Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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Tha_Reaper
thanks for the pictures. They help a lot. I cut the belts, and i've decided to adjust the pulley and the top corners later.
I just installed the endstops with the endstop brackets from the second page of this topic. they fit, but there is a little problem that you cant get to the screw to move the endstop up and down without physicly removing the endstop first. Ive tried to measure it out so that they are in the same spot, but that will probably be off by a mm or so. do they need to be at the exact same hight?

Also i have 6 endstops in my kit... i know where to place 3 of them, but why do i need 6?! Everyone got 6?

I have build a little blog by the way about the building progress. [kosselreprap.blogspot.be]
Not much usefull info there, but for people that want to start building maybe a good place to check for what to expect.

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Tha_Reaper
thanks for the pictures. They help a lot. I cut the belts, and i've decided to adjust the pulley and the top corners later.
I just installed the endstops with the endstop brackets from the second page of this topic. they fit, but there is a little problem that you cant get to the screw to move the endstop up and down without physicly removing the endstop first. Ive tried to measure it out so that they are in the same spot, but that will probably be off by a mm or so. do they need to be at the exact same hight?

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DRTak
I printed a knob for my LCD screen. And the hole that fits the knob is 2mm too wide. Is there an easy fix for this?

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hacker

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DRTak
I printed a knob for my LCD screen. And the hole that fits the knob is 2mm too wide. Is there an easy fix for this?

do you print on the blue tape? That should do, I think.

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xile6
Max and min endstops.
...
If you have the liner rails. You put the other endstop mounts on the bottom. Kinda stops the part from sliding compeltey off the rail if something was to break. But as said there not really needed.

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DRTak
I am in the process of filing down the rods.

But in the interim, how do you hide the wires to make this look pretty. I had friend come over and he was NOT impressed. He had this look like it looks like a rats nest.

IMG_4545.jpeg

IMG_4487.jpeg

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nebbian

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DRTak
I am in the process of filing down the rods.

But in the interim, how do you hide the wires to make this look pretty. I had friend come over and he was NOT impressed. He had this look like it looks like a rats nest.

Self-closing braided wrap is really handy for this:

[attachment 63357 IMG_4545.jpeg]

You can also build a pedestal to put your power supply and cables so that everything is all in one place without visible wires:

[www.thingiverse.com]

[attachment 63358 IMG_4487.jpeg]

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DRTak

Wow that looks great. How did you attach the pedastal to the base?

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GrAndAG

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xile6
Max and min endstops.
...
If you have the liner rails. You put the other endstop mounts on the bottom. Kinda stops the part from sliding compeltey off the rail if something was to break. But as said there not really needed.

I also got 6 endstops. But, actually, there are not enough pins to connect all of them. Because "Z-min" pins are already occupied by autolevel probe.
And even in case of linear rails you can physically limit them (to prevent them off), using large screws (or something like that) at the ends.
BTW, I think 6 endstops are used to limit axes on classic (non-delta) printers. And they just include electronics set from Prusa or Mendel.

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DRTak
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}

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GrAndAG

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DRTak
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}

AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator.


Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for out steppers?

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DRTak

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GrAndAG

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DRTak
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}

AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator.


Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for out steppers?

Man I wished I would have seen this earlier. All day I have been guessing numbers from 100. I finally hit 80 and tested a print. It was 10.5mm instead of what I had before which is 11.6mm.

So now I am testing out #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT 75, 75, 75, 95 to see if that is even closer to 10mm cube.

I didnt test the stepper driver voltage. I just plugged it in and went with it

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hacker

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DRTak

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GrAndAG

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DRTak
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}

AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator.


Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for out steppers?

Man I wished I would have seen this earlier. All day I have been guessing numbers from 100. I finally hit 80 and tested a print. It was 10.5mm instead of what I had before which is 11.6mm.

So now I am testing out #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT 75, 75, 75, 95 to see if that is even closer to 10mm cube.

I didnt test the stepper driver voltage. I just plugged it in and went with it

The firmware they provide has 79 steps per unit. Which seems to be a spot on despite meaningful calculations.

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Koenig

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hacker

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DRTak

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GrAndAG

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DRTak
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}

AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator.


Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for out steppers?

Man I wished I would have seen this earlier. All day I have been guessing numbers from 100. I finally hit 80 and tested a print. It was 10.5mm instead of what I had before which is 11.6mm.

So now I am testing out #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT 75, 75, 75, 95 to see if that is even closer to 10mm cube.

I didnt test the stepper driver voltage. I just plugged it in and went with it

The firmware they provide has 79 steps per unit. Which seems to be a spot on despite meaningful calculations.

