Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Did anyone have problems with the PSU switching off while printing ABS? That happened to me twice in a row now. I calculated I am using ~210 W at max (everything on 100% of the time), the PSU is rated to be 360 W. Still, it switches off after 5 .. 10 minutes. Anyone else having issues?

I just looked for every instance of "RADIUS" in the FW and, unfortunately, found nothing. Thanks for the suggestion though as it prompted me to look a little harder again and I found this:

#define X_MAX_POS 100
#define X_MIN_POS -100
#define Y_MAX_POS 100
#define Y_MIN_POS -100

They were set at ±75 and needed to be increased to ±100.

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Sir_Death

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Legrand
Sorry. Should have been more detailed.

I'm using the FT marlin firmware.

I do not know FT Marlin, but I assume this function similar in all Marlin Versions.

search for line like this in configuration.h:

#define DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS 100

The value at the end of the line is what you have to change...

Thanks for the quick feedback. I opened up my configuration.h file to follow your directions only to find the line already uncommented it reads as,
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS
The line above it reads exactly the same except it refers to the max endstops, if that matters.

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Legrand
I had this same problem. Try uncommenting this line in your configuration.h settings: #define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

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Gingerbreadman
Having problems when I run g29.
The head moves as though it is scanning the bed, in the x and y but steps up incrementally on the z until it hits the endstops at home. At that point I have to kill switch it or it will jam against the end stops.
I'm using repetier host v1.6.0, folgertech kossel rev b with the inductive probe, and the folgertech configuration rev.b file. I've set bed height and the z probe register correctly (lights up and shows in the log) . The g28 code works well, and the printer responded correctly when I ran a test calibration spiral print, though that was a sad print to say the least.
I'm sure I have wired or miscoded something since I am thrashing in the dark here and would like to preemptively apologize if the solution to this problem was offered earlier in this thread . My sad excuse for a 3d vocabulary hinders my search and comprehension of what little I have found and "understood"...thanks

MAX should be commented out.

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Gingerbreadman
Thanks for the quick feedback. I opened up my configuration.h file to follow your directions only to find the line already uncommented it reads as,
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS
The line above it reads exactly the same except it refers to the max endstops, if that matters.

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Legrand
I had this same problem. Try uncommenting this line in your configuration.h settings: #define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

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Gingerbreadman
Having problems when I run g29.
The head moves as though it is scanning the bed, in the x and y but steps up incrementally on the z until it hits the endstops at home. At that point I have to kill switch it or it will jam against the end stops.
I'm using repetier host v1.6.0, folgertech kossel rev b with the inductive probe, and the folgertech configuration rev.b file. I've set bed height and the z probe register correctly (lights up and shows in the log) . The g28 code works well, and the printer responded correctly when I ran a test calibration spiral print, though that was a sad print to say the least.
I'm sure I have wired or miscoded something since I am thrashing in the dark here and would like to preemptively apologize if the solution to this problem was offered earlier in this thread . My sad excuse for a 3d vocabulary hinders my search and comprehension of what little I have found and "understood"...thanks

Paul, thanks.

I really like the idea of replacing the probe in this case. Is Folger Tech selling a better probe type now? Or what probes could you and the others here recommend? Please post URLS, too. Thanks.

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Sven.L
I really like the idea of replacing the probe in this case. Is Folger Tech selling a better probe type now? Or what probes could you and the others here recommend? Please post URLS, too. Thanks.

I think FT doesn't sell rev.A (with printed corners) anymore, so this kind of probe is obsolete now. I saw better arm for this probe on Thingiverse:



If you are familiar with CAD software you can modify this arm to have the switch closer to the nozzle.

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

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Sven.L
Paul, thanks.

I really like the idea of replacing the probe in this case. Is Folger Tech selling a better probe type now? Or what probes could you and the others here recommend? Please post URLS, too. Thanks.

Well, you could use the spare endstop you received as a probe: [www.thingiverse.com]
I do so and I never looked back. Hall sensor probing is nice and all, but I have had better experiences just using a simple endstop switch.

I'm using this, and I've had good luck. I have one of these sitting on my desk waiting for installation.

