Yeah. As I figured. This is the guy I got the voltage regulaors from. 20 of them came in a padded envelope for $3.50 and I had them in a couple of days.
AMS1117 on e-bay

Quote
Captain_Tim
So I swapped my Arduino Mega out, and the LCD displayed squares. I thought it was a contrast issue, tried turning the contrast pot on the back of the LCD, blew the voltage regulator on the arduino... back to the old one for now. I'll just leave my raspberry pi plugged into it for now I suppose.

Thanks for the link, but that seller doesn't sell to Canada. I'll find a seller for here though, thank you very much kind sir.

Quote
Legrand
Yeah. As I figured. This is the guy I got the voltage regulaors from. 20 of them came in a padded envelope for $3.50 and I had them in a couple of days.
AMS1117 on e-bay

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
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Folger Kossel 2020
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Tevo Tarantula

I think that at some point between last night and this morning, my Arduino got shorted. Worked fine last night, nothing this morning. No red flashing lights or anything. All I did was move it, and put on some feet dampeners. While I was putting the new feet on, the filament roll feel off from the top, but that shouldn't have done anything to the electronics while it was off, could it?

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
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Folger Kossel 2020
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Tevo Tarantula

I highly doubt that the filament falling off would cause a problem. Check the wires to make sure that all the screws are tight, both on your board and on the power supply. It's been my experience that they loosen up over time. Check your power supply and see if it's still working (should be a green light on it as well.) Make sure it's still plugged in

Quote
Captain_Tim
I think that at some point between last night and this morning, my Arduino got shorted. Worked fine last night, nothing this morning. No red flashing lights or anything. All I did was move it, and put on some feet dampeners. While I was putting the new feet on, the filament roll feel off from the top, but that shouldn't have done anything to the electronics while it was off, could it?

Got the frame built over the weekend. This is probably obvious to a lot of you, but i'd figure I'd share how I trued everything up for those who haven't built a delta printer before (like me.)

When I got the kit I noticed that a few of the short 2020 pieces were a bit longer than the others. I measured 3 of them to ensure that they were the same size, then used that as my reference. Once those were attached to the corners, I filed down one of the longer pieces so it would fit the upper motor mount corners on one side, while the other ones fit perfectly.

Then, I temporarily inserted the vertical 2020 pieces into the bottom corners, and slid the top corners all the way down until they hit the bottoms. i ensured the top and bottom corners lined up, then followed the same technique as above, filing the longer pieces to fit.

Everything now lines up really nicely. I don't think the extra mm or 2 would have thrown anything off all that much, but I figured it was worth the extra work.

It would seem that the LCD screen was some how stopping it from connecting. Perhaps the LCD got a short or something, but upon slowly wiring everything back up, I realized that it would turn on and connect via usb as long as the LCD wasn't plugged in.

Quote
Legrand
I highly doubt that the filament falling off would cause a problem. Check the wires to make sure that all the screws are tight, both on your board and on the power supply. It's been my experience that they loosen up over time. Check your power supply and see if it's still working (should be a green light on it as well.) Make sure it's still plugged in

Quote
Captain_Tim
I think that at some point between last night and this morning, my Arduino got shorted. Worked fine last night, nothing this morning. No red flashing lights or anything. All I did was move it, and put on some feet dampeners. While I was putting the new feet on, the filament roll feel off from the top, but that shouldn't have done anything to the electronics while it was off, could it?

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
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Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Hello!

I've got a Rev B kit mechanically assembled, and the wiring done, but possibly not correct. As several people have noted, the wiring instructions are not complete or necessarily coherent. I've compiled and uploaded paul_delta's Repetier firmware using Arduino 1.6.5.

I am not sure that I have the thermistors or Z probe connected to the board in the right places or oriented correctly.

