Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

If you want to test your printer, this is a perfect thing to do so. I plan on printing this tonight once I tighten my belts and do a little more maintenance on the printer. If you look over the PDF you will see it has a pretty detailed document for testing and measuring.

3d Benchy

Looks like the Marlin firmware that is being used on this is old, it's based on version 1.0.0 and the current dev version is 1.0.3, with release at 1.0.2. .2 doesn't appear to support Delta auto leveling, but .3 does. Here is the config for .3 (use at your own risk!!!), the development firmware can be downloaded from below as well. This is configured for my machine, so make sure your go through the configuration prior to using this. I did this at work ( no access to my printer ), so I will update this when I go home and tweak it.

1.0.3 Development Folgertech Kossel Marlin Configuration
Marlin Github

FYI: Firmware provided
Sketch uses 102,530 bytes (40%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253,952 bytes.
Global variables use 4,639 bytes (56%) of dynamic memory, leaving 3,553 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8,192 bytes.

1.03:
Sketch uses 51,912 bytes (20%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253,952 bytes.
Global variables use 3,066 bytes (37%) of dynamic memory, leaving 5,126 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8,192 bytes.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2015 12:24PM by thevisad.

I downloaded and printed the 3D Benchy - Now to begin troubleshooting my print. Here's the pic of both sides. When you print if you don't change the layout it faces with the bow pointing towards the right center. As you can see everything printed on my XY front quadrant printed very rough. Any thoughts on what would cause this:

when I go to print it wants to print off the bed. how do i change this? gcode maybe? offsets in pronterface are 0

Your offsets shouldn't be 0. In Pronterface under options the width and depth should be set. Since we're using deltas they should be the same. Mine are set at 152. The X Offset and the Y offset should be half the width or in my case -76. X Home Offset and Y Home offset are set to 76.

Well I messed up my firmware so I ended up starting over and my Y axis isn't acting up anymore...I'll see if it happens again after I set the build area up. I also think I borked my hotend during the build. I tried feeding some plastic last night and found that i need to increase the voltage of my extruder motor AND I think that when I dropped my nozzle, it might have landed on the tip closing the hole. I looked at it and it's TINY! Maybe that's correct but I figure I can spend a couple bucks and buy a new one. Does anyone have suggestions for a replacement? I see there's like 3 different ones on folgertech's website.


...and I also may have gummed up my hotend trying to extrude to it. I still need to take it apart.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2015 10:54PM by Mylation.

Spent some time tweaking the config files for Marlin 1.0.3 dev for the Folgertech. Ended up going back to the 4988 drivers, the 8825 seem way too twitchy in the printer right now and I need more information on the motors. Spent all evening getting this tweaked and the bugs worked out. Have not attempted to print anything on it yet, still not for the faint of heart.

Not Official - Folgertech-Kossel-Marlin-1.0.3dev-v2

Configuration sections

Your machine name
#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "HNGHackossel"
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 230 // mm (215)
#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 178 // mm (175.0)
#define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 25 // mm (33)
#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 12.0 // mm (18)
#define DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS 152
#define X_MIN_POS -76
#define Y_MIN_POS -76
#define X_MAX_POS 76
#define Y_MAX_POS 76
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -10 // Probe on: -left +right
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // Probe on: -front +behind
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -2.7 // -below (always!)
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 254.5 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 100}
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 230
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255



9 seems a bit much, but it detects 9 x 9 spot I believe for 81 spots over the area.

#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 9


Works on my printer but needs some additional tweaking
#define DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS (DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS - 10)

#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -45 (supposed to be -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS )
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 45 (supposed to be DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS )
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -45 (supposed to be -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS )
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 45 (supposed to be DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS )

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/08/2015 02:26AM by thevisad.

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bluesmike
I downloaded and printed the 3D Benchy - Now to begin troubleshooting my print. Here's the pic of both sides. When you print if you don't change the layout it faces with the bow pointing towards the right center. As you can see everything printed on my XY front quadrant printed very rough. Any thoughts on what would cause this:

My attempt with Benchy using ABS for the first time, the print is dimensionally accurate but details were lost/and or messed up. I was out of the room when the glitch in the deck house was printed so I have no idea what went wrong there.

Quote
thevisad
Spent some time tweaking the config files for Marlin 1.0.3 dev for the Folgertech. Ended up going back to the 4988 drivers, the 8825 seem way too twitchy in the printer right now and I need more information on the motors. Spent all evening getting this tweaked and the bugs worked out. Have not attempted to print anything on it yet, still not for the faint of heart.

