Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

But again, the fact that you haven't experienced that before and started to experience that now and not in the beginning of the print suggests that something else has changed and is changing during print. Lower motor currents probably means it is NOT motor overheating… I don't remember, do you still have sintron original hotend?

Thanks hacker. My sticker fell off when I attached the metal corners. I cant find that sticker. LOL

I *think* the sintron has a sticker SL42STH40-1204A. I think that means 1.2A rated current?

That's correct.

NEMA 17 is the kind of stepper.

MK8 is the kind of toothed wheel.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2016 11:35AM by AnHardt.

Quote
AnHardt
I *think* the sintron has a sticker SL42STH40-1204A. I think that means 1.2A rated current?

That's correct.

NEMA 17 is the kind of stepper.

MK8 is the kind of toothed wheel.

Thanks for the clarification. I get confused about things.

So I checked the NEMA 17 x, y z motor. One of them still has a sticker on it. And that is correct. Its model # SL42STH40-1204A. So I assume that my extruder motor is the same thing as the end stop motors. A NEMA17 with the MK8 attached to it.

I have some time now. I will crank it up to 1000 mA and see how things work. I just dont know how it could have changed from printing fine to nothing. I never changed the mA of the E motor. But one day it wouldnt work

Also, Hacker, I changed my original Sintron E3D clone to a Hexagon Hotened. I assume the thermistor that came with the Hexagon was off or whatever. I was using PLA at 190deg and PET at 230 deg. Now I have PLA at 220 deg and PETG at 250 deg minimum. lt was working fine. Things looked great. But again, one day after a 5hr print (first time I attempted a 5hr print with PLA) it wouldnt print right anymore.

Update: I printed my first print with the current of the E motor at 1000mA. I also tested my luck and I decided to go back to using my old PLA defaults (ie faster settings). So far so good. I am 15min into the print. Everything looks good. I have never heard my E motor hum like that before. It sounds like an inkjet printer motor racing around.

So before at 500mA, I hit extrude and just by my hand touching the filament the E motor would skip. At 1000mA, I physically cannot grab the filament and hold it back to even make it skip when I hit extrude. So somehow my machine must have defaulted to 500mA when it should have been 1000mA? I guess we will find out in another 15min when the problem of underextrusion occured before. At the 15min mark, the E motor is warm to the touch. But no slipping at all.

The print has finished and it looks good. NO under extrusion issues.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2016 04:28PM by DRTak.

Quote
DRTak
Also, Hacker, I changed my original Sintron E3D clone to a Hexagon Hotened. I assume the thermistor that came with the Hexagon was off or whatever. I was using PLA at 190deg and PET at 230 deg. Now I have PLA at 220 deg and PETG at 250 deg minimum. lt was working fine. Things looked great. But again, one day after a 5hr print (first time I attempted a 5hr print with PLA) it wouldnt print right anymore.

Update: I printed my first print with the current of the E motor at 1000mA. I also tested my luck and I decided to go back to using my old PLA defaults (ie faster settings). So far so good. I am 15min into the print. Everything looks good. I have never heard my E motor humm like that before. It sounds like a laser beam shooting.

So before at 500mA, I hit extrude and just by my hand touching the filament the E motor would skip. At 1000mA, I physically cannot grab the filament and hold it back to even make it skip when I hit extrude. So somehow my machine must have defaulted to 500mA when it should have been 1000mA? I guess we will find out in another 15min when the problem of underextrusion occured before

I don't think it *should* have been anything. But yes, I've just checked — [github.com] — the default minikossel config has E500. Perhaps, that's because dc42 has geared extruder

But still, you had it operate at 500mA and now you can only extrude at higher current, something has changed in the hotend, probably, maybe you're just postponing having to deal with it. Maybe you're postponing it for so long that it doesn't matter and you'll change hotend by that time on a whim

And yes, I've tried to find the hexagon details, but failed, so I'm not sure what's inside, but what I would do is I'd disassemble it and thoroughly clean and examine how PTFE tube feels in there. I'm not sure if it's a good piece of advice, but that's what I would do.

And about thermistor, you did adjust the thermistor configuration in config.g, did you?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2016 03:49PM by hacker.

Hacker, thanks for the info and research. The Hexagon doesnt have PTFE liner in it. Thats why I bought it. Its really all metal. I bought a hobby drill set. It has a 0.4mm bit. I pushed it into the nozzle and the nozzle is clear.

