67mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.67mm

M107
M190 S65 ; set bed temperature
M104 S210 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

M109 S210 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0
G1 Z0.280 F7800.000

You dropped a ; at M107, G92 and G1, correct those it looks like one long command to the printer.

When you are connected to the printer via pronterface it will kick back a steady stream of information. The information contains the hotend temperature and the bed temperature. You should see this increasing, when it is ready to print it will give a count down from 10.

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thevisad

Quote
davidf01
So this is what I have going on. I load a sliced model in pronterface. Heat the bed to 200 and the hotend to 65 (printing PLA) and click print.
Once the hotend and bed get to the right temperature it sounds like the printer starts to print but all I get is small pulses and no movement from the printer.
It just sits there and pulses forever. I'm not sure what else I can check?

Here is the start of the gcode made from slic3r in case the problem is in the Gcode.
; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2015-09-08 at 00:05:28

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.67mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.67mm

M107
M190 S65 ; set bed temperature
M104 S210 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

M109 S210 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0
G1 Z0.280 F7800.000

You dropped a ; at M107, G92 and G1, correct those it looks like one long command to the printer.

When you are connected to the printer via pronterface it will kick back a steady stream of information. The information contains the hotend temperature and the bed temperature. You should see this increasing, when it is ready to print it will give a count down from 10.

That is strange I just copied it from slic3r to this page. I will try adding the; to the code and see what it does. Can slic3r not be adding the; to the code? I did download a new version because when I started it the first time it said a update was available. Should I go back to an earlier version? The only message I get is that printing started at and then it gives the time. Once the temps get to where they should be nothing happens.

Should I put the ; at G1? it seems like all the G1s dont have the ; there.

M109 S210 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0;
G1 Z0.280 F7800.000
G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000
G92 E0
G1 X21.436 Y-1.656 F7800.000
G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000
G1 X22.453 Y11.499 E2.76786 F1800.000
G1 X22.433 Y12.709 E2.83824
G1 X22.285 Y14.060 E2.91738
G1 X22.007 Y15.357 E2.99453
G1 X21.527 Y16.837 E3.08508
G1 X19.622 Y22.184 E3.41545
G1 X18.496 Y24.157 E3.54764
G1 X16.761 Y25.623 E3.67983
G1 X13.500 Y26.500 E3.87633
G1 X-13.500 Y26.500 E5.44760
G1 X-15.737 Y26.103 E5.57979

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/08/2015 11:48AM by davidf01.

Quote
davidf01

That is strange I just copied it from slic3r to this page. I will try adding the; to the code and see what it does. Can slic3r not be adding the; to the code? I did download a new version because when I started it the first time it said a update was available. Should I go back to an earlier version? The only message I get is that printing started at and then it gives the time. Once the temps get to where they should be nothing happens.

Should I put the ; at G1? it seems like all the G1s dont have the ; there.

No I wouldn't, it's not needed per se, from what I understand it's the designator between command and comment. I have noted issues in the scripts when dropping the ; between commands as the printer seemed to interpret these as a single long command.

I am more concerned with the feedback you are getting from the printer, can you post 5-10 lines of what the printer is spitting back at you when connected and trying to heat the hotend/hotbed?

According to the Wiki

Gcode comments begin at a semicolon, and end at the end of the line:
N3 T0*57 ; This is a comment
N4 G92 E0*67
; So is this
N5 G28*22
Comments and white space will be ignored by your RepRap Printer.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/08/2015 12:51PM by thevisad.

ok I got it to print my first print. Not sure what did it but I changed the speed in slic3r to 100 mm/sec to match pronterface. Now I'm trying to
calibrate the extruder rate. Does anyone know where you find the Esteps number in the firmware? I using this video to do the extruder calibration.

[youtu.be]

Still trying to figure out how to auto level.

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thevisad

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swago

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djtrance2
Still have a few questions as the printer is nearly working but not really.