...

thevisad

I also went and upgraded the marlin firmware, below are the configure.h setting that I have for the marlin 1.0.3 dev (04/24/2015) I am happy with the reduced memory foot print for this version of the firmware, but I still have some questions related to my configuration that I have highlighted in the comments below, some are simply re-measurements of my printer, but the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT setting I need to understand where the data comes from better. I do have the 20 tooth gears and the original driver boards set to 1/16 steps with the vref's set correctly.

// fluff
#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "Deltabot"

// delta kinematics input
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 232.0 // mm, yes I screwed up cutting the rods
#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 178.0 // mm, I suspect this needs to be remeasured
#define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 25.0 // mm
#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 12.0 // mm
#define DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS 76.0 // mm, 152/2

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

#define X_MIN_POS -DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Y_MIN_POS -DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Y_MAX_POS DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS


// define grid area for bed levelling
#define DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS (DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS - 10)
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS

// offset from the nozzle to the contact point of the z-probe switch just before switch closes
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 22     // Probe on: -left  +right
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10   // Probe on: -front +behind
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -6.2  // -below (always!)

// more kinematics settings
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 253.9 // mm, I suspect this needs to be remeasured
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {189/2.25, 189/2.25, 189/2.25, 100}  // I suspect this data, but have not done enough research yet

// Define some material extruder and bed temperatures
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 210
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 65
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100

// lcd controller support.
#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER // enable my 2004 RepRap Smart Controller LCD

// settings for the z-probe servo
#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0,0,0,5,120} // Axis Extend and Retract angles are the last two entries

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Djkingsley

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thevisad
Spent some time tweaking the config files for Marlin 1.0.3 dev for the Folgertech. Ended up going back to the 4988 drivers, the 8825 seem way too twitchy in the printer right now and I need more information on the motors. Spent all evening getting this tweaked and the bugs worked out. Have not attempted to print anything on it yet, still not for the faint of heart.

...

thevisad

I also went and upgraded the marlin firmware, below are the configure.h setting that I have for the marlin 1.0.3 dev (04/24/2015) I am happy with the reduced memory foot print for this version of the firmware, but I still have some questions related to my configuration that I have highlighted in the comments below, some are simply re-measurements of my printer, but the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT setting I need to understand where the data comes from better. I do have the 20 tooth gears and the original driver boards set to 1/16 steps with the vref's set correctly.

// fluff
#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "Deltabot"

// delta kinematics input
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 232.0 // mm, yes I screwed up cutting the rods
#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 178.0 // mm, I suspect this needs to be remeasured
#define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 25.0 // mm
#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 12.0 // mm
#define DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS 76.0 // mm, 152/2

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

#define X_MIN_POS -DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Y_MIN_POS -DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Y_MAX_POS DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS


// define grid area for bed levelling
#define DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS (DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS - 10)
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS

// offset from the nozzle to the contact point of the z-probe switch just before switch closes
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 22     // Probe on: -left  +right
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10   // Probe on: -front +behind
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -6.2  // -below (always!)

// more kinematics settings
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 253.9 // mm, I suspect this needs to be remeasured
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {189/2.25, 189/2.25, 189/2.25, 100}  // I suspect this data, but have not done enough research yet

// Define some material extruder and bed temperatures
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 210
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 65
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100

// lcd controller support.
#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER // enable my 2004 RepRap Smart Controller LCD

// settings for the z-probe servo
#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0,0,0,5,120} // Axis Extend and Retract angles are the last two entries

Thanks for that! You answered one of the problems I had, I was putting the full bed size (152) instead of the actual radius of 76. Other then the stuff below, all of your settings look close to or similar to mine.

According to this site it uses this formula for steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / (belt_pitch * pulley_number_of_teeth)

motor_steps_per_rev = 360 / 1.8 = 200

GT2 belt is 2mm pitch not sure where they got 2.25 which is the belt pitch in that equation I assume (http://reprap.org/wiki/Belt)

In our case it should be steps are equal to 80 = (200 * 18) / ( 2 * 20) which should make this {80, 80, 80, 100} I am not sure why they have been utilizing 84 (189/2.25 )

I am considering getting some .9 motors, which would increase the resolution to double {160, 160, 160, 100} and if I can get the 8825 working that would double again to {320, 320, 320, 100} or 6.25 micron size.