And I think you are right. Eventually I would have had to deal with this issue. It was just a matter of time. The Hexagon needs more torque on the PLA filament I guess. It was fine for PETG but I was running PETG at a very very slow speed. It was skipping though but I thought that was normal for PETG. Now I might test PETG at a faster speed.

Yeah. I calibrated the new thermistor the best I could. It says its a standard EPCOS B57560G104F NTC Thermistor.

This is what my config.g file looks like for it:

M305 P1 T100000 B4066 R1000 H5 L-30

But now it might all have been that the extruder motor was under powered NOT that the hotend couldnt melt enough plastic. I was cranking up the temp of the hotend thinking that it wasnt hot enough.

Quote
DRTak
Hacker, thanks for the info and research. The Hexagon doesnt have PTFE liner in it. Thats why I bought it. Its really all metal. I bought a hobby drill set. It has a 0.4mm bit. I pushed it into the nozzle and the nozzle is clear.

And I think you are right. Eventually I would have had to deal with this issue. It was just a matter of time. The Hexagon needs more torque on the PLA filament I guess. It was fine for PETG but I was running PETG at a very very slow speed. It was skipping though but I thought that was normal for PETG. Now I might test PETG at a faster speed.

Yeah. I calibrated the new thermistor the best I could. It says its a standard EPCOS B57560G104F NTC Thermistor.

This is what my config.g file looks like for it:

M305 P1 T100000 B4066 R1000 H5 L-30

But now it might all have been that the extruder motor was under powered NOT that the hotend couldnt melt enough plastic. I was cranking up the temp of the hotend thinking that it wasnt hot enough.

I have no idea how would one deal with filament residue inside all metal thingie, but probably there is a way. And I'm not talking about the nozzle.

This page — [reprap.org] has your thermistor it seems with the note "Obsolete - not recommended for new designs" And beta value of 4036. Also, I have R4700, but I believe if it was wrong the problem would be more serious and I think you have different duet (I have duet 0.8.5 from think3dprint3d). Another reason for temp difference may be how far the thermistor is from nozzle in the heater block. And then you're right, different hotend, different printing conditions.

The problem with using too much power may be, though, that there will be quite some compression accumulated in the bowden tube which would require longer retraction, but then it also depends on how we've been extruding before we retract… But well, it's a bit outside my realm of competence and experience.

Regarding the extruder current, the sample config.g file I include for the Mini Kossel was optimised for the T3P3 kit, which has a gearing of approx. 5:1 and a high torque motor. For that extruder, I found that 500mA was the right balance between excessive torque and inadequate acceleration. Your extruder is obviously direct drive because the steps/mm is so low, and direct drive extruders with Nema 17 motors invariably need the motors to be run close to their rated current to provide sufficient torque.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

...what dc42 said. Also sintrons extruder gear is MK7 ( not MK8 ) with a bigger diameter and grooved idler bearing, which makes direct driving a Bowden setup a bit harder.

Quote
o_lampe
Also sintrons extruder gear is MK7 ( not MK8 )

Neither MK7 nor MK8, actually, from drive-gear perspective. They both should have grooved drive-gear, like this:


But on Sintron's gear the teeth are straight.

Thanks for the input. I have changed the thermistor values. I am trying to make it equivalent to ambient room temp of 19deg C. This is what I have so far.

; Thermistors
;*** If you have a Duet board stickered "4.7K", change R1000 to R4700 to the following M305 commands
M305 P0 T10000 B3950 R1000 H-10 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4036 R4700 H225 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction

With the above settings. The P0 is 19.6deg and P1 is 19.6deg.


Also, dc42 and hacker. Thanks the torque is great now.

GrAndAG and o_lampe : didnt know there was a difference in the gears. But mine does not look like the picture. Its concave and not scooped out. So I guess its not Mk7 or 8. Good old Sintron.

Either way. I am going to print something now. Thanks for all the help. Its like hacker said. One day I would have had to face this issue. Cant believe I got away with it this long.

Update: Printing PLA now at 185 deg. Its in range of what PLA prints at. I manually extruded and there was no resistance at the hotend side. So Im going ahead with a 1hr test print. If this works Im back in business. I wasnt printing for a week or two from lack of knowledge of what is happening. Thanks to this forum though. Im back

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2016 10:41AM by DRTak.

