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Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

Posted by Miamicraft 
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o_lampe
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 05, 2015 04:35AM
Quote
nebbian
Alternatively if you're feeling brave you could disassemble the push fit connector and drill it out the same as the one on the hotend, which would allow you to push the bowden cable all the way through the hole in the extruder until it's almost touching the extruder gear and idler bearing.

Pretty risky with a M5 or M6 thread. On my e3d clones heatsink it was a 10mm thread with plenty of "meat".

If you still want to try, be aware of brass needs a different drill-angle than the average "all purpose" metal drill has.
-Olaf
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GrAndAG
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 05, 2015 04:41AM
Quote
Tha_Reaper

What's that part that you used? Can I buy that somewhere?

You can buy push fit connector which has larger inner hole and capable to pass PTFE tube through. Like this.
So, after the pushing PTFE tube you can get the following:




Quote
Sir_Death
I've a strange roll of PLA - more than about 10-15mm/sek printing speed is not possible.. (Volumetric 1,3mm³/sek)..
It's definitely strange. Because I'm printing PLA at 60mm/s for perimeters and 100mm/s for infill without any issue.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/05/2015 04:55AM by GrAndAG.
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Anonymous User
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 05, 2015 05:19AM
Quote
GrAndAG

Quote
Sir_Death
I've a strange roll of PLA - more than about 10-15mm/sek printing speed is not possible.. (Volumetric 1,3mm³/sek)..
It's definitely strange. Because I'm printing PLA at 60mm/s for perimeters and 100mm/s for infill without any issue.

Layer Height 0,2mm
Nozzle 0,4mm
215°C
everything above about 1,4mm³/sek leads to jumping Extruder stepper Driver - so to be on save side only using 1.3mm³/sek
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DRTak
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 05, 2015 11:03AM
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Tha_Reaper
Quote
Sir_Death
Quote
Tha_Reaper
Sintron offered me a new PSU. I dint expect that. the service is really incredible for a HK seller. I asked if they could send a 20A version, and they agreed for 10 dollar more.
Good deal, good service. parts quality may not be premium grade (as should have been expected for this price), but i'm still happy i bought this set.

More important is the ammount of power, the RAMPS is eating away from the heatbed.
Inputvoltage 11.97V Output RAMPS for Heatbed 9.46V - RAMPS gets very hot!
I don't want to discuss things with sintron anymore - just try to use a relay for heatbed and a PC-Powersupply (360W on +12V available)

But I have another strange behaviour:
I'm printig PLA with Nozzle 0.4mm
Layerheight 0,2mm
Hotend Temp 215°C (less temperature I won't get stron parts) - Temperature checked is 212°C
I can only achive 15mm/sec - seems much to low for me.... trying more Speed, extrudermotor jumps back - it can't push the Filament faster because it won't melt fast enough...
did the volumetric Speed test - only 1.3mm³/sek - read somewhere it should be over 5mm³/sek

So what are your values?
thanks for the heads-up. I have never noticed the RAMPS to run very hot, but i only heated the heatbed to 60 degrees for PLA. Have not tried ABS yet before i can put stronger fans under my heatbed and i have kapton tape (painters tape probably wont like it if i heat the bed to 90 degrees for an extended amount of time. Anyone tried printing without any type of tape or adhesive on the bed by the way?

about the extrusion problem: maybe the current is set too low on the extruder, causing it to skip steps? just guessing, i dont know jack about currents and what the right current would be...
If you tell me how to perform the volumetric test, i will gladly try it and report the results back.
.

Im no expert but I tried Kapton tape on bed for PLA and ABS. Amazingly good with PLA. But not so good with abs.

I tried Kapton plus glue stick. Crazy adhesion with PLA. Ok with ABS.

Then I tried No kapton NO glue on aluminum bed. Ok adhesion with PLA. Ok with ABS.

So my final analysis was this. Glue stick for abs and PLA. Works great.

PLA bed temp is 60 deg C. It has crazy adhesion with glue stick. I have to wait for the bed temp to go down to room temp. And then use putty knife or exacto to pry up the print.

ABS with glue stick. Bed temp of 100 deg C. It takes awhile with for the heatbed to get up to temp. But if you can maintain 100 deg C there is very good adhesion for ABS.
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DRTak
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 05, 2015 11:30AM
Quote
GrAndAG
Today I did very first print. It works! Here it is the 1x1x1cm test cube:

[attachment 65181 20151102_232358_crop.jpg]

The bottom layer is a bit junky because the filament was just inserted and the extrusion was not started at very beginning.
But why the corners are round a bit? Is it normal?
And it seems it over-extruded (but I calibrated extruder precisely: 100mm requested - 100mm got).
The settings was: PLA @ 200C, layer 0.3.

