Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

I currently use Cura. 25mm for the first layer, 50 for walls, 60mm infill. Sometimes I try 80-100 for infill. Stock extruder, hotend, nozzle, fans, everything. I dont have any problems with extrusion what so ever. 15 sounds way to slow for me. The machine is capable for more.
But, I used 2 nozzles so far. And it seems that both came somewhat clogged from the factory. Maybe you can double check if the nozzle really is free. F.e. filament should come out without any curling at all.

I decided to print a duet case and for some reason the edges are curved. So its not an exact square. I have attached pictures. This did not occur when I printed my RAMPS box? Any ideas.

Looks like either a build error or a calibration error to me. Does the diagonal rod length in your M665 command match the measured value?

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
Looks like either a build error or a calibration error to me. Does the diagonal rod length in your M665 command match the measured value?

I typed M665 in repetier and nothing happened. I typed M114 and that works. I dont know why M665 wont show up

If you are using Repetier firmware on your printer, then I guess it's the diagonal rod length that you put in the Repetier firmware configurator that you need to check.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

im using arduino firmware. I bought premade carbon fiber traxas and they guaranteed it was 215mm. Thats what I bought premade on ebay. But i have no idea how to check what my kossel thinks. Repetier is what Im using to print and i get curved edges.

Im going to check all belts, tighten screws etc.

Edit. I might have found the issue. The Y carriage was really loose. I think it might be delaminating. I might have to do what you did (aluminum carriages) but I am sinking a lot into this project as it is

So DC42. How beneficial is it to buy the Kossel aluminum effector, aluminum corners, aluminum carrage and the groove mount hotend? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-printer-part-Reprap-Kossel-for-E3D-V5-hot-end-aluminum-alloy-groove-mount-CNC-/111735522929?hash=item1a03f4c671:g6kAAOSw3ydVwdxt)?

Will it make my system super accurate? You bought the aluminum carriage and effector according to your blog?

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2015 06:45PM by DRTak.

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DRTak
im using arduino firmware. I bought premade carbon fiber traxas and they guaranteed it was 215mm. Thats what I bought premade on ebay. But i have no idea how to check what my kossel thinks. Repetier is what Im using to print and i get curved edges.

Im going to check all belts, tighten screws etc.

Edit. I might have found the issue. The Y carriage was really loose. I think it might be delaminating. I might have to do what you did (aluminum carriages) but I am sinking a lot into this project as it is

So DC42. How beneficial is it to buy the Kossel aluminum effector, aluminum corners, aluminum carrage and the groove mount hotend? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-printer-part-Reprap-Kossel-for-E3D-V5-hot-end-aluminum-alloy-groove-mount-CNC-/111735522929?hash=item1a03f4c671:g6kAAOSw3ydVwdxt)?

Will it make my system super accurate? You bought the aluminum carriage and effector according to your blog?

Yea check your rods.
I have a micromake and today the rod ends just fall out
Turns out the carbon rods where tap or glue in. Premade rods.

And when i had lifting on conners. It turn out that the nozzle was moving convax (effector moing like a u center lower then edges).
So it wasnt laying the conners down good.
Recalibrated and all work.

I plan to buy aluminum corners and carriages. But same as you, ive been spending to much on this.

I have a prusa i3 that all i added was a probe lol. It prints great but isnt the best to look at.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2015 08:01PM by xile6.

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xile6

Quote
DRTak
im using arduino firmware. I bought premade carbon fiber traxas and they guaranteed it was 215mm. Thats what I bought premade on ebay. But i have no idea how to check what my kossel thinks. Repetier is what Im using to print and i get curved edges.

Im going to check all belts, tighten screws etc.

Edit. I might have found the issue. The Y carriage was really loose. I think it might be delaminating. I might have to do what you did (aluminum carriages) but I am sinking a lot into this project as it is

So DC42. How beneficial is it to buy the Kossel aluminum effector, aluminum corners, aluminum carrage and the groove mount hotend? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-printer-part-Reprap-Kossel-for-E3D-V5-hot-end-aluminum-alloy-groove-mount-CNC-/111735522929?hash=item1a03f4c671:g6kAAOSw3ydVwdxt)?