Quote
DRTak
Thanks for the input. I have changed the thermistor values. I am trying to make it equivalent to ambient room temp of 19deg C. This is what I have so far.

; Thermistors
;*** If you have a Duet board stickered "4.7K", change R1000 to R4700 to the following M305 commands
M305 P0 T10000 B3950 R1000 H-10 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4036 R4700 H225 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction

With the above settings. The P0 is 19.6deg and P1 is 19.6deg.

H225 is way outside the normal range. You either need R1000 for both thermistors, or R4700 for both. Replikeo Duet 0.6 boards and very old RepRapPro boards use R1000, all others use R4700. In theory, all channels should need the same H parameter too.

Also check what resistance your bed thermistor is. RepRapFirmware defaults to 10K, but in most printers bed thermistors are 100K like the hot end. Use the T parameter to specify the resistance of your thermistor at 25C.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42

Quote
DRTak
Thanks for the input. I have changed the thermistor values. I am trying to make it equivalent to ambient room temp of 19deg C. This is what I have so far.

; Thermistors
;*** If you have a Duet board stickered "4.7K", change R1000 to R4700 to the following M305 commands
M305 P0 T10000 B3950 R1000 H-10 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4036 R4700 H225 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction

With the above settings. The P0 is 19.6deg and P1 is 19.6deg.

H225 is way outside the normal range. You either need R1000 for both thermistors, or R4700 for both. Replikeo Duet 0.6 boards and very old RepRapPro boards use R1000, all others use R4700. In theory, all channels should need the same H parameter too.

Also check what resistance your bed thermistor is. RepRapFirmware defaults to 10K, but in most printers bed thermistors are 100K like the hot end. Use the T parameter to specify the resistance of your thermistor at 25C.

dc42. I have a duet 0.6 from think3d. I will change the R back to 1000. Also, my bed thermistor is a PC thermistor. I had a few laying around and Im using that. I have since bought 10 3d printer ones. BUT the old thermistor is embedded on the back of the heatbed with multiple layers of aluminum flashing, silicone tape etc. It would be a mess to remove the heatbed thermistor.
The thermistor looks like this below the heatbed. I have narrowed it down to a TTF 103 thermistor which is T of 10000.

Here is a pdf: [www.thinking.com.tw]

Quote
DRTak

Quote
dc42
Replikeo Duet 0.6 boards and very old RepRapPro boards use R1000, all others use R4700.

dc42. I have a duet 0.6 from think3d. I will change the R back to 1000.

If I read dc42 right, you're more likely to need R4700, because your duet is not Replikeo, neither RepRapPro, but that may be just how I read it.

Didn't sintron supply you with bed thermistor?

If your bed temperature is reading about right at room temperature and is a 10K thermistor, then you must have 1K resistors on your Duet. So change the R4700 in the M305 P1 command back to R1000. Keep using the 10K bed thermistor, there is no need to change it.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

im fast approaching the time to turn my sintron kossel on and im just wiring the 220mm mk3 alloy heat bed (i think it is the one that sintron supply) it is red and the warning dont touch text on the bottom with terminals on bottom in the center, no thermister hole in the center , and what looks like two leds and a resistor, what im wondering is has anyone bother to make the leds remote or have you just lost the signal from them as its underneath? is it worth me dremeling a divot for the thermister ? or just tape it on? the red surface?

thanks guys

Quote
forest
im fast approaching the time to turn my sintron kossel on and im just wiring the 220mm mk3 alloy heat bed (i think it is the one that sintron supply) it is red and the warning dont touch text on the bottom with terminals on bottom in the center, no thermister hole in the center , and what looks like two leds and a resistor, what im wondering is has anyone bother to make the leds remote or have you just lost the signal from them as its underneath? is it worth me dremeling a divot for the thermister ? or just tape it on? the red surface?

thanks guys

For me I left the heatbed alone. I just taped a thermistor to the bottom. I insulated it and left a little hole in the insulation so that LED light can shine through. But it is so weak I cannot see it anyway and its below the machine. I would not dremel a hole in the heatbed.

Quote
dc42
If your bed temperature is reading about right at room temperature and is a 10K thermistor, then you must have 1K resistors on your Duet. So change the R4700 in the M305 P1 command back to R1000. Keep using the 10K bed thermistor, there is no need to change it.