1-
x and y move 10mm when we see 10mm on the LCD screen
z moves 65mm instead of 2mm as shown on the LCD screen
Why is the z axis moving 32.5x more than it should? is the stepper motor defective?
I see that if I go in control-->motion--> zstep is 2500steps/mm and x and y are 85steps/mm

2- what position is the carriage supposed to be at when set to 0mm?

3- the limit switches and the z-probe don't stop the motors. When I do autohome, the carriage goes all the way to the limit switch, hits it and keeps hitting until it runs out of motion. It does not stop the stepper motors! I do see the red LED light up when I press on the limit switch, but nothing is stopped.

4- The same goes for the z-probe, the probe gets close to the board, the light is on, but it lights up brighter when the probe gets close to the bed, but again, the stepper motors are still going.

Having the exact same issue as your number 3 and 4.
This with DavidF01 might be related to my problem.
The M119 command returns correctly with z-min being triggered when its close to the plate but it seems to be ignored by the config
I don't think I have wired anything wrong with the gcodes returning correctly but I could be wrong.

You have something wired wrong, the light is supposed to be off until it gets near an object.

No it comes on when it gets near the bed, the end stops only come on when they hit. This includes their tiggered status so wiring is good.

A friend was able to rebuild me a config that actually works with the home command sending it up instead of down into the bed.
So I'm good for now, thanks.

Just throwing a question out there. How do you guys go about tuning your printers? Do you have a procedure you go through
to tune the printer? do you start with tuning the extruder rate, hotend temp, print speed (is 100 mm/s to fast?) bed heat, layer height, ect ect.

I'm just trying to figure out how to get this printer up to quality prints and I'm having a hell of a time.

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davidf01
Just throwing a question out there. How do you guys go about tuning your printers? Do you have a procedure you go through
to tune the printer? do you start with tuning the extruder rate, hotend temp, print speed (is 100 mm/s to fast?) bed heat, layer height, ect ect.

I'm just trying to figure out how to get this printer up to quality prints and I'm having a hell of a time.

First you need to calibrate it to get the height correct and the effector moving absolutely flat, on my initial setup using RAMPS and Marlin I cherry-picked from this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDLbqLve128]video[/url] and these two instructions Link 1 Link 2

Once you have the effector moving absolutely flat above the surface I checked if my extruder fed the correct amount of filament (described in one of the links), I did not have to correct anything here the pre-configured configuration.h provided by FolgerTech was spot on.
But remember you have to measure the filament you are using on several spots and calculate a mean value to put in your slicer software. This varies with each manufacturer/color of filament, so it have to be done each time you get a new roll

For the hotend temperatures I find that printing a tall test "cube" decreasing the temperature in 5-10 degree increments each 50th layer (1cm on 0.2 layer-height) until the extruder starts skipping steps and then analyse the result, see where on the cube it looks best, for PLA I'd start somewhere around 235 degrees. This is also varying between each manufacturer/color of filament

For the bed temperatures I found that the recommendations, different for each manufacturer, works real good +- 10 degrees. If the part doesn't stick raise the temp for next print 5-10 degrees.

Note down all your values for each roll of filament, makes life easier the next time you buy a roll of the same color and manufacturer.

About print-speed, I's start around 20-25mm/s and go up from that, printing slow makes it easier to spot settings that are off, such as extrusionrate (also varies between different filaments), retraction settings (also varies between different filaments, wiping/coasting (also varies...), overlaps, etc etc....

You probably are going to find that you have worked your way through an entire roll of filament before all initial kinks have been worked out.

EDIT: A decent test-cube for testing the hotend temp: [www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 09/09/2015 01:20AM by Koenig.

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Koenig

Quote
davidf01
Just throwing a question out there. How do you guys go about tuning your printers? Do you have a procedure you go through
to tune the printer? do you start with tuning the extruder rate, hotend temp, print speed (is 100 mm/s to fast?) bed heat, layer height, ect ect.

I'm just trying to figure out how to get this printer up to quality prints and I'm having a hell of a time.

