Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

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dc42

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thevisad
It has it's own web interface but it seems minimal, I really liked the latest build of the web interface for the duet. However, I am sure not much effort would be taken in migrating the web page over to the Smoothie. I might buy one just to tinker with.

The Duet has 32K more RAM than the Smoothieboard, and the TCP/IP stack that supports the web interface needs quite a lot of RAM for buffering, especially when supporting multiple clients such as PC and smartphone. So you would probably have to make some substantial savings in RAM usage somewhere. I guess the Smoothieboard 2 will have more RAM.

Lol, I have an Arduino mega with a W5200 ethernet shield running a web interface with multiple timers kicking off every few seconds and collecting data from a barometric pressure sensor, a ultrasonic sensor, a PIR sensor and a humidity sensor. This can all be access from multiple devices at the same time and it displays the data and refreshes the page on all of the devices every 6 seconds and the mega has 8 x less memory then the Duet. They have room to grow a bit I am sure.

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thevisad

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davidf01

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thevisad

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davidf01

Thanks thevisad, I get no LED light and the fuses seem just fine no indications that they are blown. I have no LED light and can't get a reading from the stepper drivers. Im at a loss here. Not sure what to do.

You should get the LED to blink just off of the RAMPS USB connection (power) but you won't get any of the others unless you plug it into 12 v via the polarized green block. If you have a multimeter you can test for your power at the green block, make sure to connect the power properly at the block in a +-+- pattern.

Ok I get the light when I plug it into the USB but I get nothing when I plug in the power cord. In this picture you can see the light when it is plugged in to the USB but nothing when it is running on the power cord. Will I get the correct v-ref numbers if i
try to set the stepper v-ref using the USB plug instead of the power cord?

I put my multi meter on the green block and it does show 12v there.

You are required to have the proper 12v rail feeding the steppers in order to get the vref right. You can connect prornterface to it and power the hotbed/end and you should see the other power lights become active.

No, you don't . . . VRef is defined by the 5v source, and no other power is required to set it. Considering that in stock config, 5v comes from the Arduino, the source of power to the Arduino is pretty much irrelevant.

- Tim

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tadawson

No, you don't . . . VRef is defined by the 5v source, and no other power is required to set it. Considering that in stock config, 5v comes from the Arduino, the source of power to the Arduino is pretty much irrelevant.

- Tim

I stand corrected, Tim is right you do not need the 12v supply it will work off of the USB power. It will not step without power connected to the 12v rail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmzgHpFwtXg

Quote
cman8
Whats the major benefit that all of you see in upgrading to either smoothie or duet?

What made me go for the duet was:

Segment free printing
Control via WEB interface
Supposedly good autocalicration (I have yet to play with this)
Digital current control for the steppers (It is a nice feature but fiddling with the pots is a one time thing so really not that important)
+ A real big plus, at least at the moment, the incredible support and active developement done by David Crocker

A good price didn't hurt either.

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thevisad

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dc42

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thevisad
It has it's own web interface but it seems minimal, I really liked the latest build of the web interface for the duet. However, I am sure not much effort would be taken in migrating the web page over to the Smoothie. I might buy one just to tinker with.

The Duet has 32K more RAM than the Smoothieboard, and the TCP/IP stack that supports the web interface needs quite a lot of RAM for buffering, especially when supporting multiple clients such as PC and smartphone. So you would probably have to make some substantial savings in RAM usage somewhere. I guess the Smoothieboard 2 will have more RAM.

Lol, I have an Arduino mega with a W5200 ethernet shield running a web interface with multiple timers kicking off every few seconds and collecting data from a barometric pressure sensor, a ultrasonic sensor, a PIR sensor and a humidity sensor. This can all be access from multiple devices at the same time and it displays the data and refreshes the page on all of the devices every 6 seconds and the mega has 8 x less memory then the Duet. They have room to grow a bit I am sure.

Try uploading multi megabyte files to the Arduino at a reasonable speed, and you will soon find that the simplistic approach that works fine for just returning a few kb of data doesn't scale. Even returning a complex web page with multiple .js and .css files requires a lot of buffers unless you tolerate very long page load times. Try serving DuetWebControl from your Arduino Mega and you will see what I mean.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42

Try uploading multi megabyte files to the Arduino at a reasonable speed, and you will soon find that the simplistic approach that works fine for just returning a few kb of data doesn't scale. Even returning a complex web page with multiple .js and .css files requires a lot of buffers unless you tolerate very long page load times. Try serving DuetWebControl from your Arduino Mega and you will see what I mean.

