Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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DRTak

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 100} // x 75 87.3 was my default but prints are 10.6mm not 10mm
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 300, 300} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,1000,1000} // X, Y, Z, E max

I hope everyone elses looks similar?

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DRTak

Also, I noticed that I was not getting enough filament and my parts were kinda off. Small parts that is. Im trying to print LEGOs which are impossible.

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o_lampe
slic3r 1.2.9 has known issues with perimeter gap filling.
Check the slicer-subforum for more.
-Olaf

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Sir_Death

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o_lampe
slic3r 1.2.9 has known issues with perimeter gap filling.
Check the slicer-subforum for more.
-Olaf

Da****! sh**! Piece of crap!

Sorry for these ugly words :-)
I'm new to 3D-printing, and this is my first printer.
Lost many hours the last two weeks (must be over 30 hours) just trying to get Slic3r 1.2.9 to work.
I might change to Slic3r 1.1.7 - but I think I don't want to see the bastard slic3r anymore.
(Little word joke - the german word for bastard sound phonetically simillar to Slicer... )

What do you think of Cura?

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nebbian
More upgrades.

I was sick of my probe binding and not working properly, so made a piece of metal like this, with a piece of teflon tube inside it:

[attachment 64425 IMG_4751.jpeg]

It gets attached to the effector like this:
[attachment 64426 IMG_4752.jpeg]

It works quite well, no more binding, the guide really helps to keep the allen key where it should be. Now I just need to upgrade to the RC of marlin-dev to actually use the thing!


Someone smarter than me would probably use a 3D printed piece. But I am impatient, and had the aluminium handy...

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dc42
You might also want to consider using my IR probe instead of the mechanical one. See [miscsolutions.wordpress.com] for details.

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hacker

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dc42
You might also want to consider using my IR probe instead of the mechanical one. See [miscsolutions.wordpress.com] for details.

Thanks, David, I'm already considering it for quite a while now. ;-)

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hacker

Keep calm and use all slicers. Cura, slic3r, kisslicer, mattersomething, you don't have to stick to one. I regularly get mad at the slicer I use and switch to some other then go back, etc. ;-) Also sometimes depending on the nature of the part you're printing you may chose different slicer. Embrace the whole wonderful world of slicers ;-)

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dc42
You might also want to consider using my IR probe instead of the mechanical one. See [miscsolutions.wordpress.com] for details.

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Sir_Death
Just gave Slic3r one last try.... Version 1.1.7
G-Code says: ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm
Measured: 0.49mm

.....

Never ever Slic3r 1.2.x anymore

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dc42
You don't need to change Marlin at all to use the IR probe. Use the same firmware configuration that you would use for a normally closed microswitch, i.e. active high signal and pullup resistor enabled.

See the instructions I linked to earlier for what bed surfaces do and don't work with the IR sensor.

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DRTak

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dc42
You don't need to change Marlin at all to use the IR probe. Use the same firmware configuration that you would use for a normally closed microswitch, i.e. active high signal and pullup resistor enabled.

See the instructions I linked to earlier for what bed surfaces do and don't work with the IR sensor.

Ok. Im very interested but I have a silly question. I have always wanted to do the z probe auto deploy trick. Can this IR probe make that happened? Or how does it all work?

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theda1
OK being a Newbee to 3d Printing I have 2 questions to throw out there
1. Why blow air over the heatbed while printing ?
2. I managed printing without the Z Probe completely using bed leveling for fine tuning. Why is The Z Probe needed when a G28 Removes it.?

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theda1
OK being a Newbee to 3d Printing I have 2 questions to throw out there
1. Why blow air over the heatbed while printing ?
2. I managed printing without the Z Probe completely using bed leveling for fine tuning. Why is The Z Probe needed when a G28 Removes it.?

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o_lampe
1. It's a compromise between no cooling and cooling the part with a fan attached to the effector ( which adds weight )

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nebbian
I was sick of my probe binding and not working properly, so made a piece of metal like this, with a piece of teflon tube inside it:

[attachment 64425 IMG_4751.jpeg]

It gets attached to the effector like this:
[attachment 64426 IMG_4752.jpeg]

It works quite well, no more binding, the guide really helps to keep the allen key where it should be.

hot-end_mount_z-probe_hole.jpg

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GrAndAG

Actually, z-probe allen key should go through opposite hole in hot-end mount. I.e, in aluminum mounts this hole even has smaller diameter then others, and it definitely points on the fact that this hole is not for screw.
[attachment 64508 hot-end_mount_z-probe_hole.jpg]

If it still stuck (mine is not) you can drill this hole (in the mount and the effector) and insert PTFE tube there.

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nebbian
Thanks for the post, hopefully this helps someone else when they're building their kit.

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hacker
But sintron kit doesn't have this part, does it?

sintron_hot-end_mount.jpg

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GrAndAG

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hacker
But sintron kit doesn't have this part, does it?

Sintron kit does have this part. It's slightly different in shape because it incorporates fan mount. But it still recognizable from the picture above. Here it is:

[attachment 64575 sintron_hot-end_mount.jpg]

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hacker
IIRC, in particular it's much thinner?