First you need to calibrate it to get the height correct and the effector moving absolutely flat, on my initial setup using RAMPS and Marlin I cherry-picked from this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDLbqLve128]video[/url] and these two instructions Link 1 Link 2

Once you have the effector moving absolutely flat above the surface I checked if my extruder fed the correct amount of filament (described in one of the links), I did not have to correct anything here the pre-configured configuration.h provided by FolgerTech was spot on.
But remember you have to measure the filament you are using on several spots and calculate a mean value to put in your slicer software. This varies with each manufacturer/color of filament, so it have to be done each time you get a new roll

For the hotend temperatures I find that printing a tall test "cube" decreasing the temperature in 5-10 degree increments each 50th layer (1cm on 0.2 layer-height) until the extruder starts skipping steps and then analyse the result, see where on the cube it looks best, for PLA I'd start somewhere around 235 degrees. This is also varying between each manufacturer/color of filament

For the bed temperatures I found that the recommendations, different for each manufacturer, works real good +- 10 degrees. If the part doesn't stick raise the temp for next print 5-10 degrees.

Note down all your values for each roll of filament, makes life easier the next time you buy a roll of the same color and manufacturer.

About print-speed, I's start around 20-25mm/s and go up from that, printing slow makes it easier to spot settings that are off, such as extrusionrate (also varies between different filaments), retraction settings (also varies between different filaments, wiping/coasting (also varies...), overlaps, etc etc....

You probably are going to find that you have worked your way through an entire roll of filament before all initial kinks have been worked out.

EDIT: A decent test-cube for testing the hotend temp: [www.thingiverse.com]

Koenig,

Good stuff here. Thank you for the links and the description of the process.

So when I edit using the M665 and M666 commands where does it save the information? Does it save it directly to the printers firmware and if so how do I get the saved information
into the firmware I upload using Arduino?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/09/2015 10:40AM by davidf01.

Quote
davidf01

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01
Just throwing a question out there. How do you guys go about tuning your printers? Do you have a procedure you go through
to tune the printer? do you start with tuning the extruder rate, hotend temp, print speed (is 100 mm/s to fast?) bed heat, layer height, ect ect.

I'm just trying to figure out how to get this printer up to quality prints and I'm having a hell of a time.

First you need to calibrate it to get the height correct and the effector moving absolutely flat, on my initial setup using RAMPS and Marlin I cherry-picked from this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDLbqLve128]video[/url] and these two instructions Link 1 Link 2

Once you have the effector moving absolutely flat above the surface I checked if my extruder fed the correct amount of filament (described in one of the links), I did not have to correct anything here the pre-configured configuration.h provided by FolgerTech was spot on.
But remember you have to measure the filament you are using on several spots and calculate a mean value to put in your slicer software. This varies with each manufacturer/color of filament, so it have to be done each time you get a new roll

For the hotend temperatures I find that printing a tall test "cube" decreasing the temperature in 5-10 degree increments each 50th layer (1cm on 0.2 layer-height) until the extruder starts skipping steps and then analyse the result, see where on the cube it looks best, for PLA I'd start somewhere around 235 degrees. This is also varying between each manufacturer/color of filament

For the bed temperatures I found that the recommendations, different for each manufacturer, works real good +- 10 degrees. If the part doesn't stick raise the temp for next print 5-10 degrees.

Note down all your values for each roll of filament, makes life easier the next time you buy a roll of the same color and manufacturer.

About print-speed, I's start around 20-25mm/s and go up from that, printing slow makes it easier to spot settings that are off, such as extrusionrate (also varies between different filaments), retraction settings (also varies between different filaments, wiping/coasting (also varies...), overlaps, etc etc....

You probably are going to find that you have worked your way through an entire roll of filament before all initial kinks have been worked out.

EDIT: A decent test-cube for testing the hotend temp: [www.thingiverse.com]

Koenig,

Good stuff here. Thank you for the links and the description of the process.

So when I edit using the M665 and M666 commands where does it save the information? Does it save it directly to the printers firmware and if so how do I get the saved information
into the firmware I upload using Arduino?

M500 saves it to the EEPROM, which overrides the firmware settings, that is good to have in mind because if you save something in the EEPROM and then alter a setting in the firmware, say delta-radius, the new setting in the firmware is going to be ignored, you have to change the EEPROM as well (or only).