Oh no, I completely understand that, I am a c/php developer/systems admin who works with networking and a variety of systems. I am just pointing out that it can be done and it can be tweaked to work better. Playing with just the web page that I have designed for the sensors, the page response is blazing fast. It's not a printer, so there is not that overhead sitting on it as well. However, when I originally wrote it, it crawled due to the calls to the sensors. After a few quick adjustments there is zero slow down.

Firmware configuration question. I'm trying to configure the firmware but the instructions are not for RevB of this printer. I have the software installed but opening Arduino and
trying to follow the instructions does not work. I don't see a 20 tooth firmware download all I see is KosselRevB Firmmware.zip file. In that file are two other files named KosselRevB and KosselRevBPE.
I also can't find the file Marlin_delta2.ino that the instructions want me to load in Arduino. The instructions are from the REV A version since Rev B has nothing.

When I try doing things i get and error:

Multiple libraries were found for "Configuration.h"
Used: C:\Users\David\Documents\Arduino\libraries\KosselRevBPE
Not used: C:\Users\David\Documents\Arduino\libraries\KosselRevB
Error compiling.

Can anyone point my in the right direction in loading all the software?

Thanks

Dave

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2015 12:40PM by davidf01.

Quote
Koenig

Quote
cman8
Whats the major benefit that all of you see in upgrading to either smoothie or duet?

What made me go for the duet was:

Segment free printing
Control via WEB interface
Supposedly good autocalicration (I have yet to play with this)
Digital current control for the steppers (It is a nice feature but fiddling with the pots is a one time thing so really not that important)
+ A real big plus, at least at the moment, the incredible support and active developement done by David Crocker

A good price didn't hurt either.

This is what drew me to the board as well. The fact that someone in the forums had made an addon for it (paneldue/dc42) was an added bonus. I am still hopeful about the Duet despite the problems I have had with it. I guess the question I would have is the pcb boards Replikeo is getting the same as the others or are they having them made somewhere? The last board I received had a white label over the top of the silkscreen where the t3p3 logo was.

Quote
thevisad

Quote
Koenig

Quote
cman8
Whats the major benefit that all of you see in upgrading to either smoothie or duet?

What made me go for the duet was:

Segment free printing
Control via WEB interface
Supposedly good autocalicration (I have yet to play with this)
Digital current control for the steppers (It is a nice feature but fiddling with the pots is a one time thing so really not that important)
+ A real big plus, at least at the moment, the incredible support and active developement done by David Crocker

A good price didn't hurt either.

This is what drew me to the board as well. The fact that someone in the forums had made an addon for it (paneldue/dc42) was an added bonus. I am still hopeful about the Duet despite the problems I have had with it. I guess the question I would have is the pcb boards Replikeo is getting the same as the others or are they having them made somewhere? The last board I received had a white label over the top of the silkscreen where the t3p3 logo was.

Mine says RepRap PRO and Think3dPrint3d.

Now I have very limited experience of PCB's but from the little I have, this board feels quite heavy/solid so I would guess there's plenty of copper in it.

Still have a few questions as the printer is nearly working but not really.

1-
x and y move 10mm when we see 10mm on the LCD screen
z moves 65mm instead of 2mm as shown on the LCD screen
Why is the z axis moving 32.5x more than it should? is the stepper motor defective?
I see that if I go in control-->motion--> zstep is 2500steps/mm and x and y are 85steps/mm

2- what position is the carriage supposed to be at when set to 0mm?

3- the limit switches and the z-probe don't stop the motors. When I do autohome, the carriage goes all the way to the limit switch, hits it and keeps hitting until it runs out of motion. It does not stop the stepper motors! I do see the red LED light up when I press on the limit switch, but nothing is stopped.

4- The same goes for the z-probe, the probe gets close to the board, the light is on, but it lights up brighter when the probe gets close to the bed, but again, the stepper motors are still going.

Quote
Koenig


Mine says RepRap PRO and Think3dPrint3d.

Now I have very limited experience of PCB's but from the little I have, this board feels quite heavy/solid so I would guess there's plenty of copper in it.

Yeah if you look at the board design it's got a lot of copper in the design, just the front alone is roughly half filled with copper. I am going to dissect the one that I can communicate with and see if I can actually identify where the break is. I assume it's in one of the interior vias not being connected during the manufacturing process. I noticed that the silkscreen on the boards is very blurry on 2 of the boards and the third has what looks to be the trace lines patterns on the silkscreen. I can see the lettering R3 very prominently in the solid white portion of the RepRap logos as well as trace lines from around the area where R3 is located on the board.


Board that doesn't work


Board that did work


R3 section


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2015 03:07PM by thevisad.

