Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

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davidf01
I have Repetier loaded on my computer. I think I should see what it takes to use that. Should I be able to just plug in the settings I use in pronterface right into Repetier and get pretty close to the same results?

You can use my config file as starting point. It's for Repetier 0.92.5. Attached.
Then, as usual, calibrate endstops, better to do it manually. Use Config->Eeprom menu to fill values to Tower fields.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 09:03PM by paul_delta.

Hi guys,

I have just finished putting together my Kossel Delta and I have tried to start the calibration.
I have tried several of the configuration.h files/ builds Marlin & Repetier in this thread, but every time i try to home (G28) only the Z will go to the stop and the other 2 axis don't move.
I have tried the other stepper motors on the Z- plug on the RAMPS and they work.
I have tried to move the steppers after the Z hits home and the X is powered, but not moving.
I have adjusted the X,Y,Z drivers for 350 mV and moved them to the Z plug and they work.
I have tried manual movement and only the Z stepper moves.

Do I need a new RAMPS board?

Thanks Jack

Load test code instead of firmware:

[reprap.org]

PS: hope you don't switch motors when everything powered on

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jbman
Hi guys,

I have just finished putting together my Kossel Delta and I have tried to start the calibration.
I have tried several of the configuration.h files/ builds Marlin & Repetier in this thread, but every time i try to home (G28) only the Z will go to the stop and the other 2 axis don't move.
I have tried the other stepper motors on the Z- plug on the RAMPS and they work.
I have tried to move the steppers after the Z hits home and the X is powered, but not moving.
I have adjusted the X,Y,Z drivers for 350 mV and moved them to the Z plug and they work.
I have tried manual movement and only the Z stepper moves.

Do I need a new RAMPS board?

Thanks Jack

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 09:54PM by paul_delta.

Quote
paul_delta
Load test code instead of firmware:

[reprap.org]

PS: hope you don't switch motors when everything powered on

Quote
jbman
Hi guys,

I have just finished putting together my Kossel Delta and I have tried to start the calibration.
I have tried several of the configuration.h files/ builds Marlin & Repetier in this thread, but every time i try to home (G28) only the Z will go to the stop and the other 2 axis don't move.
I have tried the other stepper motors on the Z- plug on the RAMPS and they work.
I have tried to move the steppers after the Z hits home and the X is powered, but not moving.
I have adjusted the X,Y,Z drivers for 350 mV and moved them to the Z plug and they work.
I have tried manual movement and only the Z stepper moves.

Do I need a new RAMPS board?

Thanks Jack

I tried the test software. X & Y are not working.
Swapped stepper motors - X & Y motors work on Z & E
Swapped drivers X & Y to Z and E, Z & E still work - drivers ok
It appears to be the X & Y channel on the RAMPS - The X powers and holds location, the Y doesn't power.
I'm thinking it's the RAMPS board, do you think I should get a Mega also?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 11:06PM by jbman.

Quote
jbman
I tried the test software. X & Y are not working.
Swapped stepper motors - X & Y work
Swapped drivers X & Y to Z and E, Z & E still work - dirvers ok
It appears to be the X & Y channel on the RAMPS - The X powers and holds location, the Y doesn't power.
I'm thinking it's the RAMPS board, do you think I should get a Mega also?

I saw some people had bad contact problem with RAPMS-Mega. Just in case - inspect connectors between boards and soldering quality. Try to connect-disconnect boards couple of times.
Is this Folgertech kit?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 11:09PM by paul_delta.

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paul_delta

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jbman
I tried the test software. X & Y are not working.
Swapped stepper motors - X & Y work
Swapped drivers X & Y to Z and E, Z & E still work - dirvers ok
It appears to be the X & Y channel on the RAMPS - The X powers and holds location, the Y doesn't power.
I'm thinking it's the RAMPS board, do you think I should get a Mega also?

I saw some people had bad contact problem with RAPMS-Mega. Just in case - inspect the connectors between boards and the soldering quality. Try to connect-disconnect boards couple of times.
Is this Folgertech kit?

I did see that some people had that issue. I have connected-disconnected the Mega and Ramps a few times. The RAMPS did have some solder quality issues near the connectors, I cleaned it up the best I could. no improvement.
It is a Folger Tech Kossel 2020 kit.

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jbman
I did see that some people had that issue. I have connected-disconnected the Mega and Ramps a few times. The RAMPS did have some solder quality issues near the connectors, I cleaned it up the best I could. no improvement.
It is a Folger Tech Kossel 2020 kit.

Looks like it's time for replacement. It's hard to say if it's RAMPS or Mega without oscilloscope. Actually, boards are cheap but FolgerTech is slow, probably it's good idea just order the new combo

PS: probably you did it already, but just in case... check 3 jumpers under driver boards.