Hey all -

Things have been going great with the printer - but i realized while trying to print my AT walker it's printing in reverse - it displays properly in cura, i save to SD and bring it to the reprapdiscount LCD and print it out, it's in reverse (the parts that were on the right side of the build plate before and they end up printing on the left side)

I got my larger LCD in the mail today (Reprapdiscount Full Graphic) and i had printed a case out for it, and now i see that the button placement is reversed (case has the openings on the left side and they're actually on the right)

Any ideas? gotta be something dumb that i'm overlooking!

Thanks

Quote
Rattfink
Hey all -

Things have been going great with the printer - but i realized while trying to print my AT walker it's printing in reverse - it displays properly in cura, i save to SD and bring it to the reprapdiscount LCD and print it out, it's in reverse (the parts that were on the right side of the build plate before and they end up printing on the left side)

I got my larger LCD in the mail today (Reprapdiscount Full Graphic) and i had printed a case out for it, and now i see that the button placement is reversed (case has the openings on the left side and they're actually on the right)

Any ideas? gotta be something dumb that i'm overlooking!

Thanks

This is just a wild guess, but you could try switching the plugs for your "front" two towers where they plug into the RAMPS board and see if that swaps things around...

Edit: Should be easy to quickly test. Before you swap them, connect with pronterface and see which way +x and +y go. switch the plugs, and see which way they go... Make sure you do small movements and have your finger on the power button in case it goes nuts!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/09/2015 10:10PM by wrangellboy.

This is a delta, right? All endstops should be set the same, since they reference the towers, and not the actual cartesian movements. So, looks like this will be "Set Z endstop inverting to 'true' for the win . . ."

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/10/2015 12:21PM by tadawson.

Quote
Tim
This is a delta, right? All endstops should be set the same, since they reference the towers, and not the actual cartesian movements. So, looks like this will be "Set Z endstop inverting to 'true' for the win . . ."

Tim, yea it's a delta - that makes sense to me!

I'll check that out first and then if that doesnt work i'll try wrangellboy's idea.. appreciate it you two!

So I finally got my printer to move- turns out all five of the stepper drivers were either DOA from Folger, or I fried them.

I'm going through the calibration steps and I'm having trouble getting it to drop all the way down to the bed. I think another member mentioned a similar problem, if anyone knows what page that was on I'd appreciate it.

I will type in the instructed

G1 Z# F4000

to lower it. Everything seems ok until the magnitude of the numbers needed are seen. The printer seems to max out at "Z-1000", with the nozzle still about 140mm from the print bed. Any numbers larger than Z-1000 doesn't drop it any lower.

Also if I use the X,Y zero button in Pronterface, thing runs away on the X-axis and I have to power it off...

const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

This line?

Can anyone tell me what the advantage is to calibrating using m665 and m666 verses just adjusting the firmware? I'm worried if I fire up the eeprom I may mess up what I have already. Could I just
update the same firmware values that eeprom would adjust?

Quote
Rattfink
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

This line?

Crap . . . after reading again, I realize that all the MAX endstops are correct . . . and I can't read. Since a Kossel only homes at MAX, I think you are already correct, and I need new glasses . . . . sorry . . . .

- Tim

Quote
Tim
Crap . . . after reading again, I realize that all the MAX endstops are correct . . . and I can't read. Since a Kossel only homes at MAX, I think you are already correct, and I need new glasses . . . . sorry . . . .

No Worries! i hadn't committed any changes anyway.

So I have my hot end setup correctly on the center of my build plate passing the paper test. When I get to my X, Y and Z towers the hot end does not pass the paper
test. The gap between the paper and hot end is to big. What is the best way to adjust this gap? I see lots of calibration tutorials saying adjust the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET
setting. Is that setting used for each tower adjustment? If I change it for my X tower wouldn't it mess the setting up for my Y tower? Or should I adjust the actual end stops?