Thanks dc42. I changed P1 to R1000. And Im using my old settings.

I did get a jam though with PLA on a long print. I think I was trying to print it to fast and used a 2.5mm retraction length. Might have clogged the nozzle. I hope its not bad temp related.

Quote
DRTak
I would not dremel a hole in the heatbed.

I drilled a small hole in the centre not all the way trough and glued the thermistor in it with some thermal paste.

Quote
LVD

Quote
DRTak
I would not dremel a hole in the heatbed.

I drilled a small hole in the centre not all the way trough and glued the thermistor in it with some thermal paste.

I see that should give you a flush fit. However, for me my solder joints are large and stick up high underneath the heat bed.

Hello Folks,

Been away from this forum for a while, but my Sintron Kossel is still doing great.

Yesterday, I was at my local MicroCenter, and happened to see this new "tiny" delta from SeeMeeCNC. They have called it "Eris".

[www.seemecnc.com]

I always wanted to get a Rostock Max V2.. while it was not a funding problem, the problem I was having was to find a place to keep it. I already have 2 printers.

But this new entry was small, and pretty sweet. It has a a cool accelerometer based auto-level feature built-in to the hot-end structure.

I picked one up, and so far it has been quite impressive.

Just thought ya all might be interested, so I shared it.

Thank you.

I just got the sintron heat bed for my kossel (different model). I haven't read the whole thread (it's long!) but wonder if there are any tips about attaching the thermistor to the heat bed?

Would it make sense to drill a small hole into the center of the PCB side for the thermistor?

Also, what are those components on the PCB? Two diodes and a resistor? Or is that a SMD thermistor? Because the description mentions "pads for SMD thermistor" but I'm not sure what that means. Thanks!

Quote
Dejay
... wonder if there are any tips about attaching the thermistor to the heat bed?

I just attached it in the center of back side using couple pieces of kapton tape.

Quote
Dejay
Also, what are those components on the PCB? Two diodes and a resistor?

They are just dumb LED power indicators. One of "diodes" (depending on connection polarity) is light up when heat bed is power on.

Thanks Grandag! I just wondered if there is a SMD thermistor hidden in there. Would be cool but probably unpractical if you ever need to replace it.

Quote
gkr
Hello Folks,

Been away from this forum for a while, but my Sintron Kossel is still doing great.

Yesterday, I was at my local MicroCenter, and happened to see this new "tiny" delta from SeeMeeCNC. They have called it "Eris".

[www.seemecnc.com]

I always wanted to get a Rostock Max V2.. while it was not a funding problem, the problem I was having was to find a place to keep it. I already have 2 printers.

But this new entry was small, and pretty sweet. It has a a cool accelerometer based auto-level feature built-in to the hot-end structure.

I picked one up, and so far it has been quite impressive.

Just thought ya all might be interested, so I shared it.

Thank you.

The build plate looks small. How is it working out. The youtube video looks impressive.

Update on my Sintron Kossel with Hexagon Hot end and Duet 0.6.

I decided to upgrade the firmware to 1.15 on the Duet and it was a mess. I have reverted back to 1.14 for the duet 0.6. However, I did not backup my /SYS files. So I had to figure out what went wrong the last time I printed. It was near the end of a 5hr print the print would be very weak and bubbly. I finally figured it out after re reading these posts. It was that my E motor had too weak of a current. So I changed it from 500mAh to 1200. I also tightened the extruder gears so that I cannot forcecully pull the filament out of the gear when it is feeding. This proves that the motor and gears have enough torque and friction.

I have placed my config file here in case I run into this problem again or if anyone else has this problem with the Nema17 extruder provided by Sintron.

