Has anyone tried MatterControl with this printer?

I've been using Repetier Host Mac, but it's a few years old, and I'd like to be using newer host software.

Cura might be an option, but my first experiences weren't positive. Slic3r, Repetier-Firmware 0.92.9, and Repetier-Host are mostly playing well together, but the Mac host is something like 4 years old if the github timestamps are accurate.

Alternately, I'm considering an OctoPi...

I have been stuck on setting up the inductive sensor. I have blue to power supply -, brown to power supply +, on the black signal wire I have a 15k ohm resistor inline from black signal wire from the sensor sensor with a 10k ohm resistor T in after the 15k on it's way back to my board. When I measure the signal wire I have 12 volts with the light on the sensor off an 0 with it on. I have the MKS GEN 1.4 (combo adrunio and ramps board). No matter what my z-min says open. If I hook up a mechanical endstop it will work properly showing when it's tripped or open. I've taken the resistor wraps off so many times I broke them. I purchased new 10k and 15k resistors but these are 1/2 watt 5% (much larger then the little blue ones I had and they are brown).

I have tried the endstop logic and the define pullups in the config.h but nothing worked

I also picked up a 2n3904 transistor, a NTE960 VR ( VIN 35V max-Vo5v), I also have T IP 120 NPN ST and diodes. I am almost to the point of printing out an arm with my I3 to hold the mechanical endstop switch to the effector and try to set it up that way. I have a ramps board here but the X-axis is fried in it but when I hook up to the ramps board with my inductive sensor it works. I have seen rumors of pull up resistors on the MKS gen 1.4 that will not allow the probe to work but it's the only board I have right now. With all these partrs I should be able to get something going.

If some one can help please pm me!!


Copy of my config.h: [paste.ubuntu.com]

following these directions [www.instructables.com] I now have 3.25 with light offf and 0.0 when light is on. I have pluged the signal wire into the bottom plug of the z-min which is where the green wire would be on a mechanical endstop.

And here is a pinout of the MKS gen 1.4 board I am using.
[reprap.org]

I have tried hooking the blue wire from the sensor (with the resistor) to the power supply and also to the center pin of the end stop. Same results. For now I am assuming that the 3.25 volts I am seeing is to low to trip the endstop switch in the board. I assume I made some mistake with my original resistors in the first place and now these large 5% resistors are dropping it to low. I will try to figure out a way to get the voltage up a little higher/closer to 5 volts and try again tomorrow.

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2016 09:00PM by jasonsaffle13@gmail.com.

Docpayce has a mechanical endstop holder on Thingiverse designed to fit the extra board that came with the kit. I just printed it out to see if it solves the remaining issues I have. I did the Escher3D calibration twice but still am seeing some "bed tilt" (the bed is actually level as far as I can tell, I think it's an endstop issue.)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2016 08:21PM by sharkicicles.

Quote
[email protected]
I have been stuck on setting up the inductive sensor. I have blue to power supply -, brown to power supply +, on the black signal wire I have a 15k ohm resistor inline from black signal wire from the sensor sensor with a 10k ohm resistor T in after the 15k on it's way back to my board. When I measure the signal wire I have 12 volts with the light on the sensor off an 0 with it on.[...]

following these directions [www.instructables.com] I now have 3.25 with light offf and 0.0 when light is on. I have pluged the signal wire into the bottom plug of the z-min which is where the green wire would be on a mechanical endstop.

I have tried hooking the blue wire from the sensor (with the resistor) to the power supply and also to the center pin of the end stop. Same results. For now I am assuming that the 3.25 volts I am seeing is to low to trip the endstop switch in the board. I assume I made some mistake with my original resistors in the first place and now these large 5% resistors are dropping it to low. I will try to figure out a way to get the voltage up a little higher/closer to 5 volts and try again tomorrow.

It's a bit difficult to understand how you've actually wired it, but it should be like the pic I posted a couple of pages ago on this thread, i.e: [forums.reprap.org]

That Instructables page you linked-to shows a 20K+10K resistor dropper instead of a 15K+10K. If you followed that page, your output voltage would indeed be too low.

I used a 15k and 10k resistors. Power supply putting out 11.25 will adjusted it tomorrow and use the odds and ends to try to get to 5 volts. So 3.25 may be to low to trip endstop.

Well with using two 10k ohms resistors i was able to get 7.25 volts. The probe is now tripping the end stop.