For this one #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 253.9 <- this will change when you change the the above. I bought the 40 inch ruler at Harbor Freight and measured it at 256 and set that as my default instead of 253.9 and then leveled from that.

Quote
thevisad


Thanks for that! You answered one of the problems I had, I was putting the full bed size (152) instead of the actual radius of 76. Other then the stuff below, all of your settings look close to or similar to mine.

According to this site it uses this formula for steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / (belt_pitch * pulley_number_of_teeth)

motor_steps_per_rev = 360 / 1.8 = 200

GT2 belt is 2mm pitch not sure where they got 2.25 which is the belt pitch in that equation I assume (http://reprap.org/wiki/Belt)

In our case it should be steps are equal to 80 = (200 * 18) / ( 2 * 20) which should make this {80, 80, 80, 100} I am not sure why they have been utilizing 84 (189/2.25 )

I am considering getting some .9 motors, which would increase the resolution to double {160, 160, 160, 100} and if I can get the 8825 working that would double again to {320, 320, 320, 100} or 6.25 micron size.

For this one #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 253.9 <- this will change when you change the the above. I bought the 40 inch ruler at Harbor Freight and measured it at 256 and set that as my default instead of 253.9 and then leveled from that.

Your welcome, and thanks for the information on the GT2 belt.

Created a github repository which will contain all of the changes we come across here and I will try to keep it in sync with the official repo. Those who wish to use it or update it with me, feel free to contribute.



TheVisad

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/08/2015 12:39PM by thevisad.

Quote
thevisad
Created a github repository which will contain all of the changes we come across here and I will try to keep it in sync with the official repo. Those who wish to use it or update it with me, feel free to contribute.
TheVisad

Beat me to it, thanks, one less thing for me to do.

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Djkingsley

Quote
thevisad
Created a github repository which will contain all of the changes we come across here and I will try to keep it in sync with the official repo. Those who wish to use it or update it with me, feel free to contribute.
TheVisad

Beat me to it, thanks, one less thing for me to do.

There is an issue with the ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING, in SanityCheck.h near line 157 the conditionals need to be adjusted for a delta printer with xy=0 at the center. I don't have time to look at it right now so I turned off the auto level flag in my clone repository.

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Djkingsley

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Djkingsley

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thevisad
Created a github repository which will contain all of the changes we come across here and I will try to keep it in sync with the official repo. Those who wish to use it or update it with me, feel free to contribute.
TheVisad

Beat me to it, thanks, one less thing for me to do.

There is an issue with the ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING, in SanityCheck.h near line 157 the conditionals need to be adjusted for a delta printer with xy=0 at the center. I don't have time to look at it right now so I turned off the auto level flag in my clone repository.

Hmm, look to verify you have the z sensor probe enabled, I uploaded the version I put in the repo and it loaded fine. Just finished a 3 hour print on 1.0.3 and ... wow ...



compared to the previous part

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thevisad

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Djkingsley

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Djkingsley

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thevisad
Created a github repository which will contain all of the changes we come across here and I will try to keep it in sync with the official repo. Those who wish to use it or update it with me, feel free to contribute.
TheVisad

Beat me to it, thanks, one less thing for me to do.

There is an issue with the ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING, in SanityCheck.h near line 157 the conditionals need to be adjusted for a delta printer with xy=0 at the center. I don't have time to look at it right now so I turned off the auto level flag in my clone repository.

Hmm, look to verify you have the z sensor probe enabled, I uploaded the version I put in the repo and it loaded fine. Just finished a 3 hour print on 1.0.3 and ... wow ...

19fe2c1b2d.jpg

compared to the previous part

d9ca2f339f.jpg

That's a huge improvement, similar to what I saw between the version supplied by Folger and the 1.0.3 from 4/24/15. I tried version from your repro last night, the steps per mm fix makes another improvement in the right direction for me. My problem was that I don't have enough practice with ABS yet and I am printing benchy in ABS and it warped and pulled loose from the bed about an hour in.

I am also getting ooze that is leaving a lot more strings on my pieces than I would like, if you don't mind me asking how are you configuring your code/printer to get such clean prints.

I will check that I had the z probe enabled again, like I said I ran out of time to investigate the compile error I had.