[EDIT]
And after the print I got a thin straight solid thread of plastic 20cm long from last printing point to the nozzle. Not enough retraction at the end? Or wrong temperature?

[EDIT2]
How to eliminate plastic threads while head is moving from object to object without printing?



That is the most perfect cube. Better than mine
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Tha_Reaper
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 06, 2015 02:48PM
Does anyone happen to have the STLs for the sintron effector and holder/bracket, or can recommend an effector that works with the E3D that sintron provided in their kits? mine was printed with a very badly calibrated printer it seems, and there is a 2 layer difference between left and right, resulting in a slanted hotend (and small gaps in my prints)
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 06, 2015 03:15PM
Quote
Tha_Reaper
Does anyone happen to have the STLs for the sintron effector and holder/bracket, or can recommend an effector that works with the E3D that sintron provided in their kits? mine was printed with a very badly calibrated printer it seems, and there is a 2 layer difference between left and right, resulting in a slanted hotend (and small gaps in my prints)

These are the files they (Sintron) sent me when they proposed "fixed" carriage and effector and I didn't want to wait. I don't use them and they didn't really fix all there is to fix, but I think that's more or less what you're looking for.

And one more file too big to attach — [dl.dropboxusercontent.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/06/2015 03:18PM by hacker.
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Attachments:
open | download - carrige.stl (461.1 KB)
open | download - effect1.stl (424.3 KB)
Tha_Reaper
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 06, 2015 04:59PM
thats exactly what i needed. thanks
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GrAndAG
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 06, 2015 06:01PM
Quote
Tha_Reaper
Does anyone happen to have the STLs for the sintron effector and holder/bracket
The bracket seems can be borrowed from this thing - [www.thingiverse.com]
As for "fixed" effector, just be noticed that it can not match the carriage width (the size between arms): "fixed" has 38.5mm vs 40mm originally.
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Tha_Reaper
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 07, 2015 07:37AM
That's bad...
I found this one : [www.thingiverse.com]
Looks like that one has the same dimensions as the sintron version
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 07, 2015 08:23AM
Quote
Tha_Reaper
That's bad...
I found this one : [www.thingiverse.com]
Looks like that one has the same dimensions as the sintron version

Looks good to me.

Also, here is the effector I made with nut pockets because after too much of experimenting plastic didn't hold bolts very well. Just uploaded it here — [www.thingiverse.com]
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Bigkahuna2187
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 10:47AM
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks
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o_lampe
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 11:09AM
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks

Aloha,
if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. sad smiley


-Olaf
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Bigkahuna2187
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 12:14PM
Quote
o_lampe
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks

Aloha,
if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. sad smiley


-Olaf

Thanks for the useful information.

I'm quite capable of building this, I'm just trying to double check my work so I don't fry anything.

Unrelated to my first question: Does it matter what two wires on the hotend.
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Bigkahuna2187
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 12:39PM
Quote
o_lampe
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks

Aloha,
if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. sad smiley


-Olaf

Also, not to mention here in America, we use Black and White for Load and Neutral. Maybe there's no standards where this thing was made. Mine also didnt come with a grounded power cord.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2015 12:49PM by Bigkahuna2187.
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Koenig
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 12:50PM
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Quote
o_lampe
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks

Aloha,
if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. sad smiley


-Olaf

Thanks for the useful information.

I'm quite capable of building this, I'm just trying to double check my work so I don't fry anything.

Unrelated to my first question: Does it matter what two wires on the hotend.

I seriously don't think he wrote that with an attitude.

That part of the printer you were asking about could be lethal if not done properly.

As I read the question and I suppose he did as well you don't come out as very enlightened on the matter, so he gave a sound advice.

Regarding the hotend - I understand it as you are wondering if the heating element is polarized?
It isn't so it won't mattermatter which wire goes on + or -

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2015 12:52PM by Koenig.
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Bigkahuna2187
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 02:20PM
Quote
Koenig
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Quote
o_lampe
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks

Aloha,
if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. sad smiley


-Olaf

Thanks for the useful information.

I'm quite capable of building this, I'm just trying to double check my work so I don't fry anything.

Unrelated to my first question: Does it matter what two wires on the hotend.

I seriously don't think he wrote that with an attitude.

That part of the printer you were asking about could be lethal if not done properly.

As I read the question and I suppose he did as well you don't come out as very enlightened on the matter, so he gave a sound advice.