When i go to set my z probe offset i get 30 in the y but I also get 15 in the x. The directions show only moving the Y to get the probe to line up with the X on the painters tape. I checked my x-y-z- tower order and they seem correct. Is this normal?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2016 10:16AM by jasonsaffle13@gmail.com.

docpayce and paul_delta, thanks a lot for the zero-offset sensor. I printed docpayce's sensor holder once I got the printer dialed in enough, and now the first layers are flawless, whereas before the printer had a "bed tilt" of a few tenths of a mm, causing the first layer to smoosh into the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/06/2016 12:57AM by sharkicicles.

I was just looking at the "Has any one built the Micromake printer?" thread (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,545625) and decided to look at it on the Aliexpress selling page.

I noticed a very novel idea in the way the Micromake effector is designed, where the effector plate is made as a kind of "A" shape with the top of the hot end raised much higher than the pivot points of the arms. That would seem to me that it would reduce the effects (amplitude) of tilt and backlash considerably on the movement of the nozzle tip.

I would think we/one/you could design and print a replacement effector for the FolgerTech unit to mount the hot end the same way - with the added advantage of greater Z-height.

Thinking more, maybe just align the pivot points nearer the vertical center of the hotend to reduce angular momentum (given you can fit space for fans).

Thoughts? Negatives?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/06/2016 06:39PM by meq123.

The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these [e3d-online.com] thoughts?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/07/2016 10:40AM by XYrZbest.

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XYrZbest
The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these [e3d-online.com] thoughts?

How is it clogging? I think you should check your extrusion motor to make sure it's spitting out how much it's supposed to and not trying to over-extrude causing the binding. When you tell it to extrude 50mm is it actually coiling out 50mm? Also, check your temperature. Is the hot end truly at the temperature it's supposed to be? If it's not melting enough of the filament quickly enough, it'll bind as well.

Quote
meq123
I was just looking at the "Has any one built the Micromake printer?" thread (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,545625) and decided to look at it on the Aliexpress selling page.

I noticed a very novel idea in the way the Micromake effector is designed, where the effector plate is made as a kind of "A" shape with the top of the hot end raised much higher than the pivot points of the arms. That would seem to me that it would reduce the effects (amplitude) of tilt and backlash considerably on the movement of the nozzle tip.

I would think we/one/you could design and print a replacement effector for the FolgerTech unit to mount the hot end the same way - with the added advantage of greater Z-height.

Thinking more, maybe just align the pivot points nearer the vertical center of the hotend to reduce angular momentum (given you can fit space for fans).

Thoughts? Negatives?

HTB18_3VJVXXXXadXFXXq6xXFXXXe.jpg

It's not novel.. Similar designs have been around for years. The biggest downside is that it's a PITA to size it for your hotend. It might also be a bit difficult to get a perfect angle on it, since you'll have to make sure the hot end mount is parallel to the bottom of the effector.

If you are just looking for better quality, there's a ton of mods that will be more beneficial to you.. But I'd imagine it'd help out a bit.

Quote
XYrZbest
The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these [e3d-online.com] thoughts?

Same problem here. I am looking into getting a hot end with a sleeve to see if it will work any better (at all I should say). I have verified my temperature, checked my extruder feed and have yet to be able to print. On one jam I let the hot end get to hot and melted the holder for the sensor/hot end (reprinted it on my Prusa I-3). So my next step in grabbing an aluminum effector and a better hot end.

Quote
[email protected]

Quote
XYrZbest
The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these [e3d-online.com] thoughts?

Same problem here. I am looking into getting a hot end with a sleeve to see if it will work any better (at all I should say). I have verified my temperature, checked my extruder feed and have yet to be able to print. On one jam I let the hot end get to hot and melted the holder for the sensor/hot end (reprinted it on my Prusa I-3). So my next step in grabbing an aluminum effector and a better hot end.

Hah! This is EXACTLY what happened to me. So I got a clone v6 'all metal' hot-end instead of the clone v5 that the FolgerTech came with. Same problem. I cannot print PLA without it jamming up immediately and I cannot tell why.

Now I had started with PLA because I read it's supposed to be the best for beginners. But having such problems, I decided to try a reel of ABS. Result? Success! I can print all day and every time with ABS. Went back to try PLA - instant jam.

Agggh.I just can't fathom it.

Quote
meq123

Quote
[email protected]

Quote
XYrZbest
The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these [e3d-online.com] thoughts?

Same problem here. I am looking into getting a hot end with a sleeve to see if it will work any better (at all I should say). I have verified my temperature, checked my extruder feed and have yet to be able to print. On one jam I let the hot end get to hot and melted the holder for the sensor/hot end (reprinted it on my Prusa I-3). So my next step in grabbing an aluminum effector and a better hot end.