Will it make my system super accurate? You bought the aluminum carriage and effector according to your blog?

Yea check your rods.
I have a micromake and today the rod ends just fall out
Turns out the carbon rods where tap or glue in. Premade rods.

And when i had lifting on conners. It turn out that the nozzle was moving convax (effector moing like a u center lower then edges).
So it wasnt laying the conners down good.
Recalibrated and all work.

I plan to buy aluminum corners and carriages. But same as you, ive been spending to much on this.

I have a prusa i3 that all i added was a probe lol. It prints great but isnt the best to look at.

This unit is costing me a lot. I joke with myself that in the end it will end up costing me over $1000 in upgrades. I just want to make sure I dont hit $2500 or I could have just bought a makerbot

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DRTak
This unit is costing me a lot. I joke with myself that in the end it will end up costing me over $1000 in upgrades. I just want to make sure I dont hit $2500 or I could have just bought a makerbot

Lol i hear you. I brought my prusa i3 the beginning of the year paod around $300 for it. My girl was going to buy me a makerbot, but i told her its a waste of money, since the build volume was smaller and wasnt open soruce enough.
Then got a kossel mini type a few months ago. spend $265 on the basic unit. And probably another $150 in upgrades.
But
hey look at it like this. Your learn how everything works, what works and your have all you want in the end.

I'm following this thread right from the start. When I'd list all the parts that got replaced, there is not much left...maybe the extrusions are still original

But still some users recommend this kit in other threads.
That's beyond my horizon...
-Olaf

Quote
o_lampe
I'm following this thread right from the start. When I'd list all the parts that got replaced, there is not much left...maybe the extrusions are still original

But still some users recommend this kit in other threads.
That's beyond my horizon...
-Olaf

So what did I replace?
-) spoolholder
-) additional powersupply for heatbed
-) external MOSFET for heatbed
-) additional 3mm spacers for carriages (because of to big Rod-Ends)
-) selfmade aluminium-effector (because of to big Rod-Ends)
-) some screws
-) threw away Z-Probe
-) additional Fan for RAMPS

OK - It's printing slower than it should be.... but I had all replacement parts lying arround at home. So yeah - I still think it is OK for the Price I've paid.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2015 03:41AM by Sir_Death.

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DRTak
This unit is costing me a lot. I joke with myself that in the end it will end up costing me over $1000 in upgrades. I just want to make sure I dont hit $2500 or I could have just bought a makerbot

Look at the bright side — you learn more than you would had you spent those money on more expensive printer

Quote
MrPCatt
But, I used 2 nozzles so far. And it seems that both came somewhat clogged from the factory. Maybe you can double check if the nozzle really is free. F.e. filament should come out without any curling at all.

I'm using a 0,38mm diameter wire to clean out the nozzle - so I thought it should be free...
But when I start free extrusion in the air, it alwys curls. I have to pull this curl down slightly (with pliers) - than it goes out the nozzzle without curling.....

I'm printing a big project actually, and it works fine with the slow speed. - maybe I'l try to replace the nozzle some day, to check if clogged nozzle is my issue. - Thanks for the hint!

About Delta-Calibration ... this page gave me some good hints about where to messure and curved edges and uneven virtual printbed and so on. Maybe it helps some of you too.
[trains.socha.com]

Hey all, I have been following this thread for weeks.

I built my Sintron, its original stock, except for the Traxxas ends, and the fan mount is wood since the original broke when I tried to fit it around the hotend.