; Configuration file for Mini Kossel kit from Think3DPrint3D

; Communication and general
M111 S0 ; Debug off
M550 PKosselMindy ; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like)
M551 Preprap ; Machine password (used for FTP)
M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address
;*** Adjust the IP address and gateway in the following 2 lines to suit your network
M552 P192.168.2.14 ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway 71.8.194.37
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask
M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
M575 P1 B57600 S1 ;Comms parameters for Paneldue
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

; Axis and motor configuration
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 goes forwards
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S0 ; set endstop configuration (all endstops at high end, active high)
;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration
M665 R108.99 L215.00 H237.63 B110.00 X-0.78 Y0.65 Z0.00 ;122.16 set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0.21 Y0.27 Z-0.47 ; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 ; Set axis steps/mm
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1200 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA) and increase idle current to 60%
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute
M579 X1.001 Y1.03

; Thermistors
;*** If you have a Duet board stickered "4.7K", change R1000 to R4700 to the following M305 commands
M305 P0 T10000 B3950 R1000 H-10 L0 ; BED Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4036 R1000 H-10 L0 ; HOT END Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
;M305 P2 T100000 B3950 R1000 H10 L-30 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M570 S200 ; Hot end may be a little slow to heat up so allow it 180 seconds

; Tool definitions
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
;M563 P1 H2 D1
G10 P0 S0 R0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
;*** If you have a dual-nozzle build, un-comment the next 2 lines
;M563 P1 D1 H2 ; Define tool 1
;G10 P1 S0 R0 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures
M92 E100:100 ; Set extruder steps per mm

;Maximum Temperature control I added
M143 S276

;Heater Parameters I added
;M307 H0

; Z probe and compensation definition
;*** If you have an IR zprobe instead of a switch, change P4 to P1 in the following M558 command
M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Z probe is a switch and is not used for homing any axes
G31 X0 Y0 Z0.81 P500 ; Set the zprobe height and threshold (put your own values here)

;*** If you are using axis compensation, put the figures in the following command
M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Axis compensation here

M208 S1 Z-1.5 ; set minimum Z
;
T0 ; select first hot end

Quote
DRTak
M552 P192.168.2.14 ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway 71.8.194.37
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask

Looks like your gateway is not on the same network as your ip, does it work? Or does it even care about the gateway given the abundance of network interfaces?

Quote
hacker

Quote
DRTak
M552 P192.168.2.14 ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway 71.8.194.37
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask

Looks like your gateway is not on the same network as your ip, does it work? Or does it even care about the gateway given the abundance of network interfaces?

It works.

My house would be an IT nightmare. I have a one cable line coming into the house. It is connected to a cable modem. I have one ethernet line connecting the modem to an Asus wifi router. The back of the router ran out of ethernet Out lines. So I connected that to an ethernet switch (which I had laying around from an older project. ie its free. I could have just bought an 8 or 10 port switch) which gave me 4 more ethernet lines. I then ran out of those lines. So I had an older Asus Wifi router laying around. So I use that as a "switch" to get more ethernet out lines. One of which goes to my Kossel. Well after many trials I realized that I could not connect to the main intranet without making my Kossel a static IP with a different IP that the main network. So 192.168.2.1 (old router) instead of 192.168.1.1 (main asus new router). The gateway is the main gateway for the cable company modem.

So I could have thrown away the old asus wifi modem and bought another switch. However, turns out that my kids Iphone 3 G can only be on this old wifi network due to older wifi system protocol installed in the iPhone 3g which is a n/g I think. My new modem can run on the wifi "a" protocol and has no backward compatability with the n/g protocol. Also, my kids Kindles can only handle the older wifi protocol n/g. So Im stuck with having to use this old wifi modem along side my newer modem.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/13/2016 03:08PM by DRTak.

Quote
DRTak

Quote
hacker

Quote
DRTak
M552 P192.168.2.14 ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway 71.8.194.37
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask

Looks like your gateway is not on the same network as your ip, does it work? Or does it even care about the gateway given the abundance of network interfaces?

It works.

My house would be an IT nightmare. I have a one cable line coming into the house. It is connected to a cable modem. I have one ethernet line connecting the modem to an Asus wifi router. The back of the router ran out of ethernet Out lines. So I connected that to an ethernet switch (which I had laying around from an older project. ie its free. I could have just bought an 8 or 10 port switch) which gave me 4 more ethernet lines. I then ran out of those lines. So I had an older Asus Wifi router laying around. So I use that as a "switch" to get more ethernet out lines. One of which goes to my Kossel. Well after many trials I realized that I could not connect to the main intranet without making my Kossel a static IP with a different IP that the main network. So 192.168.2.1 (old router) instead of 192.168.1.1 (main asus new router). The gateway is the main gateway for the cable company modem.