Quote
Djkingsley

That's a huge improvement, similar to what I saw between the version supplied by Folger and the 1.0.3 from 4/24/15. I tried version from your repro last night, the steps per mm fix makes another improvement in the right direction for me. My problem was that I don't have enough practice with ABS yet and I am printing benchy in ABS and it warped and pulled loose from the bed about an hour in.

I am also getting ooze that is leaving a lot more strings on my pieces than I would like, if you don't mind me asking how are you configuring your code/printer to get such clean prints.

I will check that I had the z probe enabled again, like I said I ran out of time to investigate the compile error I had.

I dumped pronterface/slicer and went with Simplify3d, works great. That made some improvements, but I believe I have everything in it set to the defaults on normal.

Here are my benchy prints on 1.0.3, I am going to switch over to a .2 tip and see if I can get this to print in a little finer detail. The girlfriend thought it was cute and wanted to see if it would float.






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/10/2015 01:22AM by thevisad.

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thevisad

I dumped pronterface/slicer and went with Simplify3d, works great. That made some improvements, but I believe I have everything in it set to the defaults on normal.

Here are my benchy prints on 1.0.3, I am going to switch over to a .2 tip and see if I can get this to print in a little finer detail. The girlfriend thought it was cute and wanted to see if it would float.
]

0430d5ff9f.jpg

That print is nice. I will see if one of my office work mates can generate the gcode with simplify3d and try to print the file. I have been waffling one buying it, I am partial to open source code as a developer myself.

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Djkingsley

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thevisad

I dumped pronterface/slicer and went with Simplify3d, works great. That made some improvements, but I believe I have everything in it set to the defaults on normal.

Here are my benchy prints on 1.0.3, I am going to switch over to a .2 tip and see if I can get this to print in a little finer detail. The girlfriend thought it was cute and wanted to see if it would float.
]

0430d5ff9f.jpg

That print is nice. I will see if one of my office work mates can generate the gcode with simplify3d and try to print the file. I have been waffling one buying it, I am partial to open source code as a developer myself.

Here you are, this is setup per the benchy site Benchy GCode at HNGamers file repo

BIG PROPS to @Visad!!

I had tried the Folger based Marlin firmware for most of the day yesterday and it was marginal at best. My Z axis kept acting up nothing was doing what it was supposed to. So I decided to load Visad firmware with my changes and VOILA!!! I have a working well machine. The first firmware borked my heatbed fuse (I believe) so I don't have bed heating but its seeming to work so far.

My question is how have you all gotten over extruder issues. I have my voltage set to .65 mv and it is still skipping quite a bit.

Quote
Wittmason
BIG PROPS to @Visad!!

I had tried the Folger based Marlin firmware for most of the day yesterday and it was marginal at best. My Z axis kept acting up nothing was doing what it was supposed to. So I decided to load Visad firmware with my changes and VOILA!!! I have a working well machine. The first firmware borked my heatbed fuse (I believe) so I don't have bed heating but its seeming to work so far.

My question is how have you all gotten over extruder issues. I have my voltage set to .65 mv and it is still skipping quite a bit.

Glad it's working for you! A few pages back someone posted some fixes on the extruder, I guess it's designed to be on the hothead and not pushing through a tube. I replaced mine with one of the direct drive extruders on thingaverse and I have not had an issue since. You can use your existing gear; however, it's a tight fit in there and cheap filament might break if bent that much. I switched it out eventually for this

Haha yeh the mechanical fixes were from me. Funny I was referred to that. This is more or less not enough torque from the motor.
I eyed that extruder on Thingiverse for awhile. I think I'll try that.

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Wittmason
Haha yeh the mechanical fixes were from me. Funny I was referred to that. This is more or less not enough torque from the motor.
I eyed that extruder on Thingiverse for awhile. I think I'll try that.

Here is my remix of the item. I removed the mounting ear on it as it's no longer needed and get's in the way. I left the motor mounted on the frame using their mount.

I realise that it has been discussed a couple of times before but I'm still somewhat undecided in my mind as to whether to cut my rods to 250mm centre hole to centre hole or if the consensus is to cut the carbon fibre itself to 250mm? Anyone's experience/opinions on this specific detail would be gratefully received - even if it is a different length that is suggested

Also, while I'm on, I was looking to mount both a heatsink and fan on each of my three smaller stepper-motors and I wondered if anyone had gone down the route of removing a couple of the stepper-motor screws and screwing all three together with a longer M3? It means drilling atleast two holes in the heatsinks but I'm thinking of doing that anyway even if it's just to clamp the heatsink and the fan together before taping to the motor with thermal tape.