Hah! This is EXACTLY what happened to me. So I got a clone v6 'all metal' hot-end instead of the clone v5 that the FolgerTech came with. Same problem. I cannot print PLA without it jamming up immediately and I cannot tell why.

Now I had started with PLA because I read it's supposed to be the best for beginners. But having such problems, I decided to try a reel of ABS. Result? Success! I can print all day and every time with ABS. Went back to try PLA - instant jam.

Agggh.I just can't fathom it.

I switched over to ABS and jammed. I have a new hot end coming with a PTFE sleave (along with an aluminum effector plate) and will try that. With my Direct feed wanhoa I3 prusa I can switch back and forth from PLA and ABS. Sometimes the filament change is a little rough ( I love my all metal hot end from micro swiss) the only odd thing the ABS needs(in addition to unplugging the print fan to prevent warping) a smaller gap for the first layer then the PLA but they both print just fine on it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/08/2016 10:35PM by jasonsaffle13@gmail.com.

Quote
meq123

Quote
[email protected]

Quote
XYrZbest
The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these [e3d-online.com] thoughts?

Same problem here. I am looking into getting a hot end with a sleeve to see if it will work any better (at all I should say). I have verified my temperature, checked my extruder feed and have yet to be able to print. On one jam I let the hot end get to hot and melted the holder for the sensor/hot end (reprinted it on my Prusa I-3). So my next step in grabbing an aluminum effector and a better hot end.

Hah! This is EXACTLY what happened to me. So I got a clone v6 'all metal' hot-end instead of the clone v5 that the FolgerTech came with. Same problem. I cannot print PLA without it jamming up immediately and I cannot tell why.

Now I had started with PLA because I read it's supposed to be the best for beginners. But having such problems, I decided to try a reel of ABS. Result? Success! I can print all day and every time with ABS. Went back to try PLA - instant jam.

Agggh.I just can't fathom it.

I just got my new Kossel Rev B working and it jammed a couple of times. Both times I removed the bowden tube from the upper side of the effector and was unable to either push the filament in or pull it out. I stopped the fan so that the body of the print head heated up enough to soften the filament enough so that I could pull it out. It appears to me that there is a larger volume space inside of the extruder near the zone where the filament melts. Both times that i had a jam was when I was attempting to print with a poor calibration and the print head was snug against the bed, so no filament was able to exit the print head. This caused a glob to evolve in the space inside the print head. Since I've made sure that the first layer has plenty of space, I haven't had a problem. Also, I'm printing at 210°.

Deleted. Double post.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2016 01:31AM by iknownothing.

Sorry again.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2016 01:32AM by iknownothing.

Quote
thosmos

Quote
meq123

Quote
[email protected]

Quote
XYrZbest
The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these [e3d-online.com] thoughts?

Same problem here. I am looking into getting a hot end with a sleeve to see if it will work any better (at all I should say). I have verified my temperature, checked my extruder feed and have yet to be able to print. On one jam I let the hot end get to hot and melted the holder for the sensor/hot end (reprinted it on my Prusa I-3). So my next step in grabbing an aluminum effector and a better hot end.

Hah! This is EXACTLY what happened to me. So I got a clone v6 'all metal' hot-end instead of the clone v5 that the FolgerTech came with. Same problem. I cannot print PLA without it jamming up immediately and I cannot tell why.

Now I had started with PLA because I read it's supposed to be the best for beginners. But having such problems, I decided to try a reel of ABS. Result? Success! I can print all day and every time with ABS. Went back to try PLA - instant jam.

Agggh.I just can't fathom it.

I just got my new Kossel Rev B working and it jammed a couple of times. Both times I removed the bowden tube from the upper side of the effector and was unable to either push the filament in or pull it out. I stopped the fan so that the body of the print head heated up enough to soften the filament enough so that I could pull it out. It appears to me that there is a larger volume space inside of the extruder near the zone where the filament melts. Both times that i had a jam was when I was attempting to print with a poor calibration and the print head was snug against the bed, so no filament was able to exit the print head. This caused a glob to evolve in the space inside the print head. Since I've made sure that the first layer has plenty of space, I haven't had a problem. Also, I'm printing at 210°.

