Ball Bearing Help?

Ok, so having lots of issues drilling that ball bearings. I am going off the cherry PI design with 10mm ball bearings.

The problems/attempts:
The lathe does not hold the ball bearing well enough it just gets pushed back. (Even with rubber grips)
Drill press I can never get it in the center, I might make a jig to hold it but the ball bearing is so small wont it just spin the jig.

Is there a cheap alternative I can buy anywhere? (Links please)

Quote
mikes3ds
Ok, so having lots of issues drilling that ball bearings. I am going off the cherry PI design with 10mm ball bearings.

The problems/attempts:
The lathe does not hold the ball bearing well enough it just gets pushed back. (Even with rubber grips)
Drill press I can never get it in the center, I might make a jig to hold it but the ball bearing is so small wont it just spin the jig.

Is there a cheap alternative I can buy anywhere? (Links please)

How about 10 mm balls drilled and tapped M4

Doug

In the lathe, you can put in a backer block to keep it from moving back. It all depends on the lathe/chuck design on how to do this.

A jig to hold the bearing in place on the drill press can be made as follows:

1. Clamp a small block of aluminum or steel on the drill press. Don't move it after this and it will remain centered.
2. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the bearing in an aluminum or steel block. (Use a spotting drill to start, or ensure the bit doesn't wander when starting the hole.)
3. Put the bearing on the hole.
4. Place a heavy washer over the bearing (or make a plate with a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the bearing).
5. Clamp the washer/plate down. If you don't have a clamp set, then drill and tap several holes in the aluminum/steel block and use bolts to secure the washer/plate and bearing.
6. Use an end mill to level the top of the ball bearing.
7. Use a spotting drill to start the hole.
8. Drill and tap the hole.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2015 04:37PM by etfrench.

How about not drilling them?

I originally built a Cherry Pi III with 10mm magnets, then switched to the string-and-spring approach. I got 10mm bearings and just kept the cupped-out rods from the original design. You could super-glue the bearings into the plastic sockets, but I never bothered. When you spring it all together the tension holds the balls and rods in place. And it just makes more sense to me anyway, since with a little grease the cupped rods slide on the bearings like butter, and you don't have to rely on the balls pivoting in the plastic at all.

Three good ideas....um choices.

Dang I don't know what one is best.

ummmm

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2015 08:48PM by mikes3ds.

If it was me I would get the ones ready done on Ebay so you might wait a couple of weeks for them but think of the time saved also Ball bearing's tend to be very hard and getting a drill to go in exactly central would not be that easy.

£2.59 for 12 what's that around $4-5 I guess

Doug

I am happy with these: 16 x ∅10 M4 Threaded Ball Rod Ends for Kossel Mini 3D Printer Magnetic Joints