Building a Rostock Delta, need someone with experience

Hello all,

I am going to be building a Rostock Delta soon and I need to know exactly how many nuts, bolts and spacers I will be needing?

This is the exact build I am going for: [www.thingiverse.com]

Cheers.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/08/2015 04:20AM by TehStranger.

bump

Rostock is an old design. You are likely to get more help if you build one of the more recent derivatives, such as Kossel or Cherry Pi.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
Rostock is an old design. You are likely to get more help if you build one of the more recent derivatives, such as Kossel or Cherry Pi.

It's ok I found out everything I need. How does the Rostock differ in terms of performance compared to a Kossel or Cherry Pi?

Hi !

I have built 2 rostocks and been calibrating and modifying it for about a year, i might be able to help some.
the main thing i thing you should consider, don't build to high, and if you do, build it sturdy.
I built my first with print height about 400mm with only two wooden boards in the same direction, i should add another in the opposite direction so it wouldn't wobble.
Original joints in plastic caused some problem for me, on the outer regions the print got cramped together, got a post about it here on the forums
Changed to magnetic that is much more stable, but buy strong magnets, no china-crap, been there, done that

But i really like my printer and wouldn't choose another design, maybe kossel but still delta.


///Mats, Sweden

Quote
mrg78
Hi !

I have built 2 rostocks and been calibrating and modifying it for about a year, i might be able to help some.
the main thing i thing you should consider, don't build to high, and if you do, build it sturdy.
I built my first with print height about 400mm with only two wooden boards in the same direction, i should add another in the opposite direction so it wouldn't wobble.
Original joints in plastic caused some problem for me, on the outer regions the print got cramped together, got a post about it here on the forums
Changed to magnetic that is much more stable, but buy strong magnets, no china-crap, been there, done that

But i really like my printer and wouldn't choose another design, maybe kossel but still delta.


///Mats, Sweden

Thanks for the input!
I am buying 1 metre rods (1000mm) what does that translate to in build volume? Should I just stick to 762mm?

Also, do the wooden parts require a laser cutter or CNC machine at all?

Thanks!!!

Yeah, i used 1 meter rods as well, but since they stick out on each side you can just let the stick out even more on the top, and maybe cut them of if there in the way.
But if you build it really sturdy it may not be a problem for full 1 meter height, i guess.

It is pretty important to get the angles exact on the baseplate and top.
I printed the drawing on a A1 printer and drew from that on the board, put two boards together and used a band saw so they where exactly the same.
A friend of mine used a jigsaw to cut but it didn't turn out straight, I don't recommend using that.

Quote
mrg78
...
the main thing i thing you should consider, don't build to high...
///Mats, Sweden

Quote
TehStranger
Should I just stick to 762mm?

Yes.

Quote
mrg78
Yeah, i used 1 meter rods as well, but since they stick out on each side you can just let the stick out even more on the top, and maybe cut them of if there in the way.
But if you build it really sturdy it may not be a problem for full 1 meter height, i guess.

It is pretty important to get the angles exact on the baseplate and top.
I printed the drawing on a A1 printer and drew from that on the board, put two boards together and used a band saw so they where exactly the same.
A friend of mine used a jigsaw to cut but it didn't turn out straight, I don't recommend using that.

Quote
AndrewBCN

Quote
mrg78
...
the main thing i thing you should consider, don't build to high...
///Mats, Sweden

Quote
TehStranger
Should I just stick to 762mm?

Yes.

Really sorry for the late reply, guys.

I bought the 1 metre rods and I'll see how it goes.

What voltage should the motors be set to?

What type of motor is it? (Data sheet will say something about the max current)
Also what type of driver do you have?

This is a nice guide, [reprap.org]

Quote
mikes3ds
What type of motor is it? (Data sheet will say something about the max current)
Also what type of driver do you have?

This is a nice guide, [reprap.org]

I have Nema 17 motors and A4988 drivers

Links: [www.ebay.com.au]

[www.ebay.com.au]

Another question: In the Rostock bill of materials it says use PFA tubing for the extruder but I can only find PTFE, does it really matter?


Cheers.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2015 12:44AM by TehStranger.

Servo:
Rated Current: 1.2A (That is what the ebay site says; however, I like looking at the datasheet as well)
ITrip can be equal or lower than current rating.

Resistor
Rs=0.2 ohm (StepStick)


Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs
Vref = 1A * 8 * .2
Vref = 1/6

Just follow a video or this on how to do it [reprap.org], its really easy.

[Deleted] Posted twice on accident

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2015 01:40AM by mikes3ds.

Quote
mikes3ds
Servo:
Rated Current: 1.2A (That is what the ebay site says; however, I like looking at the datasheet as well)
ITrip can be equal or lower than current rating.

Resistor
Rs=0.2 ohm (StepStick)


Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs
Vref = 1A * 8 * .2
Vref = 1/6

Just follow a video or this on how to do it [reprap.org], its really easy.

Can I adjust those separately or do they work off the current I set it to?

I'll watch a video soon to try and get a better understanding of it.

Cheers.

Just watch the a video, it will make since