Regarding the hotend - I understand it as you are wondering if the heating element is polarized?
It isn't so it won't mattermatter which wire goes on + or -

Thanks. Yea I wasn't sure if it was polar or not.

As for the power supply, I will be getting a proper power cord (one with a ground) and correct color coadings for load and neutral. I dont understand the intenet behind the one supplied with this kit. I guess I asked the question too vaguely which I can understand why you guys responded the way you did.

Thanks for the help.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2015 02:22PM by Bigkahuna2187.
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 02:27PM
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Quote
Koenig
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Quote
o_lampe
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks

Aloha,
if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. sad smiley


-Olaf

Thanks for the useful information.

I'm quite capable of building this, I'm just trying to double check my work so I don't fry anything.

Unrelated to my first question: Does it matter what two wires on the hotend.

I seriously don't think he wrote that with an attitude.

That part of the printer you were asking about could be lethal if not done properly.

As I read the question and I suppose he did as well you don't come out as very enlightened on the matter, so he gave a sound advice.

Regarding the hotend - I understand it as you are wondering if the heating element is polarized?
It isn't so it won't mattermatter which wire goes on + or -

Thanks. Yea I wasn't sure if it was polar or not.

As for the power supply, I will be getting a proper power cord (one with a ground) and correct color coadings for load and neutral. I dont understand the intenet behind the one supplied with this kit. I guess I asked the question too vaguely which I can understand why you guys responded the way you did.

Thanks for the help.

I'd suggest that whatever you do, you first do that and check the output using multimeter before connecting to the electronics. Frying this PSU is not so bad. I didn't like it, haven't even tried to check if it works. Frying electronics is a bit more traumatic experience.
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Tha_Reaper
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 02:41PM
Quote
hacker
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Quote
Koenig
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Quote
o_lampe
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Silly question. Is the power supply suppose to be 110 or 220V. Also, which wire goes to L and N for AC power.

Thanks

Aloha,
if you have to ask such things, it's better to let someone else with experience do that for you. sad smiley


-Olaf

Thanks for the useful information.

I'm quite capable of building this, I'm just trying to double check my work so I don't fry anything.

Unrelated to my first question: Does it matter what two wires on the hotend.

I seriously don't think he wrote that with an attitude.

That part of the printer you were asking about could be lethal if not done properly.

As I read the question and I suppose he did as well you don't come out as very enlightened on the matter, so he gave a sound advice.

Regarding the hotend - I understand it as you are wondering if the heating element is polarized?
It isn't so it won't mattermatter which wire goes on + or -

Thanks. Yea I wasn't sure if it was polar or not.

As for the power supply, I will be getting a proper power cord (one with a ground) and correct color coadings for load and neutral. I dont understand the intenet behind the one supplied with this kit. I guess I asked the question too vaguely which I can understand why you guys responded the way you did.

Thanks for the help.

I'd suggest that whatever you do, you first do that and check the output using multimeter before connecting to the electronics. Frying this PSU is not so bad. I didn't like it, haven't even tried to check if it works. Frying electronics is a bit more traumatic experience.
Setting the room on fire even more so...

I took a power cord from an old standing lamp. plus side of that cord: it has a footswitch that will cut the power to the PSU totally when i press it. Makes for a great panick button which i've needed a couple of times in the last few days (not because of a fire danger, but because of something going wring with the filament, or with one of the carriages).

I'm printing my first bigger project on my printer at the moment. A 17 cm tall minion, made from glow in the dark filament. 12 hours to make because i accidentl left the infill way too high, and its now too late to stop it and redo it. This will also be the first time that i will leave the printer running overnight.
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GrAndAG
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 08, 2015 05:53PM
Actually, it does not matter which is L and which is N. It's hard to find devices which is sensitive to that. In Europe, you can plug power cord in 2 position (normal and upside down), and you can't distinguish which position is right. Here, you need special indicator tool to detect which hole is L.

[Edit]
BTW. I tried to print Eiffel tower and after 2 section (about 30min) PLA filament was stuck in PTFE inner tube (in heat-breaker). I think it's due to too many retractions and too small printing areas (almost dots). I use 6mm retraction to eliminate strings and threads. And the jam was exactly at 6mm from the hot end of heat-breaker. So, if retraction distance is relatively large in comparison to printing distance after retraction, the filament tends to suck liquid part into heat-breaker and stuck there.
Any thoughts how to avoid this?





Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2015 06:12PM by GrAndAG.
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Bigkahuna2187
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 09, 2015 12:20PM
Are both Com and V+ (four total) connected to the Ramps? I have seen different diagrams and some show 2 connected while some show all 4.