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jbman

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paul_delta

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jbman
I tried the test software. X & Y are not working.
Swapped stepper motors - X & Y work
Swapped drivers X & Y to Z and E, Z & E still work - dirvers ok
It appears to be the X & Y channel on the RAMPS - The X powers and holds location, the Y doesn't power.
I'm thinking it's the RAMPS board, do you think I should get a Mega also?

I saw some people had bad contact problem with RAPMS-Mega. Just in case - inspect the connectors between boards and the soldering quality. Try to connect-disconnect boards couple of times.
Is this Folgertech kit?

I did see that some people had that issue. I have connected-disconnected the Mega and Ramps a few times. The RAMPS did have some solder quality issues near the connectors, I cleaned it up the best I could. no improvement.
It is a Folger Tech Kossel 2020 kit.

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paul_delta
PS: probably you did it already, but just in case... check 3 jumpers under driver boards.

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jbman

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paul_delta

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jbman
I tried the test software. X & Y are not working.
Swapped stepper motors - X & Y work
Swapped drivers X & Y to Z and E, Z & E still work - dirvers ok
It appears to be the X & Y channel on the RAMPS - The X powers and holds location, the Y doesn't power.
I'm thinking it's the RAMPS board, do you think I should get a Mega also?

I saw some people had bad contact problem with RAPMS-Mega. Just in case - inspect the connectors between boards and the soldering quality. Try to connect-disconnect boards couple of times.
Is this Folgertech kit?

I did see that some people had that issue. I have connected-disconnected the Mega and Ramps a few times. The RAMPS did have some solder quality issues near the connectors, I cleaned it up the best I could. no improvement.
It is a Folger Tech Kossel 2020 kit.

Yes, I already have the set on order, due in Monday. Thanks for your help with the test software. Using that confirmed that it wasn't a software issue. Hopefully Monday after replacing the set I can get to calibrating the printer and get at least a test cube made

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davidf01

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paul_delta

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davidf01

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paul_delta

Yes, just find in firmware configuration file something like:

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0

Well this could be a problem. I don't seem to have anything like that for each tower. I only have one setting that I assume applies to all the diagonal rod corrections.

This is one of reasons why I switched to Repetier. Everything is configurable via GUI Host like 1-2-3.

I have Repetier loaded on my computer. I think I should see what it takes to use that. Should I be able to just plug in the settings I use in pronterface right into Repetier and get pretty close to the same results?

You can edit the Marlin you have with the instructions from this page or you can switch to a newer version of Marlin where this function is already incorporated if you still wish to use Marlin.
However a switch to repetier for a delta might be a good idea as repetier seems to perform slightly better for this platform, achieving higher speeds than with Marlin or not as prone to give you trouble if you add a screen to your printer.

I'd recommend a 32bit electronics upgrade for a delta.
The due + radds seems to be a good option at the time if you want to test/run different firmwares on your printer as RRF, Marlin and Repetier seems to have ports to this platform.
I bought a duet which is nice but it is only able to run the RRF-firmware at the moment.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 07:19AM by Koenig.

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Koenig

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davidf01

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paul_delta

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davidf01

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paul_delta

Yes, just find in firmware configuration file something like:

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0

Well this could be a problem. I don't seem to have anything like that for each tower. I only have one setting that I assume applies to all the diagonal rod corrections.

This is one of reasons why I switched to Repetier. Everything is configurable via GUI Host like 1-2-3.

I have Repetier loaded on my computer. I think I should see what it takes to use that. Should I be able to just plug in the settings I use in pronterface right into Repetier and get pretty close to the same results?

You can edit the Marlin you have with the instructions from this page or you can switch to a newer version of Marlin where this function is already incorporated if you still wish to use Marlin.
However a switch to repetier for a delta might be a good idea as repetier seems to perform slightly better for this platform, achieving higher speeds than with Marlin or not as prone to give you trouble if you add a screen to your printer.

I'd recommend a 32bit electronics upgrade for a delta.
The due + radds seems to be a good option at the time if you want to test/run different firmwares on your printer as RRF, Marlin and Repetier seems to have ports to this platform.
I bought a duet which is nice but it is only able to run the RRF-firmware at the moment.

I'm going to look into upgrading to Repetier but I'm not sure what I need to do as far as firmware goes. I have repetier host installed and it connects to my printer
but I'm still use the firmware that I have been using. I would like to check and see what version of Marlin I'm using but I'm not sure where to check for the version number.
Where do I find that information?

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davidf01


I'm going to look into upgrading to Repetier but I'm not sure what I need to do as far as firmware goes. I have repetier host installed and it connects to my printer
but I'm still use the firmware that I have been using. I would like to check and see what version of Marlin I'm using but I'm not sure where to check for the version number.
Where do I find that information?