Z Probe:
The Z probe always reads high when I send M119. When I set the Z probe close to the bed and cause the probe to trigger by hand (LED lights up), it doesn't read low. I've reversed Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH, and got similar results, where the Z probe would trigger, but M119 always reads low. This leads me to believe that I don't have it connected correctly. I have the brown wire connected to 12V positive on the power supply, blue to the power supply ground, and black connected to the RAMPS board with the 10K resistor crossing between black and red leads on the three wire connector, and the 15K in line with both.

Thermistors:
I have the heated bed thermistor connected to T2, and the hot end thermistor connected to T1. Polarity doesn't seem to matter for the thermistors. In the photos on the google drive, it looks like the hot end thermistor is set up with a three wire connector and is connected to T0 and one pin of T1, and the bed thermistor is connected to the other pin of T1 and T2. When I do M105, I get two readings at -50 degrees, which indicates a read error. What am I missing? (Aside from the requisite brain cells to adequately understand the photos and wiring diagrams...)

Advice would be greatly appreciated.

Can you take pictures of your probe wiring? Where it's connected to the board and power supply, as well as the resistors. When it comes to the thermistors, they both only occupy 2 pins. Hotend is the T0, and heated bed is the T1 pins.

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
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Folger Kossel 2020
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Tevo Tarantula

Thanks!

I definitely have the thermistors in the wrong slots, then.

I can't take pictures of the resistors, because they're in heat shrink because I thought that wrapping them in tape would be messy... I'll get photos of the other stuff when I get home.

Hopefully I haven't done anything that requires a lot of rework.

You most likely didn't do anything that'd require extra work. For my resistors, I didn't have big enough heat shrink at the time, so it got a good dose of hot glue instead.

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
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Folger Kossel 2020
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Repetier Host error message:
Error: Temperature heated bed switched off. MAXTEMP triggered!!

reporting also: Extruder 130.3 deg C/Off Bed: 137.1 deg C/Off

I pulled the thermistor connectors from the pin strip on the board. I
can measure the 100K Ohm thermistors from the connector end. I
used a free pin strip I had on my bench to connect and measure. I
did this to make sure the contacts were good. They seem fine
mechanically too.

On the pin strip I can measure three pairs of pins labelled T0, T1
and T2. These pairs all measure one pin to negative supply and one
pin pulled up to the positive supply with 4.7K Ohms.
When I plug the thermistors back into the pin strip they seem to
engage firmly and go down all the way. I am using T0 and T1.

I tried unplugging the LCD panel, but get the same error message
when I try to connect Reptier Host

btw, all three end stops light up when actuated.

I do not know what to do now. Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated

Test your thermistor with multimeter for different temperatures. The "standard" 100k thermistor resistance will change if you will warm it in your hand - from around 100k Ohm to 60k Ohm (25C to 36C).

Quote
fredw
Repetier Host error message:
Error: Temperature heated bed switched off. MAXTEMP triggered!!

reporting also: Extruder 130.3 deg C/Off Bed: 137.1 deg C/Off

I pulled the thermistor connectors from the pin strip on the board. I
can measure the 100K Ohm thermistors from the connector end. I
used a free pin strip I had on my bench to connect and measure. I
did this to make sure the contacts were good. They seem fine
mechanically too.

---

My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

They both show change when heated. I used a temperature controlled heat gun and quickly got each of them to 80K Ohms. I watched the resistance climb as they cooled down.

I said to check it for 36C in your hand not just for fun - if thermistor resistance is not around 60 kOhm when heated to 36C - it is not NTC 100k compatible and thermistor model and/or temperature table need adjustment.

Quote
fredw
They both show change when heated. I used a temperature controlled heat gun and quickly got each of them to 80K Ohms. I watched the resistance climb as they cooled down.

---

My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

I did not use my hands for a reason, but I found my problem. The ramps board and the main board were not completely pressed together. I took care of that and now Repetier Host connects. Thank you for your help. It allowed me to focus in on what was wrong. Thank you.