For some reason the Ramps works (fan blows) but the Arduino doesn't come on. The only way to get the Arduino to turn on is unplugging the probe swtch. Any ideas?

Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2015 12:22PM by Bigkahuna2187.
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 09, 2015 12:26PM
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Are both Com and V+ (four total) connected to the Ramps? I have seen different diagrams and some show 2 connected while some show all 4.

For some reason the Ramps works (fan blows) but the Arduino doesn't come on. The only way to get the Arduino to turn on is unplugging the probe swtch. Any ideas?

Thanks

You probably want to connect all four if you're planning to use heatbed. And check if you connected the probe switch right while you're at it.
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Bigkahuna2187
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 09, 2015 09:07PM
Okay I have everything fired up now. Only issue now is going though the checks in Pronterface. All the end stops and probe switch appear to be functiong. When I go to hit the hope button or G28 the X carriage goes down in the opposite direction instead of going towards the end stop. This happens until Y and Z hit their respective stops. Any ideas?

Thanks again.
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 10, 2015 02:47AM
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Okay I have everything fired up now. Only issue now is going though the checks in Pronterface. All the end stops and probe switch appear to be functiong. When I go to hit the hope button or G28 the X carriage goes down in the opposite direction instead of going towards the end stop. This happens until Y and Z hit their respective stops. Any ideas?

Thanks again.

"Hope" buttons sounds like something one would need desperately! ;-) As for directions, assuming you didn't do anything to invert specifically X axis in firmware, check the wiring of X-Motor. Most likely the order of wires is not exactly the same like for Y and Z.
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Bigkahuna2187
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 10, 2015 06:15AM
Haha "home" button in the GUI. I will double check but it appears everything is setup correctly according to the diagrams.

Thanks
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 10, 2015 06:21AM
Quote
Bigkahuna2187
Haha "home" button in the GUI. I will double check but it appears everything is setup correctly according to the diagrams.

Thanks

I figured that, but couldn't resist ;-)

There are many diagrams around and although I'd expect them to be the same and show all motors the same way, you can just compare your X-motor wiring to Y and Z which move in the correct directions. You can often reverse the connector for X and Y motors, but you can't reverse sintron-supplied connectors for Z axis. And the only way you can plug Z in is actually reverse, so I had to reverse direction in firmware. But then again all my motors were moving in the same direction, so it does sound like you did flip one of those…
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MrPCatt
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 10, 2015 07:35AM
Just a quick advice to you guys. If you have a leaking hotend, like pla is squeezing from the threads on the hotend, go fix it asap! I had just a littlebit of leaking there and after some prints ( yes, I got it somehow working) I wanted to clean the noozle (again) and stop the leaking there. I just could not screw the noozle or the screw to the head sink out of the hotend. Like it was welded together. Tried it warm an cold... Finally both threads teared off leaving me with a broken printhead and a puls of 200. This kit drives me nuts, seriously.
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 10, 2015 07:43AM
Quote
MrPCatt
Just a quick advice to you guys. If you have a leaking hotend, like pla is squeezing from the threads on the hotend, go fix it asap! I had just a littlebit of leaking there and after some prints ( yes, I got it somehow working) I wanted to clean the noozle (again) and stop the leaking there. I just could not screw the noozle or the screw to the head sink out of the hotend. Like it was welded together. Tried it warm an cold... Finally both threads teared off leaving me with a broken printhead and a puls of 200. This kit drives me nuts, seriously.

Sounds bad. How warm did you try? Not that it matters now that it's destroyed…
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MrPCatt
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 10, 2015 08:34AM
... from cold to very hot.... just slowly with a torch. No matter what, the screws did not move at all. After the screws broke off I tried to recover it with a "bold extractor", dont know the exact english word. Now where I had nothing to lose I tried even brute force. No chance. Like it was welded together.I gave up when I saw the aluminum breaking from the stretching from the bold extractor.
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hacker
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit
November 10, 2015 08:47AM
Quote
MrPCatt
... from cold to very hot.... just slowly with a torch. No matter what, the screws did not move at all. After the screws broke off I tried to recover it with a "bold extractor", dont know the exact english word. Now where I had nothing to lose I tried even brute force. No chance. Like it was welded together.I gave up when I saw the aluminum breaking from the stretching from the bold extractor.

Hmm… I haven't had it leak, but I did have original hotend clogged and I could remove the nozzle heating it with the cartridge to about 240C IIRC. I'm not sure if using the torch you're likely to heat the proper parts.
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