Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Quote
fattmann

Quote
thevisad

Quote
fattmann
What screw type did you use to attach the Z-probe switch to the servo? None of the hardware that came with my kit (Rev B ) will fit in the hole. All the hardware is far too large, and the servo hole doesn't have threads, and the manual doesn't even mention mounting it.

I was going to ignore the auto leveling until I got it going, but I cannot for the love of me get it to stop traveling in a convex fashion. The rod offset value doesn't seem to be any where in reason, and I haven't found any suggestions as to why not. I'm hoping the auto level will help.

Read this guide on how to solve the convex issue. Auto leveling will not help this issue, you need to correct the offsets properly. There should be a small screw with very large head compared to its body, looks like this

Large_Servo_Mounting_Screws.jpg

That's what I figured I needed, that was not in my kit . Wouldn't be the only thing missing. I'll see what I can scrounge up, just didn't want to jam just anything in the hole.

I've looked at that guide before and had issues with some of the verbiage, as they assume you know the intricacies of the commands being used which I don't in all cases. I still haven't found a good primer on G-code commands. I will have to post again when I get home for the evening, as I'll have to look at my notes as to which parts of the guide I was having issues with. From what I remember the Z heights for the carriages were are traveling exactly the same and reported the same Z values, But I had to use something in the 500s to get the paper pinch to work.

(That's another thing no-one really explains- is it pinch the paper so you can't move it? Barely pinch the paper? Paper move freely? What thickness of paper? Thinner the better?)

Here's a good list of G-codes

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/24/2015 12:47PM by Koenig.

Quote
Koenig


Here's a good list of G-codes

Thank you! I'll take a look at that.

Quote
fattmann


That's what I figured I needed, that was not in my kit . Wouldn't be the only thing missing. I'll see what I can scrounge up, just didn't want to jam just anything in the hole.

I've looked at that guide before and had issues with some of the verbiage, as they assume you know the intricacies of the commands being used which I don't in all cases. I still haven't found a good primer on G-code commands. I will have to post again when I get home for the evening, as I'll have to look at my notes as to which parts of the guide I was having issues with. From what I remember the Z heights for the carriages were are traveling exactly the same and reported the same Z values, But I had to use something in the 500s to get the paper pinch to work.

(That's another thing no-one really explains- is it pinch the paper so you can't move it? Barely pinch the paper? Paper move freely? What thickness of paper? Thinner the better?)

The paper used is standard 80 bond paper and you are supposed to make it just pinch and drag the paper between the points. You do not want to stop the paper completely and do not want it to be freely moving. You should feel a slight drag on the paper that is roughly the same at all points. The duet has half z movements that really help to dial into the correct height for this.

Before you go down this path, check to see if your beds actually level. Take a known flat surface (like the edge of a metal ruler) and place it against the bed in the middle. Try to rock it back and forth to see if it acts like a seesaw on the surface. Try in all different directions and make sure its flat across the surface of the disc. During my rebuild I was testing all sorts of designs and I found that my bed was not flat, but convex. During my initial build, I did not notice this and made my printer work to the bed surface and this made the printer no longer mechanically accurate. When I rebuilt it and mounted the bed to the aluminum plate instead of the acrylic I was able to use a rubber mallet to flatten the convex shape out of the bed. It was off roughly 2 mm across the entire surface, at .4 layer heights that's 5 layers that the beds accuracy was creating an issue for.

Quote
thevisad


The paper used is standard 80 bond paper and you are supposed to make it just pinch and drag the paper between the points. You do not want to stop the paper completely and do not want it to be freely moving. You should feel a slight drag on the paper that is roughly the same at all points. The duet has half z movements that really help to dial into the correct height for this.

Before you go down this path, check to see if your beds actually level. Take a known flat surface (like the edge of a metal ruler) and place it against the bed in the middle. ... It was off roughly 2 mm across the entire surface, at .4 layer heights that's 5 layers that the beds accuracy was creating an issue for.

