Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Hey y'all, Finally got my printer back into a "working" order, in that it will now move when commands are sent to it. to Flish: I want to thank you for your ideas, they helped. I had to fool the printer into thinking it had more build volume than what it did in order to caluclate the actual build volume. That problem is solved but now am experiencing another "issue" I went to configure the xy settings and is it typical to have the postive negative values significantly different from eachother (obviously because of the end stops)? Also, when traveling the nozzle on the (-x) axis the nozzle raises up (+z) as it goes further away from center, it was hard to measure but I approximate about 1 mm in (+z) Any ideas as to what may be causing this?

I figured out what was causing some problems for me and just wanted to share what I was experencing and what I did to correct it. My verticle supports kept moving downward, I had actually stripped some of the heads on the supplied 8mm socket screw so it was as tight as it could go, unfortunately I can't back it out --- no problem, drilled a hole inbetween the two screw holes and through the 2020 Al, tapped it and added a long screw to keep it locked in place. I believe the tension on the belts may have been to much which was causing the supports to be pulled down, I also adjusted the tension on the belts to be less. My top endstops were also subtly moving upward which was causing the printer to loose all sense of its actual build volume. I had to modify the mounting brackets provided so that the endstop assembly would sit on it better and also added thin washers which spanned the gap in the 2020 Al. So, now things which aren't supposed to move around aren't, at least I hope. Another problem I was experiencing was the wire harness and/or guide tube was getting caught inbetween the endstop and the carrier mechanism. I had to reposition my extruder servo to the top of the machine and move the wire harness out from inbetween the arms of the device supporting the hot end to a spot inbetween the aluminum extruders.

Any help as to why it is traveling upwards when moving would be helpful.

Thanks.

Quote
moeman
Hey y'all, Finally got my printer back into a "working" order, in that it will now move when commands are sent to it. to Flish: I want to thank you for your ideas, they helped. I had to fool the printer into thinking it had more build volume than what it did in order to caluclate the actual build volume. That problem is solved but now am experiencing another "issue" I went to configure the xy settings and is it typical to have the postive negative values significantly different from eachother (obviously because of the end stops)? Also, when traveling the nozzle on the (-x) axis the nozzle raises up (+z) as it goes further away from center, it was hard to measure but I approximate about 1 mm in (+z) Any ideas as to what may be causing this?

I figured out what was causing some problems for me and just wanted to share what I was experencing and what I did to correct it. My verticle supports kept moving downward, I had actually stripped some of the heads on the supplied 8mm socket screw so it was as tight as it could go, unfortunately I can't back it out --- no problem, drilled a hole inbetween the two screw holes and through the 2020 Al, tapped it and added a long screw to keep it locked in place. I believe the tension on the belts may have been to much which was causing the supports to be pulled down, I also adjusted the tension on the belts to be less. My top endstops were also subtly moving upward which was causing the printer to loose all sense of its actual build volume. I had to modify the mounting brackets provided so that the endstop assembly would sit on it better and also added thin washers which spanned the gap in the 2020 Al. So, now things which aren't supposed to move around aren't, at least I hope. Another problem I was experiencing was the wire harness and/or guide tube was getting caught inbetween the endstop and the carrier mechanism. I had to reposition my extruder servo to the top of the machine and move the wire harness out from inbetween the arms of the device supporting the hot end to a spot inbetween the aluminum extruders.

Any help as to why it is traveling upwards when moving would be helpful.

Thanks.

The moving upward is normal if you haven't calibrated your printer. See step 3 on this link.

Hi,

I am the new owner of Folger Tech Kossel 2020 (rev. B, aluminum corners), this is my first 3D printer, - after reading a lot of forums, wiki, etc I decided to pick the hard way and buy delta
After some issues (no surprise) like wrong bolts, bad endstop mountings I finally successfully flashed Marlin (got some OK prints but had issues with autoleveling), then Repetier 0.92.5 (finally got everything working, includind G29 and G32. Overall, I'm happy with results, even printed 0.1mm layered prosthesis for my son's action figure foot joint

But the only thing that doesn't allow me to sleep well - is strange behavior of z-probe near Y tower. All axes return pretty consistent results, like:

20:54:12.783 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:15.529 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:18.259 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:20.942 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00

but z-probing near Y tower return something like this:

20:54:27.713 : Z-probe:3.74 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:49.740 : Z-probe:3.78 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:53.437 : Z-probe:3.81 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:56.276 : Z-probe:3.81 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:58.960 : Z-probe:3.82 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out the weak spot. Everything runs smooth, belt tensions are the same, the pulley fixed well (I slightly flatted motor shafts with dremel). Is it possible that Y motor is defective and has some kind of backlash?