The only real measurement on a delta that you can do that directly relates to steps/mm is measuring the height of an object (Z-axis), the X/Y-plane is is also depending on the length of your rods.

79 vs 80 steps/mm is a difference of 0.15µm/step, in reality this means you would actually have to print something at least 50mm high to be able to measure any real difference + your printer have to really have to have a superbly calibrated Z-axis, irregularities in top/bottom layer are probably going to be bigger.
To be real sure you'd have to print something at least 100mm high to rule out other stuff than steps/mm.

Here's a good calibration guide that covers both scaling errors as well as dimensional errors.

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hacker

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Koenig

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hacker

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DRTak

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GrAndAG

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DRTak
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}

AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator.


Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for out steppers?

Man I wished I would have seen this earlier. All day I have been guessing numbers from 100. I finally hit 80 and tested a print. It was 10.5mm instead of what I had before which is 11.6mm.

So now I am testing out #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT 75, 75, 75, 95 to see if that is even closer to 10mm cube.

I didnt test the stepper driver voltage. I just plugged it in and went with it

The firmware they provide has 79 steps per unit. Which seems to be a spot on despite meaningful calculations.

The only real measurement on a delta that you can do that directly relates to steps/mm is measuring the height of an object (Z-axis), the X/Y-plane is is also depending on the length of your rods.

79 vs 80 steps/mm is a difference of 0.15µm/step, in reality this means you would actually have to print something at least 50mm high to be able to measure any real difference + your printer have to really have to have a superbly calibrated Z-axis, irregularities in top/bottom layer are probably going to be bigger.
To be real sure you'd have to print something at least 100mm high to rule out other stuff than steps/mm.

Here's a good calibration guide that covers both scaling errors as well as dimensional errors.

Thank you for the link. I think steps per mm affect xy plane as well, I think in delta everything affects everything. I don't remember what oddity went away when I changed 80 to 79, but it was definitely not the height of 100mm object. It could be of course that there were other reasons for it.

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Koenig
They do, but the only way to verify that you have the correct steps/mm is to measure the Z-axis.

Look at my edit for an easier way to take a measurement that tells you if you have the correct steps/mm on a delta.

As the steps/mm affects everything in delta-geometry it is vital to have that correct before attempting to do any other sort of calibration/corrections.

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nebbian
The hotend just slides into the effector... but you do need to remove some material with a dremel. I think I posted a picture on page 3 or thereabouts.

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Koenig

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hacker

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Koenig

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hacker

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DRTak

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GrAndAG

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DRTak
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}

AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator.


Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for out steppers?

Man I wished I would have seen this earlier. All day I have been guessing numbers from 100. I finally hit 80 and tested a print. It was 10.5mm instead of what I had before which is 11.6mm.

So now I am testing out #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT 75, 75, 75, 95 to see if that is even closer to 10mm cube.

I didnt test the stepper driver voltage. I just plugged it in and went with it

The firmware they provide has 79 steps per unit. Which seems to be a spot on despite meaningful calculations.

The only real measurement on a delta that you can do that directly relates to steps/mm is measuring the height of an object (Z-axis), the X/Y-plane is is also depending on the length of your rods.

79 vs 80 steps/mm is a difference of 0.15µm/step, in reality this means you would actually have to print something at least 50mm high to be able to measure any real difference + your printer have to really have to have a superbly calibrated Z-axis, irregularities in top/bottom layer are probably going to be bigger.
To be real sure you'd have to print something at least 100mm high to rule out other stuff than steps/mm.

Here's a good calibration guide that covers both scaling errors as well as dimensional errors.

Thank you for the link. I think steps per mm affect xy plane as well, I think in delta everything affects everything. I don't remember what oddity went away when I changed 80 to 79, but it was definitely not the height of 100mm object. It could be of course that there were other reasons for it.

They do, but the only way to verify that you have the correct steps/mm is to measure the Z-axis.

Look at my edit for an easier way to take a measurement that tells you if you have the correct steps/mm on a delta.

As the steps/mm affects everything in delta-geometry it is vital to have that correct before attempting to do any other sort of calibration/corrections.

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Tha_Reaper
How did everyone fix/clip/screw his printbed to the structure?

EDIT: And i'm a little confused by the printhead assembly and how its supposed to fit onto the effector. the manual just seems to skip that whole part.

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nebbian
Heya Reaper,

I put a 3mm screw through the heatbed, then onto that I put:

A spring
A small washer
A larger washer
Loctite
A T nut

Repeat for a total of 3 of these adjustment stacks.

This allows you to level the bed by adjusting the screws. The loctite allows you to turn the screw a quarter turn anticlockwise, and the T nut will pop out of the extrusion. So you can remove and replace the bed without losing your calibration.

It works well.