Perfect, good info thanks!

Quote
thevisad
The paper used is standard 80 bond paper and you are supposed to make it just pinch and drag the paper between the points. You do not want to stop the paper completely and do not want it to be freely moving. You should feel a slight drag on the paper that is roughly the same at all points. The duet has half z movements that really help to dial into the correct height for this.

I found it easier to create macros for 0.05, 0.02 and 0.01mm both up and down, that way you get all commands needed for manual stepping on the same page (can be used in pronterface as well), so you don't have to go into settings and tick the settings for half steps and then go back again.

I seem to be getting filament leaking out of the nozzle from the threads. I think I saw a thread on here about what to do about it but I cant find it.
Do I just take it apart and clean out the melted filament then just crank it down harder? I seem to remember it being a little more involved then that.
How do I clean out the plastic?

Quote
davidf01
I seem to be getting filament leaking out of the nozzle from the threads. I think I saw a thread on here about what to do about it but I cant find it.
Do I just take it apart and clean out the melted filament then just crank it down harder? I seem to remember it being a little more involved then that.
How do I clean out the plastic?

Heat it up to ~230° C and then tighten the nozzle.
Look at the bottom of that page under "Final Tightening"

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01
I seem to be getting filament leaking out of the nozzle from the threads. I think I saw a thread on here about what to do about it but I cant find it.
Do I just take it apart and clean out the melted filament then just crank it down harder? I seem to remember it being a little more involved then that.
How do I clean out the plastic?

Heat it up to ~230° C and then tighten the nozzle.
Look at the bottom of that page under "Final Tightening"

Great, thank you for the link and information.

Quote
thevisad

Before you go down this path, check to see if your beds actually level. Take a known flat surface (like the edge of a metal ruler) and place it against the bed in the middle. Try to rock it back and forth to see if it acts like a seesaw on the surface. Try in all different directions and make sure its flat across the surface of the disc. During my rebuild I was testing all sorts of designs and I found that my bed was not flat, but convex. During my initial build, I did not notice this and made my printer work to the bed surface and this made the printer no longer mechanically accurate.

My aluminum heated bed from Folger Tech appears to be pretty damn flat using a metal ruler and a flashlight to see bleed through on irregularities. My MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS = 534.4. This allows me to pass the paper test at the center. The guide you pointed me towards assumes I have the adjustable endstop screw carriages, which I do not...

A bigger problem I just noticed is my "move Z 10mm" button in Pronterface only moves 6mm... My STEPS_PER_UNIT is at the default {80,80,80,100} for the 20 tooth pulley which is what I have.


EDIT: To clarify I just have a stock kit, with no upgrades. I feel like that Z_HOME_POS shouldn't be so large... but that is the only way I can get it to pinch a paper.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/24/2015 09:53PM by fattmann.

Quote
fattmann

A bigger problem I just noticed is my "move Z 10mm" button in Pronterface only moves 6mm... My STEPS_PER_UNIT is at the default {80,80,80,100} for the 20 tooth pulley which is what I have.


EDIT: To clarify I just have a stock kit, with no upgrades. I feel like that Z_HOME_POS shouldn't be so large... but that is the only way I can get it to pinch a paper.

I was mistaken about the 6mm. It's 5mm. All of my movement commands only move half the distance. I just checked that all the jumpers are in place under the stepper drivers, which they are. I even checked the continuity between the pins to make sure the jumpers are doing their job, which they are.

It sounds like you have either 0.9deg/step motors or DRV8825 driver modules. Either way, doubling the steps/mm to 160 and halving the Z home height should fix it, although Marlin on RAMPS will struggle at higher movement speeds. If the drivers are DRV8825 then you can probably change the jumpers to get 16x instead of 32x microstepping.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
It sounds like you have either 0.9deg/step motors or DRV8825 driver modules. Either way, doubling the steps/mm to 160 and halving the Z home height should fix it, although Marlin on RAMPS will struggle at higher movement speeds. If the drivers are DRV8825 then you can probably change the jumpers to get 16x instead of 32x microstepping.