Hope forum's guru will show me the right place to dig.

Thanks!

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 10/18/2015 10:04PM by paul_delta.

I have read that the E3D v6 lets you print at a faster speed. Do you guys that have the E3D V6 print at a faster speed? If so what speed to you print at?

Thanks

Quote
paul_delta
Hi,

I am the new owner of Folger Tech Kossel 2020 (rev. B, aluminum corners), this is my first 3D printer, - after reading a lot of forums, wiki, etc I decided to pick the hard way and buy delta
After some issues (no surprise) like wrong bolts, bad endstop mountings I finally successfully flashed Marlin (got some OK prints but had issues with autoleveling), then Repetier 0.92.5 (finally got everything working, includind G29 and G32. Overall, I'm happy with results, even printed 0.1mm layered prosthesis for my son's action figure foot joint

But the only thing that doesn't allow me to sleep well - is strange behavior of z-probe near Y tower. All axes return pretty consistent results, like:

20:54:12.783 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:15.529 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:18.259 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:20.942 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00

but z-probing near Y tower return something like this:

20:54:27.713 : Z-probe:3.74 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:49.740 : Z-probe:3.78 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:53.437 : Z-probe:3.81 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:56.276 : Z-probe:3.81 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:58.960 : Z-probe:3.82 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out the weak spot. Everything runs smooth, belt tensions are the same, the pulley fixed well (I slightly flatted motor shafts with dremel). Is it possible that Y motor is defective and has some kind of backlash?

Hope forum's guru will show me the right place to dig.

Thanks!

Is your build plate level? Put a straight edge on it at multiple angles from the Z tower and see if there is any gaps. My build plate has a very strange area that is warped in a convex shape but only between the
Z tower and X tower and flattens out the closer to you get center. My hotend starts to scrape the build plate between the Z tower and X tower about 25mm out from center and about 15 to 20mm wide then the rest of he print is fine. As the hotend moves up on the Z axis the warped area does not effect the print because the nozzle is about the warped part.

Thanks to some folks on here that gave me some advise I had to add a glass print bed on top of the aluminum one to finally get a flat print bed. Folger kept saying that I had to calibrate the printer. I don't think
that they get that the print bed is warped in such a way that you cant over come it by calibrating. My calibration is right on the money at the towers and center and as far as I know there is no way to calibrate in between
the towers.

Quote
davidf01

Quote
paul_delta
Hi,

But the only thing that doesn't allow me to sleep well - is strange behavior of z-probe near Y tower. All axes return pretty consistent results, like:

20:54:12.783 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:15.529 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:18.259 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:20.942 : Z-probe:3.86 X:-79.00 Y:-45.00 zCorr:0.00

but z-probing near Y tower return something like this:

20:54:27.713 : Z-probe:3.74 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:49.740 : Z-probe:3.78 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:53.437 : Z-probe:3.81 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:56.276 : Z-probe:3.81 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00
20:54:58.960 : Z-probe:3.82 X:70.00 Y:-41.00 zCorr:0.00

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out the weak spot. Everything runs smooth, belt tensions are the same, the pulley fixed well (I slightly flatted motor shafts with dremel). Is it possible that Y motor is defective and has some kind of backlash?

Hope forum's guru will show me the right place to dig.

Thanks!

Is your build plate level? Put a straight edge on it at multiple angles from the Z tower and see if there is any gaps. My build plate has a very strange area that is warped in a convex shape but only between the
Z tower and X tower and flattens out the closer to you get center. My hotend starts to scrape the build plate between the Z tower and X tower about 25mm out from center and about 15 to 20mm wide then the rest of he print is fine. As the hotend moves up on the Z axis the warped area does not effect the print because the nozzle is about the warped part.