Same issue here. Have been struggling for a two weeks trying to figure out what's been happening. I've been doing the same thing, taking apart the extruder to get to the jam. I even tried letting the heater block hang without the heat sink at 240°, but I still couldn't get it cleared. I ended up having to take apart the nozzle, heater block and M6 collar and using a torch on the nozzle and collar to clear the filament. I also assembled those parts when the heater block is at 240° to reduce the possibility that those pieces would loosen due to heat expansion of the heater block ( this already happened to me during a first print ). I've just been trying PLA with a temp of 190°. Extruder is jammed as I type this and dread having to take it all apart again. I think the issue is heat creep, but don't know how to resolve it. I printed this: [www.thingiverse.com] (at 110% scale my newly acquired Monoprice Mini), to see if would help, but I still got a jam! I may try ABS to see if that makes a difference ( like meq123 ). Odd that since ABS requires higher temps and thosmos has been successful with 240° temps ....

Quote
Careless
So what is the general consensus on this Folger Tech 2020 Kit in its newest iteration with all the cool ALU parts?

Does it remain as one of the better Kossel un-assembled pre-packaged kits that comes with (almost) everything required?

I am thinking of purchasing. Definitely want a Kossel, and this one looks reasonably priced considering shipping and base price.

Lets remove past printing and tool-handling experience from the equation- is it a good buy, or good bye?

It's my first printer and I think it's generally a good kit. It's worth a lot to have everything provided for a first-timer like I am. Now that I've built it and learned more, I would instead build one from scratch if I were to do it again.

I think its biggest downsides are:

1. incorrect default configuration settings in their firmware - especially INVERT_X_DIR, INVERT_Y_DIR, INVERT_Z_DIR set to true which caused my printhead to slam and scrape across the printbed on first powerup as it tried to home for the first time.
2. incorrect details in the assembly manual - thermistors needed to plug into different spots on RAMPS board than specified in manual; told to cut bowden tube in half, but then it would have been too short
3. insufficient screws of specific sizes - I needed to make a few parts runs to the hardware store to get specific sizes
4. printed parts with lock nut holders failed to keep nuts from spinning - needed to use regular nuts since there's no room in the printed part to hold lock nut with needle nose pliers

But even with those issues, I'm glad I got it. It's a solid kit and great starting point for upgrading as one learns more. Also the fact that quite a few other people have them means there's more community to communicate with about issues and upgrades (for example, this guy's Youtube videos helped me discover the INVERT_X_DIR issue: [youtu.be], and this guy's assembly video would have helped me if I'd seen it before: [youtu.be])

Thomas

Quote
thosmos
I think its biggest downsides are:

1. incorrect default configuration settings in their firmware - especially INVERT_X_DIR, INVERT_Y_DIR, INVERT_Z_DIR set to true which caused my printhead to slam and scrape across the printbed on first powerup as it tried to home for the first time.
2. incorrect details in the assembly manual - thermistors needed to plug into different spots on RAMPS board than specified in manual; told to cut bowden tube in half, but then it would have been too short
3. insufficient screws of specific sizes - I needed to make a few parts runs to the hardware store to get specific sizes
4. printed parts with lock nut holders failed to keep nuts from spinning - needed to use regular nuts since there's no room in the printed part to hold lock nut with needle nose pliers

Thomas

I would agree with the first two items, but not that last two. I had all the screws (and more) of the sizes I needed. Maybe there's variation in what they supply?
And I certainly had no issues with spinning nuts. All the printed parts worked very well for me.

I do have to say though that the auto calibration was useless (as other, more experienced, folks have said here). I've just taken it off and learnt how to calibrate manually. It really doesn't take long once you work out how, and stays stable after that. I also moved to Repetier firmware to be able to set EEPROM values without re-compiling firmware each time. Apparently the later versions of Marlin let you do that too, but not the (old) version they point you at from FolgerTech's site.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2016 10:01PM by meq123.

Quote
meq123

Quote
thosmos
I think its biggest downsides are:

1. incorrect default configuration settings in their firmware - especially INVERT_X_DIR, INVERT_Y_DIR, INVERT_Z_DIR set to true which caused my printhead to slam and scrape across the printbed on first powerup as it tried to home for the first time.
2. incorrect details in the assembly manual - thermistors needed to plug into different spots on RAMPS board than specified in manual; told to cut bowden tube in half, but then it would have been too short
3. insufficient screws of specific sizes - I needed to make a few parts runs to the hardware store to get specific sizes
4. printed parts with lock nut holders failed to keep nuts from spinning - needed to use regular nuts since there's no room in the printed part to hold lock nut with needle nose pliers

Thomas

I would agree with the first two items, but not that last two. I had all the screws (and more) of the sizes I needed. Maybe there's variation in what they supply?
And I certainly had no issues with spinning nuts. All the printed parts worked very well for me.

