Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 02:48AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 5,232 |
Anonymous User
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 04:40AM |
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hacker
Hmm… My homedelta.g has "G1 S1 X360 Y360 Z360 F2500" which significantly slower than 3500.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 04:42AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 255 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 08:23AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 104 |
I depends on model to print. I.e. this well known one is 13cm tall, and prints in less than 2 hours.Quote
hacker
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Sir_Death
Only Restriction from this is: 10mm lower max printable Height.... - I don't care.
As if otherwise I would have a patience to print something 20cm high ;-)
Anonymous User
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 09:13AM |
I'm on Sintron's RAMPS and Marlin too - only Firmware changed (moved to Rich Cattels and now on to Marlin 1.1.0 RC3)Quote
GrAndAG
I never had a problem with homing. But I'm still on Sintron's RAMPS and Marlin. Looked in the settings and discovered that the default initial homing speed (when all carriages move up together) in Marlin is set to 8313.6mm/min (odd number, it's 1.732*80*60), then carriages individually do first touch on speed 4800 (80*60), and final touch speed is 1/10th of previous (480, or 80*60/10). And enstops are capable to catch carriages even on initial homing speed.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 09:13AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 255 |
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GrAndAG
I never had a problem with homing. But I'm still on Sintron's RAMPS and Marlin. Looked in the settings and discovered that the default initial homing speed (when all carriages move up together) in Marlin is set to 8313.6mm/min (odd number, it's 1.732*80*60), then carriages individually do first touch on speed 4800 (80*60), and final touch speed is 1/10th of previous (480, or 80*60/10). And enstops are capable to catch carriages even on initial homing speed.
I depends on model to print. I.e. this well known one is 13cm tall, and prints in less than 2 hours.Quote
hacker
Quote
Sir_Death
Only Restriction from this is: 10mm lower max printable Height.... - I don't care.
As if otherwise I would have a patience to print something 20cm high ;-)
The longest print which I did till now, was a bit more than 8 hours.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 10:57AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
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dc42
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DRTak
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Sir_Death
@DRTak:
Sounds to me you have some kind of contact-problem, self-healing when the machine is warm.
Check all the soldering Points for this endstop, check all the connectors, eventually endstop-switch is damaged - do you have a spare one to check? - or exchange with another towers endstop - by doing this part by part and watching, if the error goes with the part or stays at the tower, you may find the faulty contact/part...
Did all of the above. Repleaced the y endstop wires with new set. Replaced endstop with spare Sintron one. Still have ramming issue. Very odd.
I decided to install a new line of code for the homing function. I made it go slow for the last 170mm. So first line of code was S1 X150 Y150 Z150 3500, Second line was S1 X170 Y170 Z170 1000
That way when it gets close to the top, the carriages slow down to make good contact with the endstops. It kinda helps. Still rams into the endstop at first boot. But it appears that the extra line of code helps the issue to self resolve faster that without it.
I've only just noticed that you are talking about Duet electronics. Here's what I suggest:
The usual cause of motors not stopping during homing is that the motors and endstops do not correspond, for example because the X and Y endstop wires are swapped. So try the following test:
1. Test the endstop switches individually using M119, making sure that it reports "at max stop" for the correct switch when you press it.
2. With the motors off, slowly push the carriages up to the endstops and make sure that each carriage triggers the switch reliably (as confirmed using M119) before it jams against the switch body. If you are using wheeled carriages, make sure they cannot rotate to as to avoid triggering the switch.
3. Test the motors individually to make sure that commands to the XYZ motors move the correct motor. For example, if you place all the carriages 10mm below the endstops, then sending G91 followed by G1 S1 X20 F500 should move the X carriage up 20mm, butg it should stop at the endstop. Again, make sure it is the correct motor that moves.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 12:09PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 104 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 02:21PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 03:34PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 104 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 04:29PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 3 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 04:39PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
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chris81
Hi all,
I now followed this thread till here and got some valuable information along the way. I also built a Sintron Kossel here, but went for the Duet 0.8.5 board from the start (Sintron did not accept my request to ship the kit without their IMHO crappy electronics).