Thanks to some folks on here that gave me some advise I had to add a glass print bed on top of the aluminum one to finally get a flat print bed. Folger kept saying that I had to calibrate the printer. I don't think
that they get that the print bed is warped in such a way that you cant over come it by calibrating. My calibration is right on the money at the towers and center and as far as I know there is no way to calibrate in between
the towers.

I don't have problem with leveling (but yes - the aluminum plate is another story.... thanks to Repetier distortion correction. BTW I have the same problem spot - between Z and Y. Probably the whole lot is crappy). The problem is that when I z-probe _the_same_ coorditate near Y tower - I have rising Z number. Spots near X and Z towers return the same height every time I probe.

PS: today I carefully inspected ball joins and paid attention that one of them on Y diagonal rod has more that usual backslash. So, probably this is the source of this problem. These ball joints clones really piece of crap. Probably I'll change them for magnets.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2015 10:20PM by paul_delta.

Quote
davidf01
I have read that the E3D v6 lets you print at a faster speed. Do you guys that have the E3D V6 print at a faster speed? If so what speed to you print at?

Thanks

The E3D, being a well designed hot end, will allow faster printing speeds, but only over any limitation you were experiencing with flow at higher speeds. Cheap non all-metal hot ends will reach a point where they can no longer evenly melt the plastic at a rate sufficient to keep up with the speed, resulting in inconsistent or under extrusion. I have no idea what the upper limit is, but by careful control of the temperature in relation to speed, I have yet to hit the limit of the hot end with PLA or ABS. Once you hit the mechanical limit of your printer, the hot end makes no difference and that is your ceiling.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/20/2015 01:54PM by Vlerherg.

Has anyone else had issues with Z Probing (Proximity type) with Marlin? I am trying to switch to Repetier firmware to get the auto probing to work....

Quote
plrmaker7
Has anyone else had issues with Z Probing (Proximity type) with Marlin? I am trying to switch to Repetier firmware to get the auto probing to work....

I spent a lot of time trying to setup Marlin (almost all branches on Github) for Kossler delta with proximity - no luck. Finally switched to Repetier 0.92.5. Here is my Config file, just in case, you may use it as starting point for your setup.

PS: In this configuration I connected extruder fan to Pin 9 of RAMPS, so the firmware turn fan on only if extruder temperature is 50 or higher.

PPS: the probing works, but sometimes behavior is very strange for final printing. Printed couple of models, including LCD box with distortion correction, but finally tuned 3 points manually and disabled everything The aluminum plate from FolgerTech is not very flat - I have gaps there and there, so now I'm looking for good glass to cover it...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2015 12:37PM by paul_delta.

Quote
paul_delta

Quote
plrmaker7
Has anyone else had issues with Z Probing (Proximity type) with Marlin? I am trying to switch to Repetier firmware to get the auto probing to work....

I spent a lot of time trying to setup Marlin (almost all branches on Github) for Kossler delta with proximity - no luck. Finally switched to Repetier 0.92.5. Here is my Config file, just in case, you may use it as starting point for your setup.

PS: In this configuration I connected extruder fan to Pin 9 of RAMPS, so the firmware turn fan on only if extruder temperature is 50 or higher.

PPS: the probing works, but sometimes behavior is very strange for final printing. Printed couple of models, including LCD box with distortion correction, but finally tuned 3 points manually and disabled everything The aluminum plate from FolgerTech is not very flat - I have gaps there and there, so now I'm looking for good glass to cover it...

Thanks Paul for the help!

Quote
paul_delta
The aluminum plate from FolgerTech is not very flat - I have gaps there and there, so now I'm looking for good glass to cover it...

If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, I can recommend using the 8" circular craft mirror they sell. It is heavy, flat and has a beveled edge that looks nice on the printer. Best of all, it is only $4. I abandoned the auto leveling right from the start, instead installing longer screws and heavy springs for 3-point manual leveling. I got it level once and have about 60 hours on the printer thus far and have not had to touch it yet. Sometimes imperfect technology is no match for tried and true simplicity!

Quote
Vlerherg

Quote
paul_delta
The aluminum plate from FolgerTech is not very flat - I have gaps there and there, so now I'm looking for good glass to cover it...

If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, I can recommend using the 8" circular craft mirror they sell. It is heavy, flat and has a beveled edge that looks nice on the printer. Best of all, it is only $4. I abandoned the auto leveling right from the start, instead installing longer screws and heavy springs for 3-point manual leveling. I got it level once and have about 60 hours on the printer thus far and have not had to touch it yet. Sometimes imperfect technology is no match for tried and true simplicity!