If you are using the Folgertech Marlin then it is a version of a really old 1.0. All of the items you are referencing are already inserted into the repo here, it may be a bit older at this point, but it's still a valid working install that has all of the features available.



Thevisad

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thevisad

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davidf01


I'm going to look into upgrading to Repetier but I'm not sure what I need to do as far as firmware goes. I have repetier host installed and it connects to my printer
but I'm still use the firmware that I have been using. I would like to check and see what version of Marlin I'm using but I'm not sure where to check for the version number.
Where do I find that information?

If you are using the Folgertech Marlin then it is a version of a really old 1.0. All of the items you are referencing are already inserted into the repo here, it may be a bit older at this point, but it's still a valid working install that has all of the features available.



Thevisad

Thevisad, I check it ou and it seems to have more to it then the version I'm using. So what is the best way to get my current settings into the newer version? There seems to be a lot that is different.

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davidf01


Thevisad, I check it ou and it seems to have more to it then the version I'm using. So what is the best way to get my current settings into the newer version? There seems to be a lot that is different.

Just go through it line by line, it will take you about 10-15 minutes to go through it and read what each setting is. This is modeled after the folgertech machine that I built so the settings in there should be very close to your settings and should be just tweaked a little bit.

Has anyone been able to print LCD box from Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:465962) with stock (recommended) 230mm diagonal rod? It's aroung 150mm long, but my printer always complains about wrong delta coordinates.
I had to print it vertically with a lot of support (but it still looks nice).

What is the real printing area in this case?

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2015 08:05PM by paul_delta.

Hello Everyone

I am in the process of replacing my steppers and some other stuff - when i was testing the movement of the new motors there's still a herky motion when it's moving towards the build plate. I've linked a video HERE

When i re-home the little pauses are not there.. this happened with my old motors too.. do any of you have any ideas? it would leave the drivers and the board doing bad things or just nudged out of proper tuning or something. Any help would be appreciated!

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Rattfink
Hello Everyone

I am in the process of replacing my steppers and some other stuff - when i was testing the movement of the new motors there's still a herky motion when it's moving towards the build plate. I've linked a video HERE

When i re-home the little pauses are not there.. this happened with my old motors too.. do any of you have any ideas? it would leave the drivers and the board doing bad things or just nudged out of proper tuning or something. Any help would be appreciated!

Do your carriages run smooth if you disconnect them from the rods? Do all 3 motors jerk at the same time? If it's all 3 it seems most likely to be a software issue. If it's just one you can focus in on that tower, do things run smooth, is the stepper underpowered?

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wrangellboy
Do your carriages run smooth if you disconnect them from the rods? Do all 3 motors jerk at the same time? If it's all 3 it seems most likely to be a software issue. If it's just one you can focus in on that tower, do things run smooth, is the stepper underpowered?

Good tips - When disconnecting all three belts and running i do get the slight pauses in all the steppers - I will check on the voltage to see when i am less tired - what do you recommend they be at? I know that when i originally set this up with the folgertech manual i think that i had to adjust the extruder motor to get it to stop skipping. dont think that i adjusted the voltages any higher on the tower steppers (and now they're new nema 17s from Automation Technologies)

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Rattfink

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wrangellboy
Do your carriages run smooth if you disconnect them from the rods? Do all 3 motors jerk at the same time? If it's all 3 it seems most likely to be a software issue. If it's just one you can focus in on that tower, do things run smooth, is the stepper underpowered?

Good tips - When disconnecting all three belts and running i do get the slight pauses in all the steppers - I will check on the voltage to see when i am less tired - what do you recommend they be at? I know that when i originally set this up with the folgertech manual i think that i had to adjust the extruder motor to get it to stop skipping. dont think that i adjusted the voltages any higher on the tower steppers (and now they're new nema 17s from Automation Technologies)

I'm running a duet now which uses different numbers, but if I remember right somewhere around .3v for the stock steppers. I also upgraded mine and could run the more powerful steppers up to about .5. I never tried the minimum before it skips thing, if they're missing steps, turn them up, if they're too hot (60c is my top) turn them down...

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wrangellboy
I'm running a duet now which uses different numbers, but if I remember right somewhere around .3v for the stock steppers. I also upgraded mine and could run the more powerful steppers up to about .5. I never tried the minimum before it skips thing, if they're missing steps, turn them up, if they're too hot (60c is my top) turn them down...

not sure if the voltage was the issue - tuned xyz to .5 and still they're making the same halting motions.. :/ Doesnt seem to cause issues with the printing i am seeing. *shrug* must be the board or the drivers

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2015 11:46PM by Rattfink.

hello everyone. I have been reading through the forum to help with my kossel build, and get set up, thank you all, the forum has been a great help.