I do have to say though that the auto calibration was useless (as other, more experienced, folks have said here). I've just taken it off and learnt how to calibrate manually. It really doesn't take long once you work out how, and stays stable after that. I also moved to Repetier firmware to be able to set EEPROM values without re-compiling firmware each time. Apparently the later versions of Marlin let you do that too, but not the (old) version they point you at from FolgerTech's site.

I have to agree with thosmos. I had all four issues and more. Instead of spending more $, I contacted Folger Tech support and they sent me the missing screws but I did have to wait an whole week. Dustin Corbin created some videos on Youtube which explained a lot. Folger Tech should really update their manuals! My auto calibration actually appears to work, but I did slow down the movement so it's more accurate: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {40*60, 40*60, 40*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min) changed from 80 to 40 in configuration.h

It was nice that they provided an extra carbon rod and ends as I made a mistake or two and glad I had the spares. The did provide extras of many parts. I will say that if I had followed the directions for the bowden tube, it would have been short, but I fortunately waited on that step. I just need to resolve the jamming problem described just a few comments above.

Oh man, I've been away for too long... so much to write now...

@sharkicicles: Thank you very much! Much appreciated!!! And just as a trailer: I am working on a FULL zero offset probe. Zero x, y *and z*. First results are very promising and a LOT better compared to z-offset 30 mm (because of the tilting).

@meq123: Yeah, that design was around for quite some time. There wouldn't be any benefit when it comes to backlash, BUT it would resolve tilt-related issues very, very nicely. Also +50 mm or so build height. I was thinking about designing something like that (for E3D V6), but can't find the time right now. Another problem would be proper cooling of the print. The fan(s) would have to be mounted on top of the effector, with air channels going directly through the plate. btw: The upper part being not perfectly parallel to the lower part of the effector wouldn't result in problems: As long as thats a fixed angle, everything should still be very fine.

Clogging:
I switched to the E3D V6 and don't look back. You need proper cooling for this hot end, but if you got that, it's a charm.
Good video for keeping the V5 clone: click That made my V5 clone clog-free without worries.
Also, A) check your retract: Shouldn't exceed ~ 5 mm if possible. Be sure to have a good thermal bond between the screw and the cold end (thermal paste or similar). Clogging is often caused be an undefined, long warm zone inside the cold end with to much guey plastic.

thosmos: Exactly the same problems I had in December 2015. (^^)

Cheers!

Has anyone replaced the wheels on the carriages?

Mine wobble a lot (~1mm deflection in the carriage) because the bearings are sloppy, and I think that's where most of the ringing I'm getting is coming from.

If you have replaced them, what did you use? I'm thinking about the Open Builds V Wheels, but don't know if any of their offerings will work with the regular 2020. There are also these other ones that certainly will, but I want them with a 5mm ID, and they're a bit pricy. In both cases, I'd buy just the tires, and source my own bearings assuming just the tires are available.

I recently replaced the "shower door rollers" that came with my Rev B kit from January with Extreme Solid V Wheels, hoping that it would rectify the ringing patterns that I had on all prints. This upgrade, which firmed up the slop in the carriages, only intensified the ringing patterns. I also upgraded to magnetic joints and this further intensified the ringing patterns on all prints. (Some of these moire patterns are actually quite lovely!)

The source of these lovely ringing patterns on my printer was ultimately traced to the original stepper motors. The ringing patterns completely disappeared after I upgraded to .9 stepper motors (I am running the Duet 0.8.5 controller) with astrosysn dampers.My printer is now nearly silent and vibration free and its prints are as smooth as can be. I had to knock the maximum speed setting in half as I am still on 12V and will need to upgrade the heat bed, fans, and hot end to 24V in order to run at full speed with the .9 steppers. I was happy to sacrifice speed for this major quality upgrade, and I am very now happy with this printer, finally.

Quote
UncleSas
Has anyone replaced the wheels on the carriages?

Mine wobble a lot (~1mm deflection in the carriage) because the bearings are sloppy, and I think that's where most of the ringing I'm getting is coming from.

Again, I don't have any noticeable wobble in mine. Are you sure that the center screws are tight on the wheels and that the carriage clamps are also well tightened? My carriages were a bit loose until I squeezed those suckers tight against the extrusions

I do have vertical bar patterns on the sides of my prints, though. Is this what you mean by ringing patterns? With mine I see they align with where the infill 'squares' touch the sidewalls. I've assumed this is just the way it is.