I have one, but Homedepot is only 5 min away, so I bought 8x10 glass, glass cutter and did it myself What a difference! I'm goind to dismount the probe at all - more confusing from this rocket science that help.

PS: tested PETG transparent filament from eSun - I like it, strong, no smell. I desinged simple filament holder in Sketchup, nothing attracted me on Thingiverse. PETG rules for such things, the main columns I printed in vase mode - only 1 perimeter layer. The horizontal rod - is a piece of carbon tube from the kit, it just clips in and that's it. Picture attached

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2015 06:59PM by paul_delta.

Hi Everyone.

I am a complete and total AMATEUR when it comes to 3D Printing. I ordered my Folger Tech Kossell 2020 from their website, it didn't arrive in the time specified but it wasn't an awful lot of a wait and when it arrived it was complete, I downloaded the rev-b manual and I thoroughly enjoyed putting it together, every part went together well and I'm thinking that as a resident of Northern Ireland I very well may be one of the 1st on the Block with one of these magnificent machines. HOWEVER! There is a problem, being a bit slow on the software side of the game I can't get it to work, If I had a complaint about Folgertech It's their Technical Support, It's like communicating with Pluto, you send a query, and you get a reply within 24-48 hours that's just no good. Can anyone out there help an Old Irishman who is a complete beginner to this game get his very impressive looking printer flashed and printing? By the way I built it in about 8 Hours thanks to that fantastic manual.

GOD Bless you all, and as we say in Ireland, "May you be in Heaven a day before the Devil knows you're Dead".

You guys that have ditched the probe, are you still using the acrylic bed mounts and/or spacers?

Quote
plrmaker7
You guys that have ditched the probe, are you still using the acrylic bed mounts and/or spacers?

I'm still using original kit mounts, but they suck, of course - too many mounting points and the whole system is very flimsy/unstable because of heat expansion/contraction.
I'm going to move to 3-point suspension, but not sure that printed clips is good solution - because of weak heat resistance and inability to mount near towers for easy calibration. Thinking about printing kind of mold for clips anf fill them with JB Weld putty. Another idea - to replace acrilyc mounts with square carbon fiber rods - CF has low heat extpansion and much stronger.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/22/2015 09:23AM by paul_delta.

Quote
paul_delta

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plrmaker7
You guys that have ditched the probe, are you still using the acrylic bed mounts and/or spacers?

I'm still using original kit mounts, but they suck, of course - too many mounting points and the whole system is very flimsy/unstable because of heat expansion/contraction.
I'm going to move to 3-point suspension, but not sure that printed clips is good solution - because of weak heat resistance and inability to mount near towers for easy calibration. Thinking about printing kind of mold for clips anf fill them with JB Weld putty. Another idea - to replace acrilyc mounts with square carbon fiber rods - CF has low heat extpansion and much stronger.

I would be interested in some sort of new mounting for the build plate. Does anyone have any suggestions about a quality upgrade for build plate mounting?

Quote
paul_delta

Quote
plrmaker7
You guys that have ditched the probe, are you still using the acrylic bed mounts and/or spacers?

I'm still using original kit mounts, but they suck, of course - too many mounting points and the whole system is very flimsy/unstable because of heat expansion/contraction.
I'm going to move to 3-point suspension, but not sure that printed clips is good solution - because of weak heat resistance and inability to mount near towers for easy calibration. Thinking about printing kind of mold for clips anf fill them with JB Weld putty. Another idea - to replace acrilyc mounts with square carbon fiber rods - CF has low heat extpansion and much stronger.

Yes they suck. I ordered screws yesterday and bought a round mirror from hobby lobby. the autoprobe was great (in theory) - kind of look forward to not using glue stick and using good old aquanet on the glass - all i use on my other printers.....

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davidf01
Does anyone have any suggestions about a quality upgrade for build plate mounting?

I think it's good idea to start new thread about FolgerTech printer mods.

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paul_delta
I have one, but Homedepot is only 5 min away, so I bought 8x10 glass, glass cutter and did it myself What a difference! I'm goind to dismount the probe at all - more confusing from this rocket science that help.