I finally got my printer calibrated after fixing some wiring, and replacing a thermocouple that broke during the build. Last night I printer with ABS, and just printer a small cube I downloaded from thingaverse. I used the sample abs they gave me which was plenty of material. Today I tried to print the same cube with ABS, and multiple times during the build the printer would stop, but keep print material, and pause up to about 6 seconds, before continuing. It did this multiple times throughout.

I then tried to print a cap for a gopro, another simple piece, and I got the same thing, although it only happened once, but was for more like 30 seconds this time. the first time if happened I canceled the print. Tried to run it again, and it did it again, so I let it go. It finished the print.

Is this an issue with the file being created using Slic3r, or is could it be a settings things, or some thing with my stepper motors. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Set up a fan to blow on your polyfuses, they might be getting too hot and turning off.

Thank you. Just since I am new to all of this, the polyfuses are the wires going into the hot end? I had to put a few piece of tape on the rectangle of the hot end because the fan wasn't allowing the hot end to get hot enough to bring. I put a few layers on and it allowed it to get up to 230 to print. any other suggestions for this.

My guess is the other fellow is citing the two thin funky light brown/yellow square thingies on the Ramps board. Those look to me to be self-resettable 'fuses'. If those things are self resetting poly-fuses, and they over-heat in that application then either they are failing, or are improperly manufactured or are undersized for the intended load current. In any case there is something not correct, in my opinion. Placing them into an airstream is a kludge solution. Not trying to scare you. We get what we pay for and unfortunately everything actually manufactured in America is over-priced and everything coming from China (it seems) is poorly manufactured but cheap. Measure the 'run' current load through those fuses, then 'stall' the load in some manner and then add a little head-room over that value (add'm up, to get derive a new higher 'fuse-blow' trip value) and then track-down a replacement poly-fuse from Elephant14 (if overseas) or Mouser (better priced than DigiKey IMO) and replace them. On the other hand if the poly-fuse is rated (just guessing) at say 1.5A and you measure 0.85A, then its likely that the fuse is just plain bad. It might be a different snake, maybe the power-supply is shutting down? Not likely but possible. The next time it stops, measure the current, see what is electrically not being juiced or look at the currents. (remember...try not to blow up anything while probing around with power-on.) I always get a few replacement parts for those little unfortunate smokers.

When I receive my Ramps with the fuses I fully intend to check everything. Better to do so before the smoke comes out.

I am TRYING to get Folger-Tech to reply to me so I can buy a Kossel from them, but I have not been able elicit an intelligible response either from their factory or from their eBay presence.

best regards

phkn-nutz
edt: fix a phkup

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 01:43AM by nutz.

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freeflykid

I then tried to print a cap for a gopro, another simple piece, and I got the same thing, although it only happened once, but was for more like 30 seconds this time. the first time if happened I canceled the print. Tried to run it again, and it did it again, so I let it go. It finished the print.

Is this an issue with the file being created using Slic3r, or is could it be a settings things, or some thing with my stepper motors. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Probably it's the power source. It looks like Arduino board resets because of bad +5v. Then software tries to reconnect and continue from the last received "OK". Is it original power supply from Folgertech?
Another guess - check your USB/COM port settings. Try to lower the speed, from 250000 to 115200 for example.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 09:16AM by paul_delta.

thanks Nutz & Paul_delta.I am using the original power supply from Folgertech.

I did try another print using an SD card, and that print ran fine. It was a different file, but similar. I am going to do a few more test runs tomorrow just using the SD card to see if it continues to run smooth. I will also try to lower the speed for the port settings, and see if It will run from my computer. If I run into issues again I will look into the fuses.

Thanks all for the help

Dan

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freeflykid

I did try another print using an SD card, and that print ran fine. It was a different file, but similar. I am going to do a few more test runs tomorrow just using the SD card to see if it continues to run smooth. I will also try to lower the speed for the port settings, and see if It will run from my computer. If I run into issues again I will look into the fuses.
Dan

Are you using Pronterface and Marlin? If so, check "monitor printer" checkbox in Options and disable it.

Try to switch to Repetier - Marlin has issues with speed on deltas, especially with LCD/SD connected. Before I switched to Repetier I had strange (but shorter than yours) pauses too.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 10:11AM by paul_delta.

Yea I am currently using Pronterface & Marlin. I will try that. Where can I get the Repetier Firmware. Is it much different than using Marlin?

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freeflykid
Yea I am currently using Pronterface & Marlin. I will try that. Where can I get the Repetier Firmware. Is it much different than using Marlin?

Not much diferent, but configuration file variables sometimes have different names. Check my post [forums.reprap.org] with my configuration file attached.
[www.repetier.com]

PS: heck, I've just realised that I attached Communication.h file, not Configuration.h. Here is my Configuration.h for Repetier 0.92.5.