What can I say until now:
Duet is not cheap but probably worth the money, as the RAMPS hardware issues I read about are non-existent. The firmware is great (hi DC42) and it essentially "just works".
About the Sintron kit: I am currently working on fixing the two major issues for me: the stock metal diagonal rods as well as the effector. Both problems have been mentioned here already: the rods are binding and the effector is not 40mm wide but 38,x instead, resulting in a small effector tilt.
I already ordered carbon rods as well as traxxas joints and will reprint the effector as soon as I can be sure it will print within some accuracy margins.
Also, the hotend gave me some headache at the beginning: it was clogged with PLA rather quickly and I had to disassemble it completely. I used this chance to get rid of the PTFE tube inside the heat break and drilled the top of the break to a 3mm diameter. Since then I can print and for a printer that was not calibrated with autolevel, I have to say I'm quite satisfied. I am now waiting for my new parts to arrive and expect an improved build quality and fewer problems.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 06:31PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 104 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 14, 2016 06:32PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 03:04AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 5,232 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 06:04AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
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GrAndAG
DRTak,
RAMPS uses 1-3 scheme (in your classification) for endstop wiring. The 4th wire (red in original cable) is used to light up the indicator LED on endstop PCB, and generally can be not wired without affecting endstop functionality.
The schematics of endstop (inputs numbering on the scheme is reversed in comparison with your post above):
[attachment 69772 Mech_Endstop-F.png]
Maybe for Duet all 3 wires have to be connected for proper operations: black to GND, red to +, yellow to signal pin.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 12:08PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
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GrAndAG
Ok, I'm not an electronics engineer, I have just basic understandings from school I graduated an ages ago. But I would like to understand how endstop works actually.
So, assuming the schematics above is correct (wires are colored (on endstop end) as: red - VCC (+), black - GND and yellow - signal).
The cases:
1) All 3 wires are correctly (+ to +, GND to GND, signal to signal) connected to Duet board. No pull-something resistors are enabled (M574 Y0). In this case all should work, as switch just simply connects VCC or GND to signal.
2) Only 2 wires are correctly connected (GND to GND, signal to signal), VCC is not connected. In this case the Duet pull-up resistor should be enabled (M574 Y2 S0). Otherwise the input will be "floating" until switch is pressed, so, the behavior of non-triggered switch is unpredictable.
3) All 3 wires are correctly (+ to +, GND to GND, signal to signal) wired. And pull-up resistor is enabled (M574 Y2).In this case we have 2 pull-up resistors in parallel, what leads to reduced total resistance. And when the switch is triggered, the current can be higher then safe limit, so it could be interprets as short, and the board could switch itself off. (Maybe it's one of DRTak's cases). All should work as in case 1).
4) All 3 wires are correctly (+ to +, GND to GND, signal to signal) wired. And, in this time, the pull-down resistor is enabled (M574 Y1). All should work as in case 1).
5) Only 2 wires are correctly connected (+ to +, signal to signal), GND is not connected. no resistors, or pull-up resistor is enabled. Will not work, as the input will be always "1".
6) Only 2 wires are correctly connected (+ to +, signal to signal), GND is not connected. Pull-down resistor is enabled. In this case we have voltage divider if switch is triggered. In ideal case (if endstop pull-up an board pull-down resistors are equivalent) it's 1/2 of VCC, which is not logical "0" nor "1". The state of input can be any. Non-workable wiring in general. (Maybe it's another of DRTak's cases). [UPD] Again forgot that there is LED's resistor. So, the level should still be "almost 1" if switch is triggered.
As result, I see 4 workable wiring and pull-something resistor configurations:
1) 3 wires, correct connection. No pull-something resistors. "0" level will mean triggered.
2) 2 wires (GND to GND, signal to signal). Pull-up resistor. "0" level will mean triggered.
3) 2 wires (endstop GND to board VCC(+) (Yes! ), signal to signal). Pull-down resistor. "1" level will mean triggered.