Quote
Captain_Tim
You most likely didn't do anything that'd require extra work. For my resistors, I didn't have big enough heat shrink at the time, so it got a good dose of hot glue instead.

Hopefully...

So, some pictures:


The Z probe is in the block with the end stops, second furthest from the USB and power connections on the RAMPS shield.


The wires as attached to the power supply. The blue wire from the probe is connected to the ground, along with the ground from the power cord. (That doesn't seem right... ) The brown wire is connected to +12V with the positive lead to the fan.


The other side of the block of jumpers where the probes are plugged in. This might give a better view of the plug.


The resistors all soldered up and in shrink tubing. I don't think this will be that enlightening, except perhaps that the red and the black leads from the three wire cable which are connected to the resistors both connect to the black lead from the Z probe and no other wires.

Thanks!

Edit: I've moved the thermistor connections to T0 and T1, where they should be, per your advice here.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2016 09:43PM by UncleSas.

You should be plugging the probe into the +12V and the -12V on the PSU, not the ground from the power cord. Not sure if that makes a difference though. That's how I have it. The probe is hooked up in the correct spot. Try moving that GND connection to the -12V on the PSU and see if that solves your issue.

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
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Folger Kossel 2020
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Tevo Tarantula

Quote
Captain_Tim
You should be plugging the probe into the +12V and the -12V on the PSU, not the ground from the power cord. Not sure if that makes a difference though. That's how I have it. The probe is hooked up in the correct spot. Try moving that GND connection to the -12V on the PSU and see if that solves your issue.

No joy from the Z probe. It's still always reporting high.

Perhaps this is a firmware settings problem. I'm using Paul_Delta's firmware, but recall that he is using a mechanical Z probe, rather than the inductive one that ships with the Rev B. I also recall that there was some discussion about there being some pre-calibration changes to his Configuration.h in this thread related to using Paul_Delta's firmware on a stock Rev B, but my search-fu seems to be weak. If that was discussed here, I'll go RTFT more carefully to see if I can find it...

Otherwise, the thermistors are reporting properly now.

Thanks for your advice, Captain.

No problem. The Z-probe still reports high if it is touching the aluminum? It's always High? If it's always High, then something must be wrong with the wiring.

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
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Folger Kossel 2020
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I use regular blue-tip inductive probe that comes with Rev.B kit. Check your wiring and resistors or try to connect it directly to RAMPS as discussed in this thread.

Quote
UncleSas
I'm using Paul_Delta's firmware, but recall that he is using a mechanical Z probe, rather than the inductive one that ships with the Rev B. I also recall that there was some discussion about there being some pre-calibration changes to his Configuration.h in this thread related to using Paul_Delta's firmware on a stock Rev B, but my search-fu seems to be weak. If that was discussed here, I'll go RTFT more carefully to see if I can find it...

Otherwise, the thermistors are reporting properly now.

Thanks for your advice, Captain.

---

My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Quote
Captain_Tim
No problem. The Z-probe still reports high if it is touching the aluminum? It's always High? If it's always High, then something must be wrong with the wiring.

It's always high when I do M119. LED comes on at Z000.89, goes off at Z000.90, but M119 returns don't change.

Quote
paul_delta
I use regular blue-tip inductive probe that comes with Rev.B kit. Check your wiring and resistors or try to connect it directly to RAMPS as discussed in this thread.

Hmmm. 106 pages of thread read before building. I sit corrected. Time to look for the instructions for connecting directly to the RAMPS board.

Did you go to a magnetically attached mechanical Z probe on an earlier version of this printer, or was that someone else?

Thanks.

Your probe works but looks like RAMPS gets wrong signal level. I guess something wrong with your voltage divider (resistors).

Quote
UncleSas

Quote
Captain_Tim
No problem. The Z-probe still reports high if it is touching the aluminum? It's always High? If it's always High, then something must be wrong with the wiring.