I have two problems that may be related and wanted to know if anyone had them.
First, the LCD displays only squares, but the audible click works. The wiring seems fool proof, so I suspect a faulty solder joint or dirty power.
Second, when the z probe triggers, the Arduino completely shuts down and the USB disconnects from my computer. I thought the USB port on my laptop might be under powered, but I tried a 5V 1a USB charger and the Arduino powered down again. Also, in desperation, I switched the 2 plugs for the Z probe on the RAMPS and the same result occurred.

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blurd
Hey all, I have been following this thread for weeks.

I built my Sintron, its original stock, except for the Traxxas ends, and the fan mount is wood since the original broke when I tried to fit it around the hotend.

I have two problems that may be related and wanted to know if anyone had them.
First, the LCD displays only squares, but the audible click works. The wiring seems fool proof, so I suspect a faulty solder joint or dirty power.
Second, when the z probe triggers, the Arduino completely shuts down and the USB disconnects from my computer. I thought the USB port on my laptop might be under powered, but I tried a 5V 1a USB charger and the Arduino powered down again. Also, in desperation, I switched the 2 plugs for the Z probe on the RAMPS and the same result occurred.

For the LCD display. I think you have the 2 cables backwards. Try switching them around. I labelled the correct cable and connection 1 and the other one 2 so I wont get confused. Example. One cable should be in slot 1 but you have it in slot 2. Etc

For the z probe. I had that issue. You have the connection backwards or you didnt install the wires correctly or rather the z probe is not entirely connected. The red and black wire might have become disconnected. Example. The red wire should be at the top and the black the bottom or vice versa. I forgot how mine is.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2015 06:07PM by DRTak.

I have been doing some research and decided against buying a resin printer. I was looking at Form1+, China knock off for 1/2 price, iBox for $299, or the cheapest of them all Peachy Printer ($100).

Read some articles and the build plate is small for the peachy and Ibox. The resin I hear is messy and you need a lot of desktop space to work with a resin printer.

All in all I will stick with my kossel

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blurd

First, the LCD displays only squares, but the audible click works. The wiring seems fool proof, so I suspect a faulty solder joint or dirty power.

Did you adjust the contrast? It's a little, em..., thing (variable resistor) at the back side of LCD plate. You can rotate it with screwdriver.
With wrong contrast settings I also saw squares when I switched LCD on at first time. The actual symbols were visible under certain angle though.

Hi, thanks for the responses. I tried your suggestions to no avail.

The picture shows how I hooked up the LCD. I tried adjusting the contrast, but I just got brighter squares.

I wired the z probe switch with a (NC) open, red (NO), black (C) and on RAMPS, I hooked it up black top, red mid, bottom open. If I switch the red and black connections on the board still completely shuts down when the switch is triggered. I check the resistance of the connections and they are flowing from the switch to the board. If I bridge the top and middle pin on the RAMPS where the wires are connected, it completely cuts out just as when the switch is triggered, is it supposed to do that?

Blurd,

Type M119 after you hit HOME. Z probe NOT deployed. It should all be TRIGGERED

Also, no one has done this but I have 3 wires from each endstop going into ramps. Yel Red Black. In that order from top to bottom.

The z probe is only 2 wires and I forgot which way they go. I assume Red Black. Top to bottom

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2015 10:33PM by DRTak.

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blurd
Hi, thanks for the responses. I tried your suggestions to no avail.

The picture shows how I hooked up the LCD. I tried adjusting the contrast, but I just got brighter squares.

I wired the z probe switch with a (NC) open, red (NO), black (C) and on RAMPS, I hooked it up black top, red mid, bottom open. If I switch the red and black connections on the board still completely shuts down when the switch is triggered. I check the resistance of the connections and they are flowing from the switch to the board. If I bridge the top and middle pin on the RAMPS where the wires are connected, it completely cuts out just as when the switch is triggered, is it supposed to do that?

I'm pretty sure you're bridging 5v and ground.

Connect the z probe to the bottom and middle (signal and ground) instead of top and middle (5V and ground).

Blurd,

As for LCD wiring... This way works for me:

It seems your connection is the same, so the issue is not in the wiring.