I cut my rods exactly in half and then cut them all the same length. When adding in the traxxas ends - I ended up having 288mm arms. Which leaves about 170mm build height. You could adjust the rail up and that height then can be raised about 70-100mm. As long as you make the change in the firmware the rod length doesn't seem to matter or be a hindrance. You certainly have to change the 253.6 measurement to what your new build height is.

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rotten_carrot
I realise that it has been discussed a couple of times before but I'm still somewhat undecided in my mind as to whether to cut my rods to 250mm centre hole to centre hole or if the consensus is to cut the carbon fibre itself to 250mm? Anyone's experience/opinions on this specific detail would be gratefully received - even if it is a different length that is suggested

It is all up to you, and there is no wrong length unless you go so short they dont meet in the middle at the effector, or so long they dont fit in the machine. The longer your arms the wider and shorter your build area will be (like a stack of pancakes), the shorter your arms, the narrower and taller you build area will be (like a 2L bottle of soda).

After you decide on a lenght, it is important that you very precisely match all 6 rods to the same length and that you put an accurate center to center length into your firmware once you are done building.

Personally I went with 250mm center to center on my first set of rods, and was very pleased with the width and height of the build area. IIRC I was around 180mm diameter and over 220mm tall, but my diameter was limited because I moved the linear slides up as high as I could and the carriages would hit the lower stops.
Recently I went with the magnetic rods made by Haydn Huntley and I had him make them to 288mm. I lost a lot of height with this but I love how smooth and easy they move compared to even the best traxxas type rod ends I have found. I got them longer because it allowed me to use a 250mm diamter print bed and I can now print out to about 220mm diameter, but I haven't tried anything this wide yet. The widest I have printed so far is about 195mm and I had some curling up on the edges so my standard blue tape will likely not work for me at that size. any larger than 220mm diameter and I run into issues with end effector getting too close to the towers/belts for my comfort.

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thevisad

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Wittmason
Haha yeh the mechanical fixes were from me. Funny I was referred to that. This is more or less not enough torque from the motor.
I eyed that extruder on Thingiverse for awhile. I think I'll try that.

Here is my remix of the item. I removed the mounting ear on it as it's no longer needed and get's in the way. I left the motor mounted on the frame using their mount.

Would you mind showing us a pic of how you mounted the extruder with the mounting ear cut off? I'd be interested in making one, but I'm a bit unclear on how to mount it with your remix.

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newline

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jculver09

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newline
I heard back from Derek @ robotdigg... "I am afraid we use a corner idler."
I haven't heard back yet on where to get them or how much.

Sure wish the robotdigg web store had said that this was required, or at least had a picture that showed it

In that image it looks as though the idler rides on bearings which I assume are pressed into the aluminum (I see no other way of affixing them in the image).

Have you measured the holes? My bet is you could find the bearings that fit the aluminum and mount your own shaft and bearings instead of their idler. I would avoid their idler because the flanges are almost guaranteed not to align with where your belt will want to ride (I could be wrong though), this will cause the belt to slowly shave itself away on the flange, over time causing the belt to fail.

My fix would be to fit the bearings into the aluminum (bearings will probably be 608 or 624 or something else common in the reprap world). Get a bolt long enough and large enough to match the ID of the bearing, and throw a stack of bearings on the bolt so that no matter where the belt wants to ride it will be on smooth bearing, no gaps, no flanges, no problems.

The two holes next to the idle make me think the whole assembly could be held in with a plate that is not shown (rather than press-fit bearings). If you go the idler route I would ask more questions about how it is held in place (additional hardware/parts).

The holes are 10mm

FYI, My Folgertech Kossel 2020 Kit came with three (3) un-flanged bearings for each top corner, although the instructions show two flanged, and one un-flanged bearing. Apparently, Folgertech came to the same conclusion. It is better to let the belt float and seek its own stable position. The flanges are apparently unnecessary, and cause more problems than they fix.

My first print on my Folgertech Kossel.


Next up calibrate the extruder.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2015 09:29AM by Wittmason.

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mmcginnis9272
...extruder with the mounting ear cut off?

I used the acrylic mount that came from Folger, so the mounting ears are superfluous. (The rubber band goes to a clip on the wire loom to the effector)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2015 10:21AM by Deguello.