Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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Tha_Reaper
Because i can change esteps on the fly with the LCD without the need for reslicing. For some reason, when i change the flow setting to 80 (i assume this is 80%) with the LCD, nothing comes out of the nozzle anymore, so i'm not sure that setting does whats it's supposed to do (or that i understand how it works for all i know...)
I was planning on just writing the correct number of e-steps and temperature settings on all my spools and setting it on the LCD before starting a print so that i can use the same sliced model for multiple spools.

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nebbian

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o_lampe

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lloydy
Is the ArduinoMega not fast enough?

It is definitely the first bottleneck you will encounter, when you have your printer tuned and try to print faster. Circles are the worst.
Any 32bit controller will do, but IMHO Duet boards with DC42s firmware are best for deltas.
-Olaf

Don't drink the kool-aid.

Marlin/Ramps works fine and makes lovely circles.

There are way more effective ways to upgrade the machine, imo.

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hacker

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Tha_Reaper
Because i can change esteps on the fly with the LCD without the need for reslicing. For some reason, when i change the flow setting to 80 (i assume this is 80%) with the LCD, nothing comes out of the nozzle anymore, so i'm not sure that setting does whats it's supposed to do (or that i understand how it works for all i know...)
I was planning on just writing the correct number of e-steps and temperature settings on all my spools and setting it on the LCD before starting a print so that i can use the same sliced model for multiple spools.

Sounds like a reason. Not sure about setting flow on the LCD which I don't have, I haven't played with that even the browser (you're on the duet, right?). I change it in the slicer.

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Tha_Reaper

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hacker

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Tha_Reaper
Because i can change esteps on the fly with the LCD without the need for reslicing. For some reason, when i change the flow setting to 80 (i assume this is 80%) with the LCD, nothing comes out of the nozzle anymore, so i'm not sure that setting does whats it's supposed to do (or that i understand how it works for all i know...)
I was planning on just writing the correct number of e-steps and temperature settings on all my spools and setting it on the LCD before starting a print so that i can use the same sliced model for multiple spools.

Sounds like a reason. Not sure about setting flow on the LCD which I don't have, I haven't played with that even the browser (you're on the duet, right?). I change it in the slicer.

I'm on the good old ramps here. IMO 32 bit is needed for really fast and complex printing... If I print complex models, I print it slow. And if I print fast, there are not much curves in that model

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hacker

Isn't everything a curve on delta?

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nebbian

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o_lampe

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lloydy
Is the ArduinoMega not fast enough?

It is definitely the first bottleneck you will encounter, when you have your printer tuned and try to print faster. Circles are the worst.
Any 32bit controller will do, but IMHO Duet boards with DC42s firmware are best for deltas.
-Olaf

Don't drink the kool-aid.

Marlin/Ramps works fine and makes lovely circles.

There are way more effective ways to upgrade the machine, imo.

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Tha_Reaper
Well this is new.... i have been happily printing ABS at 230 degrees with my 104 esteps for the extruder...
I bought 2 new spools of ABS and i had to change the temperature to 250 degrees... not that weird.... but i also had to change the esteps to 84 before it started to print remotely decent. I really have no idea whats going on. i measured the diameter of the filament, and its slightly bigger (1.83mm vs the 1.72mm of my old filament), but thats not enough to explain the 20% difference in e-steps. I'm still far from happy with the result by the way. could be really bad filament, or something else is going on.

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GrAndAG
I've never blowing to my RAMP and it's still ok. Yes, I know, it's not capable to provide enough current for heated bed, I checked it - on full ratio (255) the polyfuse gets hot and just slowly stops working after a while. With 100/255 PWM it works without any issue, but temperature can reach 65C only. So, I wired the bed through Solid State Relay and my RAMPS is absolutely cold, heat-sinks on stepper drivers are the most hot parts, and even they are easily touchable by fingers.

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gkr
Hello GrAndAG,

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GrAndAG

Hmm... Tried both 1.1.7 and 1.2.9. And could not find any significant differences in printing results. Both of them produce good g-code.