Thanks

Follow this guide. Its the best. What I did is where it says "Now that you have a general idea for the Z height of the effector at each location, it's time to adjust the end stop screws until the effector is at the same Z height at the base of each tower. I prefer to just eyeball it to begin with." You have to manually loosen the endstops and either raise them or lower them depending how your off. Do this first and eyeball it, you will get so close like this that you could literally print almost after doing this. Then you do the rest to get it perfect wether it be convex or concave. This is by far the best tutorial IMHO when it comes to leveling all the towers.

Quote
davidf01
So I have my hot end setup correctly on the center of my build plate passing the paper test. When I get to my X, Y and Z towers the hot end does not pass the paper
test. The gap between the paper and hot end is to big. What is the best way to adjust this gap? I see lots of calibration tutorials saying adjust the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET
setting. Is that setting used for each tower adjustment? If I change it for my X tower wouldn't it mess the setting up for my Y tower? Or should I adjust the actual end stops?

Thanks

What you are actually adjusting with the "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" is the delta radius, don''t know why they have chosen to it this way in marlin. (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET is part of an equation to get the actual delta radius)

It seems you have started in the "wrong end" though, just make sure you set your "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS" so that the effector is ~2mm (ballpark, no need for any paper-test or anything of the sort) above the bed, then you start setting you endstops and when you have gotten so far that all your endstops pass the paper-test you go to the middle and slowly go down, when it passes the paper-test read off you Z position, M114, take that value and multiply it with 2.2 and subtract what you get from "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS".

Now you will have to start adjusting the endstops again, and when all endstops passes the paper-test you go to the middle and check again, this time you should be really close, so now you will have start making 0.5mm adjustments to the "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" (since the 2.2 value is based on that the rods are absolutely perpendicular to the bed at your tower positions we can not use it any more), either add or subtract depending on if you end up on Z+ or Z-, for each round you do this use smaller and smaller adjustments to "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" until you get a perfectly flat movevment across the bed

The page linked to in the previous post is good, but it doesn't mention anything about the 2.2 value to quicker get to a flat movement it doesn't mention M666 either, wich is a much better way to adjust the endstops if you don't have physical screws on the carriages which this kit doesn't have.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/12/2015 02:30AM by Koenig.

Quote
cman8
Follow this guide. Its the best. What I did is where it says "Now that you have a general idea for the Z height of the effector at each location, it's time to adjust the end stop screws until the effector is at the same Z height at the base of each tower. I prefer to just eyeball it to begin with." You have to manually loosen the endstops and either raise them or lower them depending how your off. Do this first and eyeball it, you will get so close like this that you could literally print almost after doing this. Then you do the rest to get it perfect wether it be convex or concave. This is by far the best tutorial IMHO when it comes to leveling all the towers.

Cman8,

Thanks for the info. I have been reading that guide but it was a little confusing. I'm slowly making more sense out of it now. I was wondering if we could drill and tap the to part of our sliders so we could add the screw to make it easier to adjust the end stops?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/12/2015 05:28PM by davidf01.

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01
So I have my hot end setup correctly on the center of my build plate passing the paper test. When I get to my X, Y and Z towers the hot end does not pass the paper
test. The gap between the paper and hot end is to big. What is the best way to adjust this gap? I see lots of calibration tutorials saying adjust the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET
setting. Is that setting used for each tower adjustment? If I change it for my X tower wouldn't it mess the setting up for my Y tower? Or should I adjust the actual end stops?

Thanks

What you are actually adjusting with the "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" is the delta radius, don''t know why they have chosen to it this way in marlin. (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET is part of an equation to get the actual delta radius)

It seems you have started in the "wrong end" though, just make sure you set your "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS" so that the effector is ~2mm (ballpark, no need for any paper-test or anything of the sort) above the bed, then you start setting you endstops and when you have gotten so far that all your endstops pass the paper-test you go to the middle and slowly go down, when it passes the paper-test read off you Z position, M114, take that value and multiply it with 2.2 and subtract what you get from "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS".

Now you will have to start adjusting the endstops again, and when all endstops passes the paper-test you go to the middle and check again, this time you should be really close, so now you will have start making 0.5mm adjustments to the "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" (since the 2.2 value is based on that the rods are absolutely perpendicular to the bed at your tower positions we can not use it any more), either add or subtract depending on if you end up on Z+ or Z-, for each round you do this use smaller and smaller adjustments to "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" until you get a perfectly flat movevment across the bed

The page linked to in the previous post is good, but it doesn't mention anything about the 2.2 value to quicker get to a flat movement it doesn't mention M666 either, wich is a much better way to adjust the endstops if you don't have physical screws on the carriages which this kit doesn't have.

Koenig,

So set my man Z home pos so the the tip of my hot end is about 2mm above the build plate. Then move it to the tower spots and adjust the endstops so that the hotend passes the paper test at each tower. Then move to the center and move it down slowly till it passes the paper test in the center? This is where you lose me on the 2.2 math. I have been reading about the M666 way of doing things but I'm confused on what that changes in the firmware and what would happen if I needed to change this again say in a month or so. Do I order your settings or can I find out what was changed and make those adjustment by hand in the firmware stop I can keep the changes hard coded?

Quote
davidf01

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01
So I have my hot end setup correctly on the center of my build plate passing the paper test. When I get to my X, Y and Z towers the hot end does not pass the paper
test. The gap between the paper and hot end is to big. What is the best way to adjust this gap? I see lots of calibration tutorials saying adjust the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET
setting. Is that setting used for each tower adjustment? If I change it for my X tower wouldn't it mess the setting up for my Y tower? Or should I adjust the actual end stops?

Thanks

What you are actually adjusting with the "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" is the delta radius, don''t know why they have chosen to it this way in marlin. (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET is part of an equation to get the actual delta radius)

It seems you have started in the "wrong end" though, just make sure you set your "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS" so that the effector is ~2mm (ballpark, no need for any paper-test or anything of the sort) above the bed, then you start setting you endstops and when you have gotten so far that all your endstops pass the paper-test you go to the middle and slowly go down, when it passes the paper-test read off you Z position, M114, take that value and multiply it with 2.2 and subtract what you get from "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS".

Now you will have to start adjusting the endstops again, and when all endstops passes the paper-test you go to the middle and check again, this time you should be really close, so now you will have start making 0.5mm adjustments to the "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" (since the 2.2 value is based on that the rods are absolutely perpendicular to the bed at your tower positions we can not use it any more), either add or subtract depending on if you end up on Z+ or Z-, for each round you do this use smaller and smaller adjustments to "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" until you get a perfectly flat movevment across the bed

The page linked to in the previous post is good, but it doesn't mention anything about the 2.2 value to quicker get to a flat movement it doesn't mention M666 either, wich is a much better way to adjust the endstops if you don't have physical screws on the carriages which this kit doesn't have.

Koenig,

So set my man Z home pos so the the tip of my hot end is about 2mm above the build plate. Then move it to the tower spots and adjust the endstops so that the hotend passes the paper test at each tower. Then move to the center and move it down slowly till it passes the paper test in the center? This is where you lose me on the 2.2 math. I have been reading about the M666 way of doing things but I'm confused on what that changes in the firmware and what would happen if I needed to change this again say in a month or so. Do I order your settings or can I find out what was changed and make those adjustment by hand in the firmware stop I can keep the changes hard coded?

M666 doesn't change anything in the firmware, here's a good video about calibrating using M666, it is a parameter that can be stored in the EEPROM.

wiki-page about EEPROM

Here's some M-codes dealing with EEPROM.

The parameters stored in the EEPROM overrides the values from the firmware, which means you can alter them as you need without having to flash the firmware again.

I don't even know if you can adjust your endstops in the firmware, never tried.

When you have adjusted you endstops so they pass the paper-test you do one in the center, when you feel satisfied, you issue a M114 and read the Z-value, multiply that with 2.2 and subtract what you get from "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET", that should bring you close but not all the way to where you want to be in the end.

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 09/12/2015 11:08AM by Koenig.