Quote
blurd
I tried adjusting the contrast, but I just got brighter squares.

They should become darker and eventually disappear.
Another assumption - did you enable LCD support in firmware?


As for Z-probe... Generally all end-stops and z-probe switches are connected by 2-wires only: to ground (-) and signal (S) lines. The 3-rd wire (red) of end-stop switch is just for red LED illuminating on the switch board. 2 wires of z-probe connect to the similar pins as black and yellow wires of end-stop. And Sintron's manual has enough pictures described z-probe wiring.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2015 05:13AM by GrAndAG.

Hi guys, I started reading the whole thread as I am thinking about maybe ordering one but i got pretty disappointed reading the first pages. Can someone tell me at what cost does this printer get to after re-printing the bad/wrongly designed/etc parts and ordering the new parts like the traxxas ball joints and if all the trouble is worth it for a new guy without an existing printer (I can print some parts at a friend's or at the local library though).

I think a whole manual of making Sintron usable is needed and you should get rewarded by the seller just for designing everything to make it better. They should also incorporate at least your solutions in their future iterations... so the other buyers will not have to go through the same ordeal.

Thanks.

---

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Quote
realthor
Hi guys, I started reading the whole thread as I am thinking about maybe ordering one but i got pretty disappointed reading the first pages. Can someone tell me at what cost does this printer get to after re-printing the bad/wrongly designed/etc parts and ordering the new parts like the traxxas ball joints and if all the trouble is worth it for a new guy without an existing printer (I can print some parts at a friend's or at the local library though).

I think a whole manual of making Sintron usable is needed and you should get rewarded by the seller just for designing everything to make it better. They should also incorporate at least your solutions in their future iterations... so the other buyers will not have to go through the same ordeal.

Thanks.

Sorry, but I cannot recommend this kit at all. You may be lucky just spending another 30 €/$ or so on spare parts, but mounting this think together, calibrating it and get it actually working really is a pain in the a... Also, there is no solution for all the cables and display and stuff included. You have to build everything on your own. Till than it looks like junk. Personally I would rather spend twice as much for an actually complete and working kit than buying this one again.

Quote
MrPCatt
Sorry, but I cannot recommend this kit at all. You may be lucky just spending another 30 €/$ or so on spare parts, but mounting this think together, calibrating it and get it actually working really is a pain in the a... Also, there is no solution for all the cables and display and stuff included. You have to build everything on your own. Till than it looks like junk. Personally I would rather spend twice as much for an actually complete and working kit than buying this one again.

Sad to hear that. Is there any other kit you guys can recommend? The following is quite expensive but at least is much more metal parts that are less risky to be wrong sizes.

---

RepRap Lander concept on Concept Forge
RepRap Lander concept on RepRap Forums
My Things, mostly experimental stuff

My recommendation is this [www.think3dprint3d.com], but it costs even more. [I have a slight interest, because it uses my IR height sensor.] Or you could build your own using the Kossel variant described in my blog (see link in my signature) as a basis.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
My recommendation is this [www.think3dprint3d.com], but it costs even more. [I have a slight interest, because it uses my IR height sensor.] Or you could build your own using the Kossel variant described in my blog (see link in my signature) as a basis.

Personally I am looking into a sub-400 kit just to wet my feet and I am planning to use that to build another one so I would really like to even canibalize the kit's parts to use on the one I am going to primarily use for prototyping stuff and mechanical parts for broken stuff (I don't need pretty sub-micron resolution but I need precision and repetability in the "good-enough" range). I will not print yoda heads and mini-mes with it. I need fast printing (prototypes need that so a Delta seeemed logical) and even dual-extruder for fast 0.8+mm infills but that is not mandatory.

I was looking at Sintron with interest but got dissapointed after the first 3-4 pages on this thread. I don't mean to hijack this thread so please go on with Sintron stuff here, I got my answer about recommending Sintron for first 3D printer.