The FSR's work well and I get excellent performance out of them, but they have a couple drawbacks:
1. They're heat sensitive, I have them semi insulated with a thin cork shim, but I'm not sure how they'd hold up to repeated usage at ABS temps.
2. Because of the cork shims, they're a bit tempermental with respect to bed placement. If I move my bed at all (to get at the electronics usually) I have to fiddle a bit to get it put back exactly where it needs to be or the sensors don't read correctly.
3. You can't hard mount your bed. I don't know that this really matters, but it's something to think about.
4. The head actually contacts the bed for probing. Which I've never had an issue with, but it seems like eventually there will be wear & tear.

To be fair, the differential sensor may well have drawbacks, but I've never used it so I don't really know. My concerns are:
1. More stuff on my hot end, so I have more wires in/out and more weight.
2. Surfaces matter, I'm not sure to what extent, but it's an optical probe so if your bed is too shiny (or whatever) it might mess things up. FSR's are physical, so this isn't an issue.

Here is another "hot end as probe" solution if you want to have a fun [www.thingiverse.com]

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

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paul_delta
Here is another "hot end as probe" solution if you want to have a fun [www.thingiverse.com]

2015-06-03_16.34.01_preview_featured.jpg

That effector doesn't look like it holds in the hot end by anything other than gravity.. do you know if this is the case? If so I might switch to it. That would make my probing process a lot easier

This is just one of variants. Usually the central part has a spring between the sensor and surface to hold it in place.
I was going to redesign this probe for my needs but after success with my zero offset probe mount I decided to stop my research.

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spiffcow
That effector doesn't look like it holds in the hot end by anything other than gravity.. do you know if this is the case? If so I might switch to it. That would make my probing process a lot easier

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

PS: to minimize backlash I'd add one more spring at opposite end. But it needs some redesign to add the spring holder.

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

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paul_delta
This is just one of variants. Usually the central part has a spring between the sensor and surface to hold it in place.
I was going to redesign this probe for my needs but after success with my zero offset probe mount I decided to stop my research.

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spiffcow
That effector doesn't look like it holds in the hot end by anything other than gravity.. do you know if this is the case? If so I might switch to it. That would make my probing process a lot easier

I really need to start putting some effort into OpenSCAD. What I *really* want is a clip-into-place hot end so that I can switch it out with the Z probe whenever I need to re-calibrate.

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spiffcow
I really need to start putting some effort into OpenSCAD. What I *really* want is a clip-into-place hot end so that I can switch it out with the Z probe whenever I need to re-calibrate.

I had similar idea - to modify the effector and exclude the bottom part at all.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2016 01:32PM by paul_delta.

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Yes, that's what I thought, since both Min and Max are commented out (with // ) is there any other configuration.H code I could address that might help solve the g29 issue?

Duh , I am not worthy ; I reread your sage advice a few dozen times until your meaning finally soaked through my thick skull! I went back to my configuration.h and removed the slashes for Min when I reran g29 the probing behavior became more "normal". Thank you.

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Legrand
MAX should be commented out.

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Gingerbreadman
Thanks for the quick feedback. I opened up my configuration.h file to follow your directions only to find the line already uncommented it reads as,
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS
The line above it reads exactly the same except it refers to the max endstops, if that matters.

Quote
Legrand
I had this same problem. Try uncommenting this line in your configuration.h settings: #define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

Quote
Gingerbreadman
Having problems when I run g29.
The head moves as though it is scanning the bed, in the x and y but steps up incrementally on the z until it hits the endstops at home. At that point I have to kill switch it or it will jam against the end stops.
I'm using repetier host v1.6.0, folgertech kossel rev b with the inductive probe, and the folgertech configuration rev.b file. I've set bed height and the z probe register correctly (lights up and shows in the log) . The g28 code works well, and the printer responded correctly when I ran a test calibration spiral print, though that was a sad print to say the least.
I'm sure I have wired or miscoded something since I am thrashing in the dark here and would like to preemptively apologize if the solution to this problem was offered earlier in this thread . My sad excuse for a 3d vocabulary hinders my search and comprehension of what little I have found and "understood"...thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2016 06:58PM by Gingerbreadman.

Quite a lot of good and helpful responses. Thanks to all of you here. This group has a good spirit.

I will continue to build my Kossel, for now ignoring the Z probe, because I want to get it functioning. And then probably, after test prints, create one of these Thingiverse items.