4) 3 wires, incorrect connection, VCC and GND are swapped (GND to VCC(+), VCC(+) to GND, signal to signal). No pull-something resistors. "1" level will mean triggered. Endstop LED will not work though.
Please correct me if I made mistakes.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 12:38PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 1 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 03:04PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 03:22PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
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o_lampe
Could you please start a new topic with all these duet migration problems? It starts to get messy here....
@DRTak it is obvious to me, your duet board has connectivity problems.
Check the board for cold solder or broken traces, don't mess around with different endstop wiring. You only risk to damage your board even more.
THX
-Olaf
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 07:18PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
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DRTak
...
Nice permutation. Here is the result.
1) 3 wires, correct connection. No pull-something resistors. "0" level will mean triggered.
Three wires connected as dc42 mentioned results in NO LED lights on for the stepper motor on the duet or duex4. However, when the endstop is triggered, the system reboots and the other red LED lights are on. Also ALL the orange LED lights are on on the duex4. NO stepper motor lights turn on for the duet when the endstop is triggered. When the endstop is released the system shuts off (all of my fans on the effector shut off).
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 15, 2016 07:29PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
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dc42
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DRTak
...
Nice permutation. Here is the result.
1) 3 wires, correct connection. No pull-something resistors. "0" level will mean triggered.
Three wires connected as dc42 mentioned results in NO LED lights on for the stepper motor on the duet or duex4. However, when the endstop is triggered, the system reboots and the other red LED lights are on. Also ALL the orange LED lights are on on the duex4. NO stepper motor lights turn on for the duet when the endstop is triggered. When the endstop is released the system shuts off (all of my fans on the effector shut off).
Then either there is a short on your Duet, or your endstop board does not match the schematic here [forums.reprap.org]. As the fault goes away after a while, I'm leaning to the view that you have a a short on or near the Duet endstop connector that clears when the board heats up, probably between the STP pin and ground. Some suggestions:
1. If you swap over the X and Y endstop connectors on the Duet, does the problem move to the X tower endstop switch (which should show up as Y triggered in M119), or does it stay on the Y switch (which should show up as X triggered in M119)?
2. Use a multimeter to check the resistance between STP and GND, and between STP and 3V3 when the board is cold and un-powered (including from USB ) and the endstop disconnected.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 12:41PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 319 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 03:15PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 41 |
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GrAndAG
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gkr
Hello GrAndAG,
Do you mind posting a dump of the "full" Slic3r config from your 1.1.7 setup?Quote
GrAndAG
Hmm... Tried both 1.1.7 and 1.2.9. And could not find any significant differences in printing results. Both of them produce good g-code.
I would like to compare a few things with what I have.
Much appreciated.
Regards.
Configs for both Slic3r versions are attached (they are almost identical).
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 03:30PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 138 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 03:47PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 255 |
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gkr
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GrAndAG
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gkr
Hello GrAndAG,
Do you mind posting a dump of the "full" Slic3r config from your 1.1.7 setup?Quote
GrAndAG
Hmm... Tried both 1.1.7 and 1.2.9. And could not find any significant differences in printing results. Both of them produce good g-code.
I would like to compare a few things with what I have.
Much appreciated.
Regards.
Configs for both Slic3r versions are attached (they are almost identical).
Hello GrAndAG (or anyone else):
What E-steps value are you guys using?
Currently, I have it as 110:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {79, 79, 79, 110}
But, I'm thinking that might be too high, and it's trying to force too much filament through the nozzle, than the nozzle can handle. So, suddenly midway thru the print, I see that the extrusion stops (especially on long prints). I think originally Sintron had it at 95.
Wondering what values you guys are using?
Thanks,
Ganesh
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 04:05PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 41 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 04:10PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 89 |
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 04:11PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 255 |
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gkr
Hello Hacker,
Can you please describe the process you are using to measure the E-Steps?
Regards.
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit January 16, 2016 05:52PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 41 |