PS: tested PETG transparent filament from eSun - I like it, strong, no smell. I desinged simple filament holder in Sketchup, nothing attracted me on Thingiverse. PETG rules for such things, the main columns I printed in vase mode - only 1 perimeter layer. The horizontal rod - is a piece of carbon tube from the kit, it just clips in and that's it. Picture attached

I'll second the vote for PETG. Love the stuff and it is strong.

Quote
Motorwinter
Hi Everyone.

I am a complete and total AMATEUR when it comes to 3D Printing. I ordered my Folger Tech Kossell 2020 from their website, it didn't arrive in the time specified but it wasn't an awful lot of a wait and when it arrived it was complete, I downloaded the rev-b manual and I thoroughly enjoyed putting it together, every part went together well and I'm thinking that as a resident of Northern Ireland I very well may be one of the 1st on the Block with one of these magnificent machines. HOWEVER! There is a problem, being a bit slow on the software side of the game I can't get it to work, If I had a complaint about Folgertech It's their Technical Support, It's like communicating with Pluto, you send a query, and you get a reply within 24-48 hours that's just no good. Can anyone out there help an Old Irishman who is a complete beginner to this game get his very impressive looking printer flashed and printing? By the way I built it in about 8 Hours thanks to that fantastic manual.

GOD Bless you all, and as we say in Ireland, "May you be in Heaven a day before the Devil knows you're Dead".

What exactly is the problem you are experiencing? Are you able to connect to the printer at all?

I recommend the version of the firmware that was edited by another forum member, thevisad: https://github.com/thevisad/Marlin

It is what I used and had zero issues flashing the firmware and connecting to the printer. Once connected, you need to start the calibration process. Follow this process very carefully and methodically. I was able to go from start to first test print in a couple of hours: http://delta-calibration.s3-website-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/

I have other printers, but this is my first delta, so I am not an expert on the config - but I know what worked for me. Let us know!

EDIT: For some reason I noticed that the link to the calibration document is not working for me. In case it is the same for you, I found a copy of the HTML from the page. Just load it in your browser.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/22/2015 03:48PM by Vlerherg.

Quote
plrmaker7
You guys that have ditched the probe, are you still using the acrylic bed mounts and/or spacers?

For the time being I am still using the acrylic mounts. I just went to a 3-point manual leveling system with longer screws and springs. I actually used three different size springs per, nesting them together (what I had on-hand). Makes for a very firm mount and has not lost its setting after many hours of printing. I was initially worried about heat warping the acrylic, but with the heated bed being about 1/2 inch above and the heat transferred through the screw not being excessive, I will keep it the way it is unless I experience issues. At that point, I'll probably fabricate aluminum mounting braces that will also serve to stiffen the frame.

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davidf01
I have read that the E3D v6 lets you print at a faster speed. Do you guys that have the E3D V6 print at a faster speed? If so what speed to you print at?

Probably depends of nozzle diameter. With my stock 0.4 and layer height 0.3mm I can print using PLA at 100mm/s (infill, internal perimeter, external perimeter 50mm/s) with good quality.
Over 100-120mm/s the filament starts skipping - the nozzle can't accept the flow because of pressure. For example, at this speed my test cube 10mmx10mm with infill 30% takes under two minutes with additional side cooling 80mm fan.

So I'm calibrating my printer so a 20 x 20 x 20 MM cube is the correct size. I seem to have different sizes between different towers. Between the X and Y tower the cube is
right on at 20mm. Between the X and Z and Y and Z the cube is off, it is only 19.6mm. Also the height seems correct between the X and Y towers but when I measure the height
at the Z tower is is on the small size again 19.8mm high.

I'm not sure what I should be doing to try and correct this strange issue any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Quote
davidf01
So I'm calibrating my printer so a 20 x 20 x 20 MM cube is the correct size. I seem to have different sizes between different towers. Between the X and Y tower the cube is
right on at 20mm. Between the X and Z and Y and Z the cube is off, it is only 19.6mm. Also the height seems correct between the X and Y towers but when I measure the height
at the Z tower is is on the small size again 19.8mm high.

I'm not sure what I should be doing to try and correct this strange issue any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

There is an asterisk dimension test on Thingiverse. Print it and measure the lenght of each directions X/Y/Z. Then adjust each diagonal, as needed. In Repetier firmware - Corr. Diagonal A/B/C.