In response to thevisad and Koenig's exchange regarding Duet boards from Replikeo:

I think it is almost certain that Replikeo is getting the PCBs manufactured and assembled by a different company or companies than RepRapPro is. I suspect the biggest issue is with testing. It is usually impossible to test an electronic circuit board adequately and economically without building automated test equipment (ATE) for the purpose. I remember writing a rant addressed to RepRapPro on this subject last year, because it became evident from the faults users reported with Duet boards that they were inadequately tested prior to shipment. The quality appears to be better these days. I suspect that Replikeo may have taken the open source Duet design and commissioned board manufacture without considering how they were going to test the boards. I hope they are learning (as RepRapPro seems to have done) and the fault rate of the boards they ship will reduce over time as they improve their QA.

I understand that the Duet 0.8.5 boards are manufactured for T3P3 in the UK, so the supply chain is completely different from both the RepRapPro and Replikeo boards.

And yes, I do use ATE rigs to test the IR sensor boards I sell.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

So I have managed to load the software and loaded the kosselRevBPE firmmware on the printer. When I start pronterface it does connect to the printer but when I issue the
code G28 to the printer moves down away from the stops. May X Y and Z axis dont seem to be correct either. I think my Y and Z are reversed. I checked all the connections
and they are correct I think. They are plugged in X Y and Z with Z being the farthest away from where the power connects.

I'm afraid I will break something when the print head crashed into the heat bed. Is there some way to cancel the command through ponterface?


Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2015 08:15AM by davidf01.

Quote
davidf01
So I have managed to load the software and loaded the kosselRevBPE firmmware on the printer. When I start pronterface it does connect to the printer but when I issue the
code G28 to the printer moves down away from the stops. May X Y and Z axis dont seem to be correct either. I think my Y and Z are reversed. I checked all the connections
and they are correct I think. They are plugged in X Y and Z with Z being the farthest away from where the power connects.

I'm afraid I will break something when the print head crashed into the heat bed. Id there some way to cancel the command through ponterface?\


Thanks

If all motors goes in the same direction (but wrong) you could just turn all the motor-connectors 180 degrees on the RAMPS, just remember to disconnect all power before doing this.

The order you have put the connector seem right, Z is the one with double motor-connector-pins, this is for cartesian printers who use double Z-steppers.

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01
So I have managed to load the software and loaded the kosselRevBPE firmmware on the printer. When I start pronterface it does connect to the printer but when I issue the
code G28 to the printer moves down away from the stops. May X Y and Z axis dont seem to be correct either. I think my Y and Z are reversed. I checked all the connections
and they are correct I think. They are plugged in X Y and Z with Z being the farthest away from where the power connects.

I'm afraid I will break something when the print head crashed into the heat bed. Id there some way to cancel the command through ponterface?\


Thanks

If all motors goes in the same direction (but wrong) you could just turn all the motor-connectors 180 degrees on the RAMPS, just remember to disconnect all power before doing this.

The order you have put the connector seem right, Z is the one with double motor-connector-pins, this is for cartesian printers who use double Z-steppers.

I flipped the connectors around and Y and Z move in the right direction but the X axis moves toward the hot bed no matter what direction the connector is plugged in.

Could I have the wrong firmware loaded? The instructions said nothing about kosselRevBPE or kosselREVB those are just what I pulled down off the google docs page. I just took a guess and tried loading one.

Edit: I put the connectors back to normal and checked the firmmware and I saw that some of the pullup settings were way off as well as #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS setting. I'm trying to do the sheet of paper
but cant get the print head to go lower then 100mm above the hotbed. How can I adjust that?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2015 01:14PM by davidf01.

It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Are the odd lines on this print an artifact of segmentation? I can print long straight lines more or less flawlessly but anything with some curve to it ends up having patterns like this on it. I'd like to think it's a software issue somewhere in the toolchain, it doesn't look repeatable enough to be a hardware issue.

Any thoughts? If it is a segmentation issue, it'll likely get cleared up soon, I finally ordered a duet from replikeo...

edit: For reference I added a pic of something with no curve, it has no odd lines on it...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2015 04:09PM by wrangellboy.

Quote
tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

It is probably skipping steps, you most likely have a "jam" in the hotend, the clones they send out with this kit are not particularly good when it comes to getting the filament in the first time or at changes, it has to many uneven edges inside of it.

Loosen the bowden-tube at the hotend and make sure you have enough filament sticking out of the tube so it runs through the entire hotend, heat it, push the filament in making sure you extrude some before you connect the hose.
It's was a PITA to change filament with the with this hotend and that coldend from rev A, I suppose it has gotten a lot easier since they have started using a springloaded coldend.