Do you mind posting a dump of the "full" Slic3r config from your 1.1.7 setup?

I would like to compare a few things with what I have.

Much appreciated.

Regards.

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GrAndAG
I've never blowing to my RAMP and it's still ok. Yes, I know, it's not capable to provide enough current for heated bed, I checked it - on full ratio (255) the polyfuse gets hot and just slowly stops working after a while. With 100/255 PWM it works without any issue, but temperature can reach 65C only. So, I wired the bed through Solid State Relay and my RAMPS is absolutely cold, heat-sinks on stepper drivers are the most hot parts, and even they are easily touchable by fingers.

BTW, from my observation, it prints faster (no noticeable slow downs at random places) if it prints directly from SD-card, not from USB port.

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DRTak
Have to ask this question again.

When I home after I first power up my machine, the Y tower carriage crashes into the endstop. It keeps ramming itself into the y endstop and wont stop. I have to hit emergency stop . Then wait. Hit HOME again. It rams itself back into the carriage. Maybe after 5min of waiting, ALL carriages hit their appropriate endstops. Then it HOMES normally.

Any ideas why my machine would do that?

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lucawow
Many thanks to all for your advice, You're all very polite, but I before make my next moove i have to clear my head.. I have this kind of rod arms from SIntron:

Rod Arms

I believe they are ok maybe the problem could be on my effector, the original one provide with sintron, that doesn't work well with rod arms? In my attachments you will se what I mean.

Thanks again

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hacker

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DRTak
Have to ask this question again.

When I home after I first power up my machine, the Y tower carriage crashes into the endstop. It keeps ramming itself into the y endstop and wont stop. I have to hit emergency stop . Then wait. Hit HOME again. It rams itself back into the carriage. Maybe after 5min of waiting, ALL carriages hit their appropriate endstops. Then it HOMES normally.

Any ideas why my machine would do that?

What do you mean "it rams itself back into the carriage"? Anyway, I had problem similar to that, but that was specific to my own screwup which was the contact of one of the endstop wires… Check how well it works using M119… (don't just rely on the led lighting up). Of course you may have different problem…

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
Have to ask this question again.

When I home after I first power up my machine, the Y tower carriage crashes into the endstop. It keeps ramming itself into the y endstop and wont stop. I have to hit emergency stop . Then wait. Hit HOME again. It rams itself back into the carriage. Maybe after 5min of waiting, ALL carriages hit their appropriate endstops. Then it HOMES normally.

Any ideas why my machine would do that?

What do you mean "it rams itself back into the carriage"? Anyway, I had problem similar to that, but that was specific to my own screwup which was the contact of one of the endstop wires… Check how well it works using M119… (don't just rely on the led lighting up). Of course you may have different problem…

Well what happens is, the Y tower carriage goes up to the endstop but doesnt stop. It just tries to keep going up. It goes up so far that the belt starts to slip because it can go any higher. When I test with M119 it says STOPPED. But for some reason it wants to keep going up. I have a duet and I have changed the ground to power and vice versa for the Y endstop leads but this does not fix the issue.

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hacker

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
Have to ask this question again.

When I home after I first power up my machine, the Y tower carriage crashes into the endstop. It keeps ramming itself into the y endstop and wont stop. I have to hit emergency stop . Then wait. Hit HOME again. It rams itself back into the carriage. Maybe after 5min of waiting, ALL carriages hit their appropriate endstops. Then it HOMES normally.

Any ideas why my machine would do that?

What do you mean "it rams itself back into the carriage"? Anyway, I had problem similar to that, but that was specific to my own screwup which was the contact of one of the endstop wires… Check how well it works using M119… (don't just rely on the led lighting up). Of course you may have different problem…

Well what happens is, the Y tower carriage goes up to the endstop but doesnt stop. It just tries to keep going up. It goes up so far that the belt starts to slip because it can go any higher. When I test with M119 it says STOPPED. But for some reason it wants to keep going up. I have a duet and I have changed the ground to power and vice versa for the Y endstop leads but this does not fix the issue.