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paul_delta

Quote
davidf01
So I'm calibrating my printer so a 20 x 20 x 20 MM cube is the correct size. I seem to have different sizes between different towers. Between the X and Y tower the cube is
right on at 20mm. Between the X and Z and Y and Z the cube is off, it is only 19.6mm. Also the height seems correct between the X and Y towers but when I measure the height
at the Z tower is is on the small size again 19.8mm high.

I'm not sure what I should be doing to try and correct this strange issue any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

There is an asterisk dimension test on Thingiverse. Print it and measure the lenght of each directions X/Y/Z. Then adjust each diagonal, as needed. In Repetier firmware - Corr. Diagonal A/B/C.

PS: you have to enter difference between your original diagonal rod size you entered in the firmware and size of "rod" you calculated for each direction. Here is the screenshot of my eeprom taken from repetier host (in attachment).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 02:57PM by paul_delta.

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paul_delta

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paul_delta

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davidf01
So I'm calibrating my printer so a 20 x 20 x 20 MM cube is the correct size. I seem to have different sizes between different towers. Between the X and Y tower the cube is
right on at 20mm. Between the X and Z and Y and Z the cube is off, it is only 19.6mm. Also the height seems correct between the X and Y towers but when I measure the height
at the Z tower is is on the small size again 19.8mm high.

I'm not sure what I should be doing to try and correct this strange issue any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

There is an asterisk dimension test on Thingiverse. Print it and measure the lenght of each directions X/Y/Z. Then adjust each diagonal, as needed. In Repetier firmware - Corr. Diagonal A/B/C.

PS: you have to enter difference between your original diagonal rod size you entered in the firmware and size of "rod" you calculated for each direction. Here is the screenshot of my eeprom taken from repetier host (in attachment).

Ok so this is good information. I have an issue. I'm using pronterface and no eeprom. I would like to get eeprom working but when I turn it on in my firmware a lot of the codes don't seem to be working and I have no idea how to
correct eeprom. Back to your advice, Basically I need a way to adjust the diagonal rod dimensions per axis, is that correct?

Quote
davidf01
PS: you have to enter difference between your original diagonal rod size you entered in the firmware and size of "rod" you calculated for each direction. Here is the screenshot of my eeprom taken from repetier host (in attachment).

Ok so this is good information. I have an issue. I'm using pronterface and no eeprom. I would like to get eeprom working but when I turn it on in my firmware a lot of the codes don't seem to be working and I have no idea how to
correct eeprom. Back to your advice, Basically I need a way to adjust the diagonal rod dimensions per axis, is that correct?[/quote]

Yes, just find in firmware configuration file something like:

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0

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paul_delta

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davidf01
PS: you have to enter difference between your original diagonal rod size you entered in the firmware and size of "rod" you calculated for each direction. Here is the screenshot of my eeprom taken from repetier host (in attachment).

Ok so this is good information. I have an issue. I'm using pronterface and no eeprom. I would like to get eeprom working but when I turn it on in my firmware a lot of the codes don't seem to be working and I have no idea how to
correct eeprom. Back to your advice, Basically I need a way to adjust the diagonal rod dimensions per axis, is that correct?

Yes, just find in firmware configuration file something like:

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0[/quote]

Well this could be a problem. I don't seem to have anything like that for each tower. I only have one setting that I assume applies to all the diagonal rod corrections.

Quote
davidf01

Yes, just find in firmware configuration file something like:

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0

Well this could be a problem. I don't seem to have anything like that for each tower. I only have one setting that I assume applies to all the diagonal rod corrections.[/quote]

This is one of reasons why I switched to Repetier. Everything is configurable via GUI Host like 1-2-3.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 08:20PM by paul_delta.

Quote
paul_delta

Quote
davidf01

Yes, just find in firmware configuration file something like:

#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0

Well this could be a problem. I don't seem to have anything like that for each tower. I only have one setting that I assume applies to all the diagonal rod corrections.

This is one of reasons why I switched to Repetier. Everything is configurable via GUI Host like 1-2-3.[/quote]

I have Repetier loaded on my computer. I think I should see what it takes to use that. Should I be able to just plug in the settings I use in pronterface right into Repetier and get pretty close to the same results?