---

RepRap Lander concept on Concept Forge
RepRap Lander concept on RepRap Forums
My Things, mostly experimental stuff

Thanks again everyone! The Z probe is nearly working.

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nebbian
I'm pretty sure you're bridging 5v and ground.

Yep, Dead on.

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DRTak
Type M119 after you hit HOME. Z probe NOT deployed. It should all be TRIGGERED

Also, no one has done this but I have 3 wires from each endstop going into ramps. Yel Red Black. In that order from top to bottom.

I hooked up the endstops to all three pins on the RAMPS too and they work and light up correctly.
It doesn't short out anymore, but it is TRIGGERED when the probe IS deployed. I connected the switch as shown in the manual. Then I tested it hooking up the NC(on the left) terminal on the switch to the middle pin on the RAMPS and it works like you mention, so I must have a mis-wired one.
z probe wiring

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GrAndAG
Another assumption - did you enable LCD support in firmware?

I un-commented these lines

#define SDSUPPORT
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

I verified the SD initializes OK, but the display is just █ █ █ █ █ █ █ █ █ █ █ █ █ █

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realthor
Hi guys, I started reading the whole thread as I am thinking about maybe ordering one but i got pretty disappointed reading the first pages. Can someone tell me at what cost does this printer get to after re-printing the bad/wrongly designed/etc parts and ordering the new parts like the traxxas ball joints and if all the trouble is worth it for a new guy without an existing printer (I can print some parts at a friend's or at the local library though).

I think a whole manual of making Sintron usable is needed and you should get rewarded by the seller just for designing everything to make it better. They should also incorporate at least your solutions in their future iterations... so the other buyers will not have to go through the same ordeal.

Thanks.

Sounds like you are in the spot i was in. I dont regret buying this kit. If you dont want to spend more than 400 bucks on a kit, i really dont see why this woudnt be a good choise. In my oppinion the only thing that really needs to be replaced for this kit is the rods and huge ball ends. When you buy it, ask for them not to ship it with the rods and ball ends. I got a discount on the kit (20 USD) for not wanting the rods and ball ends, and i used that money to buy carbon rods and traxxas ends.
The kit works (if you use traxxas), is complete, and really isnt all that much trouble if you have some patience. You DONT have to reprint ANY part to get it to work if you use traxxas ends. As soon as it works and is well calibrated, you'll want to print new endstop holders first. Maybe you'll want a new effector and z-probe after that, but this isnt nessecary to get it to print well, just to make it print even better (and faster).
Of course there are better kits, and better parts, and metal parts, and better electronics... Maybe you'll want that in the future, but i see a lot of messages acting like you need those way more expensive parts to get your printer to work or to stop yourself from putting a bullet trough your head while building it... its nothing like that. It sure would make it easier, but if you dont have those kind of money right now, this is a fine kit.

my troubles with the stock parts:
- Ballends are useless. stock rods are also too heavy IMO ($35 to fix with traxxas ends and carbon rods)
- Endstop holders pretty much useless. you can use them a bit but replace ASAP ($1-2 to print those)
- Stock PSU cant provide enough power to keep the printer at ABS required temps. Fine for PLA though. Upgrade to 20A for ABS (you can ask sintron to ship a 20A PSU when you order it. they will ask $10 extra).
- RAMPS 12v Mosfet overheats when heating the bed for a long time. Needs extra heatsink and a fan blowing at it. ($2 fix)
- Extruder has a gap between the gear and the start of the PTFE tube. you'll need to fix that otherwise your filament will bend there with disastrous results. tips found in this topic (free - $2 fix)

Quote
realthor
Personally I am looking into a sub-400 kit just to wet my feet and I am planning to use that to build another one so I would really like to even canibalize the kit's parts to use on the one I am going to primarily use for prototyping stuff and mechanical parts for broken stuff.

The T3P3 kit I linked to would be a good basis for cannibalizing to make a larger printer, because it has good electronics and a genuine E3D hot end. You won't find those on any low-cost kits.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].