I was confused by the wording, thought it does something different…

M119 normally says "at max stop" or "not stopped". I assume by "stopped" you mean "at max stop". In which case it may be something with your "homedelta.g"? but then I don't quite understand why would it finally home alright… I'd start with manually invoking homedelta.g commands, maybe axis by axis… But I assume dc42 is the one who can give you meaningful advice…

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Sir_Death
@DRTak:

Sounds to me you have some kind of contact-problem, self-healing when the machine is warm.
Check all the soldering Points for this endstop, check all the connectors, eventually endstop-switch is damaged - do you have a spare one to check? - or exchange with another towers endstop - by doing this part by part and watching, if the error goes with the part or stays at the tower, you may find the faulty contact/part...

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Sir_Death
@DRTak:

Sounds to me you have some kind of contact-problem, self-healing when the machine is warm.
Check all the soldering Points for this endstop, check all the connectors, eventually endstop-switch is damaged - do you have a spare one to check? - or exchange with another towers endstop - by doing this part by part and watching, if the error goes with the part or stays at the tower, you may find the faulty contact/part...

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DRTak

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Sir_Death
@DRTak:

Sounds to me you have some kind of contact-problem, self-healing when the machine is warm.
Check all the soldering Points for this endstop, check all the connectors, eventually endstop-switch is damaged - do you have a spare one to check? - or exchange with another towers endstop - by doing this part by part and watching, if the error goes with the part or stays at the tower, you may find the faulty contact/part...

Did all of the above. Repleaced the y endstop wires with new set. Replaced endstop with spare Sintron one. Still have ramming issue. Very odd.

I decided to install a new line of code for the homing function. I made it go slow for the last 170mm. So first line of code was S1 X150 Y150 Z150 3500, Second line was S1 X170 Y170 Z170 1000

That way when it gets close to the top, the carriages slow down to make good contact with the endstops. It kinda helps. Still rams into the endstop at first boot. But it appears that the extra line of code helps the issue to self resolve faster that without it.

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DRTak

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Sir_Death
@DRTak:

Sounds to me you have some kind of contact-problem, self-healing when the machine is warm.
Check all the soldering Points for this endstop, check all the connectors, eventually endstop-switch is damaged - do you have a spare one to check? - or exchange with another towers endstop - by doing this part by part and watching, if the error goes with the part or stays at the tower, you may find the faulty contact/part...

Did all of the above. Repleaced the y endstop wires with new set. Replaced endstop with spare Sintron one. Still have ramming issue. Very odd.

I decided to install a new line of code for the homing function. I made it go slow for the last 170mm. So first line of code was S1 X150 Y150 Z150 3500, Second line was S1 X170 Y170 Z170 1000

That way when it gets close to the top, the carriages slow down to make good contact with the endstops. It kinda helps. Still rams into the endstop at first boot. But it appears that the extra line of code helps the issue to self resolve faster that without it.

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DRTak
Very true. What I do when the machine is off, I manually pull the effector to zero. Then turn the machine on. then let it home. So it can go the whole distance of towers. But Im still lost as to why it would do that.

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DRTak

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Sir_Death
@DRTak:

Sounds to me you have some kind of contact-problem, self-healing when the machine is warm.
Check all the soldering Points for this endstop, check all the connectors, eventually endstop-switch is damaged - do you have a spare one to check? - or exchange with another towers endstop - by doing this part by part and watching, if the error goes with the part or stays at the tower, you may find the faulty contact/part...

Did all of the above. Repleaced the y endstop wires with new set. Replaced endstop with spare Sintron one. Still have ramming issue. Very odd.

I decided to install a new line of code for the homing function. I made it go slow for the last 170mm. So first line of code was S1 X150 Y150 Z150 3500, Second line was S1 X170 Y170 Z170 1000

That way when it gets close to the top, the carriages slow down to make good contact with the endstops. It kinda helps. Still rams into the endstop at first boot. But it appears that the extra line of code helps the issue to self resolve faster that without it.