Has anyone used the openDACT auto calibration tool successfully with their Kossel? Every time I've attempted to use it to check heights, it does not stop moving to the bed and just grinds and scraps , always wanting to go down, never wanting to stop and think about what I want it to do.

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Quote
UncleSas
Has anyone replaced the wheels on the carriages?

Mine wobble a lot (~1mm deflection in the carriage) because the bearings are sloppy, and I think that's where most of the ringing I'm getting is coming from.

If you have replaced them, what did you use? I'm thinking about the Open Builds V Wheels, but don't know if any of their offerings will work with the regular 2020. There are also these other ones that certainly will, but I want them with a 5mm ID, and they're a bit pricy. In both cases, I'd buy just the tires, and source my own bearings assuming just the tires are available.

Not sure if these will work, but I'm going to be trying them out soon to hopefully reduce the wobble:

[www.thingiverse.com]

@CapatinTim: Still not, no. And they didn't react to you AT effin ALL (on the forums), which I find quite weird. Or did I miss anything?

@ayudtee: Ringing = springiness in the system. Therefore I *think* a lot of the ringing is caused by the made-in-china GT2 belts. They are not perfect in any way and there are much better solutions out there. E.g. 3MR Powergrip. Still gotta upgrade to those to test the impact.

Quote
docpayce
@CapatinTim: Still not, no. And they didn't react to you AT effin ALL (on the forums), which I find quite weird. Or did I miss anything?

Not a peep lol. I found a YouTube video by the creator and asked for help. He replied quickly, but said he's to busy to really help, and he gave me a quick suggestion, but it didn't work

---

Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Thanks for the responses!

@ayudtee: I was considering upgrading the motors for other reasons, and have been looking for suitable German, US, or Japanese manufacture steppers. With respect to the rollers, do the OpenBuilds rollers run in the extrusions that came with the kit, or did you have to swap them out for V-slot? Also, did you have to replace your carriages to use those wheels? Hmmm, and what were the specs on the motors you swapped in?

@meq123: The wobble is in the bearings themselves. There's a huge amount of play between the inner and outer races. Also, that part isn't designed for loads in that direction. (normal to the plane of rotation?) (axial?) The hubs of the bearings are locked down very tightly. To get rid of that play, I've got to replace the wheels, since the wheels and bearings are a single unit. I wish it was just a matter of a loose screw. (In a similar light, I find that tightening the bolts on my neck half a turn every morning helps me think more clearly. )

@spiffcow: I'm considering replacing the whole carriage arrangement, which is leading to just going magnetic with the whole business end of the machine. Also setting up to be able to swap out hot ends...

@docpayce: Why the switch out from the GT2? Or are you suggesting just buying a better quality belting, like perhaps an aramid or just nicer glass filled GT2? I've rebuilt a few woodworking machines, and know from experience that the belting matters a lot when you must have a vibration free experience. This small stuff goes in the opposite direction of where I'm normally knocking about with matched pairs of belts and dynamically balanced cast steel sheaves on 5+ hp motors.

Right now, I'm getting print quality that's good enough for my primary purpose for the printer, which is 5" dust collection fittings, but I think I can get it to give me prints that can't be easily distinguished from high quality cast parts...

Thanks again!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2016 11:56AM by UncleSas.

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iknownothing
Same issue here. Have been struggling for a two weeks trying to figure out what's been happening. I've been doing the same thing, taking apart the extruder to get to the jam. I even tried letting the heater block hang without the heat sink at 240°, but I still couldn't get it cleared. I ended up having to take apart the nozzle, heater block and M6 collar and using a torch on the nozzle and collar to clear the filament. I also assembled those parts when the heater block is at 240° to reduce the possibility that those pieces would loosen due to heat expansion of the heater block ( this already happened to me during a first print ). I've just been trying PLA with a temp of 190°. Extruder is jammed as I type this and dread having to take it all apart again. I think the issue is heat creep, but don't know how to resolve it. I printed this: [www.thingiverse.com] (at 110% scale my newly acquired Monoprice Mini), to see if would help, but I still got a jam! I may try ABS to see if that makes a difference ( like meq123 ). Odd that since ABS requires higher temps and thosmos has been successful with 240° temps ....

After another catastrophic crash of the printhead into the print bed while trying out a different firmware, it started jamming just about every time. I ordered some replacement print heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017OMRP5Y) and now it's workin great on the first print!