Oh wow that's got to be it! I had to replace all my stepper drivers as the ones from Folger Tech were toast, and I ordered 8825s. I will try that tomorrow, thanks!

I have finally been able to get my printer to print some good quality objects. Most of them have only been 25 mm or less. I'm now
trying to calibrate larger size objects. I ran this first test and see that along the left side of the picture the filament is not able to
get extruded to the print bed. This line is when the print head goes from the Z Tower to the X Tower. I'm not sure what is going on there?
Could the nozzle be to close to the print bed at that one spot?

Also I have the auto level working but the pattern it uses is square. Is there a way to get it to auto level a round build plate like we have
on this printer?

Here is the picture of what is going on with larger prints.

Looks to me that your delta calibration is off. Auto bed compensation is no substitute for accurate delta calibration.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
Looks to me that your delta calibration is off. Auto bed compensation is no substitute for accurate delta calibration.

I was thinking the same thing. I think 1 am about as good as I can get doing it mechanically. I have turned on eeprom but I have issues
using the commands. Some things dont work like if I type g1 z20 nothing happens. When I do a G1 x0 y0 Z5 F4000 the print head travel the extent
and sits right on top of the print bed instead of stopping a z5.

I dont know much about eeprom so I have no idea of what to do to adjust things. I have been trying to follow this tutorial
[youtu.be] but some of the things are not working because some commands dont work. I cant step down if
the nozzle is 5mm above the bed because I cant get it to be 5mm above.

I may have figured something out. when I do the m114 command Z is showing Z MAX_POS. Should that be inverted? also
when I'm in the home position up against the endstops it reads X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:595.40 E:0.00. Something is wrong here but I'm not sure what to do about it.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 09/25/2015 08:33PM by davidf01.

Quote
dc42
It sounds like you have either 0.9deg/step motors or DRV8825 driver modules. Either way, doubling the steps/mm to 160 and halving the Z home height should fix it, although Marlin on RAMPS will struggle at higher movement speeds. If the drivers are DRV8825 then you can probably change the jumpers to get 16x instead of 32x microstepping.

I Don't understand how to force the 8825 down to 1/16 with the jumpers. I've found a few sites that say "only use the third jumper," but the RAMPS Wiki doesn't list that as a configuration option. Also I can't find anywhere that numbers the jumper pins- which side is 1 and which side is 3?

Quote
thevisad

Quote
fattmann
What screw type did you use to attach the Z-probe switch to the servo? None of the hardware that came with my kit (Rev B ) will fit in the hole. All the hardware is far too large, and the servo hole doesn't have threads, and the manual doesn't even mention mounting it.

I was going to ignore the auto leveling until I got it going, but I cannot for the love of me get it to stop traveling in a convex fashion. The rod offset value doesn't seem to be any where in reason, and I haven't found any suggestions as to why not. I'm hoping the auto level will help.

Read this guide on how to solve the convex issue. Auto leveling will not help this issue, you need to correct the offsets properly. There should be a small screw with very large head compared to its body, looks like this

Large_Servo_Mounting_Screws.jpg

These screws would be great but Folger has sent me the wrong sliders or something. I wont be able to screw them into anything. Here is a picture of why.
I have to add spacers to the sliders so the pulley cable would fit correctly.

Quote
cman8

Quote
Seriouspete
Thats a really nice clean looking build. I dont suppose you could link the spool holder and printed bed plate mount. I'm always in the market for something better.

I printed this Spool holder with these extension arms. It works great and I think looks cool. The bearing is awesome and glides rather smooth.

Bed plate mounts I printed these in version 2

Hey Cman8,

How did you go about printing this spool holder? It seems to be a bit large for this printer?

