Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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CrisCG
I don't understand why they ship those metal rods, if they know there are problems with them.

Nobody does… Actually, rods are okay, it's rod ends that are bad…

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2016 10:38AM by hacker.

Yes, strange. I sent them a message.

About the fan issue, maybe the fan is the problem. When i send M106 command, it wants to move, gets an impulse, like 1/10 of a turn or something, then stops.

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CrisCG
Yes, strange. I sent them a message.

About the fan issue, maybe the fan is the problem. When i send M106 command, it wants to move, gets an impulse, like 1/10 of a turn or something, then stops.

I think they sell it because it sells. Connect fan directly to 12V, this is where heatsink fan actually belongs.

It doesn't start when connected directly to 12V, i'll buy a another fan.

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CrisCG
It doesn't start when connected directly to 12V, i'll buy a another fan.

Poor thing. I hate it when you have just assembled that thing and can't run it because of a small part. I'd find something home that I can disassemble and get the fan ;-)

Bought another fan and it works.

But i managed to clog the nozzle in the first print. Great, how do i unclog it?

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CrisCG
Bought another fan and it works.

But i managed to clog the nozzle in the first print. Great, how do i unclog it?

That might be a consequence of not fanning the hotend… Probably you'll have to disassemble it. I normally do that using whatever my guts tell me, but I'm sure you can google up some well-established procedures for cleaning hotend.

Currently having an issue printing even over larger print areas. Seems like half my print's first few layers dont get extruded because some areas of the bed are too close to the nozzle, almost like the bed is 'slanted'. Is this a software calubration issue? The autolevel seems to work ok.

Thanks

yes, it is a calibration issue. in my case, the autolevel isn't very accurate. it is best to manually calibrate. i'm also trying to get a good calibration.

I managed to unclog the nozzle. i heated the bed up to 230 degrees, retracted the filament, cuted the piece, reinserted the filament, a big drop of PLA started to come out and it unclogged in the end, so it wasn't that bad. still printing cubes and trying to calibrate.

@dc32 i'm still trying to learn how to use you calculator correctly. maybe that would get me closer that i can manually.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2016 03:09PM by CrisCG.

Is there a how to for the manual calibration?

I think it could be that your probe actually has different height depending on the area of bed. This is, I understand, likely to be the result of mechanical imperfections. I think dc42 has given a great checklist of the things to check that may be fixed mechanically somewhere in this thread. Once you fail to attain perfection with that, you may want to adjust it in software, though I'm not sure how to do that in Marlin…

And sure you can probably fallback to manual.

i found a website that has a guide, here

first, enter the measurements like in this image. this will be your starting point.

then set the MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS in the firmware.

after that, i use the endstops offset to calibrate the z height near each of the 3 towers.

after calibrating near the towers and z height is good near them, check the center. move the extruder nozzle to g1 x0 y0 z0. if the extruder nozzle is above the printbed, to lower it, you need increase the DELTA_SMOOTH-ROD-OFFSET or if it wants to go lower that the 0 position you need to decrease the DELTA_SMOOTH-ROD-OFFSET, to raise the extruder nozzle.

after changing the DELTA_SMOOTH-ROD-OFFSET, this will affect the DELTA_RADIUS. So you have to start over with the calibration of the z height for the extruder nozzle, calibrate near the towers, then check again the z pos at g1 x0 y0 z0. The more you get closer to the perfect value, the flatter your surface will be. when you have the same printbed distance in all 4 points, near the 3 towers and in the center, you have a leveled printing surface.

be sure to enable EEPROM in marlin and upload, otherwise the m666 command for adjust the endstop offsets will not work.

You can also find more info in this video here

After having a leveled printing surface, you have to make sure, that the printer moves 1mm, when you give the command to move 1mm. you do this by adjusting the DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD.

Also, you can make more fine adjustments... see this video

Ofcourse, i'm still very new to 3d printing, please feel free to correct me if i said something wrong. This is how i understand the process, from everything i read online. I hope it helps.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2016 05:10PM by CrisCG.

You can use that method, but it's much slower than using my calculator, and it doesn't do tower position corrections. Your build needs to be very accurate to not need tower position corrections.

