Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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Levon
Yesterday night I printed this fish, all is done pretty well, I was even able to separate the links with not much of force applied.

I like the design and I've printed mine instance.


It's moving absolutely freely (as on video) just after I removed it from the bed. No need cleaning or any force.

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dc42

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DRTak
I have used the roofing tape on the bottom. I also put a layer of kapton tape on the bottom. An additional layer of black electrical tape. This helped. But Im almost thinking I need to use ?cork as well. Im afraid of cardboard. I already had my fire issue with the ramps electronics (thus my upgarde to duet). I dont want to add paper to the bottom of a heatbed.

With the Duet, you can safely increase the power supply voltage to increase the heating power. If you are using a Chinese LED power supply, there will be a potentiometer at one end of the terminal block to adjust the voltage. Try 13V, and if you want more heat then 14V. Don't go above 14V without putting some silicon diodes in series with the fans to drop the voltage back to about 12V. For safety, disconnect the Duet before adjusting the pot.

Thanks for the input. Ill try that.

Btw if you have the electronics under the bed, then you must have cork or similar insulation between them anyway, to prevent the bed heater cooking the electronics.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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GrAndAG

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Levon
Yesterday night I printed this fish, all is done pretty well, I was even able to separate the links with not much of force applied.

I like the design and I've printed mine instance.
[attachment 71496 20160202_191449_crop.jpg]

It's moving absolutely freely (as on video) just after I removed it from the bed. No need cleaning or any force.

Very nice print! Yup, your printer is much more precise than mine.
Hm...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2016 05:26AM by Levon.

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dc42
Btw if you have the electronics under the bed, then you must have cork or similar insulation between them anyway, to prevent the bed heater cooking the electronics.

After my RAMPS fire incident. I no longer put my electronics below. I have it on top now. Rarely do I see people do this. I have included pictures. I like it on top because its easy to fix the wiring and see what is going on. Before, I had to turn the unit upside down and check. Now I dont have that issue. I also like it because all the wiring goes to the top in one location. I also have a particle board "enclosure." This was the easiest idea for me. Before I had a 2' wide x 2' deep x 3' high box. But it was too big and I couldnt fit it in the space I made for the Kossel in the corner of my room. So I made this 1/2 enclosure. It works for warming up the heatbed. And the electronics on top get enough air.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2016 03:39PM by DRTak.

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DRTak
I have included pictures.

The black bed is beautiful!

I also want to include pictures…



and



…these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere?

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DRTak

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dc42
Btw if you have the electronics under the bed, then you must have cork or similar insulation between them anyway, to prevent the bed heater cooking the electronics.

After my RAMPS fire incident. I no longer put my electronics below. I have it on top now. Rarely do I see people do this. I have included pictures. I like it on top because its easy to fix the wiring and see what is going on. Before, I had to turn the unit upside down and check. Now I dont have that issue. I also like it because all the wiring goes to the top in one location. I also have a particle board "enclosure." This was the easiest idea for me. Before I had a 2' wide x 2' deep x 3' high box. But it was too big and I couldnt fit it in the space I made for the Kossel in the corner of my room. So I made this 1/2 enclosure. It works for warming up the heatbed. And the electronics on top get enough air.

Bona nit:
People are working on it, see [www.thingiverse.com]
they also have a box for the electronics with a fan ( I have bought one of this from them) that you can fit on your stucture where you want and that is for me a very good solution for these issues.

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Levon

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Sir_Death
Hi Levon,

I had very similar Problems, when my belts were not tensioned enough.
After some weeks in tensioned condition, they got little bit loose. I gave them more tension and included springs like theese Thingiverse
Position of the springs - directly underneath the carriages

Hehe funny idea, I'll give it a try. And yes I guess they got loose a little bit, might be exactly the reason.
Will let you know that improves the quality.

Thank you!

Bon dia:
this one is even better
[www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 02:42PM by fruscus.

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hacker

…these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere?

Hey hacker, I'm far from giving professional advise since I'm just starting my 3d printing hobby myself, but thinking just technically I would maybe check the carriages and rollers since the defects iteration is rather might be connected with rollers rotation and goes all along the Z axis...
Maybe I'm totally wrong, but I would carefully inspect rollers and the towers where they run. Rather rollers, because the artefacts are so periodic.

Added: And steppers pulleys!!! Check if screwed properly

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 07:20AM by Levon.

With belts, pulleys and damaged rollers you can't produce horizontal artifacts.

Is it printed in vase mode?
My best guess is extruder under extrusion from skipping/slipping at a certain point of the drive gear. Or even PID hysteresis from the hotend?
-Olaf

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 09:14AM by o_lampe.

Thanks guys,

it is not a vase mode, it's a part with quite some perimeters — [www.thingiverse.com] — It's an interesting idea with hotend PID, though I do think the temperature seemed pretty stable, but I will try to watch out more closely next time.