Printed my first print last night, a 20mm calibration cube. Turned out better than I expected, but my printer needs a lot of work soon. Using my calipers, I know the sides aren't 20mm, I know the Z is off by about 0.2mm, and I can't remember which axis is which but the X and Y are off by 0.18mm and 0.07mm. The layers also seem to be having issue, maybe it's speed, heat, or extruder that need to change. I'd love your guys help to finalize the calibration. I've attached photos of the cube from above, below, and sides. As the bottom of the cube did come off, so it's hard to actually tell how much the z axis is off by, but my rough estimate is the 0.2mm value. I'll reprint and after I modify the print settings to hopefully get better layer adhesion.

My phone can not take photos with a small enough size, so please accept my imgur links instead

Corner
Bottom (Sorry for not having a direct shot)
Side
Top

I would love some suggestions of things to change. If you guys need more information to help, just ask.

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Hi Tim,

Don't sweat it if you're off by 0.1mm or so. This can often be caused by plastic slumping, pressing the calipers too hard, extrusion miscalibration, and a host of other factors.

A good way to tell if you're well calibrated is to print something a lot bigger, like for instance a 100mm square with 1mm sides. Another way is to print something with multiple squares on it, and you measure the difference in position between the north faces of each square. Only then can you tell if your dimensions are well set up, without getting side tracked by other factors such as over extrusion.

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nebbian
Hi Tim,

Don't sweat it if you're off by 0.1mm or so. This can often be caused by plastic slumping, pressing the calipers too hard, extrusion miscalibration, and a host of other factors.

A good way to tell if you're well calibrated is to print something a lot bigger, like for instance a 100mm square with 1mm sides. Another way is to print something with multiple squares on it, and you measure the difference in position between the north faces of each square. Only then can you tell if your dimensions are well set up, without getting side tracked by other factors such as over extrusion.

Good suggestion, I'll keep that in mind. My big concern isn't the axis offsets, but rather the bad layers. As well as the solid infill on the top layer. I'm not sure how to adjust to fix those problems.

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

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Captain_Tim
Printed my first print last night, a 20mm calibration cube. Turned out better than I expected, but my printer needs a lot of work soon. Using my calipers, I know the sides aren't 20mm, I know the Z is off by about 0.2mm, and I can't remember which axis is which but the X and Y are off by 0.18mm and 0.07mm. The layers also seem to be having issue, maybe it's speed, heat, or extruder that need to change. I'd love your guys help to finalize the calibration. I've attached photos of the cube from above, below, and sides. As the bottom of the cube did come off, so it's hard to actually tell how much the z axis is off by, but my rough estimate is the 0.2mm value. I'll reprint and after I modify the print settings to hopefully get better layer adhesion.

My phone can not take photos with a small enough size, so please accept my imgur links instead

Corner
Bottom (Sorry for not having a direct shot)
Side
Top

I would love some suggestions of things to change. If you guys need more information to help, just ask.

That print looks a bit rough. Have you calibrated your extruder and/or your stepper drivers? If not I would suggest doing it now to save yourself a lot of frustration later.

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Captain_Tim
Printed my first print last night, a 20mm calibration cube. Turned out better than I expected, but my printer needs a lot of work soon. Using my calipers, I know the sides aren't 20mm, I know the Z is off by about 0.2mm, and I can't remember which axis is which but the X and Y are off by 0.18mm and 0.07mm. The layers also seem to be having issue, maybe it's speed, heat, or extruder that need to change. I'd love your guys help to finalize the calibration. I've attached photos of the cube from above, below, and sides. As the bottom of the cube did come off, so it's hard to actually tell how much the z axis is off by, but my rough estimate is the 0.2mm value. I'll reprint and after I modify the print settings to hopefully get better layer adhesion.

My phone can not take photos with a small enough size, so please accept my imgur links instead

Corner
Bottom (Sorry for not having a direct shot)
Side
Top

I would love some suggestions of things to change. If you guys need more information to help, just ask.

Hi,

as already suggested start with calibrating Extruder.
It could be you are printing to cold, and / or to fast, or you might have a nozzle that is partly clogged... just to give you some hints, where to start researching.

Don't try to calibrate your size with this print - it is useless. As soon as you have solved the layer-issue, all size-parameters might Change....

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2016 03:28AM by Sir_Death.

I have yet to calibrate my extruder. This would be a very wise decision to do so. I completely forgot to do this. I'm still happy that it even printed the cube, as I was expecting it to fail pretty hard first try.