I've included brief instructions on the calculator page. I will leave it to others to write detailed instructions on how to use it with types of firmware that I don't use myself. If you are using Marlin then I think there is an extra complication because the firmware won't let you move to negative Z when you are trying to measure the height errors.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hello Experts,

Since the current topic appears to be related to calibration...

I never got the Auto-Z-Probe to work properly, and had a few instances when the z-probe unexpectedly engaged in the middle of a print.

So, when I switched over to the E3D Hot-end, I removed the Z-probe altogether, and ended up manually calibrating the print-bed (mounted on springs) as much as I could.

Now after getting the Extrusion and Retraction settings all golden, I'm getting very decent prints.

The other day when I was browsing thingiverse, I found this:

[www.thingiverse.com]

Has anyone tried the above by any chance on this Sintron setup?

BTW, I also saw some FSRs at my local Microcenter, so I picked them up. They had exactly 3 of them However, since I need to do quite a bit of work before that setup works, I have refrained from taking up that challenge yet.

Any comments are appreciated.

Regards.

Quote
gkr
Hello Experts,

Since the current topic appears to be related to calibration...

I never got the Auto-Z-Probe to work properly, and had a few instances when the z-probe unexpectedly engaged in the middle of a print.

So, when I switched over to the E3D Hot-end, I removed the Z-probe altogether, and ended up manually calibrating the print-bed (mounted on springs) as much as I could.

Now after getting the Extrusion and Retraction settings all golden, I'm getting very decent prints.

The other day when I was browsing thingiverse, I found this:

[www.thingiverse.com]

Has anyone tried the above by any chance on this Sintron setup?

I'm not an expert and haven't tried the above thing, but for Z-probe with bigger more robust allen key and E3D hotend I designed this — [www.thingiverse.com] — and it does work for me. I Don't think it's ever self-deplyed, the worst I had is it failed to retract, but that had to do with my reluctance to do something about the stable retraction post. ;-) Also, I don't remember if the original effector works with E3D hotend, I use this — [www.thingiverse.com] (but, although I don't remember anymore, I think the only difference is nut pockets and you don't really need it.

Quote
gkr
BTW, I also saw some FSRs at my local Microcenter, so I picked them up. They had exactly 3 of them However, since I need to do quite a bit of work before that setup works, I have refrained from taking up that challenge yet.

AFAIR, FSRs do not like heat. Regular FSR's usually can handle PLA temps (<60C), but nor more. They likely will not be damaged, but readings will be inaccurate.

Quote
gkr
Hello Experts,

Since the current topic appears to be related to calibration...

I never got the Auto-Z-Probe to work properly, and had a few instances when the z-probe unexpectedly engaged in the middle of a print.

So, when I switched over to the E3D Hot-end, I removed the Z-probe altogether, and ended up manually calibrating the print-bed (mounted on springs) as much as I could.

Now after getting the Extrusion and Retraction settings all golden, I'm getting very decent prints.

The other day when I was browsing thingiverse, I found this:

[www.thingiverse.com]

Has anyone tried the above by any chance on this Sintron setup?

BTW, I also saw some FSRs at my local Microcenter, so I picked them up. They had exactly 3 of them However, since I need to do quite a bit of work before that setup works, I have refrained from taking up that challenge yet.

Any comments are appreciated.

Regards.

I got my original Z probe to work. However, I did modify the plastic a little with a file to make things fit better. I was able to auto deploy and auto retract. I stopped using the auto deploy feature because I had a feeling it was loosening the Z belt when it was ramming the L probe part over and over to auto deploy. Multiply this by the number of prints I did in a day and I didnt want to take a chance. I also removed the plastic spring holder. It would get loose to often and lose tension on the spring.

If anyone is interested, I can ship it out to you in the USA for $10 (includes shipping). It is a direct fit for the original Sintron Effector. Just position it on the side that you want it to retract and attach. Then you will need to print out the auto retact block. But I was able to use a hex nut attached to the side of Kossel for auto retract. I have nuts attached to get it to the correct height off of the bed. It also is just enough height that when retracted, it will not interefere with touching the bed.

Quote
DRTak
I stopped using the auto deploy feature because I had a feeling it was loosening the Z belt when it was ramming the L probe part over and over to auto deploy. Multiply this by the number of prints I did in a day and I didnt want to take a chance. I also removed the plastic spring holder. It would get loose to often and lose tension on the spring.