I was thinking of idler pulley of the belt that is just a couple of bearing and belt is toothed, why do you think it can't produce horizontal artefacts given that the part's diameter is pretty small? (Makes me think of trying wider cylinder…)

I doubt it's damaged roller, because at the very least all three carriages would have to have the same damage?

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hacker

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DRTak
I have included pictures.

The black bed is beautiful!

I also want to include pictures…

[attachment 71740 IMG_0854.jpg]

and

[attachment 71741 IMG_0855.jpg]

…these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere?

Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those marks. LOL. At least its all even and smooth.

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
I have included pictures.

The black bed is beautiful!

I also want to include pictures…

[attachment 71740 IMG_0854.jpg]

and

[attachment 71741 IMG_0855.jpg]

…these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere?

Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those marks. LOL. At least its all even and smooth.

I do accept them. ;-) Also transparent PETG is not the most forgiving material, but I just thought it's interesting to find out the cause.

Well with my new setup I had my first hiccup. I enclosed the PSU inside of my enclosure. I think it got too hot in there. The entire system shut down after 30min. After I took the cover off, the system auto rebooted itself. I tried a smaller print that only took 19min and this didnt happen. When I tried to print something that was supposed to take 1hr, at the 30min mark it shut down. So doing another test print (one hr long) with the PSU outside of the enclosure. It worked but the system shut down right after the print. I checked it out and its the PSU itself is having issues. I think the solder joints are bad in the Sintron PSU. I resoldered the inputs. I have reattached a pic of my setup in case my wording is confusing.

I also increased the voltage on the POT from 12v to 14.1v per Dc42 suggestion. This does help speed up heat time.

After resoldering the input to the PSU, I have successfully printed out multiple items without issues. I am going to leave the PSu outside of the enclsure from now on

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 02:37PM by DRTak.

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hacker

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
I have included pictures.

The black bed is beautiful!

I also want to include pictures…

[attachment 71740 IMG_0854.jpg]

and

[attachment 71741 IMG_0855.jpg]

…these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere?

Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those marks. LOL. At least its all even and smooth.

I do accept them. ;-) Also transparent PETG is not the most forgiving material, but I just thought it's interesting to find out the cause.

Thanks hacker re: the black bed.

I have a question. I just used the last spool of ABS. I am no longer going to use abs. I have a good idea now of how to use PLA. I have a large spool of PETG. I want to go along your route of only using PETG. Currently my hotened is set for 218deg C, The hotbed is set at 100. Im going to try maybe 85 or 90. What are your settings for PETG.

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
I have included pictures.

The black bed is beautiful!

I also want to include pictures…

[attachment 71740 IMG_0854.jpg]

and

[attachment 71741 IMG_0855.jpg]

…these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere?

Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those marks. LOL. At least its all even and smooth.

I do accept them. ;-) Also transparent PETG is not the most forgiving material, but I just thought it's interesting to find out the cause.

Thanks hacker re: the black bed.

I have a question. I just used the last spool of ABS. I am no longer going to use abs. I have a good idea now of how to use PLA. I have a large spool of PETG. I want to go along your route of only using PETG. Currently my hotened is set for 218deg C, The hotbed is set at 100. Im going to try maybe 85 or 90. What are your settings for PETG.

I didn't go the route of only using PETG I'm using PLA as well. My settings for PETG are bed at 80 and hotend at 250 (I have e3dv6 hotend). You can go lower, just pick appropriate speed. My PETG spool is marked 230-250. (This is my first spool of PETG, but I definitely will buy more).

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hacker

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
I have included pictures.

The black bed is beautiful!

I also want to include pictures…

[attachment 71740 IMG_0854.jpg]

and

[attachment 71741 IMG_0855.jpg]

…these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere?

Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those marks. LOL. At least its all even and smooth.

I do accept them. ;-) Also transparent PETG is not the most forgiving material, but I just thought it's interesting to find out the cause.

Thanks hacker re: the black bed.

I have a question. I just used the last spool of ABS. I am no longer going to use abs. I have a good idea now of how to use PLA. I have a large spool of PETG. I want to go along your route of only using PETG. Currently my hotened is set for 218deg C, The hotbed is set at 100. Im going to try maybe 85 or 90. What are your settings for PETG.

I didn't go the route of only using PETG I'm using PLA as well. My settings for PETG are bed at 80 and hotend at 250 (I have e3dv6 hotend). You can go lower, just pick appropriate speed. My PETG spool is marked 230-250. (This is my first spool of PETG, but I definitely will buy more).

Its my first spool too. I tried 220 hotend and 95 hotbed. The adhesion was better but the print at 220 didnt look right. I increased it to 230 hotend and downgraded the bed to 80. Print looks better. I then tried 240 hotend and 80 hotbed. The print looks so much better.

I also have the sintron E3D hotend and/or clone. Whatever SIntron includes in their kit.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2016 08:38PM by DRTak.

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DRTak
I also have the sintron E3D hotend and/or clone. Whatever SIntron includes in their kit.

What I meant to say is that I have e3d e3d. And I mention that because I don't know what's the temperature limit for sintron's hotend and if it's allowed to go as far as 250.