It's always high when I do M119. LED comes on at Z000.89, goes off at Z000.90, but M119 returns don't change.

Quote
paul_delta
I use regular blue-tip inductive probe that comes with Rev.B kit. Check your wiring and resistors or try to connect it directly to RAMPS as discussed in this thread.

Hmmm. 106 pages of thread read before building. I sit corrected. Time to look for the instructions for connecting directly to the RAMPS board.

Did you go to a magnetically attached mechanical Z probe on an earlier version of this printer, or was that someone else?

Thanks.

---

My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Quote
UncleSas
Did you go to a magnetically attached mechanical Z probe on an earlier version of this printer, or was that someone else?

I use my own magnetically attached probe holder with adapter that allows to use inductive probe on any surface (see my Thingiverse link).

PS: try to attach the probe directly to endstop connector (+5V to brown, - to blue, and black to S).

---

My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Thanks paul_delta and Captain_Tim.

The problem with my Z probe was that the 3 wire connector I got with the kit has the black and red wires reversed from the photos on Google Drive.

I turned the connector around and hung the white wire hole out over nothing and the probe reads correctly now.

Glad you fixed the issue. I cut the white wire off, effectively making it a 2 pin connector, with 1 void connection. A suggestion for when you begin to level and calibrate your printer. Due it manually first, and do that a few times. Then Use the probe. Better yet, print out Paul's probe holder. It makes the probe quite more accurate, as it's directly under the nozzle and helps dissipate the effects of effector tilt.

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Btw, you really can just run the 3 wires to a 3 pin connector and run the probe at 5V. It works fine, I've done it on 2 printers now. You might lose a little height on it, but at 4mm max measurement, you're not putting glass over it anyway.

Thanks to all of the help and the other posters here on this forum I was able to get my printer built and running. It was homing and auto leveling just fine. It was also making the motions of printing a test cube, but I had not screwed the nozzle into the heater block very well. This resulted in a plugged nozzle. I did not discover this until I took the thing apart. Oh, well, I needed to replace one of the rods anyway so all is well. I wanted to say how much I appreciate this device being available to purchase. It is quite amazing to watch it work. Thanks again.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/15/2016 06:20PM by fredw.

Looks like my hotend thermistor is bad... And I probably broke it when I assembled the carriage...

I was talking to a local acquaintance (with a lot of experience) about setup and such and he said that I should probably keep hot end heater cartridge and thermistor spares on hand, because they get broken during regular maintenance and often during an initial build. (Imagine that...)

So, right off the bat, I'm thinking of switching to this:
[www.amazon.com]

Has anyone used one of those? If so, do you recommend the product?

Thanks,
-S

I have not used it but it does not appear to be a drop in replacement for the existing thermistor. You'll have to drill & tap the opening larger for the screw in mount, that is assuming there is enough room to do that.

You can also get the same thing from Banggood for a couple bucks (assuming you can wait a couple of weeks for them to come from China).

Banggood

Quote
UncleSas
Looks like my hotend thermistor is bad... And I probably broke it when I assembled the carriage...

I was talking to a local acquaintance (with a lot of experience) about setup and such and he said that I should probably keep hot end heater cartridge and thermistor spares on hand, because they get broken during regular maintenance and often during an initial build. (Imagine that...)

So, right off the bat, I'm thinking of switching to this:
[www.amazon.com]

Has anyone used one of those? If so, do you recommend the product?

Thanks,
-S

Quote
Legrand
I have not used it but it does not appear to be a drop in replacement for the existing thermistor. You'll have to drill & tap the opening larger for the screw in mount, that is assuming there is enough room to do that.

You can also get the same thing from Banggood for a couple bucks (assuming you can wait a couple of weeks for them to come from China).

Banggood

I'm still doing the initial build, so I'm not willing to wait. Drill and tap will be fairly painless, as I'm otherwise set up to do that. I think there may already be a hole on the heater block that will do.

-S