Quote
fattmann

Quote
dc42
It sounds like you have either 0.9deg/step motors or DRV8825 driver modules. Either way, doubling the steps/mm to 160 and halving the Z home height should fix it, although Marlin on RAMPS will struggle at higher movement speeds. If the drivers are DRV8825 then you can probably change the jumpers to get 16x instead of 32x microstepping.

I Don't understand how to force the 8825 down to 1/16 with the jumpers. I've found a few sites that say "only use the third jumper," but the RAMPS Wiki doesn't list that as a configuration option. Also I can't find anywhere that numbers the jumper pins- which side is 1 and which side is 3?

If you look at your RAMPS where the jumpers are you should see the text "MS1" and "MS3" at the top/bottom of the jumpers.

And here's a description of how to set them to the desired microstepping (unfortunately there's a typo on the setting for 1/8 setting, says 1/4 twice instead)

Quote
davidf01
I have turned on eeprom but I have issues using the commands. Some things dont work like if I type g1 z20 nothing happens. When I do a G1 x0 y0 Z5 F4000 the print head travel the extent
and sits right on top of the print bed instead of stopping a z5

That is because the printer is set to using absolute coordinates for the moves, meaning you have to specify coordinates in all the planes for it to travel there.

This can be disabled by using the command G90, but I recommend using the buttons in pronterface instead of playing around with that.

Quote
davidf01
I dont know much about eeprom so I have no idea of what to do to adjust things. I have been trying to follow this tutorial
[youtu.be] but some of the things are not working because some commands dont work.

It is a bit of a gamble which commands works with which version of Marlin you are using in regards to the EEPROM settings.
You can do some trial and error, change a setting and test, if there's no difference it doesn't work.
Maybe the best way is to jump on the latest version of Marlin, if that is the firmware of your choice, that way the commands ought to work and you would probably get more accurate support.
From what I read here in the forums many prefer to use Repetier with deltas.

Quote
davidf01
I cant step down if the nozzle is 5mm above the bed because I cant get it to be 5mm above.

Something in your setting isn't right.
If you command it to go to "X0 Y0 Z5", it should stop 5mm above the center of the bed.

Quote
davidf01
I may have figured something out. when I do the m114 command Z is showing Z MAX_POS. Should that be inverted?

Why should you invert it?, what would you gain by inverting it?, what is the implification of inverting it?
M114 is only reporting the current position, nothing else. The link here is a good way to find out about different commands, what do they do and which firmware do they work on.

Quote
davidf01
also when I'm in the home position up against the endstops it reads X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:595.40 E:0.00. Something is wrong here but I'm not sure what to do about it.

When you have homed your delta the Z-value you get when a M114 is issued should be the actual height of the tip of the nozzle over the bed and should be very near the "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS" setting in the firmware.
Z:595.40 seems something like twice what it should be if you haven't replaced the original tower extrusions with taller ones.

What to do?
What are your steps/mm set to and what drivers are you using.

Quote
davidf01
These screws would be great but Folger has sent me the wrong sliders or something. I wont be able to screw them into anything. Here is a picture of why.
I have to add spacers to the sliders so the pulley cable would fit correctly.

I think he was answering your question about how to attach your Z-probe, by describing how the screw to attach it with should look like, don't see how this has anything to do with the "sliders".

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2015 03:21AM by Koenig.

So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer
so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is
higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bed it is only off a pinch. Do I try to level the print bed
or do I continue adjusting the endstops?

Quote
davidf01
So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer
so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is
higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bed it is only off a pinch. Do I try to level the print bed
or do I continue adjusting the endstops?

Your bed is not mechanically flat, you need to try and get it as flat to the printer as possible, looks like one side is at a slope.

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01
So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer
so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is
higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bed it is only off a pinch. Do I try to level the print bed
or do I continue adjusting the endstops?

Your bed is not mechanically flat, you need to try and get it as flat to the printer as possible, looks like one side is at a slope.