So I could have thrown away the old asus wifi modem and bought another switch. However, turns out that my kids Iphone 3 G can only be on this old wifi network due to older wifi system protocol installed in the iPhone 3g which is a n/g I think. My new modem can run on the wifi "a" protocol and has no backward compatability with the n/g protocol. Also, my kids Kindles can only handle the older wifi protocol n/g. So Im stuck with having to use this old wifi modem along side my newer modem.

Nah, that doesn't scare me at all, I have pretty convoluted network setup with different subnets too. It's just that I prefer to have gateway on the same subnet. If you tried to do that on the ordinary box it would probably refuse to even add the default route. It wouldn't know on which interface to look for the gateway. On the other hand duet neither needs default route (as long as you access it from the same subnet) nor needs to pick the interface, because it kinda doesn't have too many to choose from. So probably it either lives without the default route if you access it from .2. network or just doesn't care much sending stuff to the only interface it has if you access it from both network. As long as it's not complaining, who cares. I don't expect way too sophisticated network stack in its firmware. The bad thing about the duet firmware is that works so well I like never even peeked inside.

BTW, meanwhile I have upgraded my kossel to duetwifi a couple of days ago and it makes like no sound whatsoever. Before that I have changed the e3d's 30mm fan to noctua 40mm silent one, so it neither makes sound when powered up, nor while printing And my old duet now powers prusa.

The only thing I'm missing on the new duet is telnet (ftp too, but that sounds like much more hassle to implement, so it's understandable).

Quote
hacker

Quote
DRTak

Quote
hacker

Quote
DRTak
M552 P192.168.2.14 ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway 71.8.194.37
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask

Looks like your gateway is not on the same network as your ip, does it work? Or does it even care about the gateway given the abundance of network interfaces?

It works.

My house would be an IT nightmare. I have a one cable line coming into the house. It is connected to a cable modem. I have one ethernet line connecting the modem to an Asus wifi router. The back of the router ran out of ethernet Out lines. So I connected that to an ethernet switch (which I had laying around from an older project. ie its free. I could have just bought an 8 or 10 port switch) which gave me 4 more ethernet lines. I then ran out of those lines. So I had an older Asus Wifi router laying around. So I use that as a "switch" to get more ethernet out lines. One of which goes to my Kossel. Well after many trials I realized that I could not connect to the main intranet without making my Kossel a static IP with a different IP that the main network. So 192.168.2.1 (old router) instead of 192.168.1.1 (main asus new router). The gateway is the main gateway for the cable company modem.

So I could have thrown away the old asus wifi modem and bought another switch. However, turns out that my kids Iphone 3 G can only be on this old wifi network due to older wifi system protocol installed in the iPhone 3g which is a n/g I think. My new modem can run on the wifi "a" protocol and has no backward compatability with the n/g protocol. Also, my kids Kindles can only handle the older wifi protocol n/g. So Im stuck with having to use this old wifi modem along side my newer modem.

Nah, that doesn't scare me at all, I have pretty convoluted network setup with different subnets too. It's just that I prefer to have gateway on the same subnet. If you tried to do that on the ordinary box it would probably refuse to even add the default route. It wouldn't know on which interface to look for the gateway. On the other hand duet neither needs default route (as long as you access it from the same subnet) nor needs to pick the interface, because it kinda doesn't have too many to choose from. So probably it either lives without the default route if you access it from .2. network or just doesn't care much sending stuff to the only interface it has if you access it from both network. As long as it's not complaining, who cares. I don't expect way too sophisticated network stack in its firmware. The bad thing about the duet firmware is that works so well I like never even peeked inside.

BTW, meanwhile I have upgraded my kossel to duetwifi a couple of days ago and it makes like no sound whatsoever. Before that I have changed the e3d's 30mm fan to noctua 40mm silent one, so it neither makes sound when powered up, nor while printing And my old duet now powers prusa.

The only thing I'm missing on the new duet is telnet (ftp too, but that sounds like much more hassle to implement, so it's understandable).

Two things. Is there a more simple way to get my network to work then?

2nd. How is the duetwifi? I have the duet 0.6 with expansion card. But have removed the expansion card. Living with just the duet 0.6. My setup is noisy with all the fans. I have a fan on the duet. 2 fans on the hotend, one fan on the E motor, and a fan to cool the powersupply. So even if the duet wifi was quiet all of my fans would make it really noisy.

Why did you upgrade besides noise pollution removal?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/13/2016 09:05PM by DRTak.