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spiffcow
That print looks a bit rough. Have you calibrated your extruder and/or your stepper drivers? If not I would suggest doing it now to save yourself a lot of frustration later.

I'll keep your suggestions in mind as well, although I don't think it was to cold, as it was reading at 215C. I'll slow down the speed next time, and if calibrating the extruder and slowing it down doesn't help, then I'll take apart the hot end and clean that out.

Quote
Sir_Death
as already suggested start with calibrating Extruder.
It could be you are printing to cold, and / or to fast, or you might have a nozzle that is partly clogged... just to give you some hints, where to start researching.

Don't try to calibrate your size with this print - it is useless. As soon as you have solved the layer-issue, all size-parameters might Change....

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Quote
Captain_Tim
I have yet to calibrate my extruder. This would be a very wise decision to do so. I completely forgot to do this. I'm still happy that it even printed the cube, as I was expecting it to fail pretty hard first try.

No shame in being excited to see something print I'm serious about the steppers though. If you don't tune them, they *will* overheat and skip steps. Make sure all belts and pulleys are tight. Make sure the gear on the extruder is in full contact with the filament (it wasn't by default on mine). Make sure your endstops are as close to even as you can get them. Make sure the width of the carriages is the same as the width of the effector (this was a big problem for me, and I assume anyone who recently ordered from Folgertech). Then, when all of that is complete, start calibrating your software. I reccomend printing a new effector and placing your probe in the hot end slot, and just calibrate until the error is as low as you can possibly get. Then start printing calibration objects and make sure you perfect your retraction settings (and if you figure out some good ones, let me know...).

And then.. Well, then you can start printing parts for your own custom build with all the things you wish your Folgertech Kossel had

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spiffcow

Quote
Captain_Tim
I have yet to calibrate my extruder. This would be a very wise decision to do so. I completely forgot to do this. I'm still happy that it even printed the cube, as I was expecting it to fail pretty hard first try.

No shame in being excited to see something print I'm serious about the steppers though. If you don't tune them, they *will* overheat and skip steps. Make sure all belts and pulleys are tight. Make sure the gear on the extruder is in full contact with the filament (it wasn't by default on mine). Make sure your endstops are as close to even as you can get them. Make sure the width of the carriages is the same as the width of the effector (this was a big problem for me, and I assume anyone who recently ordered from Folgertech). Then, when all of that is complete, start calibrating your software. I reccomend printing a new effector and placing your probe in the hot end slot, and just calibrate until the error is as low as you can possibly get. Then start printing calibration objects and make sure you perfect your retraction settings (and if you figure out some good ones, let me know...).

And then.. Well, then you can start printing parts for your own custom build with all the things you wish your Folgertech Kossel had

Lots and lots of things to do. When you say calibrate my steppers, you mean to adjust the vRef? Last I checked they were where they should be. By belts are tight, by my standards, so there's a few things I can knock off that list already.

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

My extruder doesn't catch the filament very well, so that may be where my problem lies. Is there a way to tighten the extruder so more pressure is put on the bearing to push the filament against the gear so it will go in?

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

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Captain_Tim
My extruder doesn't catch the filament very well, so that may be where my problem lies. Is there a way to tighten the extruder so more pressure is put on the bearing to push the filament against the gear so it will go in?

On mine I had to disassemble the extruder, loosen the set screws, and move the gear further out. It's still a crappy choice of gears though, and tends to deform the filament

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spiffcow
On mine I had to disassemble the extruder, loosen the set screws, and move the gear further out. It's still a crappy choice of gears though, and tends to deform the filament

I'll try that. Is there a different gear that I can buy that you guys recommend to replace the current gear?

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

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Captain_Tim

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spiffcow
On mine I had to disassemble the extruder, loosen the set screws, and move the gear further out. It's still a crappy choice of gears though, and tends to deform the filament

I'll try that. Is there a different gear that I can buy that you guys recommend to replace the current gear?

Not at present -- I'm still using the one that came with it. Most extruders seem to use an indented gear for the filament though.

This is one of my prints when I set the extrusion width too low...

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There's No Place Like 127.0.0.1

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EvilBetty
This is one of my prints when I set the extrusion width too low...

IMG_20160203_112638.jpg

That looks very close to what I'm getting. What is your extrusion width?

Is the hotend a 0.4mm hotend? I'm guessing it is, as it's one of the most common for kits

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula