Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

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cman8
i think we just need to relax. Its not like we didnt know that shipping was going to be delayed. from all ive seen is their slammed and a little slow to respond (they were slow with me) but never have I felt like Ive been blown off. I always have gotten an answer to a question. Im still patiently waiting for mine to get here and for the price I dont mind.

I would agree. It took 25 days for me to get my kit when I ordered near the first of January. Anyone who has delt with China knows the frustrations that occur in the logistics area. Folger Tech has taken it upon themselves to deal with China for many of theit parts in an effort to bring us a low cost kit. I applaud them for that. As well, I have always gotten a response via email, even though dalayed. Phone calls were always answered immediatly. In questions dealing with logistics, and orders... always satisfactory. In dealing with technical issues, I always got a response, but Nate is not very thorough. He gives quick, short answers that often require follow up questions to understand him. But, that is what this forum is for. Now that the instructions are satisfactory, this is the only short coming of this company IMO, and if we accept that Folger is here to provide the stuff from China so we don't have to hassel with that, and that this forum is for providing the know-how.... we can all get along just fine.

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mmcginnis9272

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cman8
i think we just need to relax. Its not like we didnt know that shipping was going to be delayed. from all ive seen is their slammed and a little slow to respond (they were slow with me) but never have I felt like Ive been blown off. I always have gotten an answer to a question. Im still patiently waiting for mine to get here and for the price I dont mind.

I would agree. It took 25 days for me to get my kit when I ordered near the first of January. Anyone who has delt with China knows the frustrations that occur in the logistics area. Folger Tech has taken it upon themselves to deal with China for many of theit parts in an effort to bring us a low cost kit. I applaud them for that. As well, I have always gotten a response via email, even though dalayed. Phone calls were always answered immediatly. In questions dealing with logistics, and orders... always satisfactory. In dealing with technical issues, I always got a response, but Nate is not very thorough. He gives quick, short answers that often require follow up questions to understand him. But, that is what this forum is for. Now that the instructions are satisfactory, this is the only short coming of this company IMO, and if we accept that Folger is here to provide the stuff from China so we don't have to hassel with that, and that this forum is for providing the know-how.... we can all get along just fine.

+1. Its great to have this community where there is help. Even things like these videos help immensely in understanding even for a total newbie like me. Excited to get this project going, not looking forward to the hair pulling nights but also know when its all said in done, I will be happy

I also received a shipping label last week with no further movment. I emailed them and was quickly advised this was a due to some issues with the inventory on parts and the kit is experiencing a delay of an additional 4-5 days.

The line of communication is open and prompt. Hopefully we will see our kits being shipped this week.

In the meantime I have found a site I use for my rc parts is stocking filament now at a good price.

[www.hobbyking.com]
[www.hobbyking.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2015 03:58AM by vorpal.

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vorpal
I also received a shipping label last week with no further movment. I emailed them and was quickly advised this was a due to some issues with the inventory on parts and the kit is experiencing a delay of an additional 4-5 days.

The line of communication is open and prompt. Hopefully we will see our kits being shipped this week.

In the meantime I have found a site I use for my rc parts is stocking filament now at a good price.

[www.hobbyking.com]
[www.hobbyking.com]

Would be nice if they had an automated system to let you know of shipping delays. I was a bit put off by the additional delay, but they eventually came through. And the kit builds a nice printer for a great price.

Careful. Those are only half kilo rolls.

Microcenter filament is $14.99 for each full PLA or ABS kilo roll of their Inland brand plus tax and shipping in the States. Shipping is $5 for first roll and only $1 shipping for each additional. PETG is $18.99.

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rtideas

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vorpal
I also received a shipping label last week with no further movment. I emailed them and was quickly advised this was a due to some issues with the inventory on parts and the kit is experiencing a delay of an additional 4-5 days.

The line of communication is open and prompt. Hopefully we will see our kits being shipped this week.

In the meantime I have found a site I use for my rc parts is stocking filament now at a good price.

[www.hobbyking.com]
[www.hobbyking.com]

Would be nice if they had an automated system to let you know of shipping delays. I was a bit put off by the additional delay, but they eventually came through. And the kit builds a nice printer for a great price.

Careful. Those are only half kilo rolls.

Microcenter filament is $14.99 for each full PLA or ABS kilo roll of their Inland brand plus tax and shipping in the States. Shipping is $5 for first roll and only $1 shipping for each additional. PETG is $18.99.

I agree about the automated shipping delay notification. A feature on folgers store or ebay where any outstanding orders are notifed surley wouldnt be hard to implement.

With the australian exchange rate the way it is at the moment once I add international shipping the cost goes up from Microcenter. I have asked hobbyking about PETG(which sounds good) and they say they will be getting it in. I think they intend to launch their own printer soon.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2015 08:50AM by vorpal.

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vorpal
With the australian exchange rate the way it is at the moment once I add international shipping the cost goes up from Microcenter. I have asked hobbyking about PETG(which sounds good) and they say they will be getting it in. I think they intend to launch their own printer soon.

Didn't mean to assume you were in the States, and I've waited my fair share for HobbyKing shipments to here. Interesting to watch the falling prices of filament. Pellet plastic is still a fraction of filament cost.

The aussie warehouse is pretty quick I generally receive goods within 2-3 days.

I saw a filament machine on alibaba I think for 30k. Say after 1000 rolls @ $30 your making profit and can lower prices and increase sales.

Windows 10 has introduced 3d in a variety of ways including an emphasis on 3d printing. Im expecting to see alot more interest following its release later this year.

@Makerfront
On page 4 of the assembly manual you show mounting the pulleys and say "We'll adjust the depth later", and that's the last we ever hear of it. Could you add the depth adjustment and the tightening of the grub screws? How tight do they need to be?

This video does things a little differently than the manual, but check out the instructions here: [youtu.be]


Following the manual, the instructions in the video would be followed after step 23.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2015 12:35PM by jculver09.

Well, after a few months of sitting on the fence about it, i went and ordered last night. Grabbed the 20t gears, some cork gaskets, heat sinks for the stepper drivers, and some fans to assist in cooling. First time builder so this should be interesting. Wonder how backed up shipping is right now.

I am trying to get this delta calibrated, I noticed that the version of Marlin on the google drive does not include the M666 command for endstop offsets. Is there an alternative place where I can enter offsets for the endstops. I prefer to use software offsets to adjust the endstops, because adjusting them physically is not very precise. Right now if I have the nozzle height 100um off the bed in the center position, it is about 1.2mm higher in front of the Z tower, 2mm higher in front of the X tower and touching the bed in front of the Y tower. Any tips?

Hi Juice. I think the procedure is to physically adjust the end stops up or down until the distances to the bed are equal in front of (and as close to) each tower as possible. This worked for me and I've had level prints without using auto level and even after moving the printer a few times...

I used the paper test to get the distance to the bed the same at each point.

Sorry I missed what you said about preferring to do it in the software, but moving them physically worked for me. I could see the value in tweaking it in the software, though...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2015 01:58PM by ohecht.

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juicev85
I am trying to get this delta calibrated, I noticed that the version of Marlin on the google drive does not include the M666 command for endstop offsets. Is there an alternative place where I can enter offsets for the endstops. I prefer to use software offsets to adjust the endstops, because adjusting them physically is not very precise. Right now if I have the nozzle height 100um off the bed in the center position, it is about 1.2mm higher in front of the Z tower, 2mm higher in front of the X tower and touching the bed in front of the Y tower. Any tips?

Once I get the switch close manually, I see how far off the nozzel is for a given switch, then using feeler guages, I measure between the top of the rail and switch block, then add or remove the needed feeler guages to bring the nozzel where it needs to be and press the switch block against the feeler guages and tighten the switch block down. Not as precise as digital enstops, but darn close.

Thanks guys, these are good tips. I really wish the M666 command was available in this version of Marlin, it allows you to adjust an endstop offset without touching them physically...but I guess I will have to adjust them by hand.

I have been wanting to buy one of these 2020's for some time now. i'm trying to read everything I can about them, also I think there are 2 great videos on youtube about the assembly all 26 steps I've watched it several time, and it looks like a very well engineered machine. I noticed in this forum that someone else had recieved their kit without a manual, those two videos explain very clearly where everything goes. Just search youtube for theKossel 2020 and you should find them.

Got mine today! Between this and the RC stuff, im never going to fall asleep. Did most of you build with straight manual instructions? what tips do you advise for those that have built it?

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cman8
Got mine today! Between this and the RC stuff, im never going to fall asleep. Did most of you build with straight manual instructions? what tips do you advise for those that have built it?

When did you order yours? I didn't order mine until March 18th, I've already built it two or three times in my mind. I have scratch built two cnc routers so I hope what I've learned from those will help me with this. I can't wait to be able to contribute to this thread.
Steve

Ordered mine on March 2nd, "shipped" last week but tacking number shows it has not been picked up by UPS sooo still a waiting game! Super excited to get my hands on this!

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3D52

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cman8
Got mine today! Between this and the RC stuff, im never going to fall asleep. Did most of you build with straight manual instructions? what tips do you advise for those that have built it?

When did you order yours? I didn't order mine until March 18th, I've already built it two or three times in my mind. I have scratch built two cnc routers so I hope what I've learned from those will help me with this. I can't wait to be able to contribute to this thread.
Steve

Yeah, I have been reading and reading the manual and loking at vids too. I have a friend that built a CNC router also and he says the parts for this and his router are similar. hes going to help me out also but most of it I know I can get. its the little technicalities that I know im gonna have to learn and learn.

Sorry to hear that people are currently experiencing shipping delays (particularly as I have just ordered myself! ) but recent history would suggest that Folger Tech will catch up in the end so I don't mind waiting - gives me more time to go over the build manual a few more times and rewatch those tantalising videos!

Before it does arrive (and UK customs finally let it through!) I'm trying to decide on two parts of the initial build and wondered what the general consensus of opinion was on both: -

1. 20 tooth or the included 36 tooth pulleys? In my mind more teeth would seem to be better mechanically but from what I've read the overall resolution may be effected due to the limitations of the RAMPS board (please feel free to correct me if I have misunderstood this part.......).

2. I realise that the build manual has the RAMPS and Arduino boards installed underneath the heated bed but, as has already been tried on this forum, would it be better to position these on top of the frame and away from the heat? Is the heat from the bed problematic enough to extend all of those wires and reposition?

I realise that such is the nature of buying a kit (and perhaps this kit in particular) you aren't going to build the perfect printer on your first go (and arguably that is half of the fun) but since I have thinking time to kill before it arrives I have to contend myself with asking these questions. I appologise if they have already been asked and discussed but it seems to me that success has been achieved with all possible combinations which is great, but in some ways doesn't help

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rotten_carrot
Sorry to hear that people are currently experiencing shipping delays (particularly as I have just ordered myself! ) but recent history would suggest that Folger Tech will catch up in the end so I don't mind waiting - gives me more time to go over the build manual a few more times and rewatch those tantalising videos!

Before it does arrive (and UK customs finally let it through!) I'm trying to decide on two parts of the initial build and wondered what the general consensus of opinion was on both: -

1. 20 tooth or the included 36 tooth pulleys? In my mind more teeth would seem to be better mechanically but from what I've read the overall resolution may be effected due to the limitations of the RAMPS board (please feel free to correct me if I have misunderstood this part.......).

2. I realise that the build manual has the RAMPS and Arduino boards installed underneath the heated bed but, as has already been tried on this forum, would it be better to position these on top of the frame and away from the heat? Is the heat from the bed problematic enough to extend all of those wires and reposition?

I realise that such is the nature of buying a kit (and perhaps this kit in particular) you aren't going to build the perfect printer on your first go (and arguably that is half of the fun) but since I have thinking time to kill before it arrives I have to contend myself with asking these questions. I appologise if they have already been asked and discussed but it seems to me that success has been achieved with all possible combinations which is great, but in some ways doesn't help

Just my opinions:

1. I tried using the 36 tooth initially and just found the movement accuracy completely unacceptable, I would go 20 tooth for sure!