Quote
djtrance2
Still have a few questions as the printer is nearly working but not really.

1-
x and y move 10mm when we see 10mm on the LCD screen
z moves 65mm instead of 2mm as shown on the LCD screen
Why is the z axis moving 32.5x more than it should? is the stepper motor defective?
I see that if I go in control-->motion--> zstep is 2500steps/mm and x and y are 85steps/mm

2- what position is the carriage supposed to be at when set to 0mm?

3- the limit switches and the z-probe don't stop the motors. When I do autohome, the carriage goes all the way to the limit switch, hits it and keeps hitting until it runs out of motion. It does not stop the stepper motors! I do see the red LED light up when I press on the limit switch, but nothing is stopped.

4- The same goes for the z-probe, the probe gets close to the board, the light is on, but it lights up brighter when the probe gets close to the bed, but again, the stepper motors are still going.

Having the exact same issue as your number 3 and 4.
This with DavidF01 might be related to my problem.
The M119 command returns correctly with z-min being triggered when its close to the plate but it seems to be ignored by the config
I don't think I have wired anything wrong with the gcodes returning correctly but I could be wrong.

Quote
swago

Quote
djtrance2
Still have a few questions as the printer is nearly working but not really.

1-
x and y move 10mm when we see 10mm on the LCD screen
z moves 65mm instead of 2mm as shown on the LCD screen
Why is the z axis moving 32.5x more than it should? is the stepper motor defective?
I see that if I go in control-->motion--> zstep is 2500steps/mm and x and y are 85steps/mm

2- what position is the carriage supposed to be at when set to 0mm?

3- the limit switches and the z-probe don't stop the motors. When I do autohome, the carriage goes all the way to the limit switch, hits it and keeps hitting until it runs out of motion. It does not stop the stepper motors! I do see the red LED light up when I press on the limit switch, but nothing is stopped.

4- The same goes for the z-probe, the probe gets close to the board, the light is on, but it lights up brighter when the probe gets close to the bed, but again, the stepper motors are still going.

Having the exact same issue as your number 3 and 4.
This with DavidF01 might be related to my problem.
The M119 command returns correctly with z-min being triggered when its close to the plate but it seems to be ignored by the config
I don't think I have wired anything wrong with the gcodes returning correctly but I could be wrong.

You have something wired wrong, the light is supposed to be off until it gets near an object.

Quote
wrangellboy
Are the odd lines on this print an artifact of segmentation? I can print long straight lines more or less flawlessly but anything with some curve to it ends up having patterns like this on it. I'd like to think it's a software issue somewhere in the toolchain, it doesn't look repeatable enough to be a hardware issue.

Any thoughts? If it is a segmentation issue, it'll likely get cleared up soon, I finally ordered a duet from replikeo...

It doesn't look like a segmentation issue to me, more likely either a slicing issue or a firmware timing issue. Can you see the head pausing or slowing down at the positions of those vertical seams? Which slicer did you use?

If you have segmentation issues then they can normally be seen on the side faces of a cube, although you may need to get the light shining on the cube in a certain way to see the patterns caused by segmentation. So your photo of a flat face isn't any help. You will get some fringing on the flat faces anyway, the amount depends on your steps/mm. Try taking a photo looking along the layers of the flat-face print instead of across them.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42

Quote
wrangellboy
Are the odd lines on this print an artifact of segmentation? I can print long straight lines more or less flawlessly but anything with some curve to it ends up having patterns like this on it. I'd like to think it's a software issue somewhere in the toolchain, it doesn't look repeatable enough to be a hardware issue.

Any thoughts? If it is a segmentation issue, it'll likely get cleared up soon, I finally ordered a duet from replikeo...

It doesn't look like a segmentation issue to me, more likely either a slicing issue or a firmware timing issue. Can you see the head pausing or slowing down at the positions of those vertical seams? Which slicer did you use?

If you have segmentation issues then they can normally be seen on the side faces of a cube, although you may need to get the light shining on the cube in a certain way to see the patterns caused by segmentation. So your photo of a flat face isn't any help. You will get some fringing on the flat faces anyway, the amount depends on your steps/mm. Try taking a photo looking along the layers of the flat-face print instead of across them.

The head definitely does a stutter right along the affected areas. I'm not a good enough photographer to get a decent photo along the flat face, but it's pretty smooth from any angle I look at it. I see the same effect with pretty much anything I print with a long curved surface, that seemed to rule out a slicing issue to me. I suppose I can try a different slicer to see if that helps. Printing from USB/SD both show the same issue, so it's not a comms thing. Slowing the print down does help, but not eliminate it entirely. But that's not a lot of help, slowing things down fixes almost everything it seems. I'm currently printing at about 60mm/s which I don't think is particularly fast. I'm printing this currently and it has long straight very predictable lines up all the faces...