Thanks for the help. Is there something I can buy that mounts the bed to the printer and has an adjustment on it that helps you level the bed? Something like
the adjustment screw for the end stops?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2015 06:05PM by davidf01.

an easy way to adjust the bed level is to screw the bed down with a spring underneath each screw. You can then loosen or tighten each screw to adjust the levelness of the bed.

It's best to get your bed at exactly 90 degrees to your towers before adjusting endstops.


I found that a dab of loctite on the screw before it goes into the T nut means that I can take the bed off completely, then replace it without having to recalibrate.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2015 06:27PM by nebbian.

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01
So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer
so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is
higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bed it is only off a pinch. Do I try to level the print bed
or do I continue adjusting the endstops?

Your bed is not mechanically flat, you need to try and get it as flat to the printer as possible, looks like one side is at a slope.

Thanks for the help. Is there something I can buy that mounts the bed to the printer and has an adjustment on it that helps you level the bed? Something like
the adjustment screw for the end stops?

Anything printed or plastic will warp and bend over time, I made my bed surface out of 1/4 inch aluminum plate and mounted everything to that.

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01
So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer
so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is
higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bed it is only off a pinch. Do I try to level the print bed
or do I continue adjusting the endstops?

Your bed is not mechanically flat, you need to try and get it as flat to the printer as possible, looks like one side is at a slope.

Thanks for the help. Is there something I can buy that mounts the bed to the printer and has an adjustment on it that helps you level the bed? Something like
the adjustment screw for the end stops?

Anything printed or plastic will warp and bend over time, I made my bed surface out of 1/4 inch aluminum plate and mounted everything to that.

Thank you again. My bed surface that came with this kit is aluminum but it is only 1/8". I have also figured out that it is convex. I have a slight peak in the center
running across the X Y axis. This is why my printer nozzle gets to close to the bed when it goes from the Z tower forward to the X tower. Is there something I can do to adjust that
or do I need to buy a better printing bed?

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01
So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer
so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is
higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bed it is only off a pinch. Do I try to level the print bed
or do I continue adjusting the endstops?

Your bed is not mechanically flat, you need to try and get it as flat to the printer as possible, looks like one side is at a slope.

Thanks for the help. Is there something I can buy that mounts the bed to the printer and has an adjustment on it that helps you level the bed? Something like
the adjustment screw for the end stops?

Anything printed or plastic will warp and bend over time, I made my bed surface out of 1/4 inch aluminum plate and mounted everything to that.

Thank you again. My bed surface that came with this kit is aluminum but it is only 1/8". I have also figured out that it is convex. I have a slight peak in the center
running across the X Y axis. This is why my printer nozzle gets to close to the bed when it goes from the Z tower forward to the X tower. Is there something I can do to adjust that
or do I need to buy a better printing bed?

I am not talking about the bed surface, but the only way to straighten that would be to bolt it down and smack it in the middle with a rubber mallet until flat. I was refering to the mounting surface that the bed attaches to. I changed out mine for a 1/4 inch thick sheet of aluminum.

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01

Quote
thevisad

Quote
davidf01
So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer
so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is
higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bed it is only off a pinch. Do I try to level the print bed
or do I continue adjusting the endstops?

Your bed is not mechanically flat, you need to try and get it as flat to the printer as possible, looks like one side is at a slope.

Thanks for the help. Is there something I can buy that mounts the bed to the printer and has an adjustment on it that helps you level the bed? Something like
the adjustment screw for the end stops?

Anything printed or plastic will warp and bend over time, I made my bed surface out of 1/4 inch aluminum plate and mounted everything to that.

Thank you again. My bed surface that came with this kit is aluminum but it is only 1/8". I have also figured out that it is convex. I have a slight peak in the center
running across the X Y axis. This is why my printer nozzle gets to close to the bed when it goes from the Z tower forward to the X tower. Is there something I can do to adjust that
or do I need to buy a better printing bed?