I also didn't like the deployment sequence, hence [www.thingiverse.com]

I am unable to calibrate my printer, because of a hardware problem. Right now, for example, i have the carriage near the Z tower, and it's off on the Z axis by 0.7mm (it's hitting the print bed), then i move the carriage near the y tower, near the x tower, going to the center, or wherever i feel like, the move it again to near the Z tower, and it is no longer off by 0.7mm now it's 0.3mm off and it's not hitting the printbed, it's above it now. i don't understand what could be wrong. Has somebody experienced this?

Might this have anything to do with belt tension?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/20/2016 03:14PM by CrisCG.

Thank you for all your input/comments.

It is much appreciated.

Regards.

I think you are saying that the Z position at a point varies depending on the direction from which you approach the point. I can think of two main causes of that:

1. Backlash in the system. This can be caused by loose belts, loose joints, or the pulley slipping a little on the motor shaft. When the motors are energised, is the effector held rigidly in position, or can you move it from side to side a little?

2. Insufficient motor torque to overcome friction sufficiently. This could be caused by too little motor current, belts too tight, idler bearings too stiff, or carriages not running freely. When you jog the head position in steps of 0.05mm, does the head always respond by moving, or do you sometimes need to jog it more than once before it moves?

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thank you for your input. I found the problem. A corner, from the top of the frame, cracked and was moving just a tiny bit. The corner is at the back, the Z tower, so i couldn't see it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/21/2016 07:47AM by CrisCG.

anyone try printing with taulmann Bridge nylon on the kossel. I am going to buy some filament since I want an indestructable part. My kids break all of the PLA and ABS toys I make them.

Quote
DRTak
anyone try printing with taulmann Bridge nylon on the kossel. I am going to buy some filament since I want an indestructable part. My kids break all of the PLA and ABS toys I make them.

ABS can be cured with acetone to make it durable like LEGO.

Don't keep the acetone in kids range

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2016 01:50AM by o_lampe.

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o_lampe

Quote
DRTak
anyone try printing with taulmann Bridge nylon on the kossel. I am going to buy some filament since I want an indestructable part. My kids break all of the PLA and ABS toys I make them.

ABS can be cured with acetone to make it durable like LEGO.

Don't keep the acetone in kids range

I used up all of my abs cuz of the smell. I switched to PETG. I found a blog that describes the settings and now Im impressed with the quality of PETG. Bed adhesion is way better than PLA to straight glass. But I only have one roll. Went online to buy another roll. There is a glut of it. Something legal must have happened. There used to be 100's of places that sold them on ebay for cheap. Now there are only 2 and they are all in china and the price went up 40%?

Hi everybody. Here's a video of what happens with the Sintron supplied rods, the ends rub against each other -> Click here. Sintron support insists that they don't interfere.

Those steel rods have a lot of play, they're not as stiff as the carbon tube + traxxas ends, wich i recently switched to.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2016 08:28AM by CrisCG.

Quote
CrisCG
Hi everybody. Here's a video of what happens with the Sintron supplied rods, the ends rub against each other -> Click here. Sintron support insists that they don't interfere.

Those steel rods have a lot of play, they're not as stiff as the carbon tube + traxxas ends, wich i recently switched to.

Yep thats the sintron rods. Its been discussed here before. Some people have made sintron mail them new rods. But I just opted to buy the traxxas rods and put them on.

Yeah - not good - that's why i switched to traxxas ends & carbon rods.

EDIT - I was blaming geometry on effector tilt - but maybe it is all down to the rod ends interfering.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2016 10:45AM by samlittlewood.

i calibrated it, but now when i print, the filament is curling up and gets sticked on the nozzle. can't lay down the first layer. printing PLA, at 210 degree (recommended temp by the supplier) and the bed is at 60 degrees. anybody else ran into this?

just got a used sinitron and a spare complete new frame and lot of bits, im going to build it up with a duet 0.6 and dc's ir sensor, ive got every thing i need so just got to finish the rebuild of my 3dr, and then do this one , ive read the whole 37 pages over three days, lots of good info here , i expect i will have to ask for help , ill be back!