If you are seeing the print stutter, then it sounds like either the firmware can't keep up, or the gcode has short travel moves at intervals between the extruding moves where extrusion ought to be continuous. I've seen that in gcode generated by Cura for spiral vase prints - looks like a bug to me.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Anyone using octoprint? Think I might try this just as a side little project to do something while I wait for my azteeg board. Is it easy to configure and run? I have a raspberry pi I have from using it from something else thats just there. I saw someone here used it was wondering if anyone else has too?

I updated slic3r and now when I click slic3r setting in Pronterface slic3r opens but closes right away. How can I get slic3r working from pronterface or should I just load
slic3r independently?

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

As others have already stated, either an obstruction in the filament path, or you don't have the driver voltage set correctly for the extruder . . . on the Folger 2020 (well, at least mine) the extruder motor is totally different than the axis motors, and would not feed reliably until I set .85 to .9 volts as VRef for it . . . and it runs barely warm on multi hour jobs at that setting. Unless they have updated, the manual setting for this is just plain wrong . . .

- Tim

Quote
tadawson

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

As others have already stated, either an obstruction in the filament path, or you don't have the driver voltage set correctly for the extruder . . . on the Folger 2020 (well, at least mine) the extruder motor is totally different than the axis motors, and would not feed reliably until I set .85 to .9 volts as VRef for it . . . and it runs barely warm on multi hour jobs at that setting. Unless they have updated, the manual setting for this is just plain wrong . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim. I'm going to bump up the extruder VRef and see how it goes. I did end up getting some flow from the filament so we will see. My problem now it I get a sample model sliced
and then load the g-code into Pronterface. When I start the print it does what it should and waits till the bed and hotend are heated up and starts printing. The problem is there is no Z movement so it is printing
in mid air. I have no clue why this is printing in mid air instead of down at the bed.

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

As others have already stated, either an obstruction in the filament path, or you don't have the driver voltage set correctly for the extruder . . . on the Folger 2020 (well, at least mine) the extruder motor is totally different than the axis motors, and would not feed reliably until I set .85 to .9 volts as VRef for it . . . and it runs barely warm on multi hour jobs at that setting. Unless they have updated, the manual setting for this is just plain wrong . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim. I'm going to bump up the extruder VRef and see how it goes. I did end up getting some flow from the filament so we will see. My problem now it I get a sample model sliced
and then load the g-code into Pronterface. When I start the print it does what it should and waits till the bed and hotend are heated up and starts printing. The problem is there is no Z movement so it is printing
in mid air. I have no clue why this is printing in mid air instead of down at the bed.

Could it be that your endstops is set as MIN instead of MAX, then the printer would think that it is at Z=0 when you home it, this might have affected your previous problem as well.

Quote
Koenig

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson

Quote
davidf01

Quote
tadawson
It isn't possible for a motor to not change direction if the connector is reversed . . . likely, you moved the wrong connector . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim,

I did manage to get the printer configured so far. No more crashing and the printer tip is snug to a piece of paper.

The question I have now is the extruder does not extrude the filament. I heat the hotend up and it starts to push through but then it kind of does small jerky movements
forward and backwards, Any idea what that is? Also how do I get the auto level working? There is no information about that in the manuals?

Thanks
Dave

As others have already stated, either an obstruction in the filament path, or you don't have the driver voltage set correctly for the extruder . . . on the Folger 2020 (well, at least mine) the extruder motor is totally different than the axis motors, and would not feed reliably until I set .85 to .9 volts as VRef for it . . . and it runs barely warm on multi hour jobs at that setting. Unless they have updated, the manual setting for this is just plain wrong . . .

- Tim

Thanks Tim. I'm going to bump up the extruder VRef and see how it goes. I did end up getting some flow from the filament so we will see. My problem now it I get a sample model sliced
and then load the g-code into Pronterface. When I start the print it does what it should and waits till the bed and hotend are heated up and starts printing. The problem is there is no Z movement so it is printing
in mid air. I have no clue why this is printing in mid air instead of down at the bed.

Could it be that your endstops is set as MIN instead of MAX, then the printer would think that it is at Z=0 when you home it, this might have affected your previous problem as well.

Ok that sounds like I should check it. That endstop min/max thing is in the firmmware correct? I'm gonna have to figure that out.

Here is what it says for my endstops. I'm not sure what it should be though. Does this seem right?

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/08/2015 08:24AM by davidf01.