I am not talking about the bed surface, but the only way to straighten that would be to bolt it down and smack it in the middle with a rubber mallet until flat. I was refering to the mounting surface that the bed attaches to. I changed out mine for a 1/4 inch thick sheet of aluminum.

8fbe29447f.jpg

Ah I see what you are saying now. So the acrylic that I have my print bed attached to in this picture I should change to something different and more solid?

Quote
davidf01


Ah I see what you are saying now. So the acrylic that I have my print bed attached to in this picture I should change to something different and more solid?

I would I started having issues when the bed started heating and warped the acrylic that was under it.

ok, i so got this printer from folgertech... looks like a great setup...so after looking at all the earlier complaints about delays in shipping and all, and hearing that the customer relations dept sucks, i went ahead and took a risk in buying it anyway as it is priced right for me... well, good news is it only took about 2 weeks to get my printer... perfect... as i inventoried everything i noticed it was missing alot of screws and tnuts.. then i happen to notice that the box it came in said Revision "B"... yet most of the parts i got were for the previous version, but thanks to adafruit.com i ordered what i needed and 3 days later had every screw needed...ok moving on... so im starting to build this thing and right off the bat the manual that i got from there google drive link they gave me isnt correct for this revision...in fact 1/4 of the build was a guessing game as bolts and parts either didnt fit or didnt go in the location specified...after some digging around i found the newly posted "DRAFT...Revision B build manual" on the google drive they said to get it from..they being ariana @ the online chat in the site... well after goin thru it, they werent kidding, its a DRAFT at best...BUT it was much more info than i had before...ok great moving on.... so i get the printer built and the electronics assembled.. it all looks great and looks like a well designed machine...i was happier than a pig in shit...but it was short lived... upon trying to locate the correct firmware, again being directed to the google drive link they gave me, they again being online chat people, i find the FW zip file, perfect...or NOT... inside the zip file was 2 more FW files... both labled "revision B & revision BPE" which to this day neither of them work! so the first thing i checked was, hardware...everything is connected and from what i gather from the DRAFT manual in the right locations...i check the Arduino IDE software and it uploads blink sketch just fine and it shows on COM3...so its not a HW issue...i also verified this by uploading my MENDEL 90 marlin FW to it and BAM the printer came alive, but i had no control of it...the nozzle came strait down and plowed the bed...BUT it did work none the less...so i re-uploaded the revision B FW, and nothing...i tried the revisionBPE, again, nothing... The LCD i use comes on and i can see the graphic but thats it...So i emailed tech support at folgertech about the issue, in fact almost word for word of what i just typed.. i get a response of, "sounds like your Z height is off" did you follow the calibration guide?" well, no, i cant, i cant even communicate with the printer to do anything...So as you can imaging my frustration when i spend money that isnt easily available, have missing parts that i have to spend more money to replace, have parts that i dont need and arent in the manual, and now have no way of talking to the printer...well i expressed my feelings with the tech support via email again...i got no response..its been 3 days...still nothing...i probably pissed em off and while thats not my intent, i have a right to be pissed...im getting no viable help from those that made it and clearly dont have all the info they need to support it, yet... now i know they read these posts, and im sure they are gonna try and blast me for posting this, or even worse not respond, which i hope they do actually but with the notion of understanding and willingness to help a frustrated customer...

so im asuming those of you posting have a working folgertech kossel 2020... and hopefully someone has a Revision B with inductive probe that WORKS and has a WORKING Firmware, if your out there, i could use a bit of help... or could you send me a working FW?

PS...to FOLGERTECH, if your reading this, i mean no harm or disrespect, and im not mad at you...just want to make it work...

---

Nophead Mendel90 Remixed in aluminum
Marlin v2.0
Matterhacker Control (latest)
Ramps 1.4
Sainsmart LCD
MK2B heatbed
E3dV6 hotend .4mm tip
1.75mm filaments
dedicated 12v33a psu
dedicated 12v5a laptop psu mod