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hacker

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DRTak
I also have the sintron E3D hotend and/or clone. Whatever SIntron includes in their kit.

What I meant to say is that I have e3d e3d. And I mention that because I don't know what's the temperature limit for sintron's hotend and if it's allowed to go as far as 250.

It's all-metal, I've had mine up to 255 before now.

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nebbian

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hacker

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DRTak
I also have the sintron E3D hotend and/or clone. Whatever SIntron includes in their kit.

What I meant to say is that I have e3d e3d. And I mention that because I don't know what's the temperature limit for sintron's hotend and if it's allowed to go as far as 250.

It's all-metal, I've had mine up to 255 before now.

I think it has to do with how far down the PTFE tube goes, I don't remember how sintron hotend is built. But I do take your word on that ;-)

The PTFE tube butts up against the top of the heatbreak. So it goes down as far as the bottom of the heatsink in the cold part.

I've had my hotend apart before, there was no evidence of melting/burning/discolouration on the tube. So I think it's pretty safe, as long as your hotend fan keeps going.

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nebbian
The PTFE tube butts up against the top of the heatbreak. So it goes down as far as the bottom of the heatsink in the cold part.

I've had my hotend apart before, there was no evidence of melting/burning/discolouration on the tube. So I think it's pretty safe, as long as your hotend fan keeps going.

Sounds like it can go close to 300 then, right?

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hacker

Sounds like it can go close to 300 then, right?

I wouldn't go that high, most I'd go would be 265. But then again I scare easily

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 09:41AM by nebbian.

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nebbian

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hacker

Sounds like it can go close to 300 then, right?

I wouldn't go that high, most I'd go would be 265. But then again I scare easily

Theoretically, I mean ;-) I think I only heated it up to 290 or even 295 for hot-tightening, but I did try printing PETG at 270 for the speed sake and it worked ;-) Of course it also depends on heatsink cooling (as I said I used original e3d with the original fan shroud).

At any rate, there's no good reason to go that high with materials I have tried so far.

On the E3D website they say going above 300 will damage the thermistor, I think people use thermocouples for sensing above that.

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Zedsquared
On the E3D website they say going above 300 will damage the thermistor, I think people use thermocouples for sensing above that.

True. Hence "close to 300".

Hi guys.

Bed levelling issue. I'm still on manual levelling and trying to do my best to level it with M666. X and Y towers work flawlessly, but for Z, whatever number I put it doesn't change anything.
For instance: M666 X-2.6 Y-1.5 Z-1.6 and M666 X-2.6 Y-1.5 Z-50 are absolutely identical and do not change Z offset... Is there some kind of offset lock or something like that in the Marlin firmware?

Best,
Levon

Update: Sorry guys, found the solution, who ever faces that problem: the link

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/12/2016 05:32AM by Levon.

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hacker

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nebbian

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hacker

Sounds like it can go close to 300 then, right?

I wouldn't go that high, most I'd go would be 265. But then again I scare easily

Theoretically, I mean ;-) I think I only heated it up to 290 or even 295 for hot-tightening, but I did try printing PETG at 270 for the speed sake and it worked ;-) Of course it also depends on heatsink cooling (as I said I used original e3d with the original fan shroud).

At any rate, there's no good reason to go that high with materials I have tried so far.

I checked the ebay listing that I used to buy the sintron printer and it says 260 max temp for the hotend. When I had ramps, it mistakenly went beyond that when the heatsink fan went off. It melted the internal PTFE tubing. So I guess that is the limit (the ptfe tubing) as stated in this thread a little bit above.

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DRTak

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hacker

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nebbian

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hacker

Sounds like it can go close to 300 then, right?

I wouldn't go that high, most I'd go would be 265. But then again I scare easily

Theoretically, I mean ;-) I think I only heated it up to 290 or even 295 for hot-tightening, but I did try printing PETG at 270 for the speed sake and it worked ;-) Of course it also depends on heatsink cooling (as I said I used original e3d with the original fan shroud).

At any rate, there's no good reason to go that high with materials I have tried so far.

I checked the ebay listing that I used to buy the sintron printer and it says 260 max temp for the hotend. When I had ramps, it mistakenly went beyond that when the heatsink fan went off. It melted the internal PTFE tubing. So I guess that is the limit (the ptfe tubing) as stated in this thread a little bit above.

Now that I think of it, with original sintron setup I'd be cautious even going that high, but after adding a better fan shround for heatsink fan perhaps one can go higher… So yes, with fan blowing from miles away with no shroud the whole cooling business is somewhat suspicious… But yes, even with fan shroud sintron hotend has a smaller diameter than e3d, so it probably doesn't do as well in heat dissipation.

Right now I have a a heatsink fan on full. I only heat my hotend to 240 for PETG and it works fine. I have a 2nd thermistor on the heatsink itself and it reads 100deg C. Still hot but not that bad. The heatsink shroud is made of ABS so well below the metling point of ABS.