2. I have my arduino and ramps under the heated bed and haven't had any issues, but: I added a cork insulating backing to the heatbed, a 40mm fan blowing accross the electronics, and feet to lift the tool off the table about 3/4" for more air flow.

I thought I read on here somewhere that the new ones would be shipped with 20 tooth pulleys, is this not the case?

mine didnt

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3D52
I thought I read on here somewhere that the new ones would be shipped with 20 tooth pulleys, is this not the case?

Mine didn't either and I received it about 2 weeks ago.

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rotten_carrot

1. 20 tooth or the included 36 tooth pulleys?

2. I realise that the build manual has the RAMPS and Arduino boards installed underneath the heated bed but, as has already been tried on this forum, would it be better to position these on top of the frame and away from the heat? Is the heat from the bed problematic enough to extend all of those wires and reposition?

1. I agree, 20T is the only way to go. You don't need to have your stepper reference voltage set as high with 20T as you have more torque and the resolution is better. The only trade off is slower printing.
2. I have my RAMPS under the heated bed and I have NO insultation. I probably should, but I mounted a 40 MM fan to the RAMPS to blow air accross the Polulo heat sinks. I also installed feet to raise my printer up off the table and mounted heat sinks with fans on each stepper. Probably overkill, but the fans do nice job of moving the air around and keeping heat from pooling under the build plate.

One of my recent concerns is where the power supply is mounted. My effector interfers with the power supply when printing to the edge of the build plate in that area. I am planning to add about an inch spacers to offset the power supply from the side rail. Easy to solve, just a bad design.

What width 20T pulleys are you guys getting?

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3D52
What width 20T pulleys are you guys getting?

I got my 20-tooth pulleys from TriDPrinting for $10.90 for three shipped in the States.
I think they are about 7 or 8 mm wide. Fine for the 6mm GT2 belts.

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mmcginnis9272

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rotten_carrot

1. 20 tooth or the included 36 tooth pulleys?

2. I realise that the build manual has the RAMPS and Arduino boards installed underneath the heated bed but, as has already been tried on this forum, would it be better to position these on top of the frame and away from the heat? Is the heat from the bed problematic enough to extend all of those wires and reposition?

1. I agree, 20T is the only way to go. You don't need to have your stepper reference voltage set as high with 20T as you have more torque and the resolution is better. The only trade off is slower printing.
2. I have my RAMPS under the heated bed and I have NO insultation. I probably should, but I mounted a 40 MM fan to the RAMPS to blow air accross the Polulo heat sinks. I also installed feet to raise my printer up off the table and mounted heat sinks with fans on each stepper. Probably overkill, but the fans do nice job of moving the air around and keeping heat from pooling under the build plate.

One of my recent concerns is where the power supply is mounted. My effector interfers with the power supply when printing to the edge of the build plate in that area. I am planning to add about an inch spacers to offset the power supply from the side rail. Easy to solve, just a bad design.

I printed another set of the bottom three corner pieces but extruded the little bullet shaped hole into a peg, then i attached it to the bottom of the existing corner piece so now it "locks" in and gives me a good bit of extra space, now the power supply is almost level with the bed!

This sounds very interesting greggo, any chance you could post up a couple pictures.

@3D52
I ordered my kit the first week in March. Before I did I asked about pulleys and they said it would come with 36 tooth, and that the change to 20 tooth had not happened yet (I think they are going to deplete their inventory before they change).

The correct width is 7mm for these pulleys.

EDIT: For those of you looking at ordering, seriously consider the expedited shipping. In hindsight I wish I would have picked a faster shipping.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2015 12:12PM by jculver09.

In the for what it is worth department - I ordered three each of the 20 tooth and 16 tooth (for high precision prints) pulleys from Folger Tech on the same day as my Kossel Delta 2020 kit (same day but separate order) and the pulleys showed up in about two days. Alas the printer order itself still shows as unfulfilled. I do not think it is shipping, but rather picking and packing (internal handling) that is the bottleneck - and to thier credit, Folger does have that warning on their website. Someday the 3D printer market will become stable enough to support a higher level of logistical automation (hmmm - robots packing and shipping robots), but that will probably come at along with the demise of the $400 printer price point.